DFR Delta IV Heavy build.

[jeffyjeep]

I squealed like a little girl when I got my DFR Delta IV Heavy (I'll refer to it as the "D4H") kit today!

As with the other DFR kits, it has the 3D printed parts, plexiglass fins, and pre-colored BT's.

Should be fun! TBC

[jeffyjeep]

Inventory is complete and everything's here and undamaged. The 3D printed NC's and the aft tail sections will need a LOT of sanding (this is where "The Vixen" gets involved.)

Time for a Scotch and an IPA. Good night. TBC

[Chas Russell]

Will be following your build. Have been wanting one of these kits, but I have such a stache of unbuilt kits that what I want and what I need...

What IPA do you like? I prefer the local Rahr Stormcloud IPA.

Chas

[rocketguy101]

The 3D printed NC's and the aft tail sections will need a LOT of sanding (this is where "The Vixen" gets involved.)


I used "Mr. Surfacer 500" (http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Surfacer-NET-40ml-Bottle-Hobby/dp/B001950O3S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419958256&sr=8-1&keywords=mr+surfacer+500) to fill some 3D printed parts. It is lacquer based, but very thick and fills nicely. Here are some before and after pics...I used some Bondo spot putty on top of the Mr. Surfacer to fill the big stuff.

Also some people have talked about "vapor finishing" 3D printed parts (google provides many links and vids)...I have not tried that yet, but plan to on some parts I am having printed.

[jeffyjeep]

I used "Mr. Surfacer 500" (http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Surfacer-NET-40ml-Bottle-Hobby/dp/B001950O3S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419958256&sr=8-1&keywords=mr+surfacer+500) to fill some 3D printed parts. It is lacquer based, but very thick and fills nicely. Here are some before and after pics...I used some Bondo spot putty on top of the Mr. Surfacer to fill the big stuff.

Also some people have talked about "vapor finishing" 3D printed parts (google provides many links and vids)...I have not tried that yet, but plan to on some parts I am having printed.
That DID fill it nicely. Thanks for the info.

[jeffyjeep]

Will be following your build. Have been wanting one of these kits, but I have such a stache of unbuilt kits that what I want and what I need...

What IPA do you like? I prefer the local Rahr Stormcloud IPA.

Chas
My favorite local IPA is Outlaw IPA made by Two Brothers Brewing Co. right here in Aurora, IL (at the Roundhouse.)

For national brands, I often buy Ranger IPA but there's many, many others I like also. There's also some that I won't drink even if it's free--like the cloudy, chunky, nasty, Upheavel IPA brewed by Widmer Bros.

[Kimble29]

My favorite local IPA is Outlaw IPA made by Two Brothers Brewing Co. right here in Aurora, IL (at the Roundhouse.)

For national brands, I often buy Ranger IPA but there's many, many others I like also. There's also some that I won't drink even if it's free--like the cloudy, chunky, nasty, Upheavel IPA brewed by Widmer Bros.


JJ, not to alter the subject but Outlaw is also my favorite IPA! And I just bought a 6 of New Belgium Ranger, another favorite of mine. If you haven't tried Horny Goat- Hopped Up and Horny, give it a shot. Made up in WI. I'm sure you can get it there in Aurora. I'm downstate in Peoria and can get it here.

Okay, back to your build thread!

[jeffyjeep]

I'll try it. I'm sure I can get it up here at Binny's.

Back to the D4H for a little while tonight. The instructions (in fact a lot of rocket instructions) say to wrap a piece of masking tape around the engine hook. Naa. I've built a few Quest Aerospace X-30 Space Planes over the years and each kit comes with a heavy walled tube that's used for curling the aeroshroud. The REAL beauty of this wonderful tube is that it's the PERFECT I.D. to use as an engine hook retainer for a BT50 based mount. I simply cut off a 1" long piece with a razor saw, test fit the aft cone to the 1/4" mark so as not to place the retainer too far down, and then epoxy the retainer over the hook. This is FAR more permanent than masking tape (IMO) and weighs only a teensy bit more. TBC

[jeffyjeep]

Now for some technique.
After marking the (3) core tubes for the CR5060's, I make a gluing "fence" with a length of blue painter's tape on each tube and register the ring against it on each tube. I then stand each tube upright on an Estes 24mm stand and epoxy the top fillet of the ring on each tube. I then remove the tape, invert the tubes on the stands, and epoxy the bottom fillets. I also mount and epoxy the screw eye into the top ring of the core tube that has the engine mount.

Time for a Scotch, an IPA, and some yummy smoked venison. Good night. TBC

[jeffyjeep]

Now for the 3D printed NC's.

Sice they're without surface features, I sand the heck out of them to make them smooth rather than fill them. I started with 220 and hogged down the pointyness(?) of the cone and flattened the ridges of the entire surface. Then progressed to 320 and then 440 grits.

In the first photo the left cone is raw, the right cone is sanded. In the second photo is an alien from the 1970's.

TBC

[jeffyjeep]

After sanding all (3) cones I then measure each one and sand them shorter if necessary until they're all within .010" of each other from shoulder step to tip. TBC

[Kimble29]

"Nebs Nebs" LMAO! Classic SNL!

Great thread dude!

[Bill]

The 3D printed NC's and the aft tail sections will need a LOT of sanding


For the price of that kit, I would hope that kind of prep work would not be needed. Couldn't they hire several amnestees to do the sanding?

Stiil, if I ever get my parallel staging technique perfected, the Delta IV Heavy would warrant a look.


Bill

[PaulK]

These 3D parts are a bunch of work to finish (building a DFR New Horizons). He must be switching to all printed parts now, my New Horizons came with balsa NC & transition. I wonder if certain 3D technologies can reduce these ridges?

[Brent]

Just started one of these myself. I replaced the central hook with a longer E engine hook and used the supplied hook along with another one for the outboard boosters . There were actually extra centering wrings in my kit so I put them to use. :chuckle:

[jetlag]

I am doing what Brent is. All 6 of the supplied washers will fit in the core nose cone. Maybe putting all 6 so far forward instead of 3 in the NC and 3 in the payload section will offset the extra weight of an E12. It will need lots more weight if one loads up the outboards with C6-0's or D12-0's. Nice to have a working cg reference!
Allen

[jeffyjeep]

The PNC's and the rear cones are all painted with gray primer, white primer, and (2) coats of gloss white enamel.

Time for a Scotch and an IPA. Good night. TBC

[jeffyjeep]

I'm back to the D4H.

With the nose and tail cones painted and degassed, I'll begin assembly.

First I epoxy one of the tail cones onto the stuffer tube that has the engine mount. After that epoxy has set, I use the first assembly to gage the other two so they all end up exact.

TBC

[jeffyjeep]

Now for some technique:

To get the separation line wraps nice and straight on the payload section and the PNC, I first use a tube marking guide to transfer the bottom location to the open end of the payload BT. I then use a fin marking guide to transfer the mark to the opposite side. I then use the pencil marks on the BT to transfer pencil marks to the PNC.

I use (2) strips of the separation line decal on the BT of the payload and one long one on the PNC.

TBC

[jeffyjeep]

Now the raceways.

Using the Corian board covered with 220 I scrape the bullnose profile into the ends of the raceways. I then do the final shaping by hand with a piece of 400 grit.

Using my least favorite adhesive (CA gel) I attach the raceways to the (3) BT's and now the very unattractive wrap seams are gone! TBC

[jeffyjeep]

Now I've epoxied the stuffer tube/rear cone assemblies into the (3) body tubes and I've cut out the fin slots in the left and right BT's.

This is all I can do until "The Vixen" is finished painting the small plastic parts that join the BT's together.

Time for a Scotch and an IPA. Good night. TBC

[Bill]

Every time I see the Delta IV Heavy, I keep thinking someone was trying to design a scale triple-egglofter.

Any plans to sell an Orion EFT-1 version of that kit?


Bill

[jeffyjeep]

"The Vixen" painted the small plastic parts last night with white enamel and now I can continue.

Before mounting the small parts, I epoxied the PNC's into the side boosters. to "dress up" the PNC's and the tail cones, I've detailed the plastic-to-tube joints with 1/8" wide Great Planes white pinstripe tape. This cleans up the line and also covers the unused rectangular holes on the sides of the tail cones--opposite the mounting side.

Now the LOX tube assemblies. The cream cheese tube assemblies will be attached later. ;) As much as I hate using it, CA gel seems to be the best adhesive for the LOX tube assemblies.

TBC

[jeffyjeep]

Now to mount the couplers to the central booster tube. After doing some adhesive tests, I determined that Testor's regular plastic cement is the best for this. After scrraping the mounting surface of the BT I first glue the rear coupler onto the BT and the tail cone. I temporarily shoved (3) tight-fitting tube couplers down the open end of the central BT so I can bear down on the front couplers as the adhesive does it's welding.


After the couplers have welded themselves on I mount one of the side boosters to the couplers. As the adhesive welds itself I hold the alignment constantly.

TBC

[jeffyjeep]

After the joints cured for a couple of hours, I flexed the (2) tubes a little to get a feeling for the strength of the joints and I heard a lttle bit of "crackling" in the rear joint, but it didn't break. I then capillaried (3) drops of Tenax 7 into the rear coupler and (2) drops into the front coupler.

I'll let the Tenax work in during dinner and check the strength again. TBC

[jeffyjeep]

After using the Tenax the joint feels pretty solid now, but I'm taking it one step further, with my best friend--epoxy. This thing has to stay togther during flight and recovery!

Using a bamboo meat skewer I drop 30 minute epoxy into the joints. I'm using 30 minute for this because its almost colorless and the long cure time will let it seep down nicely. TBC

[jeffyjeep]

After gluing the other booster onto the central booster and clamping it in my Herculean grip until it was stable, I laid the assembly down on it's featureless side (I'm SO glad I haven't attached the launch lugs yet!) onto my dead-flat Corian board so the model will align itself using it's own weight. TBC

p.s. In case you were wondering: yes, I CAN palm a basketball.

[ghrocketman]

Why did you use CA Gel to attach the raceways ?
That stuff has to be the worst adhesive ever made. I think I would use anything including Liquid Hide glue over that crapola.
Why not use 5 minute epoxy and tape in place waiting to cure ?
Not to be TOO negative, CA Gel has no place in my adhesives cabinet.

[jeffyjeep]

You're right, actually, and I probably won't use it again.

One more thing to NOT like about it: it takes the color off of the pre-printed BT's.

[jeffyjeep]

Using the adhesive "cocktail" the (3) boosters are joined solidly. The kit came with 1/8" launch lugs, but with the weight already at 10.0 ounces--and it's not even finished yet--I'll use 3/16" lugs.

Time for (more) Scotch and (another) IPA. Good night. TBC

[jeffyjeep]

The 3/16" LL's are now epoxied on.

The little stinking 3D printed struts aren't white enough after painting (it's not "The Vixen's" fault--I gave her the paint to use.) Since they're sort of a focal point on the build (as opposed to the off-white booster couplers) I'll repaint them myself.

I first make a painting stand by doubling over a length of Dr. Shrink plastic tape on a length of scrap BT60. I then stick the unpainted "feet" of the struts to the tape. I have no bottled enamel that's white enough, so I've sprayed Rustoleum white enamel in a specimen cup and brushed it on. 2 or 3 coats should do it.

TBC

[PaulK]

Looking good Jeffy. How did you find the diameter of the NCs match to the BTs? On my Atlas V booster cones, I found that the *top* of the 3D ridges were about the diameter of the tubes, so I needed to add filler before sanding, or the diameter would have been too small.

Are the outer tubes open at the bottom? Think you'll ever fly it with outboard motors?

[jeffyjeep]

Looking good Jeffy. How did you find the diameter of the NCs match to the BTs? On my Atlas V booster cones, I found that the *top* of the 3D ridges were about the diameter of the tubes, so I needed to add filler before sanding, or the diameter would have been too small.

Are the outer tubes open at the bottom? Think you'll ever fly it with outboard motors?
Thanks.

The fit of these PNC's to the BT's is very good. All I had to do for a nice fit of the PNC to the payload tube was to add one thickness of blue painter's tape around the shoulder of the PNC and then cut away approx. 40% of it. The other (2) PNC's are permanently epoxied into the BT's.

[jeffyjeep]

Now for some technique on the fins:

This is the 4th DFR kit I've built, and they all have one thing in common in relation to the plexiglass fins: any blemish that you make on the fin after the protective film is removed is magnified approximately 300 times. (the first law of Snell's half-brother, Ralph)
Therefore, I keep the protective film on as long as possible.

I'll be mounting the fins with 5 minute epoxy instead of CA gel. First, to give the root edge some "tooth" I borrowed "The Vixen's" diamond nail file and cut serrations along the entire length of the root edge--approx. .030" apart. I then lightly sand the root edge on the Corian board that's covered with 220 grit. Note that the film is still on.

This DFR kit has an improvement that the other's didn't: the tail cones have slots in the plastic at the bottom and they register perfectly to the slots in the BT's! Carl, you're spoiling me! :rolleyes:

I then mix the epoxy, remove the film, test fit the fin into the slot, use some bad words, enlarge the slot, drop the fin on the floor, pick it up, clean it off because lint has stuck to it statically, use some very bad words, apply the adhesive onto the root edge, insert and register the fin against the stuffer tube and the top of the slot, set the angle visually, and hold it in my Herculean grip until the epoxy sets. (in that order.)

TBC

[jeffyjeep]

....and, voila!

All (4) fins are now on. The outer edge span of the fins is exactly 7.0" on the long side and 3.5" on the short.

TBC

[jeffyjeep]

AND...................................................VOILA!

The DFR Delta IV Heavy is finished!

I epoxied on the upper struts and made the finishing touches to the model while "The Vixen" and I watched the Panthers get slaughtered.

Thanks for watching.

The end.

[luke strawwalker]

Sweet looking... VERY nice build. Compliments to you and the Vixen...

I like the looks of his kits and would love to get some-- unfortunately the price is more than I'm willing to pay. I'm not saying they're not worth it, just more than I'm willing to spend on a rocket kit (unless I won the lottery or something!)

Later! OL JR :)

[ghrocketman]

I'm with JR on this.
Nice kits, but more than I'm willing to spend on rockets of this size.
Roachwerks (Gordon) is about the only manufacturer of LPR/MPR kits that I would be willing to spend that kind of $$$ on.
The craftsmanship/attention to detail make his kits worth it.

[jeffyjeep]

I'm with both of you on this. I have one DFR kit left in the stash (New Horizons) and until the 3D printed parts get a LOT smoother, I probably won't buy any more.

[foamy]

For all of that, I have no comment. It is, however, an impressive rocket when built. This is evidently not a kit for the average builder and Jeffy, you pulled it together in spectacular style--looks great. Well done.

[jeffyjeep]

Thank you--it was fun!

Smoothing out the rough teensy little parts was the worst part. What are they ABS?

[jetlag]

Jeff,
Lovely build, as always! Thanks. It gave me the push to build the one I got for Christmas.
The way I handle the plastic ridges characteristic of 3D-printed pieces is to use my Dremel Contour Sander. First I spray a light coat of color, so as I sand with the sander, I can see if I've gotten all of the ridges. The piece turns white again as the color sands away. I use 120grit on the sander then hand finish with 220 and 320, then 2 or 3 coats of primer and more wet-sanding with 400, then color.
Power sanding really speeds up the process, and with my Dremel Contour unit, I have tons of control.
To sand out the 'depressions' on the lower plastic pieces, I started with a drum sanding attachment on my Dremel rotary tool. Made a huge difference in time for these areas that I was just going to leave alone due to the difficulty in getting to the areas. Just have to let the tool do the lion's share of the work.
Allen

[jeffyjeep]

Thanks! Dang! I wish I'd thought of usng the Dremel! I'll use it on the next one: New Horizons. It has a fanny-load of rough, 3D printed parts.

[jetlag]

Sanding: an incredibly drudgeristic (?) activity only a TBZep could love! :D
I bet Tim uses a power sander!

[PaulK]

Now for some technique:

To get the separation line wraps nice and straight on the payload section and the PNC, I first use a tube marking guide to transfer the bottom location to the open end of the payload BT. I then use a fin marking guide to transfer the mark to the opposite side. I then use the pencil marks on the BT to transfer pencil marks to the PNC.

I use (2) strips of the separation line decal on the BT of the payload and one long one on the PNC.

TBCJeff, were your separation wraps long enough to do the entire nose cone? On my Atlas V, a single wrap only reaches from the base, to the top, then around maybe half the other side. So I'm going to have a seam somewhere on the NC. And I can't imagine that'll work on the tip.

Second question, my payload has separation lines already on it. The separation lines are dashed along one edge, and solid on the other. The lines are different on the other side, such that if I were to wrap up the NC, and back down the other side, a dashed edge would line up with the solid edge on the other side. Perhaps I'm supposed to apply these separation lines to the payload tube also?

I'll check with Carl, to see what his intent was, just thought you might have some insight.

[jeffyjeep]

Paul,

The separation wraps that came with my kit are 10" long and I needed only one of them on the nose cone. The payload was not preprinted with the separation wraps, so I used some short pieces that I had left over from another DFR kit.

Therefore, I have these (2) extra 10" long separation wraps and you're welcome to them. PM your mailing address to me if you want them.

Jeff

[PaulK]

Thanks for the offer Jeff, I contacted Carl, and he's going to send me some longer strips. He also noted that the first batch of the Centaur wraps did indeed have an error. This is easily fixed with an extra strip.