Mach-1 Kits help?

[Arley Davis]

A company called Mach-1 Industries Inc. made some cool looking kits, put before I could purchase one of the two piece kits they went out of business. I have been waiting for years hoping to see one for sale on ebay or even the plans coming to this web site. My question dose any of you have the plans for some of there kits? All were nice and would take copies of any of them, The one I liked the most was the #RL3 Eagle Lift-Kit with the #RB2 Raider Body-Kit

[Ltvscout]

A company called Mach-1 Industries Inc. made some cool looking kits, put before I could purchase one of the two piece kits they went out of business. I have been waiting for years hoping to see one for sale on ebay or even the plans coming to this web site. My question dose any of you have the plans for some of there kits? All were nice and would take copies of any of them, The one I liked the most was the #RL3 Eagle Lift-Kit with the #RB2 Raider Body-Kit
I remember this company from back in the 90's. They were known for their Balsa-Ply that they sold. They were out of MN. I've never seen any of their kits except for on their website.

[barone]

Haven't I sent those plans in? :rolleyes:

[Ltvscout]

Haven't I sent those plans in? :rolleyes:
You have some? Send away!

[barone]

You have some? Send away!There isn't much to the plans but I'll send what I've got. What I really liked about the boost kts were that they were baffled so you didn't need wadding.

[Ltvscout]

There isn't much to the plans but I'll send what I've got. What I really liked about the boost kts were that they were baffled so you didn't need wadding.
Do you have any parts/pieces left that you could include dimensions?

[barone]

Do you have any parts/pieces left that you could include dimensions?
Well, I've got it built but I can get the dimensions (I think). At least I can put the fin dimensions in AutoCad and provide. I think I have the plans scanned already (like I said, not much to them). I'll get the dimentions and send them all to you. I'll e-mail you when I get them to the FTP. (Just checked....scans are the wrong size so I'll have to re-scan).

Arley...I don't have the specific ones you were asking about. I've got the Skyblazer Body Kit and the Terminator Lift Kit. I've got the launch instructions for the Sting Body Kit but I don't remember having the kit so I'm going to have to go through the stash this weekend and see what I can find.

[barone]

Okay Scott....they be at the FTP. Parts list has the dimensions that I could get. Here's pictures of the header cards if anyone wants to see what we're talking about....

[Skippy]

What an interesting concept! So many small companies with great ideas end up going to the wall. It's great that in this hobby, the great ideas get archived and we get another chance to sample them. (Especially we BARs who missed them the last time around).

[Ltvscout]

Okay Scott....they be at the FTP. Parts list has the dimensions that I could get. Here's pictures of the header cards if anyone wants to see what we're talking about....
Thanks. Might you have a picture of their logo? If so, could you scan a 300dpi of just the logo for me as well?

[Solomoriah]

What an interesting concept! So many small companies with great ideas end up going to the wall. It's great that in this hobby, the great ideas get archived and we get another chance to sample them. (Especially we BARs who missed them the last time around).
Indeed... so many companies I never even heard of. When I get done cloning my old Centuri favorites (just have the Bandito to go), I may start on some of these others. I like that forked model above.

... Skippy, eh? Who's evil twin are you? :D

[Arley Davis]

I have to say you guys are the greatest! I have some other kits that are hard or impossible to find that I would love to make up clone kits for, maybe you have them maybe not but it never hurts to ask.

Anyway Scott if you like I can send you a copy of there catalog with all the other material they sent me along with their Logo at 300 DPI that’s on there flyer, if you would like.

So Barone I have some questions, about the kit you have?

There are some fin patterns on the building parts flyer (see below) that I can enlarge so everyone can use this to clone the lift-kit they like. But before I can do this I will need the dimensions of the fins of the rocket you have. Also what thickness of Balsa-Ply was used?

Another thing what type of body tube was used was it the same as Estes or was it thicker, and what about the baffle used, do you have any information on its design or was it a plastic unit at the top of the Lift-kits. Maybe you could take some pictures of this so we all can see how it was built, that’s if it’s not too much trouble.

I know it was a 1.6” body tube (BT-60) so how long is the Lift kit body tube, and we all know it had a 24MM motor mount.

Do the plans show were the Launch Lug goes.

As for the Body-kits I can wait and see if they are posted later on or enlarge the price list (see below) and do an approximation of all but the #RB4. On the central tube of the #RB2 Rader I know it is 1.6”.

But at least this is a start!


,

[Ltvscout]

Anyway Scott if you like I can send you a copy of there catalog with all the other material they sent me along with their Logo at 300 DPI that’s on there flyer, if you would like.
Arley,

Yes, please do. Thank you!

[Arley Davis]

Just finished rescanning what I had and sent it a couple of minutes ago!

[barone]

Okay Arley....let's see how many of your questions I can answer.....

There are some fin patterns on the building parts flyer (see below) that I can enlarge so everyone can use this to clone the lift-kit they like. But before I can do this I will need the dimensions of the fins of the rocket you have. Also what thickness of Balsa-Ply was used?Below is the pattern I tried to get based on the kit I have. The through the wall tab may be off but the other dimensions are acurate.

Another thing what type of body tube was used was it the same as Estes or was it thicker, and what about the baffle used, do you have any information on its design or was it a plastic unit at the top of the Lift-kits. Maybe you could take some pictures of this so we all can see how it was built, that’s if it’s not too much trouble.The body tube was a standard BT-60, 6 inches long. The motor tube was a standard BT-50, also 6 inches long. At the forward end of the motor tube, approximately 1 inch aft, are four holes 90 degrees apart. The baffle was simply a length of BT-50 coupler (well, thicker than normal) with a plug in the aft end. This was inserted into the motor tube until it was flush with the forward end of the holes. A recovery tang was then inserted into the coupler to act as the attachment point for the recovery system.

I know it was a 1.6” body tube (BT-60) so how long is the Lift kit body tube, and we all know it had a 24MM motor mount. As stated, both tubes were 6 inches.

Do the plans show were the Launch Lug goes.No. it just says to attach it.

As for the Body-kits I can wait and see if they are posted later on or enlarge the price list (see below) and do an approximation of all but the #RB4. On the central tube of the #RB2 Rader I know it is 1.6”.

But at least this is a start!For the body kit I have, the BT60 was 18" long and the inside tube BT50 was also 18" long.

[Doug Sams]

Indeed... so many companies I never even heard of. Let me throw in my 2 cents worth on Mach-1. I never knew about the kits. Apparently they had already come and gone before I BAR'd in 1999. But I knew about the company. They made a product called Balsa-Ply. BMS used to offer rings made with it, and that's where I discovered them. So I bought a few sheets of it, and still use a piece now and again.

When I called to place the order, I got the impression that they were more of a farm-like family that did entrepreneurial/industrial work on the side. As I recall, Grandma answered the phone, and then had to run down to the barn to find (let's call him) Clem to see if he had any more in stock. Talking to her I learned that there were three generations living there, and that they had invented and patented the manufacturing process for their balsa plywood.

Grandma told me that they really didn't want to be in the business, that they wanted to sell the machine to someone who could run with it and market the product. Given that I don't see any Balsa-Ply on the shelf next to the Midwest and Sig stuff, I gather they weren't very successful. I suspect the rocket kits were an adjunct to the plywood business in an attempt to proliferate the material.

The call didn't instill much confidence in me. I had my fingers crossed that the order would make it, but it did.

Anyway, if you want to play around with it, try making some. I do that for rings and occasionally for fins. I've learned that making up full sized (eg, 36" long) sheets is a PITA, but that you can make smaller pieces fairly easily. I get 1/32" thick balsa for the outer two layers and 1/16" for the inner with each layer's grain rotated 90 degrees from the previous.

I liberally apply yellow glue, clamp it to a flat surface and wipe up the excess. I use layers of tin foil so that the plywood doesn't get glued to my radial arm saw deck. It makes awesome fins and rings.

The actual stuff is a bit different. It's more of two outer layers with a composite fill layer in between. It's still strong, but I think my homemade stuff is even better.

Doug

[barone]

This was listed on an old post somewhere from 2002....

Mach 1 Industries Inc.
20 W. Lake St.
Chisholm, MN 55719
(888) 225-4007
http://www.cpinternet.com/~mach1/

Specializing in Balsa-Ply specialty balsa plywood, airframe tubing, nose cones, modeling supplies and rocket kits. Free Catalog.

The link doesn't work anymore and I haven't tried the number.

[Arley Davis]

Dear Barone
I tried to open the files you posted, put could not?

You said?
(At the forward end of the motor tube, approximately 1 inch aft, are four holes 90 degrees apart. The baffle was simply a length of BT-50 coupler (well, thicker than normal) with a plug in the aft end. This was inserted into the motor tube until it was flush with the forward end of the holes.)
I do not understand, put maybe if I see the plans, also what is a Tang

Also what was the thickens of the Balsa-Ply fins?

Everyone Knows the Launch Lug needs to be at the center of gravity or was there two launch lugs on the Lift-Kit and one on the Body-Kit.

[barone]

Dear Barone
I tried to open the files you posted, put could not? Arley,

If you can't just click on them to open, you'll have to save them first and then open them by double clicking them from the directory you save them in.

You said?
(At the forward end of the motor tube, approximately 1 inch aft, are four holes 90 degrees apart. The baffle was simply a length of BT-50 coupler (well, thicker than normal) with a plug in the aft end. This was inserted into the motor tube until it was flush with the forward end of the holes.)
I do not understand, put maybe if I see the plans, also what is a TangThe holes are punched in the motor tube about 1" from the front, 90 degrees apart like you were mounting four fins on a rocket. Once you save the tif images and open them, you should be able to figure it out. Tang was an orange drink :D (couldn't resist). The tang is just something to connect the recovery system together with (and the body kit). Again, I've got a drawing of it in the tifs provided.

Also what was the thickens of the Balsa-Ply fins?They were 1/8" I think. But that was the ply. I think you can use 1/16" basswood okay. I'll re-measure and post when I get home.

Everyone Knows the Launch Lug needs to be at the center of gravity or was there two launch lugs on the Lift-Kit and one on the Body-Kit.Only one launch lug and it was with the lift kit. I haven't mounted mine yet but I'm putting it at the joint between the lift kit and the body kit.

[Arley Davis]

I finally figured out how to save it over into Coral Draw!

First left clicks your mouse on a file then when the window comes up click Save Target As, then save it into your drawing program.
After studying it and figuring out what they were talking about, for they were using different terminology for most of the parts. I now plan on adding the definitions to the diagrams so it’s not so confusing. I’m sure however did the instructions, has not a lot of experience in drafting.

Since they do not tail you were to but the launch Lug I would install a motor and find out were the center of gravity is and place the Launch lug at that location. You might even what to install two, one on the left-kit and one on the Body kit just to be safe.

The plans said the fins were 3/32” Balsa-Ply, I can make my own by using a thin wood center with balsa on the outsides of the hardwood sheet.

[Arley Davis]

As I posted yesterday I would redraw the diagrams for the Lift-Kit, for the plans are confusing. It took some time but have finished the first one. What do you all thank!

I re-drawed the image you did of the Tang barone, I hope that’s ok with you, and its to scale so it can be used as a template.

I will send them all to Scott when there all finished.

[barone]

As I posted yesterday I would redraw the diagrams for the Lift-Kit, for the plans are confusing. It took some time but have finished the first one. What do you all thank!

I re-drawed the image you did of the Tang barone, I hope that’s ok with you, and its to scale so it can be used as a template.

I will send them all to Scott when there all finished.Arley,

I have no problems with anything that makes it easier for someone to understand how something is done. I think you've captured that :)

[Skippy]

Indeed... so many companies I never even heard of. When I get done cloning my old Centuri favorites (just have the Bandito to go), I may start on some of these others. I like that forked model above.

... Skippy, eh? Who's evil twin are you? :D

Vern Estes? :rolleyes:

Seriously, I had to wiki the whole 'evil twin skippy' thing. One thing I'm not is George W's twin! :p

[handeman]

The holes are punched in the motor tube about 1" from the front, 90 degrees apart like you were mounting four fins on a rocket.

Arley, Am I to assume that the 2" and 2 1/8" centerline dimensions for the hole locations on the drawing should be ignored and use the 1" dimension you mentioned earlier?

[barone]

Arley, Am I to assume that the 2" and 2 1/8" centerline dimensions for the hole locations on the drawing should be ignored and use the 1" dimension you mentioned earlier?Well, I'm not Arley but he's got some conflicts in his drawing. The drawing shows the holes at 2 1/8 inch from the front of the tube (based on the dimensions on the left side of the image) but I think he meant the front of the coupler since he shows the coupler to be two inches long and about half of it is sticking out of the motor tube. Also, the words on the right side of the image says the holes are 1" from the front of the tube.

[Arley Davis]

Thanks for catching my mistake it would be 1-1/8”. This is one of the reasons I posted it here first because it will be no problem to change it. If you see anything that is wrong with the diagrams Please let me know so I can change them before sending them to Scott.

I will do this right now and delete the diagram and replace it with the corrected one

Thanks Guy’s!

[Arley Davis]

Here is the second Diagram of the Lift-Kit, I do not thank there are any mistakes but if you do see any please let me Know, So I can correct the mistake.

I changed the diagram on #21 as was pointed out!

[Arley Davis]

Here is the Third Diagram of the Lift-Kit, Once again I do not thank there are any mistakes but if you do see any please let me Know, So I can correct the mistake.

You should also know that to get the diagrams posted on this thread, that they are at a low resolution and the ones sent to Scott will Look better.

Next the fin Sheet!

[Arley Davis]

I am trying to, At this time make up fin patterns from the small Patterns from the Products flyer that has drawings of all 3 fin types, and I hit an Impasse.

Please do not get Mad Barone put I need you to either send me a trace or post it, of one of the fins or could you take a measurement for me from the fin. From your posted Fin plan shows the Root Edge as 4-1/4”, Leading edge is 2-7/8” and the distance the fin extends gut from the root edge is 2-1/8”. I am pretty sure the fin taps on both are wrong, and the angles and Leading Edges are different. See the Image of Lift-Kit Fin Compassion below!

I know by the plans and the Image of the fins being placed, that the fins are centered between the body Tube. See Image from Catalog.

I sure appreciate this, and I hope I can use the fin Patterns from the Products so we all can make any one of the three Lift-Kits we wish.


Lift-Kit Fin Compassion

[barone]

Please do not get Mad Barone put I need you to either send me a trace of post it, of one of the fins or could you take a measurement for me from the fin. From your posted Fin plan shows the Root Edge as 4-1/4”, Leading edge is 2-7/8” and the distance the fin extends gut from the root edge is 2-1/8”. I am pretty sure the fin taps on both are wrong’ and the angles and Leading Edges are different. See the Image of Lift-Kit Fin Compassion below!

I know by the plans and the Image of the fins being placed, that the fins are centered between the body Tube. See Image from Catalog.

I sure appreciate this, and I hope I can use the fin Patterns from the Products so we all can make any one of the three Lift-Kits we wish.


Lift-Kit Fin CompassionHey Arley,

Don't worry about upsetting me. We're here to work together to get things figured out. I can't scan the fins because they're attached already so all measurements are coming from the installed fins.

Okay...here's what I've got....

The root edge is 4.25". The tip length is 2 7/8". Cord length is 2 1/8". The leading edge is 2.25".

The fin is not centered on the lift kit. The leading edge is 1/2" back from the forward end of the lift kit. The front of the body slot should be about 4 3/8" from the bottom (1 5/8" from front of tube). The fin tab measurment is something I'm not sure of. I know it has to start 1 1/8" from the leading edge of the fin (because it fits against the forward centering ring of the motor mount). Now, it could be centered on the fin which would mean it would also end 1 1/8" from the rear of the fin. If the root is 4 1/4", then the fin tab length would have to be 2" long. The depth of the tab would have to be the difference between the OD of the BT50 and the OD of the BT 60 (1.637 - .976 = .661"). Now, assuming the fin tab is 2" long, the body tube slot would go from 2 3/8" from bottom of tube to 4 3/8" from bottom of tube.

Does this help Arley?

[Arley Davis]

Barone I do not understand way there is a difference, From what you have the fin is ½” down from the top of the BT-60 body Tube

But as you can see from the image that was scanned from the Catalog, and then were I took equal yellow triangles that the #RL1 and the #RL2 are just slightly of center put closer to the Bottom not the top. And from the image the #RL3 it is exactly centered.

The Second Image shows were your fin with the tape offset would be on the body tube.

I simply do not know what to thank, what do the rest of you thank?

[barone]

Barone I do not understand way there is a difference, From what you have the fin is ½” down from the top of the BT-60 body Tube

But as you can see from the image that was scanned from the Catalog, and then were I took equal yellow triangles that the #RL1 and the #RL2 are just slightly of center put closer to the Bottom not the top. And from the image the #RL3 it is exactly centered.

The Second Image shows were your fin with the tape offset would be on the body tube.

I simply do not know what to thank, what do the rest of you thank?Hey Arley,

Well, you know sometimes the kits are different than the catalog shows. If you look at the lift kit assembly instructions, step three, it tells you the slots are offset on the body tube towards the top. The drawing next to steps 5 thru 7 also show the slots as being offset towards the top.

[Arley Davis]

Hey Barone, to change the topic but from the Header Card that you posted of the #RB1 Skyblazer, shows flames on the upper half of the rocket. I was wondering did this Body-Kit come with flame decals, or are you supposed to paint them on yourself.

[barone]

Hey Barone, to change the topic but from the Header Card that you posted of the #RB1 Skyblazer, shows flames on the upper half of the rocket. I was wondering did this Body-Kit come with flame decals, or are you supposed to paint them on yourself.No, they didn't come with decals. I was thinking of using some pine car decals or something like that. Have you been able to work up the fins for the other lift kits? I don't know if your catalog listed prices, but these that I bought were expensive for what you got (but, hey, they were unique) so I only bought these. When I decided to get some others (hoping for a discount since he company no longer existed), the kits no longer existed either :(

[Arley Davis]

Hey Barone

Here is a Comparison of what you have what was in the Product flyer, and ones drawn from the Catalog. All images were taken from the information you provided, That is I used the 4 -1/4” root edge to blow up the Product flyer, and the catalog image was blown up to 6” body tube length. Except for the fin being placed in the center the fin size was almost identical between the catalog and you pattern, so that told me that probably the catalog image was truer.

So as you can see there is no way of getting a true pattern. The color patterns may be off put until the true patterns come up it’s the closest I can get.

Maybe with luck someone else will post the other patterns?

Will anyway to change the subject, I figured there were no decals, so no surprise there.

And as for the price of the Mach-1 kits, that’s one of the reasons I never purchased their kits. The Lift Kits were $19.95 and the simple body kits were $9.95 to $24.95 for the Raider, and this was in the early 90’s. It just seamed too much and I figured it was one of the reasons they went out of business.

[barone]

Hey Barone

Here is a Comparison of what you have what was in the Product flyer, and ones drawn from the Catalog. All images were taken from the information you provided, That is I used the 4 -1/4” root edge to blow up the Product flyer, and the catalog image was blown up to 6” body tube length. Except for the fin being placed in the center the fin size was almost identical between the catalog and you pattern, so that told me that probably the catalog image was truer.

So as you can see there is no way of getting a true pattern. The color patterns may be off put until the true patterns come up it’s the closest I can get.

Maybe with luck someone else will post the other patterns?

Will anyway to change the subject, I figured there were no decals, so no surprise there.

And as for the price of the Mach-1 kits, that’s one of the reasons I never purchased their kits. The Lift Kits were $19.95 and the simple body kits were $9.95 to $24.95 for the Raider, and this was in the early 90’s. It just seamed too much and I figured it was one of the reasons they went out of business.Hey Arley....can you make these available at full scale? I think it might be interesting to build some more lift kits based on these....

[Arley Davis]

What I posted was to full scale and yes I can, for I planed on it if everyone knows that they’re probably not exact and only close to the actual fins. It will take a day or two, put since there not exact fin patterns I can not send them to Scott to post.

So how did you Post on this thread the files you posted, I only know how to post images and not a file, so other’s can down load it?

[DaveR]

Originally Posted by Arley Davis
So as you can see there is no way of getting a true pattern. The color patterns may be off put until the true patterns come up it’s the closest I can get.

Maybe with luck someone else will post the other patterns?

Hey Arley and Don,
I wouldn't say there is no way of getting a true pattern. :rolleyes: I'm about 100% sure I have the actual fins in question. :D Would it work if I made a photocopy of the fins and posted it here? If you guys don't think that will work, I'd be glad to get a fin to Don to scan.


After a quick rummage around the shop, I turned up 3 of 4 fins, the other is around here somewhere.

[barone]

Hey Arley and Don,
I wouldn't say there is no way of getting a true pattern. :rolleyes: I'm about 100% sure I have the actual fins in question. :D Would it work if I made a photocopy of the fins and posted it here? If you guys don't think that will work, I'd be glad to get a fin to Don to scan.Dave's the Man! :)

If you photo copy, be sure to place some kind of scale with it so it can be measured accurately, you know, like a 1" mark or something. Of course, I'm always willing to do it for you (you still got my number?). I know Scott prefers a particular type of scan for posting......fin patterns I think are like a 75 dpi jpg (I used to have it written somewhere, now I just go back to the posting instructions).
So how did you Post on this thread the files you posted, I only know how to post images and not a file, so other’s can down load it?Arley....I just use the manage attachments button (scroll down when you're in the edit window) and attach the file. An image file (jpg) will show up like a thumbnail.

[DaveR]

Can do! We have a new fangled copier at work and the "big man" is out o' town. Will try to tweak to best resolution and post tomorrow.

[DaveR]

If you photo copy, be sure to place some kind of scale with it so it can be measured accurately, you know, like a 1" mark or something. Of course, I'm always willing to do it for you (you still got my number?). I know Scott prefers a particular type of scan for posting......fin patterns I think are like a 75 dpi jpg (I used to have it written somewhere, now I just go back to the posting instructions).
Arley....I just use the manage attachments button (scroll down when you're in the edit window) and attach the file. An image file (jpg) will show up like a thumbnail.

Here's the scan of the fin pattern. Hopefully the resolution is OK. If not, please let me know and I'll see what I can do.

Just noticed the scan is upside down, fin leading edge is at bottom, you can see the balsa grain diredction so it shouldn't be an issue.

[Ltvscout]

Here's the scan of the fin pattern. Hopefully the resolution is OK. If not, please let me know and I'll see what I can do.
That should be fine. Thanks, Dave.

[DaveR]

That should be fine. Thanks, Dave.

Actually, quite glad to be of assistance for once. :)

[Arley Davis]

Dear Sadmug

Something went wrong and the Image did not come out will, put from what I could tale it was the same fin as Barone’s only centered. Do you have the other two fins or patterns, the Delta or Eagle. For the Lift-Kits are all the same it is just the fins that are different. There are three of the fin types in all. See image from catalog on thread number 31.

[Ltvscout]

Dear Sadmug

Something went wrong and the Image did not come out will, put from what I could tale it was the same fin as Barone’s only centered. Do you have the other two fins or patterns, the Delta or Eagle. For the Lift-Kits are all the same it is just the fins that are different. There are three of the fin types in all. See image from catalog on thread number 31.
It looks fine on my end, Arley.

[DaveR]

Dear Sadmug

Something went wrong and the Image did not come out will, put from what I could tale it was the same fin as Barone’s only centered. Do you have the other two fins or patterns, the Delta or Eagle. For the Lift-Kits are all the same it is just the fins that are different. There are three of the fin types in all. See image from catalog on thread number 31.

Sorry Arley, I only have the Terminator kit.

[Skippy]

Dear Sadmug

Something went wrong and the Image did not come out will, put from what I could tale it was the same fin as Barone’s only centered. Do you have the other two fins or patterns, the Delta or Eagle. For the Lift-Kits are all the same it is just the fins that are different. There are three of the fin types in all. See image from catalog on thread number 31.

Do you have a TIFF viewer plugin for your browser? Lots of browsers, including the big guns, won't read TIFF files as a standard file format. The no fuss TIFF viewer plugin is free, and here:

http://www.alternatiff.com/

A must have if you spend a lot of time on Jimz.

[Solomoriah]

I just download them and convert them to PNG. PNG is lossless and generally makes those images about 10-20% smaller than they are as TIFFs.

See, I run Linux on my main computer, so Alternatiff doesn't help me a bit. I do have a TIFF viewer as a separate program, but that just kind of sucks.

[CPMcGraw]

I just download them and convert them to PNG. PNG is lossless and generally makes those images about 10-20% smaller than they are as TIFFs.

See, I run Linux on my main computer, so Alternatiff doesn't help me a bit. I do have a TIFF viewer as a separate program, but that just kind of sucks.

Have you tried Xara Xtreme? It's a vector graphics program, but it should be able to import TIF images.

[Solomoriah]

Xara is a Windows app, right? Like I said, I run Linux.

[CPMcGraw]

Xara is a Windows app, right? Like I said, I run Linux.

Xara Xtreme is the Linux version of the full-house Windows version, and is free to download. The Windows version is their cash cow and comes in a "lite" and a "pro".

[Solomoriah]

Xara Xtreme is the Linux version of the full-house Windows version, and is free to download. The Windows version is their cash cow and comes in a "lite" and a "pro".
Ah. Didn't know that.

If Firefox would just support TIF internally it wouldn't bother me a bit... I just hate external viewers.

[Arley Davis]

Here are the fin patterns for the Mach-1 Lift kits, the Terminator fin pattern should be correct but the Delta and Eagle were taken from the catalog and may not be 100% accurate. Maybe some day they will show up but until this happens this is as close as I could get.

If you wish a copy of this pattern sheet email me at arleydavis@cox.net with your email address and I will send you a jpeg of this pattern sheet.

I am also not positive about the grain but typical for Low Power is the grain to go from the lower bottom side next to the body tube, to go up at approx. a 45% angle.

[barone]

Arley,

I found this body kit while I was digging through my stuff to find something for Scott (yes, I found that too).

[Ltvscout]

Arley,

I found this body kit while I was digging through my stuff to find something for Scott (yes, I found that too).
Yes, Sting I can use.