Interceptor E Finishing Tips from Roguepink

[Gus]

Roguepink, the designer of the finishing scheme for the Interceptor E, very kindly responded to my request to know what paints he used. His comment about the pearlescent is in response to my stating it appears gradient-like on both his photos and the kit art work.


From Roguepink:

The base color is Krylon gloss white from the can.
The pearlescent is Lumiere silver pearl acrylic found at well-stocked art supply stores. I thinned it 1 part paint to 10 parts alcohol, airbrushed though frisket (a very low tack film) cut with random shapes. The pearlescent is not a gradient, but it reflects differently to varying angles of light.
The silver edging is Testor's Silver in the 1/4 oz. bottle, airbrushed.
The pods are Testor's "Racing Orange" rattle-can.


He also notes more good stuff is on the way from Estes, and that there's a possibility there may be a finishing tips section on the Estes website at some point in the future.

Again, my thanks to Roguepink for responding to my question. I'm sure many will appreciate the info.

[Rocket Doctor]

Gus

Rougepink is a great guy and a friend.

As I had mentioned many times on the old Estes Forum, many new and exciting kits, bringbacks and new kit were planned, but, due to changes in employees over the past six months, I guess that slowed them down.

If they do only a quarter of what they had originally planned, it will be really exciting, and, from what I hear, they have added a few surprises in the mix as well.

Only time will tell.

Enjoy building your 1350 and post pictures and launch info when your finished.
Ken

[toejrb]

I've wanted to do an Interceptor-E in the Roguepink style since seeing the pictures of his model in this thread. (http://www.oldrocketforum.com/showpost.php?p=29555&postcount=41) It took a lot of chipping away with the airbrush -- a couple in-process pictures are attached -- but my version's finally done. Kudos to Roguepink for coming up with the ideas that went into this finish scheme.

Despite how cool the Roguepink model is, it seems that Estes used another model for the packaging cover picture (no weathering and no silver on the fin leading edges), and used still another model for publicity glamor shots (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?I=LXSDH2&P=8 no weathering, silver engine nozzle). The Roguepink model just appears in the kit instructions. Always wondered why that was so, when the Roguepink version looked as good as it did.

[ghrocketman]

Gus,

Thanks for getting RoGUEpink's handle correct.
He never has had rouge in his handle !

:chuckle:

[Rocket Doctor]

Gus,

Thanks for getting RoGUEpink's handle correct.
He never has had rouge in his handle !

:chuckle:


Probably alittle ROUGH while at 1295 H St

[carbons4]

Those pictures look good !!! I always liked the Interceptor. For the Liars contest at Naram19 My friend and I said we invented a enlarging machine. He built a Maxi Kopter using Bt101 and a V-2 nose cone and I built a double scale Interceptor and a A8-3 engine on a 4" dia shipping tube. Doug almost canceled the contest because we were running late but he knew if he did that we would have tared and feathered him for all the work we did. The interceptor flew good with F100's. The Maxi Kopter was something to behold.......................

[carbons4]

I have to say it again, Those look good!!!!

[toejrb]

I have to say it again, Those look good!!!!

Thanks! I remember building the original interceptor in the seventies, and was thrilled to hear about the E version; even more jazzed after seeing the pix on this forum.

A big part of why this took so long was that I used an acrylic pearlescent paint that took a long time to dry (cure?) hard enough to mask over. The long drying time also meant I could only use a given frisket mask one or two times a day before I had to set it aside and let it dry overnight.

If I do this again, or something like it, I'd use tinted Alclad lacquers instead of pearlescent. Alclad dries instantly, and a light, lightly tinted coat could definitely pass for pearlescent. I understand there are some pearlescent lacquers out there, but the only ones I could find were for automotive applications and sold in quanities far beyond what I'd ever use.

[tbzep]

A big part of why this took so long was that I used an acrylic pearlescent paint that took a long time to dry (cure?) hard enough to mask over.
Some of those pearlescent acrylics recommend heating in order to set/cure them on T-shirts. I used heat to cure Createx faster when I used it on a recent model.

[dyaugo]

Those pictures look good !!! I always liked the Interceptor. For the Liars contest at Naram19 My friend and I said we invented a enlarging machine. He built a Maxi Kopter using Bt101 and a V-2 nose cone and I built a double scale Interceptor and a A8-3 engine on a 4" dia shipping tube. Doug almost canceled the contest because we were running late but he knew if he did that we would have tared and feathered him for all the work we did. The interceptor flew good with F100's. The Maxi Kopter was something to behold.......................

ESTES could have done a better job with the materials. I had purchased a kit from them with missing parts and warped balsa and wrote them an email using their site and never heard anything back from them? Not sure if my email even went through or they got it and chose to ignore me, but either way I still have a kit that is of no good to me. I paid $35 awhile back (Feb 2011) on Hobbylinc...and just got around to building it last month or so.. oh well. I think I will pass on their kits.

I hear their new kits are they are coming out with are suppose to be much better...the MPR kits.

[tbzep]

ESTES could have done a better job with the materials. I had purchased a kit from them with missing parts and warped balsa and wrote them an email using their site and never heard anything back from them? Not sure if my email even went through or they got it and chose to ignore me, but either way I still have a kit that is of no good to me. I paid $35 awhile back on Hobbylinc...and just got around to building it last month or so.. oh well. I think I will pass on their kits.

I hear their new kits are they are coming out with are suppose to be much better...the MPR kits.
A good portion of the "never heard anything back from them" posts are where Estes replied but the email provider or client software flagged it as spam and chunked it in the spam folder.

Check your spam folder if the correspondence was recent. Most spam folders are set to automatically delete after a certain number of days, so it's likely not going to be there if you wrote them more than a few weeks ago.

[dyaugo]

A good portion of the "never heard anything back from them" posts are where Estes replied but the email provider or client software flagged it as spam and chunked it in the spam folder.

Check your spam folder if the correspondence was recent. Most spam folders are set to automatically delete after a certain number of days, so it's likely not going to be there if you wrote them more than a few weeks ago.

That's what I figured too, but nothing came in from them under my spam folder. I've heard good things about ESTES and I know it probably wasn't intentional. I think maybe if I wrote to someone directly ...their own email then I know I would probably get a response either way.

I just tried again to email them and included the email I received from Hobbylinc confirming my purchase. If I don't hear from them I will call them in a few days.

[Scotty Dog]

Yup, most likely some kind of filter wammy jammy and they never got it or whatever. Just last week I contacted them using their SITE contact and didnt get a reply. I just happend to have a different email addy saved in my addy book from an email they sent me on an issue I had with some instructions. I used that addy and got a reply back the same day.

[dyaugo]

I just heard back from Christine and she said she would mail out the new parts....

[dyaugo]

You guys may want to check out some build threads from Hornet Driver on TRF...he has so much talent. You should see some of the mods he did to his Interceptors...very impressive!!

[electromag.11]

I'm building the 18mm Estes Interceptor, and using the finishing techniques I read about in the October issue of Apogee Rockets newsletter (Issue #298).

This is the first time I've attempted a high-quality finish on a model rocket, so I'm a novice at finishing. I've filled the spiral seam with Elmer's Carpenters Wood filler, as well as applying several coats of the wood filler to the balsa fins. I plan to use 4 coats of Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2X Ultra Cover primer, alternating gray and white primer, and wet sanding between coats (per the suggestions in the Apogee newsletter). I have Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2X gloss white paint and gloss clear coat (to avoid mixing different types of paint).

The Interceptor nose cone has many details molded into the nosecone, including recessed areas for the cockpit, which decals will be placed over.

I've never painted a plastic nose cone before, so I'm wondering if it is a good idea to paint the nose cone in similar fashion to the body tube, with 4 coats of primer, gloss white and clear coat. Will the molded details of the nose cone make it difficult to get a high quality finish?

Alternately, I could apply the decals directly to the nose cone, and cover with Rustoleum gloss clear. Applying the decals directly to the unpainted nose cone would be less of a risk, but I'm wondering if the finish would appear different then the rest of the rocket.

[raohara]

ESTES could have done a better job with the materials. I had purchased a kit from them with missing parts and warped balsa and wrote them an email using their site and never heard anything back from them? Not sure if my email even went through or they got it and chose to ignore me, but either way I still have a kit that is of no good to me. I paid $35 awhile back (Feb 2011) on Hobbylinc...and just got around to building it last month or so.. oh well. I think I will pass on their kits.

I hear their new kits are they are coming out with are suppose to be much better...the MPR kits.
I know in the end Estes came through for you, but did you ever contact Hobbylinc? Do they support what they sell?

- Rich

[toejrb]

Uncoated plastic can look good with enough work. I went with uncoated on the Red Max reissue plastic nosecone, after wet sanding with progressively finer grits, and am happy with how it looks.

FWIW, in doing the Roguepink replica, I basically treated the nose cone like a stand-alone plastic model. I used only two coats of primer (Painter's Touch, as it happens). Too many coats of primer will fill recessed detail like the panel lines and the windshield frame, and then you have to chase the primer out with a scribe if you want the detail to show.

If you're going for a high finish level, you'll want to sand off the mold flashing. IIRC, there were also one or two sections of the molding seam that needed filling. After sanding/filling you'll likely need to rescribe some recessed lines that the sanding obliterates. I did most of this work before any priming, so only hairline defects showed after the first primer coat; none after add'l fine wet sanding and a second primer coat.

I'm building the 18mm Estes Interceptor, and using the finishing techniques I read about in the October issue of Apogee Rockets newsletter (Issue #298).

[snip]

I've never painted a plastic nose cone before, so I'm wondering if it is a good idea to paint the nose cone in similar fashion to the body tube, with 4 coats of primer, gloss white and clear coat. Will the molded details of the nose cone make it difficult to get a high quality finish?

Alternately, I could apply the decals directly to the nose cone, and cover with Rustoleum gloss clear. Applying the decals directly to the unpainted nose cone would be less of a risk, but I'm wondering if the finish would appear different then the rest of the rocket.

[toejrb]

Good tip, thanks. Hair dryer?

Some of those pearlescent acrylics recommend heating in order to set/cure them on T-shirts. I used heat to cure Createx faster when I used it on a recent model.

[electromag.11]

Thanks for the tip!

[tbzep]

Good tip, thanks. Hair dryer?
I used a heat gun made for shrinking R/C plane covering and held it back a little, but a hair dryer should work.

[Bravo52]

I've never painted a plastic nose cone before, so I'm wondering if it is a good idea to paint the nose cone in similar fashion to the body tube, with 4 coats of primer, gloss white and clear coat. Will the molded details of the nose cone make it difficult to get a high quality finish?

Alternately, I could apply the decals directly to the nose cone, and cover with Rustoleum gloss clear. Applying the decals directly to the unpainted nose cone would be less of a risk, but I'm wondering if the finish would appear different then the rest of the rocket.

I don't think you will get a consistent "white" on the rocket without painting the nosecone. Unlike the Red Max mentioned earlier, the Interceptor is supposed to be the same white across the entire rocket. The RM has a natural break in the color scheme (ie black NC and red BT). Bottom line is that if you don't paint the NC, it may look funny.

[DavidQ]

I've never painted a plastic nose cone before, so I'm wondering if it is a good idea to paint the nose cone in similar fashion to the body tube, with 4 coats of primer, gloss white and clear coat.
I think the primer coat is the most important for the nose cones. Since paints and primers don't grab to shiny plastic as well as they do to paper and wood, you could find some stretch marks in your primer if you put it on too heavy. I've had buildup/automotive primer shink from a heavy application, and since it has no give, it pulls apart leaving stretch marks. Always apply a few dusting coats of primer on the plastic so that each coat isn't very wet. Then, it can be sanded as you say, and made to look just like the rest of the beautiful rocket.

Oh yeah, wipe the nose down with alcohol first and let it thoroughly dry, to get off any finger prints, mold release, or other contaminants that can make even primer leave fish eyes. Some like to lightly sand the cone, but that depends upon whether it has details on it or not.

[electromag.11]

I think the primer coat is the most important for the nose cones. Since paints and primers don't grab to shiny plastic as well as they do to paper and wood, you could find some stretch marks in your primer if you put it on too heavy. I've had buildup/automotive primer shink from a heavy application, and since it has no give, it pulls apart leaving stretch marks. Always apply a few dusting coats of primer on the plastic so that each coat isn't very wet. Then, it can be sanded as you say, and made to look just like the rest of the beautiful rocket.

Oh yeah, wipe the nose down with alcohol first and let it thoroughly dry, to get off any finger prints, mold release, or other contaminants that can make even primer leave fish eyes. Some like to lightly sand the cone, but that depends upon whether it has details on it or not.

I hit the nose cone with a light coat of primer, but the line details on the Interceptor nose cone are so fine that even after a light coat, they were already starting to fill in. I wiped the entire nose cone down with alcohol, which removed most, if not all of the primer, then used a scribe to remove the primer from the line detail.

Interestingly, wiping the nose cone down with alcohol seemed to take the shine off the nose cone, and created a finish that looked like it would grab paint a little better. Since I didn't have much luck with primer, and the nose cone looks a little more paint-ready after cleaning it with alcohol, I think I'll just keep my fingers crossed and try two light coats of the final white paint.

I'm using Rustoleum Automotive Enamel (white gloss), since I couldn't find Rustoleum Painters Touch 2X in gloss white. I haven't started spraying yet, so I could return the automotive enamel and get a different paint (presumably Rustoleum Painters Touch 2X in gloss white).

Any thoughts?

[DavidQ]

My thought is to shoot the nose lightly, so as to just give it the color, but not wet enough to get the sheen, since without primer, I tend to get pooling and fish eyes from plastic. I think I'd try to get the sheen from my clearcoat instead of the paint surface, just to keep the detail.

One thing I have tried with some success when I want a thin coat is to shoot a bunch of paint from the rattle can into my airbrush bottle, and then apply it lightly with the air brush. I have much more control over the paint flow that way.

But then, I've not started my Interceptor E, and I'm kinda waiting for your results. Isn't being a guinea pig great!

[electromag.11]

My thought is to shoot the nose lightly, so as to just give it the color, but not wet enough to get the sheen, since without primer, I tend to get pooling and fish eyes from plastic. I think I'd try to get the sheen from my clearcoat instead of the paint surface, just to keep the detail.

One thing I have tried with some success when I want a thin coat is to shoot a bunch of paint from the rattle can into my airbrush bottle, and then apply it lightly with the air brush. I have much more control over the paint flow that way.

But then, I've not started my Interceptor E, and I'm kinda waiting for your results. Isn't being a guinea pig great!

Sounds like a good plan, however, I don't have an airbrush, so I'm going to give it a shot with the Rustoleum Automotive Enamel. Going to give it as light of a coat as I possibly can... wish me luck!

I just might build the Interceptor E in 2012... maybe we should start a thread...

[toejrb]

I just might build the Interceptor E in 2012... maybe we should start a thread...

A while back there was a looong thread (http://www.oldrocketforum.com/showthread.php?t=2471) on building the E. Great reference.

[electromag.11]

A while back there was a looong thread (http://www.oldrocketforum.com/showthread.php?t=2471) on building the E. Great reference.

Thanks for the tip - I'll check it out!

Maybe I could start a thread about Building the Interceptor E for complete novices who have never even owned an E engine and aren't entirely sure they have a field big enough to launch an Interceptor E even if they built the rocket and bought the engines.

[dyaugo]

I hit the nose cone with a light coat of primer, but the line details on the Interceptor nose cone are so fine that even after a light coat, they were already starting to fill in. I wiped the entire nose cone down with alcohol, which removed most, if not all of the primer, then used a scribe to remove the primer from the line detail.

Interestingly, wiping the nose cone down with alcohol seemed to take the shine off the nose cone, and created a finish that looked like it would grab paint a little better. Since I didn't have much luck with primer, and the nose cone looks a little more paint-ready after cleaning it with alcohol, I think I'll just keep my fingers crossed and try two light coats of the final white paint.

I'm using Rustoleum Automotive Enamel (white gloss), since I couldn't find Rustoleum Painters Touch 2X in gloss white. I haven't started spraying yet, so I could return the automotive enamel and get a different paint (presumably Rustoleum Painters Touch 2X in gloss white).

Any thoughts?

WARNING!!!!! PLEASE READ!!!

I wouldn't use the Rustoleum gloss white (Try Duplicolor Gloss White). It comes out like cottage cheese. If you do decide on doing so spray on something other than your rocket first. Trust me I had this happen to me before and posted it on another forum and found out I wasn't the only one that experienced the same problem. As far as primer I can see how the high build primer can fill in the details. I would probably go with a different primer that wasn't high build, but check the compatibility first before spraying on the rocket. Maybe something from TESTORS??? I have two of these kits and have been kicking around the idea of actually building one. I have mix ideas on how to improve it so I might sit on them awhile if I can't sell them first?