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View Full Version : How do the clear paints react with decals?


rangerstl
05-12-2008, 08:56 PM
All:

Getting ready to spray my latest rocket with Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear (in the new can, but actually might not be a new formula like the colors...)

I know there are some decals that melt when you put clears on them. Any experience out there with the Krylon over Quest?

N

LeeR
05-12-2008, 10:14 PM
All:

Getting ready to spray my latest rocket with Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear (in the new can, but actually might not be a new formula like the colors...)

I know there are some decals that melt when you put clears on them. Any experience out there with the Krylon over Quest?

N

I've used the new Krylon UV-Resistant, both matte and gloss clears. Fine over several types of paint. I've used the gloss to provide a smooth surface over flat paint for decals, and then resprayed with the matte to restore the flat finish. I have also used to older Krylons that were not marked UV-Resistant with good results.

MKP
05-13-2008, 12:34 PM
I've never had a problem with Krylon's Crystal Clear on any decal. Hopefully, they haven't changed the formula.(doubt it)

jetlag
05-13-2008, 01:36 PM
All:

Getting ready to spray my latest rocket with Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear (in the new can, but actually might not be a new formula like the colors...)

I know there are some decals that melt when you put clears on them. Any experience out there with the Krylon over Quest?

N
The Old formula Krylon clear WILL absolutely will destroy certain decals. Papa Tango decals will krinkle for sure. The best way around this, especially if you do not have any 'test' decals, is to use Future, you know, the stuff for shiney floors! It is fabulous! Use an airbrush to spray on the entire finish when the decals have dried. You can literally pour it on with an airbrush and all excess will drip off the rocket body, because it is so thin. I spray mine down completely, then set the rocket up pointed skywards on a stand to let the material drip off. Over a period of about 5 to 15 minutes, take a dry rag and 'touch' any drips hanging off the lowest points (a fin corner, etc.)
You will be amazed, and the product seems to resist yellowing MUCH better than Krylon. Lighter weight, too!
Hope this helps,
Allen

rangerstl
05-14-2008, 08:01 AM
Thanks all;

I tried Future and it literally beaded up and ran off the glossy white paint. I could not get it to coat at all. The Krylon Clear Gloss went on dull and wavy. I'm really disappointed, but the Future might stick now to the rougher surface.

I think I should stop, though, because I'm pretty sure there are 8 coats of various paint on this rocket...! :D

jetlag
05-14-2008, 09:46 AM
Yes, it does bead up. This why you can hose the rocket down with Future, unthinned. I just go back over the area several times (all during the 'first coat'). It will eventually wet the whole surface and quit beading. All that excess Future just runs off the rocket (remember, point it upwards) and dries to a great sheen. I must admit, the first time I tried it, I was somewhat discouraged, but I was told to keep wetting the rocket down and it (the beads)would go away. It did! I was amazed.
So, I guess the moral of the story is, don't get discouraged! Just keep hosing the rocket and the beads will dissipate. Set the rocket on a stand straight up and let the Future run off; just touch the eventual droplets with a dry rag or paper towel. As the Future dries, the drops quit dropping, and you're left with a run-free, thin, lightwieght clear-coat.
Allen

ScaleNut
05-14-2008, 04:45 PM
tango papa and excelsior supplies >alps printed< decals they need to be treated before clearcoating with krylon. excelsiors come with explicit instructions- not sure about tango papa.

the decals found in mainstream kits are silkscreened and already treated. I've had no troubles with krylon over them.

rosko_racer
05-15-2008, 06:29 AM
I have had good results with clearcoat paints (acrylics, enamels, laquers) over decals and other paints. Maybe it is because before I cut out the decals I cover them with a coat of Microscale Liquid Decal Film. This seems to protect the decals from the solvents in the clear coats, plus it makes them easier to handle. I have not teared a decal yet.

After I paint the rocket I wait about a week, maybe two, before applying any decals or clear coats. This way I make sure the paint has time to cure. I "sniff" the paint on the rocket to see if is smells like solvent. If the smell is strong, then it needs more time to cure. After that, you should be able to apply any clear coat without fear of damaging the finish.

Future Floor Finish - I have read a lot on this and it is highly recommended. The trick is on how you apply it. Some like to airbrush it straight or mixing it with something else I do not remember now. Others like to apply it with a piece of cloth, sponge, or paper towel.

I just finished my BSG Viper MK II "Long Nose" and covered it with two coats of Future. I used one of those cheap painting sponges like the ones you can buy at a craft store. I applied the Future on the rocket "one section at a time" and allowing it to dry before going to the next section. Pour some Future on a small plastic cup, then lighly dip the sponge into the Future, then apply it. Keep a piece of folded paper towel close so that you can take off any excess of Future from the sponge by touching the paper towel. Practice on an empty can of your favorite beverage. Once you feel comfortable with the procedure, go ahead and try it on your rocket. Beware this stuff runs veeeeeery easly but it pays off at the end. The finish is awesome!!! You can see how the rocket turned out on the attached picture, check the lower right picture and you will see the shine... :-)

Ah, remember to remove the nose cone before you apply Future, it will "glue" the NC to the rocket and you will not be able to remove it without damaging the rocket.

jetlag
05-15-2008, 07:11 AM
Wow, Rosko, that Viper is just too gorgious to fly! Great procedure with the sponge. I never thought of that. Future is indeed the way to go, unless you have to have a matte finish. I dislike those because of the horrible fingerprint issues. Looks good on military scale, though. Great input!