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View Full Version : Roachwerks Machining "factory seconds"


sandman
09-22-2008, 01:34 PM
The process of making the "odd" transitions for the Nike Hercules kits is fairly long and conmplex.

With so many steps involved in making these parts there are a lot of opportunities for mistakes to occur. I'm working with balsa and many of the steps involve drilling balsa part.
If anyone has ever tried to drill balsa you know that sometimes balsa just does no cooperate and one slight slip results in disaster.

While puttering around in my shop I have developed ways of repairing these part which makes them more than usable for a Nike Hercules model.

While usable in every way they are just not "comercially acceptable" for me to include in a kit.

I have several that have been repaired and I would like to know if YORF member would like the opportunity to purchase these transitions to make a Nike Hercules of their own.

I have two sizes available 4 x 24mm and 4 x 18mm.

I haven't come up with a price yet but would you guys be interested?

ghrocketman
09-22-2008, 01:51 PM
I may be interested in the 4x18mm depending on a price and if we can get templates/specs for the Hercules to go with them.

sandman
09-22-2008, 02:18 PM
I may be interested in the 4x18mm depending on a price and if we can get templates/specs for the Hercules to go with them.

Oh, yes, I would absolutely include the specs and patterns with the parts.

Otherwise they'd be kinda useless.

Peartree
09-22-2008, 02:39 PM
Oooh, ooh, ooh! I'm smelling a discount (factory seconds usually justs screams discount) and I LIKE discounts. I can't say for sure that I'd buy one (depends on budget and what I can slide past my wife) but I would definitely be interested.

sandman
09-22-2008, 03:47 PM
Well, don't get too excited there aren't very many of them.

I just hate throwing perfectly good parts away.

AKPilot
09-22-2008, 04:44 PM
I'd be interested in any that haven't already been spoken for, whether it be the 4x18, or the 4x24.

Thanks

pantherjon
09-23-2008, 07:29 AM
Me 3, or 4 for that matter!! Would like a 4x24mm ;)

LeeR
09-23-2008, 10:02 PM
Dittos!

CaninoBD
09-23-2008, 10:40 PM
I guess I could go for one of each if they are still avaiable

Der Red Max
09-24-2008, 03:16 AM
I have two sizes available 4 x 24mm and 4 x 18mm.

I haven't come up with a price yet but would you guys be interested?


Yes & yes!

chanstevens
09-24-2008, 06:52 AM
Geez, Sandman, with all this demand for factory seconds, you might want to consider investing in a screwup machine. Otherwise, you just can't seem to goof up enough to keep everyone satisfied.

sandman
09-24-2008, 08:42 AM
The 4 x 18mm transition is $20.

And the 4 x 24mm is $30.

Patterns are included

PM me if you are interested.

I only have 2 of each left.

Rocketflyer
09-24-2008, 08:43 AM
Geez, Sandman, with all this demand for factory seconds, you might want to consider investing in a screwup machine. Otherwise, you just can't seem to goof up enough to keep everyone satisfied.


Hehe. Kinda like a Rube Golberg Machine?

luke strawwalker
09-24-2008, 09:34 AM
Also, I've been meaning to write you and ask if you still have/can make the conical upper stage/nosecone for a BT-80 based Pershing II IRBM. I read on here awhile back that you had made a BT-80 based upper section for someone, with the transition, tapered electronics/warhead section, and nosecone. I'm trying the paper cone route and not having real good results, and could probably use the noseweight anyway. PM me with details please:)

Have a good one! OL JR :)

sandman
09-24-2008, 09:50 AM
Also, I've been meaning to write you and ask if you still have/can make the conical upper stage/nosecone for a BT-80 based Pershing II IRBM. I read on here awhile back that you had made a BT-80 based upper section for someone, with the transition, tapered electronics/warhead section, and nosecone. I'm trying the paper cone route and not having real good results, and could probably use the noseweight anyway. PM me with details please:)

Have a good one! OL JR :)

Sure, I can still make one.

Her's a drawing. I also included the patterns for the fins and some other stuff.

I don't show the shoulder in the drawing 'cause I ran out of room and didn't want to scale it any smaller.

I was going to PM you on thos but i can't attach drawings to a PM.

sandman
09-24-2008, 07:14 PM
lot's of replys but only one person has PM'd me on these parts.

luke strawwalker
09-25-2008, 10:31 AM
Thanks PM sent w/r to Pershing II :) OL JR :)

foose4string
09-26-2008, 06:23 PM
Also, I've been meaning to write you and ask if you still have/can make the conical upper stage/nosecone for a BT-80 based Pershing II IRBM. I read on here awhile back that you had made a BT-80 based upper section for someone, with the transition, tapered electronics/warhead section, and nosecone. I'm trying the paper cone route and not having real good results, and could probably use the noseweight anyway. PM me with details please:)

Have a good one! OL JR :)

JR, I have the BT80 PII cone that Gordon turned. It's funny you bring it up, 'cause I was just playing with my rocsim file again for my BT55 version, and starting really getting the urge to start on my BT80, and also do a Rocsim for that one and a BT60. I think I can manage the shrouds on a BT60 version pretty easily.

Gordon turned a mighty fine piece that will definitely get used! There are a few minor tweaks I would make to Sandman's drawings, especially after having studied the PII in person and taking photographs. But for the most part, it will make a nice looking PII!

I've got the hatch drawings that Sandman did at my request, plus a few other doo-dads, that I can post later.

foose4string
09-28-2008, 05:35 PM
Here's the hatch that Sandman drew, plus a few other details that I drew up with Corel.
Also, the decals....they may need a bit more tweaking to get them sized just right, but they should be close for anyone wanting to build the BT55 version.

luke strawwalker
09-29-2008, 12:20 PM
Here's the hatch that Sandman drew, plus a few other details that I drew up with Corel.
Also, the decals....they may need a bit more tweaking to get them sized just right, but they should be close for anyone wanting to build the BT55 version.

Thanks foose! Looks good! I'm looking at scratchbuilding a 'sportscale' sport flier PII. I'm not really shooting for a 'contest quality' model but I DO appreciate the information! I need to practice more with my cardstock skills.... I'll get a couple Dr. Zooch kits and learn how he does it on the Saturn I/Ib tanks and maybe those conical Soyuz tanks and cut my teeth that way... I've done some cardstock transitions before but I need a 'refresher course'. I think I'll probably go cardstock on the PII in BT-80 just to keep the weight down. I'd like pretty good performance off a D12 or E9... :D

Have a good one and thanks again! OL JR :)

foose4string
09-29-2008, 02:02 PM
Thanks foose! Looks good! I'm looking at scratchbuilding a 'sportscale' sport flier PII. I'm not really shooting for a 'contest quality' model but I DO appreciate the information! I need to practice more with my cardstock skills.... I'll get a couple Dr. Zooch kits and learn how he does it on the Saturn I/Ib tanks and maybe those conical Soyuz tanks and cut my teeth that way... I've done some cardstock transitions before but I need a 'refresher course'. I think I'll probably go cardstock on the PII in BT-80 just to keep the weight down. I'd like pretty good performance off a D12 or E9... :D

Have a good one and thanks again! OL JR :)


I can tell you from experience, rolling the Zooch 1B tubes and making those Soyuz tanks(especially the pointy tops) are more difficult then doing these transitions. You can use Rocsim or download one of those software widgets on EMRR to size and print them. Then it's just a matter of cutting them out, making a glue tab, and butting the ends together. It helps to have a mandrel like a BT or motor casing to help things along, but it's not as difficult as people make it out to be. I just ordered a balsa cone from Semroc to be use as the tip on a BT60 version. The shape is not quite scale, but it's close enough as far as I'm concerned. The lower transitions can be rolled and joined with a centering ring, and a Bt60 coupler for the base.