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ScaleNut
12-16-2008, 08:35 PM
ok I have lurked quite a while now but I have to put a rant down on this one.


I have painted nearly all of my rockets with an airbrush and have none of the issues mentioned.

I can easily spray at the volume(and more) of a spraycan
no mess
watercleanup in a few minutes(just spray water thru)
no bad fumes
no issues with blushing, cold weather ,humidity,heat
can mix colors to an exact match( for scale models)
cheaper
no layering of paint dust on everything
I have to really go crazy to get a run in the finish
quality airbrush paint color is designed to be deep and brilliant under clearcoat
unlimited supply of colors
acrylics can handle just about any brand or type of clear, no compatabillity issues
acrylics can go over nearly any brand or type of paint ,no compatability issues

with Createx I have never had to mix one drop of thinner, not in 4 years of airbrushing , it sprays perfect strait from the bottle . no thinning

usually I plug right into the bottle the other end into the compressor and spray
I can mask and spray several colors in one session.

I use the color cup for small amounts , the bottle for large amounts and have sprayed 4" dia rockets (including extensive masking, decals and clearcoat) in one session

I can create finishes that one can only dream of with a spraycan

my rockets have won beauty and scale contests, and fly just as well as spraycan models

did it take some trail and error and practices ?-yes
was it worth the effort ?-absolutely !

I don't look down on people for using spraycans.
I take pride in my building, I give the same effort to my finishing.

all I can ask here is...don't knock it just because you can't or don't want to airbrush a rocket, it's not an instant gratification thing but It works and it does the job very well.
I have a garage full of rockets to prove it

I have read post after post on many forums over the years about problems with painting rockets.
I can say that for me airbrushing has eliminated 99% of them

ScaleNut
12-17-2008, 12:56 PM
if I'm just going for overall coverage like a spraycan I run mine at 35-45psi -#5 or large tip.

the large tips are in the range of a spraycan orifice.

I think that one of the biggest mistakes people make with airbrushing is using the wrong tip.
for the job.

if the tip is too small than it sputters and clogs , turning up the pressure makes it spit out too much paint.
so a person will typically resort to thinning the paint down.or way too much
now it's spraying a drippy thin paint. and just becomes a nightmare. your fighting a losing battle

going to larger tips was like a eureka moment for me , it changed everything.

small tips are great for thin paint and fine details at low pressure.

I get the most use from mine in large tip spraycan mode. the only difference is much better control and a much finer spray than the typical can.I rarely ever get bleed thru. because the paint begins to dry almost instantly

once you have the spraycan mode working than it's much easier to start tightening down the tip size , thinning and high detail work.

the bottles of airbrush paint might be $2-3 but due to the thin layers you can spray ..alot of rockets can be painted with the added bonus of less weight.

I have found it to be far more economical than spraycans
a bottle of AB paint goes a long way due to the high color content

ScaleNut
12-17-2008, 01:16 PM
Annother thing that will help is don't go to scale model airplane sites and try to follow those guidelines. it's a different world.

rocketeers generaly like large areas of solid color with the occasional flame, stripes, fades ect..

plastic modelers are using minute amounts of paint , in very light patterns.
most plasic modelers are using paints that require heavy thinning and messy cleanup.
it would take a month to paint a midpower rocket like that and it would not be very pretty.

go out and buy one bottle of AB paint like Createx(just try it), install a large tip, crank up to 35 psi.
apply the paint in several light layers. air dry each layer with a hair dryer(it only takes a couple minutes) do not spray a thick heavy layer or several wet layers, it will take 2 weeks to dry.

even by spraying light layers and drying inbetween it will be done faster and cured much faster than a spraycan paint. as I mentioned I can complete multipule maskings and sprayings in one session.

ScaleNut
12-17-2008, 01:27 PM
sorry one more thing.
if you do try acrylics like createx, understand that the paint drys to a matte finish.
acrylics have to be clearcoated they are fragile by themselves.

the reason they go on matte is because the matte finish will capture and reflect more light under a clearcoat than a gloss paint. this brings out a depth and brilliance to the color that you can't achieve with a spraycan.

look at the auto painting process for example...the paints are not super glossy because of the paint infact they are typically not glossy at all. it's the clearcoat that provides the gloss
the awesome colors on cars these days are largely due to using this technique of the paintcoat being more light reflective

you can mix Future with acrylics to try and get a more gloss finish but I've found it to be inferior to simply spraying a glosscote(or future ) after the color.

I apologise for creating a thread takeover, would it be ok to just start a new thread and people can discuss airbrushing, ask questions, help others out? is there enough interest?

tbzep
12-17-2008, 02:41 PM
Scalenut, your last few posts need to be stickied in the Techniques section! Scott, what do you think?

BTW, I bought a couple of airbrushes when Badger had the big clearance sale a year or so ago, but I haven't gotten around to learning to use them. I got two thinking that I might buy a can of automotive lacquer primer and dedicate one to that use.

Mark II
12-17-2008, 02:57 PM
Scalenut, your last few posts need to be stickied in the Techniques section! Scott, what do you think?

BTW, I bought a couple of airbrushes when Badger had the big clearance sale a year or so ago, but I haven't gotten around to learning to use them. I got two thinking that I might buy a can of automotive lacquer primer and dedicate one to that use.
I agree; this information is very helpful. I have thought from time to time about going to airbrushing, but I didn't know where to even begin.

Question: can you paint fine details, like stripes and roll patterns, with it? If so, do you need a particular kind of airbrush for that? From the little that I have read about it, I got the idea that some brands and models of airbrushes were best for fine detail work, while other brands and models worked best for covering broad areas.

Mark \\.

Ltvscout
12-17-2008, 03:04 PM
Scalenut, your last few posts need to be stickied in the Techniques section! Scott, what do you think?
I asked Buzz to do this when he got a chance.

micromeister
12-17-2008, 03:47 PM
Scalenut, your last few posts need to be stickied in the Techniques section! Scott, what do you think?

BTW, I bought a couple of airbrushes when Badger had the big clearance sale a year or so ago, but I haven't gotten around to learning to use them. I got two thinking that I might buy a can of automotive lacquer primer and dedicate one to that use.


Just remember if you use your airbrush with solvent based anything, don't try to go back to waterbased materials. you'll have fisheye and oil based problems beyond belief.
The better 2/3rds and I have 5 or 6 air brushes between us, both with a couple decided for oil based products and others for acrylics, water and bulletin colors. Last year we both got a detail gravity feed gun that has idled just about all our bulk color airbursh use. these things are Wonderful for basecoating and all kinds of Model rocket work.
Hope this helps a little

ScaleNut
12-17-2008, 04:06 PM
Question: can you paint fine details, like stripes and roll patterns, with it? If so, do you need a particular kind of airbrush for that? From the little that I have read about it, I got the idea that some brands and models of airbrushes were best for fine detail work, while other brands and models worked best for covering broad areas.

Yes ,
airbrushes come in lots of flavors ,some do certain things better than others.
the good thing is you don't need a high dollar precision instrument to paint rockets
I have 4 airbrushes ,(I also went crazy at the Badger blowout and grabbed 2 really nice ones.)
however,I hardly use them because they are geared to really fine work. and I mostly paint rockets not graphic illustration, touch up photos, or build 1/72 scale luftwaffe aircraft

my workhorse is a Passche H, single action . it's more a multipurpose and cheap.
they can be picked up for roughly $25 on the internet or a craft/hobby store.
I also use a Passche vl ,it does the same but is also good for small detail and it sprays a little better, smoother. the downside is I have to take it apart to "deep clean" it.

the single action only has a tip to remove to clean when necessary
both can accept a color cup or plug in a bottle.

airbrushing stripes and roll patterns are no different than when using a spraycan.
they will have to be masked off than sprayed as usual.unless it's a pattern where you want a fuzzy or faded line, like a camo effect.

there are benefits actually , you don't have to mask off everything. I often paint seperate areas with no more than a couple strips of masking tape because the airbrush can be dialed down to spray within a very small area yet cover nicely. overspray is not a big issue.
annother benefit is because AB paint goes on in such a fine thin mist, tape bleed is a rarity.

my suggestion is to look for airbrushes that have siphon feed(bottles).
you can empty a little color cup really fast.
the models that accept both are even better .you can do some amazing color fades with the little cup.

ScaleNut
12-17-2008, 04:27 PM
I agree with Micro, a touch up gun is a good step up, when you get to the 4"
dia range, you can really lay down some paint.

OK,something about basecoating/primer.

I don't use an airbrush to prime or basecoat an entire rocket.
this is where spraycans work great.

primer is too high in solids and size of pigment to be airbrush friendly
automotive primer is superior to any airbrush primer, you won't find much airbrush sandable primer ( I haven't seen any)
plus I'm not worried about the finish of primer because I am going to sand it .
canned primer is the choice for me

I always basecoat my rockets with a spray of (krylon) gloss white (or black)
it shows every imperfection if I want to go anal on the finish
it provides a smooth clean white(or) black canvas to paint and nothing brings out colors like a white basecoat.
also if you like to wetsand ...paint is the best surface. wetsanding primer is often a waste of time unless you are capable of spraying a perfect coat of paint from a can with zero flaws or blushing on top of it. plus primer is absorbent...it 's risky to get it wet over a paper substrate.. if it's a fibergalss tube .. no problem.

I let spraycans do the "grunt work"
than hook up the airbrush.

luke strawwalker
12-18-2008, 09:59 AM
I use Wal-Mart paint almost exclusively, and have good results; any weakness in my finishing work is my fault and not theirs.

Yep, second that Solo... Nothing wrong with the W/M cheapy paint... except it doesn't come in many colors...

I like their primer too... gray is a lighter primer, and I like the red for hi-dep stuff... couple good coats and a nice wet sanding and I can actually make the PRIMER shine!!!

The price is right too.. :) OL JR :)

luke strawwalker
12-18-2008, 10:08 AM
ok I have lurked quite a while now but I have to put a rant down on this one.


I have painted nearly all of my rockets with an airbrush and have none of the issues mentioned.

I can easily spray at the volume(and more) of a spraycan
no mess
watercleanup in a few minutes(just spray water thru)
no bad fumes
no issues with blushing, cold weather ,humidity,heat
can mix colors to an exact match( for scale models)
cheaper
no layering of paint dust on everything
I have to really go crazy to get a run in the finish
quality airbrush paint color is designed to be deep and brilliant under clearcoat
unlimited supply of colors
acrylics can handle just about any brand or type of clear, no compatabillity issues
acrylics can go over nearly any brand or type of paint ,no compatability issues

with Createx I have never had to mix one drop of thinner, not in 4 years of airbrushing , it sprays perfect strait from the bottle . no thinning

usually I plug right into the bottle the other end into the compressor and spray
I can mask and spray several colors in one session.

I use the color cup for small amounts , the bottle for large amounts and have sprayed 4" dia rockets (including extensive masking, decals and clearcoat) in one session

I can create finishes that one can only dream of with a spraycan

my rockets have won beauty and scale contests, and fly just as well as spraycan models

did it take some trail and error and practices ?-yes
was it worth the effort ?-absolutely !

I don't look down on people for using spraycans.
I take pride in my building, I give the same effort to my finishing.

all I can ask here is...don't knock it just because you can't or don't want to airbrush a rocket, it's not an instant gratification thing but It works and it does the job very well.
I have a garage full of rockets to prove it

I have read post after post on many forums over the years about problems with painting rockets.
I can say that for me airbrushing has eliminated 99% of them

That's good to know and this topic is worth a thread in itself...

I've only used rattle cans for painting rockets so far, but I bought a cheapy airbrush at TSC just to give it a try... I've got a full farm shop at my disposal with an industrial compressor and have sprayed several cars and TONS of farm equipment, including combines and cotton pickers the size of a small house. (Nothing like hanging one handed on the edge of the slanted roof of a cotton picker basket with a spray gun in the other hand crouched over painting the edge when an F-4 Phantom flies over just shy of supersonic at treetop level, but that's another story! :) ) I've been thinking about getting a touch-up gun for smaller jobs than breaking out the big spray gun, and for rocket stuff too, to cover ground faster than an airbrush...

Main thing that has kept on rattle cans so far is just the cleanup issues... seems like I spend as much time cleaning the gun after doing a paintjob on the farm as I did doing the paint job itself... goes with the territory I guess...

What kind of equipment are you using?? Inquiring minds want to know... :) OL JR :)

luke strawwalker
12-18-2008, 10:34 AM
I agree with Micro, a touch up gun is a good step up, when you get to the 4"
dia range, you can really lay down some paint.

OK,something about basecoating/primer.

I don't use an airbrush to prime or basecoat an entire rocket.
this is where spraycans work great.

primer is too high in solids and size of pigment to be airbrush friendly
automotive primer is superior to any airbrush primer, you won't find much airbrush sandable primer ( I haven't seen any)
plus I'm not worried about the finish of primer because I am going to sand it .
canned primer is the choice for me

I always basecoat my rockets with a spray of (krylon) gloss white (or black)
it shows every imperfection if I want to go anal on the finish
it provides a smooth clean white(or) black canvas to paint and nothing brings out colors like a white basecoat.
also if you like to wetsand ...paint is the best surface. wetsanding primer is often a waste of time unless you are capable of spraying a perfect coat of paint from a can with zero flaws or blushing on top of it. plus primer is absorbent...it 's risky to get it wet over a paper substrate.. if it's a fibergalss tube .. no problem.

I let spraycans do the "grunt work"
than hook up the airbrush.

That's interesting... I've been using the Walmart house brand Colorplace 97 cent a can (mostly gray but red for hi-dep) primer and wet sanding it on regular paper tube and balsa finned rocket (papered fins and some just with Elmers wood filler) and haven't had ANY problems from water...

I sand with at least two progressively finer grades, and then a real fine paper if needed to get any scratches or other detectable imperfections out before I prime... I tack the rocket off with a cloth and then run a clean fingertip over every square inch feeling for imperfections, and I also will hold it up to a light and observe the reflected 'glint' for imperfections... I don't go super anal before priming, but the smoother you get it before priming the easier it is to prime. I usually put two or three coats of rattlecan primer on, let it dry overnight, then do a nice wetsanding on it with 800 or 1000 paper. If I had some scratches or something that I decided to fill with primer and put a heavy primer coat on, sometimes I'll dry sand the primer first with 600 paper to get most of it off... and reprime any spots that need attention if need be, and then wet sand it all out. What I do is, I keep a bowl of water handy and an old towel that I rest the rocket on, and wash/rub my paper in the water to release the paint dust, and then usually slap my paper gently against the bowl side to get most of the water off before returning to the rocket. If the paper is too dry it won't sand well, but I don't want water running everywhere either... usually if I need a bit of water I just dip a finger in and drip it on the area I'm sanding... I wash the paper about every minute or so... watch as you sand-- the water on the surface starts turning into a thin watery 'mud' as you sand and liberate more primer, and when that 'mud' starts to thicken up, it's time to wash the paper and wipe the sanding mud off the tube (usually keep a paper towel handy for that)

Using this method has worked well for me and if you really work at it for a couple hours you can actually make the primer shine just like a color layer... what I like about it is, if you put the color layer on light and even in a couple coats or so, it will lay down beautifully and you don't even have to color sand... it will shine like a new dime all on it's own... :)

Good luck! OL JR :)

scigs30
12-18-2008, 01:44 PM
Styme, I am glad you posted your technique of painting rockets with an airbrush and acrylics. I exclusively use an airbrush when painting scale plastic models and balsa flying models. The airbrush gives a real nice paint job for these projects that I know I can not achieve with spray paint. Using an airbrush does take time, patience and practice. Don't think you can go out and buy a kit with immediate results. I use spray cans on rockets since I am not going for the same looks as a plastic job. I like the convenience and ease of using spray cans. I only use Lacquer based paints since they dry fast and produce a nice smooth finish. Unfortunately Krylon has stopped making lacquer based spray paint. Car paints are lacquer based but they are pricey. I have never had any luck with Enamel spray paints so if this was my only option. I would start using acrylics with my air gun. If you want a paint thats not as harmful as lacquers, then definitely go with acrylics. The main point here, there are many options to painting.

ScaleNut
12-18-2008, 07:25 PM
yeah...I agree that airbrushing isn't necessary to build beautifull looking rockets.
I've seen what can be done with cans at every launch I go to.
when it all boils down for me,It's about flying rockets and having a good time.

I also feel that sanding primer coats can yield great results .
my only comment is to use caution on paper based rockets , it's not hard to sand into cardboard and create a bugger or two. buggers can be a pain because if you just try to paint over it ,, it will show like a sore thumb, just use caution(or alot of primer).

Airbrushing can be a great alternative to the norm , and I see more and more of it at launches. I wouldn't say that airbrushing is superior to any other means. just that you can do more with it than cans and it's not hard once you understand the basics.

I enjoy the heck out of the painting part now, It's like the final touch to a new rocket for me
all the filling and sanding is done .I used to dread painting rockets and would usually have 5-6 bare or primed rockets setting around .. now I look forward to it.

scigs30
12-18-2008, 08:12 PM
Here is another little trick with painting with an airbrush and acrylics. If you are painting a rocket that requires a lot of fine masking, go ahead and paint the lighter base coat with the Lacquer spray paint. After that dries, one day. Go ahead and mask the rocket. Now use the airbrush and spray the darker color with acrylic paint to color the rest of the rocket. This will produce a crispier line and you can control the paint. Now for the best part.....If you have a little slop over or oops with the acrylic paint. You can simply wipe it away with a cotton swab and mineral spirits, walaa nice crisp line without messing up the light color of laquer. I used this technique a lot on my plastic models.

RodWhip
12-20-2008, 04:44 PM
Who knows what a really good gloss (or dull) clearcoat works well over Createx?

I tried Createx gloss clearcoat through my airbrush and it worked okay but it wasn't smooth at all.

Does Future work well in an airbrush? It seems almost too thick.

Bob Kaplow
12-20-2008, 05:15 PM
Here is another little trick with painting with an airbrush and acrylics. If you are painting a rocket that requires a lot of fine masking, go ahead and paint the lighter base coat with the Lacquer spray paint. After that dries, one day. Go ahead and mask the rocket. Now use the airbrush and spray the darker color with acrylic paint to color the rest of the rocket. This will produce a crispier line and you can control the paint. Now for the best part.....If you have a little slop over or oops with the acrylic paint. You can simply wipe it away with a cotton swab and mineral spirits, walaa nice crisp line without messing up the light color of laquer. I used this technique a lot on my plastic models.

Lacquer on plastic???

scigs30
12-21-2008, 10:56 PM
I like using Acrylics on my plastic models. The only thing I noticed is that Acrylics don't come out as smooth as enamels or Lacquers. What I normally do is wet sand the acrylics when dried and top coat.

jtaylor
12-23-2008, 05:37 PM
What is the difference between acrylic, enamel and lacquer?

Bob Kaplow
12-23-2008, 07:59 PM
What is the difference between acrylic, enamel and lacquer?

I'm sure there is more to it, but acrylics are thinned with water, enamels with mineral spirits, and lacquer with lacquer thinner / acetone.

ScaleNut
12-27-2008, 12:09 AM
here's a few rockets using createx

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/Arapahoe%20F/arapahoef4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/Astron%20Scrambler/P1010028.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/F-104%20Starfighter/predecal2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/Fat%20Boy%204%20x%2018mm/finishedflames.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/Fat%20Boy%2029mm/FBclearside.jpg

ScaleNut
12-27-2008, 12:09 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/Fat%20Boy%2029mm/FBfinhue.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/Interceptor%2018mm/P1010001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/Loc%20Onyx/onyxstripe.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/Minie%20Magg/MM2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/Minie%20Magg/MM1.jpg

ScaleNut
12-27-2008, 12:10 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/Patriot%20M-104/Patriot1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/Rocketflite%20FW%20Glider/clear3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/Rocketflite%20FW%20Glider/clear4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/TEMP/redmax.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/TEMP/greengoblin.jpg

ScaleNut
12-27-2008, 12:10 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/TEMP/final.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/TLP%20Sidewinder/front.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/TLP%20Sidewinder/back.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/V2%2038mm/MSHV2ready.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/V2%2038mm/nosetail.jpg

ScaleNut
12-27-2008, 11:49 AM
Who knows what a really good gloss (or dull) clearcoat works well over Createx?

I tried Createx gloss clearcoat through my airbrush and it worked okay but it wasn't smooth at all.

Does Future work well in an airbrush? It seems almost too thick.

the airbrush acrylic clearcoats are terrible for rockets , but you can use any clear or flat you want to
I've used everything from Future to common spray clears to automotive urethanes(and everything in between)

Future is actually very runny , don't thin it ,spray it strait from the bottle.
spray in several >light<coats it takes quite a few coats to get a glasslike surface.

you can mix some acrylic color(tiny amount)in it to make a candy coat over a silver or gold basecoat. very cool effect

RodWhip
01-01-2009, 08:37 PM
ScaleNut.... Wow... Awesome pictures!!

What did you use to get the purple on the bottom of the FatBoy? Is it "Irridescent Purple"?

rokitflite
01-01-2009, 11:19 PM
Ah Ha! Now I know who Scale Nut is! :D

o1d_dude
01-02-2009, 03:18 AM
Beautiful birds, Scalenut. Your mad paint skillz are truly worthy of the "Craftsman" moniker.

I particularly like the Red Max with inverted color scheme. Bold!

motley16
01-09-2009, 10:15 PM
wow dude the fat boy rockets are insane. the flames are great. the kits in all are works of art. thanks for showing off your artistic skills dude. :) :)

mrhemi1971
02-08-2009, 06:40 AM
I want to know who makes that F-104, is that a kit?

Beautiful paint work too..I've been using airbrushes and paint spray guns for over 25 years of painting custom cars and motorcycles , I mostly use automotive paints because of durability and ease of getting whatever color I want. I know alot of people may get intimidated by the cleanup of using paint equipment, but in reality, the cleanup is not bad at all. The results you get far outweigh the tiny bit of work you have to do afterwards.

I highly recommend that if you're on the fence, jump in you'll love it!

MarkB.
04-04-2009, 10:48 PM
What with this being an airbrush article, I thought I would add some actual airbrush info and pictures.

The first picture below shows three different types of airbrush. All three should be attached to an air compressor or other device to provide constant pressure between 10-40 lbs. They can spray oil- or water-based paints.

On top is an Iwata HP-C dual-action (about $175). The trigger on top is depressed to allow the compressed air to flow. The trigger is then moved rearward to admit an increasing amount of paint, which is gravity fed from the cup on top, into the internal airflow . The user continues to adjust the amount of paint by moving the trigger fore and aft. The spray pattern is controlled by adjusting the needle valve in the front of the brush. The cup doesn't hold much paint, but it's enough to spray a small rocket. This is a mighty fancy rig for spraying rockets.

In the middle is a Badger 200 single-action (about $75). The trigger controls airflow; the amount of paint flow is not adjustable during spraying. When the trigger is depressed, airflow passes over an internal tube leading to the paint reservoir lowering the air pressure which syphons the paint out of the jar and into the stream of air. The paint and air mix internally and spray out through the needle valve. The paint pattern can be adjusted at the needle or the needle itself replaced with a course (smaller) needle to allow more paint flow. This is a great all-purpose airbrush. This one is about 20 years old.

On the bottom is a Badger spray gun, model and price unknown but roughly equivalent to a Badger 250 (about $30). I've had this one for more than 25 years. Depressing the trigger causes air to flow over the top of the tube leading to the paint reservoir, lowering the pressure and causing the paint to flow into the airstream. Air and paint mix externally in a relatively broad, circular pattern. There is no adjustable needle valve for the spray pattern. This is a straight replacement for a spray can and is all you need for 95% of all rocket painting.

The second picture shows some handy accessories including a small compressor, which starts at about $75 and goes up (quickly) from there. The alternatives are a bottle of Propel compressed gas or an airtank or even a large inner tube and the proper adaptor to fit your airbrush.

Also shown is a large reservoir bottle for the Badgers which holds several ounces of paint and is perfect for larger models (like spraying white on a Semroc Saturn 1b). I keep a number of big and small bottles and lids handy for any project. Custom colors can be stored in these bottles.

The last little chingadera (Spanish for "thing of unknown name") is a ceramic cleaning bottle. You spray your remaining paint and cleaning fluid into this filtered bottle during the clean-up or color change process. I use only acrylics and nettoyant acrylic cleaner or water so my clean-up is relatively non-toxic. Unless I have to transfer a lot of paint back into the original container, I can change colors in less than 2 minutes and clean-up in less than 5.

Once you've done it a few times, basic airbrushing is very easy. It will allow you to use colors that are simply not available in spray can, like Delta blue or the dark red original Ferrari color. I can spray on Future floorpolish clear coats that are dry by the time I'm spraying the other end of the rocket. If you're not going to be spraying swimsuits on supermodels or something equally exotic, you don't need a super fancy airbrush. And the best part is, with proper cleaning and minor maintenance, they will last forever.

Gus
04-04-2009, 11:46 PM
Guys,

Would you please post a few pics of your "spray station". Do you do this indoors? Do you have a paint booth? What do you do about overspray?

Thanks

MarkB.
04-05-2009, 11:14 AM
Gus,

I use the cardboard box that a case of Gatorade comes in. I spray at low pressure (about 12 lbs. ) on our kitchen island or in the summer, in the garage. There is little overspray if you have the needle set correctly. I wipe the counter with 409 when I'm done in case anything wasn't caught in the box. Have I been successful? Well, I have no complaints from my wife. . . .

But I only use flat acrylics which are water soluable when drying.

dbryantphoto
10-21-2009, 11:32 AM
what's your technique for masking off the body tube to airbrush the flames? i can't figure this one out. thanks.


here's a few rockets using createx

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/Arapahoe%20F/arapahoef4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/Astron%20Scrambler/P1010028.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/F-104%20Starfighter/predecal2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/Fat%20Boy%204%20x%2018mm/finishedflames.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/stymye/Fat%20Boy%2029mm/FBclearside.jpg

Brain
12-19-2010, 01:26 PM
what's your technique for masking off the body tube to airbrush the flames? i can't figure this one out. thanks.
One name for it is 'frisket' paper. It usually comes in rolls from places like Dick Blick or other major art supply outfits, and it is basically a clear plastic low-adhesive sheet on a wax paper backing that you can cut shapes from for masking.
I imagine some people might use contact paper, but you better make sure it won't stick to your previous paint layers.

chrism
12-19-2010, 01:36 PM
Great job and good advice Scalenut. I too like to build scale models and have used some airbrush techniques when painting my rockets. I also like the low odor and easy water clean-up that acrylic paints provide.

Brain
12-19-2010, 04:51 PM
I used to do a lot of airbrushing (space art, decorative interiors/exteriors, automobile art) and I am familiar with Paasche units. I have alos used Aztek brushes, but I'm not sure how they'd fare with enamels and such, being that they are (were?) made of plastic (I used acrylics). Haven't done anything in a long time, but I still have my brushes.

Rockets may be a good reason to bust it all out again... :cool:

chrism
12-19-2010, 05:02 PM
I used to do a lot of airbrushing (space art, decorative interiors/exteriors, automobile art) and I am familiar with Paasche units. I have alos used Aztek brushes, but I'm not sure how they'd fare with enamels and such, being that they are (were?) made of plastic (I used acrylics). Haven't done anything in a long time, but I still have my brushes.

Rockets may be a good reason to bust it all out again... :cool:
Aztek sells nozzles that are made to spray acrylic paint. I use the tan one on my single action and have had no problems with clogging. Check out Testors.com for more info.

cas2047
12-19-2010, 05:38 PM
OK I completely missed this thread the first time around. There is a TON of great information in this thread.

I'm hoping it motivates me to finally pickup an airbrush and compressor to give it a try. It looks like for 99% of the rocket painting I would need to do all I need is the cheaper and simpler airbrush.

jeffyjeep
12-19-2010, 11:44 PM
Awesome work! I LOVE the Rokitflite Fake Wulf and the FedEx Interceptor!

cas2047
12-20-2010, 07:22 AM
Awesome work! I LOVE the Rokitflite Fake Wulf and the FedEx Interceptor!

That's funny, I like them all, but those were the two that really jumped out for me too! :D

o1d_dude
12-20-2010, 01:42 PM
If Rokitflite gears up for another run of FakeWulf's, I highly recommend getting at least one.

Wotta kit. ***** (five star rating), OD sez check it out.

dyaugo
12-20-2010, 09:34 PM
ok I have lurked quite a while now but I have to put a rant down on this one.


I have painted nearly all of my rockets with an airbrush and have none of the issues mentioned.

I can easily spray at the volume(and more) of a spraycan
no mess
watercleanup in a few minutes(just spray water thru)
no bad fumes
no issues with blushing, cold weather ,humidity,heat
can mix colors to an exact match( for scale models)
cheaper
no layering of paint dust on everything
I have to really go crazy to get a run in the finish
quality airbrush paint color is designed to be deep and brilliant under clearcoat
unlimited supply of colors
acrylics can handle just about any brand or type of clear, no compatabillity issues
acrylics can go over nearly any brand or type of paint ,no compatability issues

with Createx I have never had to mix one drop of thinner, not in 4 years of airbrushing , it sprays perfect strait from the bottle . no thinning

usually I plug right into the bottle the other end into the compressor and spray
I can mask and spray several colors in one session.

I use the color cup for small amounts , the bottle for large amounts and have sprayed 4" dia rockets (including extensive masking, decals and clearcoat) in one session

I can create finishes that one can only dream of with a spraycan

my rockets have won beauty and scale contests, and fly just as well as spraycan models

did it take some trail and error and practices ?-yes
was it worth the effort ?-absolutely !

I don't look down on people for using spraycans.
I take pride in my building, I give the same effort to my finishing.

all I can ask here is...don't knock it just because you can't or don't want to airbrush a rocket, it's not an instant gratification thing but It works and it does the job very well.
I have a garage full of rockets to prove it

I have read post after post on many forums over the years about problems with painting rockets.
I can say that for me airbrushing has eliminated 99% of them

I enjoyed reading this post. I paint a lot of my rockets using spray cans and to be honest it's getting old quick and I would like to learn how to put a better finish on my rockets. I mean they turn out nice don't get me wrong and I take the time to wet sand the finish and spray clear, but I think that learning to use an airbrush would provide a lot more opportunity and allow someone to really put on some unique graphics and more precise paint job, especially when painting scale models. Also it seems as though the quality is more consistent than spray cans. I can't count the number of times I went to paint a rocket and mid way through the paint starts coming out in droplets. I've been using Duplicolor for my paint, but you're limited to color...with an airbrush kit it seems you have a lot more variety.

The thing is this..I never used an airbrush and I wouldn't know where to begin.

Can you offer any advice on books or DVD's I can purchase or the type of equipment you would recommend. I went to and airbrush website and I was lost, because it seems there are so many types out there to chose from? It's kind of intimidating..

http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/mask.aspx

jeffyjeep
12-20-2010, 09:40 PM
If Rokitflite gears up for another run of FakeWulf's, I highly recommend getting at least one.

Wotta kit. ***** (five star rating), OD sez check it out.
Yes. I would like to have two more Fake Wulfs (Wulves?) and another Odyssey.

Brain
12-21-2010, 12:42 PM
There really isn't much high-end arcana where it comes to using airbrushes for rocket painting, especially if you use the bigger ones (like the Paasche mentioned earlier) that give a lot of coverage. They 1) definitely give you more control over the application (or what passes for applying basic coats of paint) and 2) you can mix your own colors all day. True, applying masks and such are another factor, but once they're on it's back to applying coats of paint. The kind of high-end artwork you see with airbrushes (space art, auto art, fine art, etc.) is a far cry from BAR needs - unless you want to get fancy!

chrism
12-21-2010, 01:15 PM
I enjoyed reading this post. I paint a lot of my rockets using spray cans and to be honest it's getting old quick and I would like to learn how to put a better finish on my rockets. I mean they turn out nice don't get me wrong and I take the time to wet sand the finish and spray clear, but I think that learning to use an airbrush would provide a lot more opportunity and allow someone to really put on some unique graphics and more precise paint job, especially when painting scale models. Also it seems as though the quality is more consistent than spray cans. I can't count the number of times I went to paint a rocket and mid way through the paint starts coming out in droplets. I've been using Duplicolor for my paint, but you're limited to color...with an airbrush kit it seems you have a lot more variety.

The thing is this..I never used an airbrush and I wouldn't know where to begin.

Can you offer any advice on books or DVD's I can purchase or the type of equipment you would recommend. I went to and airbrush website and I was lost, because it seems there are so many types out there to chose from? It's kind of intimidating..

http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/mask.aspx
Check out some resources from Kalmbach Publishing the parent of FineScale Modeler magazine. They put out how to airbrush magazines. They are designed for scale modeling, but the hints can be adapted to model rocketry.

Mopower71
10-20-2011, 08:32 PM
Just came across this older thread. Good reading. I had thought about using my airbrush, a really old Badger single, but did not think the acrylic paint would be the right type of paint for the paper/balsa. I have used it for doing my clear slot car bodies.

So if I get this correctly, you primer as usual with rattle can primer, then put a base of white or black rattle can or acrylic airbrush, then color via airbrush, then rattle can clear.

Is there any bad affects to putting decals over the water based paint, before it is clear coated?
I would think as long as it is dry, it should be okay.

As far as compressors, I use my 30 gal. shop compressor and just regulate it down. I haven't used a water separator, But , I didn't use it this year where it never seemed to stop raining here in NY, since spring. I probably would have needed it, as everything is so damp.

Couple pictures of one of the bodies, the stripes were just taped off before the purple went on, and then painted after. It is painted from the inside, with a white final coat. I can't find a picture of my wizard, which is done in the same color scheme, just in rattle can

Wayne's World
10-20-2011, 09:08 PM
So if I get this correctly, you primer as usual with rattle can primer, then put a base of white or black rattle can or acrylic airbrush, then color via airbrush, then rattle can clear.


No. If your color coat is acrylic, then anything above that must be acrylic as well. If you clearcoat with a spraycan, then you will get a crinkle in your finish. Use Future on top of an acrylic colorcoat.


Is there any bad affects to putting decals over the water based paint, before it is clear coated?
I would think as long as it is dry, it should be okay.

As long as your acrylic color coat is glossy, you will have no problems with decals, because the decals, while lacquer based, have completely dried. The decal adhesive that holds them to the color coat is water-based, so the decal will not attack the acrylic paint beneath them.


As far as compressors, I use my 30 gal. shop compressor and just regulate it down. I haven't used a water separator, But , I didn't use it this year where it never seemed to stop raining here in NY, since spring. I probably would have needed it, as everything is so damp.



A water separator has nothing to do with rain, or any atmospheric humidity. A water separator removes water in the delivery line caused by condensation in your air tank caused by the compression of air. When you compress air, it squeezes water out into the tank. The separator traps the water before it goes into the airbrush. Even in the desert, with 0% humidity, you will have condensation inside an air tank.

foamy
10-21-2011, 07:40 AM
No. If your color coat is acrylic, then anything above that must be acrylic as well. If you clearcoat with a spraycan, then you will get a crinkle in your finish. Use Future on top of an acrylic colorcoat....
My experience has been different. I've been using Createx acrylics straight from the bottle with no thinning. I've been clear-coating with enamel with no problems what-so-ever.

Mopower71
10-21-2011, 10:25 AM
My experience has been different. I've been using Createx acrylics straight from the bottle with no thinning. I've been clear-coating with enamel with no problems what-so-ever.
Thats what I gathered after reading through all this. You can use any clear,but the createx doesnt come out well

Marc_G
06-16-2012, 08:31 PM
I just found this thread. Lots of good info and inspiration.

I've been airbrushing since last fall, and really like it. Now that it's warm again, I'm using up my store of spray cans of color coats, but once they are gone I'm going to stick to acrylics.

In case it's of interest to anyone, I tend to prime with Rustoleum auto filler primer if it's warm enough to shoot it. Then either Valspar white spray primer OR Createx's "Auto-Air" Sealer White, which does a good job.

Then I use Createx Wicked Colors line, and sometimes the Auto Air stuff too. The stock Createx didn't work so well the couple times I tried it with clearanced bottles I bought, but I love Wicked Colors and some of the Auto Air stuff. I thin by 10-15% (with the recommended reducer for the paint line) and tend to spray at either ~40 lbs CO2 with the Paasche H #5 tip, or at around 30 lbs with the #3 tip for smaller birds.

I tend to use Valspar High Gloss Clear Lacquer which can be sprayed in the cold (from a warmed can) with good results, or of course when it's warm (but not more than 60% RH or it will blush). Or I use Liquitex High Gloss Varnish from the hobby lobby artists' aisle. Or just Future. Or future with a bit of color mixed in. Sometimes I go wacky.

Anyone reading this, get an airbrush. It's fun and lets you spray in all kinds of weather with an infite range of colors and stuff.

Marc

VonMises
07-31-2012, 08:48 PM
Although my preferred medium is lacquer, I’ve found the airbrush to be an indispensable tool. Like you said, it can remove most of the problems, and with lacquer the biggest problem is getting the paint too heavy. The airbrush is ideal for getting a solid coat of color without the thickness.

I love the fed-ex paint job. Very nice.

Have you tried using a touchup gun? Judging by your airbrush work, I think you’d find a touch-up gun to be useful on larger areas. They cost about the same as a good airbrush, but they require more air volume. Sorry, can’t tell you much about the HVLP guns, I still paint old school.

I’d like to point out however, that not all spray cans are equal. Normally, a finish equal to that of a new car is achievable. As you eluded earlier, if time is taken to prepare the base, it will be reflected in the paint.

VonMises
04-14-2013, 12:09 PM
ok I have lurked quite a while now but I have to put a rant down on this one.
I guess one good rant deserves another.

I have painted nearly all of my rockets with an airbrush and have none of the issues mentioned.

no issues with blushing, cold weather ,humidity,heat
Blushing (lacquer) is only an issue if you don’t know what you’re doing.

can mix colors to an exact match( for scale models) cheaper
Not so fast. Lacquer is available from testors in small quantities.

I have to really go crazy to get a run in the finish
Same with lacquer.

quality airbrush paint color is designed to be deep and brilliant under clearcoat
And automotive paint isn’t? Really? Lol.

unlimited supply of colors
Oh brother.

acrylics can handle just about any brand or type of clear, no compatabillity issues.
Funny, I just lifted a panel of acrylic enamel with acrylic lacquer.

I can create finishes that one can only dream of with a spraycan.
Wow, this just set off my B.S. alarm.

my rockets have won beauty and scale contests, and fly just as well as spraycan models.
Same here. But, I don’t make it a habit of bragging. Nor do I allow my 4-h kids.

did it take some trail and error and practices ?-yes
was it worth the effort ?-absolutely !
Any system does.

I don't look down on people for using spraycans. !
Oh gee, thanks. Really? Like you’re in a position to look down on anyone.

Personally, I encourage others to make the most of anything they want to do. This includes some very stunning brush techniques. What you’ll never hear from me, or anyone in our club, is you can only dream of a good finish with technique A over technique B. Especially when you consider it simply is not true.

I take pride in my building, I give the same effort to my finishing.
And no one esle does?

all I can ask here is...don't knock it just because you can't or don't want to airbrush a rocket, it's not an instant gratification thing but It works and it does the job very well.
No system will deliver instant gratification.

I have read post after post on many forums over the years about problems with painting rockets. I can say that for me airbrushing has eliminated 99% of them
And for you that’s fine. In fact I hope others find your advice useful. But to claim “I can create finishes that one can only dream of with a spraycan.” is complete nonsense.

And I can prove it too:

This from a 14 year old girl.
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae166/VonMises/Aerospace/002.jpg

This one really makes the ghost flames “POP”.
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae166/VonMises/Aerospace/FlameJob001.jpg

One of my beaters.
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae166/VonMises/Aerospace/RedMaxReflection.jpg

Bravo52
04-14-2013, 03:08 PM
Dude.....Really?? :rolleyes: Did you go back five years to find something to rant on.... you would have been better off just starting a new thread saying; "hey, look what a 14 year old can do on a desk model."

Besides, there is a little silvering on that decal... enough said.

tbzep
04-15-2013, 08:29 AM
He replied to the same original post in 2012 with positive comments, right above yesterday's bi-polar tirade. :rolleyes:

VonMises
04-21-2013, 11:23 AM
Dude.....Really?? :rolleyes: Did you go back five years to find something to rant on.... you would have been better off just starting a new thread saying; "hey, look what a 14 year old can do on a desk model."

Besides, there is a little silvering on that decal... enough said.

Silvering? Can you be more specific?

Desk model? Really?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFCgkyHt-vA

Enough said indeeed. :rolleyes:

VonMises
04-21-2013, 11:31 AM
He replied to the same original post in 2012 with positive comments, right above yesterday's bi-polar tirade. :rolleyes:

Not at all. In fact I found some useful tidbits of info. My 4-H kids are encouraged to explore techniques, including airbrush, and media that may not be conventional.

However to claim “I can create finishes that one can only dream of with a spraycan” or any other technique or paint, is simply not true. As well as some of the other claims that are untrue.

And yes, I do love the Fed-Ex paint job. I'd like to know more about it.

Why did it take so long to respond in a meaningful way? Well, my life and interests outside of model rocketry doesn’t allow me the time to be here every day, or month for that matter.

Wow, “bi-polar tirade” funny. You know, there’s more to life than spending all day and night on a toy rocket forum from your mother’s basement.

ScaleNut
08-04-2013, 11:28 PM
Quote:
I can create finishes that one can only dream of with a spraycan.

Wow, this just set off my B.S. alarm.

the point of that claim was you can achieve freehand effects that are near impossible with a spray can , such as true flames and other delicate graphics.

but yes I guess I seem a bit boisterous in my postings ,, that was some time ago.

mrmonteith
03-01-2017, 12:23 PM
I got started pretty easily. I bought a double-acting airbrush for like $15 on E-Bay. It's the same as the name brand without paying for the name. The same with the braided hose and filter. So I just use my compressor for airing up tires and larger paint sprayer.

As for getting started look up Expert Village on YouTube. Mike Royall does the videos. They have a ton of how-to videos from simple circles to bubbles, stripes, stipling, you name it. At home I have a whole folder of the videos I saved and used to practice along with. I find coupons for like Michaels and Hobby Lobby etc to get the paints fairly reasonable.

So you can get going fairly inexpensively.

Michael