Krylon not like before due to formula change

[georgegassaway]

Cross post of a message in the Space Modelers Yahoogroup, which seems to explain things pretty well. Whatever you were used to with Krylon before, it's all different now. No longer a lacquer, it is oil-based enamel. You have to re-learn how to use it and what is compatible or not. Or perhaps some other paint(s) will be better for various uses.

- George Gassaway


-------------- "Re: Paint Emergency!!!!!!"

It's no wonder you are having trouble. To begin with, Krylon is no
longer the Krylon you're used to. This is due to the EPA meddling in
the product. I spent the last two weeks wasting money and trying to
solve a wrinkling/lifting problem (very similar to your reptile skin
appearance), including at least seven calls to Krylon. Desperation was
setting in since I was modifying a large model I built two years ago
for a land developer. Used Krylon at that time and had no problem and
went into this project using exactly the same Krylon paint so that
everything would be compatible. I thought. Boy, was I wrong!

Without making this story way too long, here it is in a nutshell. Up
until a year ago, the Krylon that we've all been used to was an
acrylic lacquer. Dries in 12 minutes and can be recoated without any
worry relative to the previous coat reacting. Unfortunately, the EPA
in their wisdom came up with regulations that resulted in Krylon
reformulating their old, reliable acrylic lacquer into an oil-based
enamel. Not just an ordinary enamel but an oil-based enamel. This has
several very interesting and very bad results where the modelbuilder
is concerned.

You now have a window of application, followed by an extended drying
period before it can be resprayed. The instructions on the back of
the can are very specific and MUST be followed to the letter. To begin
with, spray a light coat, wait five minutes and spray another light
coat. Repeat the process until you have the desired coverage. Keep in
mind that all spraying MUST be completed within one hour or the
underlying coats will wrinkle and lift. Not MAY but WILL. After that
one hour time period, you MUST wait a minimum of 24 hours before
applying another color coat or the previous coats that you thought
were dry will...you guessed it....wrinkle and lift. Do be aware that
24 hours in the MINIMUM waiting period. Depending on how many previous
coats you applied in the one hour time frame, you may have to wait
more than 24 hours to apply additional coats.

Although the instructions don't indicate the need for a base coat,
this stuff is so weird that I would definitely recommend a primer
base. However, even the primer is an oil-based enamel with the same
window of application and drying time. Be that as it may, be sure to
used the Krylon primer so that everything is compatible.

Finally, because you're dealing with an oil-based enamel, plan on an
extended painting session and multiple coats in order to prevent runs.
Because it doesn't have the 'tooth' or grab of acrylic lacquer,
applying enough paint to attain an opaque coat...especially where
white is concerned... white is concerned...<wbr>is guaranteed to result in

Oh, one last comment. According to Krylon, changing the formula from
an acrylic lacquer to an oil-based enamel made the product more user
friendly for the average consumer. I don't know about the average
consumer, but it did just the opposite where the modelbuilder is
concerned.

By the way, if you're still longing for the old Krylon acrylic
lacquer, it can still be found. As an industrial paint. Order it from
industrial suppliers in six-can quantities and use it over Dupi-Color
Gray Primer and Filler that, as far as I know, can only be found in
NAPA Auto Supply stores.

Don't get the idea that you can find another brand of spray paint that
will do the same job with a shorter wait time. ALL of them have
suffered at the hands of the EPA. The window of application ranges
from one to four hours and the wait time to recoat can be as long as
two to seven DAYS. You can also forget picking up pure lacquer
automotive paint that used to made by DuPont and available from
automotive paint stores. DuPont doesn't make it any more. Thank the
EPA for that as well.

Hope some of this helps.

Richard Marmo, IPMS/USA #2
The Modeler's Weapons Shop
Scale Publications
Modelbuilding Services by Richard Marmo

[Solomoriah]

It's an issue we've dealt with a lot. All new rattlecan paint follows these new rules. I don't know about Krylon, but I can attest to the need to let other brands dry at least a week before applying tape or recoating (after the initial application hour has passed). Absolutely do not put tape on until a week has passed, or you'll pull the base coat paint off when you remove the tape.

Cheap sandable primers such as Wal-Mart or Dollar General's house brand seem to work fine with just a day's drying time. I've been able to sand after a few hours drying time.

[blackshire]

This "revoltin' development" has re-invigorated my interest in water-based acrylic paints (which I haven't yet tried because I'm still saving up for a good air compressor and an airbrush). Both G. Harry Stine's and Peter Alway's books give acrylic paints very high marks.

Having to spray-paint indoors using a spray booth during the winter, their lack of fumes is a big plus to me. Can they be used pretty much like spray-on enamel ("dusting" on a white base coat followed by several thin, light color coats, then spraying on clear gloss or clear flat to protect the decals)?

[tbzep]

Can they be used pretty much like spray-on enamel ("dusting" on a white base coat followed by several thin, light color coats, then spraying on clear gloss or clear flat to protect the decals)?

There's an Airbrush Techniques sticky at the top of the Building Techniques section that has lots of good info in it.

[blackshire]

There's an Airbrush Techniques sticky at the top of the Building Techniques section that has lots of good info in it.

Thank you. I saw it just after I posted the question. *sigh* I may try it using propellant cans (cheaper than a compressor when used in small quantities) with an airbrush to get the hang of the technique.

[ghrocketman]

I'd rather use the awful new Krylon than ANY water-based acrylic nonsense.

One of the main reasons why I just stick to good old fashioned traditional Aero Gloss/Sig/Brodak butyrate dope out of my airbrush for most rocket finishing is that the stinkin' VOC rules by the EPA keep changing.
Don't even get me started on "Greeniefornia" that seems to think they get to make their own environmental rules for everything including VOCs.
This idiocy causes rattle-can paint makers to keep changing formulas.
I think the only "enamel" that has not changed over the years is "Testor's" which only comes in pitifully small OVERLY EXPENSIVE cans. If I shoot rattle can enamel I use Testors, Vintage Pactra 'namel, or Rust-Oleum.

In my book, NOTHING lays down as nice a finish as good old fashioned, loaded with volatile organic solvents, Butyrate Dope.

Guess which gov't agency, out of the many I dislike, I like the least ?
Most "greenies" just love me.
One of the few things that I think the Bush administration got right was it's environmental policy & policy toward California.

[Bob Kaplow]

Whatever your old favorite variety of paint, expect it to be replaced with some sort of worthless crap due to nanny state regulations.

[jetlag]

I'd rather use the awful new Krylon than ANY water-based acrylic nonsense.

One of the main reasons why I just stick to good old fashioned traditional Aero Gloss/Sig/Brodak butyrate dope out of my airbrush for most rocket finishing is that the stinkin' VOC rules by the EPA keep changing.
Don't even get me started on "Greeniefornia" that seems to think they get to make their own environmental rules for everything including VOCs.
This idiocy causes rattle-can paint makers to keep changing formulas.
I think the only "enamel" that has not changed over the years is "Testor's" which only comes in pitifully small OVERLY EXPENSIVE cans. If I shoot rattle can enamel I use Testors, Vintage Pactra 'namel, or Rust-Oleum.

In my book, NOTHING lays down as nice a finish as good old fashioned, loaded with volatile organic solvents, Butyrate Dope.

Guess which gov't agency, out of the many I dislike, I like the least ?
Most "greenies" just love me.
One of the few things that I think the Bush administration got right was it's environmental policy & policy toward California.

I used to use Dope (alright now, stop it! :rolleyes: ) in my younger years, but it took so many coats to opacity that the model always seemed awfully heavy. Then I discovered airbrushes in 1972 and used them with the Testors, Humbrol (remember those GREAT military flats?), and Pactra enamels.
GH, how many coats would you have to spray, say, of Red dope to get opacity? Perhaps I may need to rethink my ways!! :eek:
Allen

[ghrocketman]

Opacity depends on the color and the base.
Dark colors can use grey, red, or white base primer.
Light colors should only use a white (preferred) or light grey dope-based primer.
Make SURE your primer is lacquer or dope based. Do NOT shoot dope over Kilz or any enamel based primer. It WILL make a mess.
For most dark colors I thin 2 parts dope to 1 part thinner and shoot 2 to 3 light coats then one heavier final wet coat. You only need to wait about 10 minutes between coats as it dries FAST.
For lighter colors it usually works out with one extra light coat before the final wet coat.
Dope does take more coats than "cheapie" enamels but the finish is much better.

[Doug Sams]

Do NOT shoot dope over Kilz or any enamel based primer. It WILL make a mess.

Don't put dope on FnF, either. Makes a huge mess of that, too.

Doug...voice of personal experience...

.

[ghrocketman]

One can apply dope over "Plastic Wood" filler instead of FnF however as it is a "dope/lacquer" based product.
If one wants to use dope, make sure your base materials are compatible.

[kurtschachner]

If one wants to use dope, make sure your base materials are compatible.

Good advice, dude!

[Solomoriah]

Hey, I get good results with the "crappy" alkyd paints. They are just different, that's all. Can't treat 'em like the old stuff, or mix and match old and new.

I am planning to try airbrushing acrylics again, though.

[luke strawwalker]

Hey, I get good results with the "crappy" alkyd paints. They are just different, that's all. Can't treat 'em like the old stuff, or mix and match old and new.

I am planning to try airbrushing acrylics again, though.


I'm with you solo... there's a thread somewhere around here, maybe in the sticky, and there are some BEAUTIFUL, OUTSTANDING paint jobs being done with acrylics...

Like a wise man I once knew said-- it's not the paint it's the painter... OL JR :)

[Solomoriah]

Sometimes, it's the paint.

But learning the ins and outs of each type does help a lot.

[LeeR]

Thank you. I saw it just after I posted the question. *sigh* I may try it using propellant cans (cheaper than a compressor when used in small quantities) with an airbrush to get the hang of the technique.

You may find yourself spending a lot more money than you thought using the propellant cans. I'd invest in a portable air tank first, and find someone with a compressor to fill it. Put a filter style regulator on the output, to adjust to pressure down to pressure required for your airbrush (in the 30-35 psi range, usually). The filter will trap debris and moisture.

I used the cans many years ago, and would occasionally have liquid propellant spewing out of the airbrush. Maybe they are better now, but definitely not any cheaper these days.

[luke strawwalker]

You may find yourself spending a lot more money than you thought using the propellant cans. I'd invest in a portable air tank first, and find someone with a compressor to fill it. Put a filter style regulator on the output, to adjust to pressure down to pressure required for your airbrush (in the 30-35 psi range, usually). The filter will trap debris and moisture.

I used the cans many years ago, and would occasionally have liquid propellant spewing out of the airbrush. Maybe they are better now, but definitely not any cheaper these days.

Setting the can in a pot with some hot tap water in it will help prevent that... :) OL JR :)

[ghrocketman]

I use a spare jet-ski trailer tire/wheel with an adapter and a water trap as my air source for the airbrush.
I tried those propel cans and will use them in a pinch at my cottage for summer building but they are VERY expensive and will spit liquid propellant unless the can is kept in hot water.

[jetlag]

I use a spare jet-ski trailer tire/wheel with an adapter and a water trap as my air source for the airbrush.
I tried those propel cans and will use them in a pinch at my cottage for summer building but they are VERY expensive and will spit liquid propellant unless the can is kept in hot water.

Jerry,
You are just full of good ideas!!
Thanks for that; never knew the technique of warming the can before to calm the bubbling insides. Likewise, I had never thought about using a filled tire as a propellent source, either.
I have always used a small Badger compressor I got some 35 years ago; not enough pressure to spray acrylics well, but fab. for everything else I use! MUST use with a water filter/trap in SC due to the high humidity in Summer.
Allen

[ghrocketman]

I actually have a special "Tire adapter" made by Badger co. just for using tires as a pressure source. Unfortunately, it is my understanding that they have been out of production for some time.
You may be able to find one through the internet on various hobby sites that may have old stock though. Ebay mite have one too. just make SURE that you use a water-trap filter if you do this. The first time I forgot and my dope finish was FULL of white fish-eyes and blushing due to water.

[luke strawwalker]

Ummm... ok. I've used that trick too, pulling air out of a spare tire at 35 PSI to refill my air tank so I can fill a flat tractor tire at 10 PSI. Works ok, but tires don't hold a whole lot of air or much pressure... unless you've got a 10 ply tire that can hold 90 PSI or something, or better yet a semi truck tire that can hold 140 PSI and a WHOLE LOT of air!

Why not just go this route?? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65594 and get it over with?? Buy a couple 98 cent fittings and a hose clamp and convert it over to a dedicated airbrush tank you can refill at any station with air... and you can fill it up to 130 PSI.

Now if you've GOT the special fitting and it's working for you, don't fix what's not broke I guess, but there are easier ways than chasing a special fitting that hasn't been produced in awhile.... :)

Oh, and BTW, setting the can in warm water doesn't 'calm the bubbles down' it heats the propellant gas so that it will boil more easily and help prevent liquid propellant air from coming out, especially at high draw rates... but if you go TOO high, liquid propellant is GOING to come out no matter what you do, pretty much... reduce your air volume coming out the tip to eliminate the 'liquid air' coming out with the gas... but the hot water DOES help considerably! OL JR :)

[LeeR]

I've managed to save away a few cans of the old formual Krylon, but I've recently been using Rustoleum Lacquer, and really like it. Bad news -- not much color selection. I've found black, white, and red. The red is really a nice bright red, and the white and black are as good as I've ever used. I'm finding myself wanting to do a lot of rockets in various combinations of 2-3 of these colors!

I experimented with sanding after 24 hours, and no issues. And for recoating, I basically carried them to my basement shop after spraying outside, hung them for maybe 10 minutes, and then went back outside recoated. You gotta love lacquers for their fast drying times. I applied moderate coverage coats, and 3-4 coats was sufficient.

I also saw some lacquer spray cans at Ace Hardware, but have not tried them yet. Both these and the Rustoleum are full size cans. I've seen the array of colors for the little cans of laquer from Testors (Model Masters?), but scared off by the price.

I would like to test the compatibility of them - -having larger cans for basics, and the smaller cans for specialty colors would be nice.

And then when the weather gets really nice, I'm back to trying to master the airbrush.

[tbzep]

My experience with the new Krylon was mediocre while doing the light coats. I tried to do a heavier final coat to make it look slicker and it liquified all the other light coats and made all the paint run away from the edges.

I love straight lacquor paint. Goes on good, doesn't blush as easily as others, dries fast, smells good (to me). :cool:

The Rustoleum lacquer sources I've seen in surrounding towns are about $5 a can. I haven't found any here local. It's pretty expensive until you look at a tiny $5 can of Testor's Italian Red lacquer. :eek: I've been looking for an alternative for that expensive little can but nothing I've tried has been anywhere close to it. Maybe the Rustoleum can give it a run for the money. I think it's called Chinese Red. Is this what you've found to be nice and bright?

[Solomoriah]

My experience with the new Krylon was mediocre while doing the light coats. I tried to do a heavier final coat to make it look slicker and it liquified all the other light coats and made all the paint run away from the edges.
Sounds like you didn't give it a week to get good and hard (or recoat within the 1 hour window). I had this exact problem with one of mine, twice, before I figured it out.

[LeeR]

My experience with the new Krylon was mediocre while doing the light coats. I tried to do a heavier final coat to make it look slicker and it liquified all the other light coats and made all the paint run away from the edges.

I love straight lacquor paint. Goes on good, doesn't blush as easily as others, dries fast, smells good (to me). :cool:

The Rustoleum lacquer sources I've seen in surrounding towns are about $5 a can. I haven't found any here local. It's pretty expensive until you look at a tiny $5 can of Testor's Italian Red lacquer. :eek: I've been looking for an alternative for that expensive little can but nothing I've tried has been anywhere close to it. Maybe the Rustoleum can give it a run for the money. I think it's called Chinese Red. Is this what you've found to be nice and bright?

I agree on the new Krylon - had issues, but I didn't use it enough to get good at it. Decided not to bother, unless forced to at some point. Like guns and ammo, it is time to stock up on your favorite paint while you can get it!

The smell of lacquer is pleasing to me also, and the smell of butyrate dope takes me back to my childhood, when I brushed it on my rockets ...

Now, regarding the Rustoleum Lacquer, you are right, it is Chinese Red, and the others are just "Black" and "White". Makes me wonder if another red is available, or on the way. I am familiar with Testors Italian Red, and this is a little darker. I'll take a picture tomorrow of a "paint test" rocket with all three colors.

Good news -- I found mine at Hobby Lobby, and that means the $4.99 can can be had for $3 with a 40% off coupon (assuming you have a Hobby Lobby, and they carry this paint...)

[tbzep]

Sounds like you didn't give it a week to get good and hard (or recoat within the 1 hour window). I had this exact problem with one of mine, twice, before I figured it out.

It was within the hour. That's why it liquified instead of lifting or some other gory action. The paint stayed smooth, but it ran away from the edges to the point I could see the primer underneath again.

I'll probably start using Wally World white, or possibly the Rustoleum. I guess I'll have to learn to use the airbrush for most colors.

[Rocket Doctor]

If your not happy with Krylon paint, contact their customer service department and ask for a refund. If you have your receipt, they will issue you that refund. Get the contact number from off the can.

www.krylon.com

[tbzep]

If your not happy with Krylon paint, contact their customer service department and ask for a refund. If you have your receipt, they will issue you that refund. Get the contact number from off the can.

www.krylon.com

I only have the one can. It's not worth the hassle to me, especially since no amount of complaining will make them change back to the old formula, no thanks to the EPA.

[Solomoriah]

It was within the hour. That's why it liquified instead of lifting or some other gory action. The paint stayed smooth, but it ran away from the edges to the point I could see the primer underneath again.
THAT just sounds defective. Not the reliquification, but the running away from the edges. I'd contact Krylon.

[scigs30]

I have a nice stock of old Krylon paint. When this runs out I will use the lacquer spray paint. Most of my vintage Estes rockets are either white, black or red. For the other colors I am thinking of using Tamiya synthetic lacquers. I have used these for plastic models and they are great, but they are expensive. I figure that I spend a lot of money on vintage kits so I don't mind spending the money on a good quality paint.

[BoosterDude]

I had similar results with the new Krylon. I've used it on two different models, and wasn't happy with the results. It seems to take forever to harden even when using light coats. It's just amazing to me how they screwed up such a good product.

[LeeR]

Here is a test rocket for the Rustoleum Lacquer. The red on the tube was over a base coat of the white. The nose cone was just painted over gray primer to see differences. Maybe not bad, if you had not seen the red over the base of white.

These paints are easy to use. I went to Hobby Lobby today, and ours still had these 3 colors, but no others. I did use the 40% off coupon to get another can of white for $3 -- a pretty decent price.

I may pick up some small cans of other color lacquers and test for compatibility. I'll post my results.

Update on 2/22: I decided to spray the red nose cone with Testors Silver. While not a lacquer, it does give me some latitude on other colors to use over the base white and black I use so much.


http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii220/hobbes_pics/Miscellaneous%20Rockets/th_rwb-roc.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii220/hobbes_pics/Miscellaneous%20Rockets/?action=view&current=rwb-roc.jpg)

[PaulK]

Farm & Fleet house brand spray paint is still a lacquer of some sort, recoat anytime. They have maybe a dozen colors. I painted my Interceptor-E with the white, and it came out quite nice. Interceptor-E Thread (http://forums.rocketshoppe.com/showpost.php?p=53677&postcount=182)

[LeeR]

Farm & Fleet house brand spray paint is still a lacquer of some sort, recoat anytime. They have maybe a dozen colors. I painted my Interceptor-E with the white, and it came out quite nice. Interceptor-E Thread (http://forums.rocketshoppe.com/showpost.php?p=53677&postcount=182)

Paul,

Very nice finish on the Interceptor. I am not familiar with Farm and Fleet -- I assume this is a midwest chain? I have noticed a number of lacquers lately, at places like Ace Hardware. Theirs seem to be like the Rustoleum -- limited to your basic black, white, and clear. I did not see red.

My next interest is to check on compatibility with other paints over these lacquers. Was your silver highlighting done with old, or new Krylon?

Glad to hear that the new Estes decals are better, I received mine a few months ago but have not finished my E model yet.

[Bob Kaplow]

I am not familiar with Farm and Fleet -- I assume this is a midwest chain?

Yup. Based out of Wisconsin, also stores in Illinois & Iowa. Probably my second favorite place to get strange stuff for rocket projects, after American Science & Surplus. With FVR based in Woodstock, we're not far from that store at all.

http://www.farmandfleet.com/stores/default.aspx

I've seen similar small chains in other areas in the Midwest. In Muncie, I think it's called Tractor Supply Co. Elsewhere its Fleet Farm.

My most unusual find: 16" disks for plowing the field make perfect blast deflectors, and have a square hole perfect for your favorite rail. It's also my source for syringes, many hand tools, lawn tractor batteries, clothes for the rocket field, pet supplies, snacks, and more.

[ghrocketman]

Quality Farm & Fleet and TSC-Tractor Supply Company are two separate business entities.
They are not the same with different names depending on the region.
There is one city not too far from me that has one of each.

[tbzep]

Yup. Based out of Wisconsin, also stores in Illinois & Iowa. Probably my second favorite place to get strange stuff for rocket projects, after American Science & Surplus. With FVR based in Woodstock, we're not far from that store at all.

http://www.farmandfleet.com/stores/default.aspx

I've seen similar small chains in other areas in the Midwest. In Muncie, I think it's called Tractor Supply Co. Elsewhere its Fleet Farm.

My most unusual find: 16" disks for plowing the field make perfect blast deflectors, and have a square hole perfect for your favorite rail. It's also my source for syringes, many hand tools, lawn tractor batteries, clothes for the rocket field, pet supplies, snacks, and more.

Tractor Supply (TSC) carries Plasti-Kote lacquer primer, but all of their paints are enamels at our store. :(

[flygrimm]

For air brushing, you might want to consider one of these, http://www.grizzly.com/products/1-Gallon-Pancake-Compressor/H7360, not bad considering the $70 is about 7 cans of propellant. Campbel Hausfeld compressors are sold at places like Sears, Home Depot and Lowe's so you can avoid shipping charges, but you'll have to pay sales tax :mad: . Don't limit yourself to this one, as there are similar models available from Craftsman, Dewalt, etc. Once you get one, you will wonder how you got along without it!

Badger shows the spare tire adapter on their web page here, http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Acessories_5.asp, so you may be able to order it direct. Don't forget that you need the regulator that normally screws to the top of the propellant can in conjunction with the spare tire adaptor.

I agree with the others that no matter what air supply you use, a trap is necessary. You can pick one up at the previously mentioned places. I got mine at Sears for about $15.

When I get back into building, I am going to replace my Badger 350 with something like a double action Paasch. Then I'll try the arcrylics.

Cheers

Stuart

[LeeR]

About 25 years ago, I told my wife I needed a compressor to blow out our sprinkler system each Fall. Since they used to charge $25 to rent one, I told her it would pay for itself in 20years! Of course, I HAD to buy the large DeVilbiss 5HP that runs on 220V. But since then, I set up a full wood shop, so it turns out to be one of my best investments. (Probably most used when kids were here, and we were always filling bike tires.)

A compressor is a really handy "tool" to have.

I'll have to admit, though, that I would not mind having one of the small ones just for hobby use. Heck, I own duplicates or more of many tools -- even have two bandsaws. So another compressor isn't ALL that crazy ... (is it?)

:)

[flygrimm]

I'll have to admit, though, that I would not mind having one of the small ones just for hobby use. Heck, I own duplicates or more of many tools -- even have two bandsaws. So another compressor isn't ALL that crazy ... (is it?)


I have 2 routers :) . More tools are always better :D . I also forgot to mention that a compressor with a tank is much more desirable than one without. I had one without once and the airbrush puffed instead of sprayed evenly. With those small compressors the tank probably refills every 5 minutes or so with an airbrush. just wait until it refills and spray on. Now if you are painting a 1/2 scale Saturn V then you might need one of those 5 hp compressors and a commercial spray gun :chuckle: .

[Ltvscout]

Yup. Based out of Wisconsin, also stores in Illinois & Iowa. Probably my second favorite place to get strange stuff for rocket projects, after American Science & Surplus. With FVR based in Woodstock, we're not far from that store at all.

They're my main source for buying bags of cinnamon bears. Mmmmmm!

[Bob Kaplow]

They're my main source for buying bags of cinnamon bears. Mmmmmm!

I wonder if Doug knows that they carry a complete line of TRACTOR PAINT. In fact, that's what I used to paint my magazine back when I was getting my permit from the JBGTs.

[PaulK]

I wonder if Doug knows that they carry a complete line of TRACTOR PAINT. In fact, that's what I used to paint my magazine back when I was getting my permit from the JBGTs.And at least for Krylon, the best part of tractor paint is that it is still a lacquer type paint, recoat anytime. The color selection is a bit limited though...

[luke strawwalker]

Tractor Supply (TSC) carries Plasti-Kote lacquer primer, but all of their paints are enamels at our store. :(

Yep, same here... I wish we'd get Rural King and Big "R" stores down here... all we have in farm/horse supplies are TSC... which is OK but Rural King is THE store for ag/farm/country related stuff... and Big "R" is a close second.

When I was in Indiana around Christmas I saw that they carried Farm and Fleet paints. That's where I got my 891 Elmer's Wood Filler as mentioned in another thread. I think Rural King carried Farm n Fleet paints too IIRC.

There are some Rural King stores in TN, not sure about Big R.

Good luck! OL JR :)

[luke strawwalker]

It was within the hour. That's why it liquified instead of lifting or some other gory action. The paint stayed smooth, but it ran away from the edges to the point I could see the primer underneath again.

I'll probably start using Wally World white, or possibly the Rustoleum. I guess I'll have to learn to use the airbrush for most colors.

I've had really good luck with the 99 cent wally world paint... can't complain so far. The primer works well and the basic white seems as good as any. Can't say much about the new Krylon, but from what I've heard, why bother?? The 99 cent a can stuff is the same if not better so why bother buying new Krylon for more money?? OL JR :)

[tbzep]

Yep, same here... I wish we'd get Rural King and Big "R" stores down here... all we have in farm/horse supplies are TSC... which is OK but Rural King is THE store for ag/farm/country related stuff... and Big "R" is a close second.

When I was in Indiana around Christmas I saw that they carried Farm and Fleet paints. That's where I got my 891 Elmer's Wood Filler as mentioned in another thread. I think Rural King carried Farm n Fleet paints too IIRC.

There are some Rural King stores in TN, not sure about Big R.

Good luck! OL JR :)

We've got a small Rural King about 10 miles from me, and a great big one in an old WalMart building about 30 miles from me. I could hang out in the big one all day. :cool: The free popcorn is good too. ;)

I've had good success with Wally World paint too. They just don't offer enough good colors. I don't like any primer that isn't straight lacquer, though.

[Solomoriah]

The Wal-Mart primer is very sandable... that's all that matters to me.