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Lancecrafter
08-02-2009, 01:45 PM
I looking for some advice on the best glue for gluing balsa nose cones eye screws, to attach the shock cord etc.

MKP
08-02-2009, 02:34 PM
Let the carnage begin! Glue threads are fun! :D

I've used super glue in the past to hold the screw in, but lately I've taken to Gorilla Glue. Seriously over kill, but with a tiny drop of water in the hole and tiny drop of glue, it foams up locks the threads, and seals the screw eye's gap shut, which I've had catch my snap swivels before. I just started this because I ran out of super glue, but I like it.

For the Estes style tea bag attachment, normal ol' white or yellow glue works just fine.

stefanj
08-02-2009, 05:25 PM
General model rocket use:

For everything EXCEPT:

Glueing motor mounts into body tubes
Filleting fins
Assembling and attaching paper shrouds

I use yellow carpenter's glue.

I use white glue the above three applications. Why? Yellow glue shrinks as it cures, which puckers in body tubes (slightly but noticably), makes bubbles in fillets, and warps shrouds.

I use 30 minute epoxy for assembling very large models, with 2 hour epoxy (sometimes with microballoons) for fillets and coating.

Bluegrass Rocket
08-02-2009, 10:58 PM
For the screw eye in balsa application, I have been using Weldbond. Dries crystal clear and super strong. I have also been using Weldbond for engine mounts.

LeeR
08-03-2009, 12:00 AM
I use Titebond and Elmers yellow glues a lot for almost all model rocket applications. For fin fillets, Titebond Trim and Molding Glue is amazing - no bubbles or shrinkage.

For gluing in couplers to join tubes, I use epoxy, since white and yellow glues tend to cause tube swelling. The Trim and Molding Glue might be OK -- worth experimenting to check out.

garmtn
08-03-2009, 12:21 AM
"Gorilla" wood glue. ;) Glenn NAR 89197

ghrocketman
08-03-2009, 10:12 AM
I use epoxy for attaching screw eyes into cones of ANY and ALL rockets using "D" power and above. for simple A-C stuff, I use Titebond. The ONLY time I have had screw eyes yanked/ripped out of cones is from "overly aggressive" ejection charges in 24mm and larger engines. Hence the use of epoxy for any "D" and above, including the Aerotech 18mm "D's" .