Gemini Titan
 

I know, I know. I build these all the time, but if you have not tried using some paper models as wraps for semi-scale rockets you are missing on an incredible source to shortcut the process. This is the Ton Noteboom 1/48 Gemini scaled to the Semroc capsule clone for Estes K-21. All that remains is to color the paper folds with a Sharpie.

I love this stuff!

Gotta link??

Looks MAH-VEL-OUS.... :) OL JR :)

Most of mine come from the Lower Hudson Valley site manitained by Jon Leslie. I will say that I have been trying for months to find Erik to Groen's MR3 & MR4 wraps in 1/35th scale, but they have dropped of the net. I have copies but they are protected pdf and I cannot get them to scale.

http://jleslie48.com/gallery_models_apollo.html

Or you could go nuts...

Nice looking GT capsule. Show us some pics of the booster

The booster is the Estes K-21 cloned. Decals by Excelsior, body - by Semroc, of course...

Are yours the built Gemini-Titans that show up on e-Bay? I guess your the person to ask - I've cloned the K-21 a couple of times myself - what adhesive do you use on the blasted clear fins???? I've used clear dope, plastic cement [tube and liquid], cyano, my wife's pancake better - nothing works well! :confused:

I guess it depends upon the sheet you are using. Mine is SIG Clear Plastic from Sig Manufacturung. Don't think it is styrene sheet but it may be ABS. Regardless, I use Ambroid liquid cement on the tube stick and fin joints. You really need to jig the parts and give them time to set. The problem is that if/when you apply more adhesive the solvent will penetrate the joint once more and possibly weaken it - so you need to make it right the first time.

http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsma...uFV5.html?E+Sig

I heard of someone using small clear quarter round laid in to the angle to add more glueing surface but I have never tried it.

I also got hold of some clear 2.25 plastic tube from ClearTec. You can slit the tube lengthwise, measure around the BT and cut down for an overlap and then run ambroid liquid or Tenax into it. Sets up really well. I got mine as a sample but I think they have a consumer projects section.

http://www.cleartecpackaging.com/plastic-tubing.html

wow
 

I have been looking to do something like this, and after seeing your results, I can only say wow...

Absolutely beautiful. I cannot see even a hint of those clear fins...


Bill

After cursing and finagling the lower roll pattern for a couple of years now, I have (I think) come up with the simple solution. If the model is not built for flight - that is will not receive a slip on can, then it is easier to replicate the prototypical length tunnel on the booster all the way down to the skirt. If the tunnel is left short then there is a mismatch in the diameter of the decal pieces where the intersect with the tunnel. In the past I have had to slit the bar and make a small right angle cut to enable the tunnel to fit into the loose piece. Then I fill the gap with black decal film. I tried simpliying even this by cuttine the bars from the band with about 1mm of stump to align them after the lower band is attached.

If the tunnel carries to the skirt then the "hump" which the decal film has to pass over is consistent along the length of the bar - no need for any surgical intervention on the film. Of course, if you have mirrored tunnels then you will be doing this twice...

On the opic of the bands - there are three sets of white bands which will circle the second stage and booster. The first is a pair immediately below the tan band - if you are building GT-3. To simplify the application of these decals cut the six supplied strips into two pairs and two singlets. The first pair will be applied immediately below the above mentioned band. Once these are aligned and snuggled in leave them alone. Move down the model to the spot for the second pair and apply those as before. Once that is in place, check the upper pair and then make sure that there are no bubbles of creases. If there are gently stroke them until they are flush on the surface.

Move down to the booster and apply the single band below the upper roll pattern. Get this one right since the gap for the United States marking is aligned off of this one. Once all are set and smooth leave the model for about 20 minutes.

Now, the last single band is applied over the middle pair and centered as you apply. The best way is to set one end in the correct centering and slowly turn the airframe to pull the stipe off the backing. This is why you need to leave the decals for twenty minutes. If you pull it off smoothly the center stripe will lay down in the middle of the previously applied band and settle. Be very careful with this one to ensure that you do not pull the underlying decal.