Gemini Titan
 

I know, I know. I build these all the time, but if you have not tried using some paper models as wraps for semi-scale rockets you are missing on an incredible source to shortcut the process. This is the Ton Noteboom 1/48 Gemini scaled to the Semroc capsule clone for Estes K-21. All that remains is to color the paper folds with a Sharpie.

I love this stuff!

Gotta link??

Looks MAH-VEL-OUS.... :) OL JR :)

Most of mine come from the Lower Hudson Valley site manitained by Jon Leslie. I will say that I have been trying for months to find Erik to Groen's MR3 & MR4 wraps in 1/35th scale, but they have dropped of the net. I have copies but they are protected pdf and I cannot get them to scale.

http://jleslie48.com/gallery_models_apollo.html

Or you could go nuts...

Nice looking GT capsule. Show us some pics of the booster

The booster is the Estes K-21 cloned. Decals by Excelsior, body - by Semroc, of course...

Are yours the built Gemini-Titans that show up on e-Bay? I guess your the person to ask - I've cloned the K-21 a couple of times myself - what adhesive do you use on the blasted clear fins???? I've used clear dope, plastic cement [tube and liquid], cyano, my wife's pancake better - nothing works well! :confused:

I guess it depends upon the sheet you are using. Mine is SIG Clear Plastic from Sig Manufacturung. Don't think it is styrene sheet but it may be ABS. Regardless, I use Ambroid liquid cement on the tube stick and fin joints. You really need to jig the parts and give them time to set. The problem is that if/when you apply more adhesive the solvent will penetrate the joint once more and possibly weaken it - so you need to make it right the first time.

http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsma...uFV5.html?E+Sig

I heard of someone using small clear quarter round laid in to the angle to add more glueing surface but I have never tried it.

I also got hold of some clear 2.25 plastic tube from ClearTec. You can slit the tube lengthwise, measure around the BT and cut down for an overlap and then run ambroid liquid or Tenax into it. Sets up really well. I got mine as a sample but I think they have a consumer projects section.

http://www.cleartecpackaging.com/plastic-tubing.html

wow
 

I have been looking to do something like this, and after seeing your results, I can only say wow...

Absolutely beautiful. I cannot see even a hint of those clear fins...


Bill

After cursing and finagling the lower roll pattern for a couple of years now, I have (I think) come up with the simple solution. If the model is not built for flight - that is will not receive a slip on can, then it is easier to replicate the prototypical length tunnel on the booster all the way down to the skirt. If the tunnel is left short then there is a mismatch in the diameter of the decal pieces where the intersect with the tunnel. In the past I have had to slit the bar and make a small right angle cut to enable the tunnel to fit into the loose piece. Then I fill the gap with black decal film. I tried simpliying even this by cuttine the bars from the band with about 1mm of stump to align them after the lower band is attached.

If the tunnel carries to the skirt then the "hump" which the decal film has to pass over is consistent along the length of the bar - no need for any surgical intervention on the film. Of course, if you have mirrored tunnels then you will be doing this twice...

On the opic of the bands - there are three sets of white bands which will circle the second stage and booster. The first is a pair immediately below the tan band - if you are building GT-3. To simplify the application of these decals cut the six supplied strips into two pairs and two singlets. The first pair will be applied immediately below the above mentioned band. Once these are aligned and snuggled in leave them alone. Move down the model to the spot for the second pair and apply those as before. Once that is in place, check the upper pair and then make sure that there are no bubbles of creases. If there are gently stroke them until they are flush on the surface.

Move down to the booster and apply the single band below the upper roll pattern. Get this one right since the gap for the United States marking is aligned off of this one. Once all are set and smooth leave the model for about 20 minutes.

Now, the last single band is applied over the middle pair and centered as you apply. The best way is to set one end in the correct centering and slowly turn the airframe to pull the stipe off the backing. This is why you need to leave the decals for twenty minutes. If you pull it off smoothly the center stripe will lay down in the middle of the previously applied band and settle. Be very careful with this one to ensure that you do not pull the underlying decal.

RocketReviews.com has an index of Downloadable Paper Rocket Models .

-- Roger

Or, you could purchase the new K-21 decals from Sandman since he has now added a triple band.

I have also remedied the incorrect launch cap on the nose of the Gemini capsule. The simplest way to achieve this while using the wraps is to pre-paint the nose white. I do this after sealing the surface and letting it cure out, then dip the nose into a gloss white paint bottle cap. It goes on a little thick initially, but when dry makes for a nice smooth finish. The wrap for the antennae can needs to be cut down a little, but once applied over the paint makes for a nice clean separation line.

Beautiful work!

A few questions:

1. What weight of cardstock do you print on?

2. Have you ever printed the wraps onto photo paper? I've never done this but I've read that it works really well and allows for higher resolution graphics.

3. What are you clear-coating these with?

Thanks,

Steve

The capsule wraps, as indeed the adapter wrap, are printed on multi-purpose paper. It is much easier to work with going around the Semroc balsa cone. The are some slight differences in the geometry of the two and the paper accommodates some stretch.

Never used photo paper on this model. I have built some card models using it, but the cost seemed prohibitive.

The model receives a clear coat of Krylon Krystal Kleer. Build up several light coats adds some rigidity to the paper without causing a bleed. The white paper takes on a palevblue tint until the varnish is completely cured. Strange really but it disappears as it finishes drying.

Clear fins KILL me!
 

I confess. If there is one material that I loathe woring with it is ABS. I would gladly pay someone to either figure a way to LC or mill this material to rough shape. It doesn't even have to have a fine edge, I can do that, it just seems that there has to be a more efficient way of cutting this...

Beuhler? Beuhler? Anyone?

If you can filegree cut bond paper surely this material can be managed?

Mr. Harding,
You do some beautiful work, that's for sure! I have a question: are not the 'portholes' of the interstage supposed to line up exactly under the open rectangles (and where open rectangles would be but cannot due to structure)? In some of the photographs of the real thing, one can actually see straight through to the outside of the rocket here.

When one looks at various offered decals (Estes and aftermarket), the portholes are not lined up as they should be. I have to think that folks have always cut this decal out to include both the portholes and the rectangles as one decal, when it should be two separate ones. Heck, the Sheri's rendition was missing some portholes altogether.

What are your thoughts?

Allen

You are absolutlely correct. The interstage on the LV was a lot of wide open spaces. The vents on the interstage are probably the last elements I would go after on the K-21 rendition. The arrangement of the vents is loosely interpreted; also these are tear drop shaped and best represented in the Ton Noteboom paper model - from which I derive the capsule wraps. Even those demonstrate that the original balsa capsule, and the accurate contemporary renditions of the model are a little small. The coning angle of the adapter is also off a little so there are a wealth of issues in the original kit. The K-21 instructions reference only single grouping of tunnels (LL on the original kit)

The current clones are a decent representation of the original model, not of the original launch vehicle. The K-21 instructions position the vents as the contemporary decals represent them. The more accurate rendition, attached, is where I would look for reference to the original LV. That or some of the Gassaway drawings. Strictly by the book, there are 17 teardrop shaped vents at the top of the first stage. The long tunnels align with the center of the interstage structures 180 degress apart. Starting from spacecraft port, they are arranged in a group of five, tunnel, two centered above the national marking, group of seven, tunnel, three singles, the first two of which mirror the opposties above the national marking.

*In thinking it through further you could consider that the vent patterns are the same through 180 degrees with the exception of the first group of seven having one removed (the second). The holes pretty much align the same way. Look at the Ton Noteboom hr update1*

Given that K-21 markings and roll patterns were painted on the model it really is a lot simpler to go with a decal which reflects the intent of the original kit designer when cloning than to become overly aggressive on the level of detail attached to a semi-scale model.

Wow, those Ton Noteboom pics are really well-done. I forgot I used them when I did the Sheri's version. I remember looking at those teardrop shapes and thinking, 'no way am I going that far!'
I must be getting old.....er...

Thank-you for the detailed description!
I can't for the life of me remember where I got the idea to use the red verticals.

Allen

I suppose you could consider having them LC Into the tube. The problem would be that it weakens the structure. Even the cuts on a BT-55 for the Nike-X are problematic.

I'll get pictures...the ones I tried here you could not pull up to see for some reason...
I'm at the lab; have to go to the homestead to get 'em.

Here ya go...

You're doin' it wrong! :D
Make it a gap stager and you can double the wall at the cuts and stiffen with CA. My son did that with his and it works great.

Rockets that pretty ought to be against the law. :eek:

During their zenith SHR had some impressive parts. The bells case in point. Still and all it is a kit, and the expertise displayed here is without compare.

Better watch how you word that. :p

Well, she did. I guess Sheri is enjoying life in Hawaii keeping them tanned

Not if you pre-strengthen the tube BEFORE the cuts! Epoxy, CA, or a coupler inside will do this just fine.

J

This is all very meta- talking about making a model of a model after all. Great techniques and great builds.

kj

... not to mention a few posts about someone who modeled with her models.

-- Roger

There is a fairly decent drawing by Robert Blaske of the exterior of the GLV which demonstartes the scale location of the vents. As you observed, the tear drop shaped openings would only appear within the frame of a set of stringers, thuse they would be immediately below one of the rectangular openings or in the space in whcih there was no opening, between stringers. Note also that this perspective has eighteen on the interstage.

Bi Gemini! Or I guess it is Tri Gemini

Good lookin' birds there John! Which Redstone kit is that or is it a clone? Why so many Titans, do you sell these?

It is a hybrid. The tubes and LC fins come from Semroc. I use a capsule from the Estes kit and usually get rid of the plastic fin can, mount, fins and slotted tubes, replaced with a single tube for the tankage and a shorter section for the motor and fins.

I think there is some record here. This is number 30. Visually identical to the previous 29 (well, there are a couple of Gemini 7 builds and one or two with the original LL conduits) but I think I am getting comfortable with building these now.

Why so many? Do you build for people or sell them online?

Little of both - in the main it is custom requests for GT-3