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Old 04-26-2017, 06:09 PM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
President, MAYHEM AGITATORS, Inc.
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Nunya Bizznuss, Michigan
Posts: 13,443
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Ambroid (and Sig-Ment) along with Testors Cenent (both yellow and green tube) are extremely WEAK adhesives for attaching fins on rockets and is even worse for engine mount use. I would never use it even for 1/2A mini-motor power stuff. If it works for you and it is what you like, go for it.

For LPR up to 24mm C11 power I attach with Titebond II and fillet with 15 or 30 min Epoxy. The strength of epoxy is not required for under a high-thrust full 80 n-sec F, but it makes totally even, single-pass, ultra strong fillets.

For all 24mm D12 power and-up I use 15-min Epoxy to attach fins and 30-min Epoxy for fillets. I build the engine mount(s) with 30-min Epoxy. I use quality aircraft-grade Epoxy, not junk hardware store stuff.

I don't ever use 5-min Epoxy; that stuff is weak junk.

Is Epoxy really neccessary below say an H250 ?
Maybe not, but I NEVER have fins separate from tubes on landing and the extra weight is negligible.

For plastic cement I almost always use Tenax 7R plastic weldor.

I use medium-thickness Super Jet CA for limited use in rocket building where appropriate, but use a lot of it for building R/C aircraft.

For Balsa grain-filling I use Vintage Pactra Aero Gloss products. 3 coats of Balsa Fillercoat followed by 2-3 coats of Sanding Sealer.

For Contact Cement where required, I use vintage Sig Core-Bond which primarily is used for attaching 1/32" Balsa or 1/64" plywood skins to R/C Pattern-Airplane foam wing cores. It works well for attaching body wraps to rocket tubes.
For clear-canopies I use R/C 56 glue.
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