Probably flying mine again tomorrow if the weather holds up - would a quick wrap of clear tape at the shroud joint be a reasonable preventative measure?

It actually looks iike it might have been CA. The parts where the joint failed are both painted black....and I'm wondering if that's part of the problem.

I'm also rather surprised at just how many parts there are in this upper section. The black portion of the top of the S-IVB is a separate part from the next section down, which goes to the ribbed section above the upper interstage. From here to the top of the S-II is another part which, of course has the portion that goes into the top of the actual body tube and to which the recovery system is attached inside it.

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Bernard Cawley
NAR 89040 L1 - Life Member
SAM 0061
AMA 42160
KG7AIE

I suppose. It'd be ugly but it would work. I'd be tempted to just test the joint for firmness...or maybe flow a little thin CA into the joint which is right at the top of the topmost ribbed section.

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Bernard Cawley
NAR 89040 L1 - Life Member
SAM 0061
AMA 42160
KG7AIE

That was my first impulse but I’m, unfortunately, out of thin CA! Just a couple tubes of the gel type and I don’t feel like making a run to the store. I do have some Plastruct thin cement handy though so maybe I’ll try that.

Orange tube = good.
Blue tube (non toxic) = bad.

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I like the unusual, the off beat, the avant-garde. No 3/4 FNC for me!

Hate to tell you, but they both suck. The blue has always sucked, just as their 'wood glue' did in the green tube. Since the formulation changed, the stuff in the orange tube is mediocre and gets brittle over time. GH can comment here, but isn't the orange tube just gelled MEK?
My experience, anyway.

Allen

The orange tube stuff is styrene dissolved in Toluene and Oil of Mustard.
The problem with the current stuff is that they cut the Toluene in half several (like 15) years ago.
To make the stuff decent, you have to mix 2 parts orange tube with one part Toluene or dope thinner.

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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!!

Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't !
Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY.
ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, and HAVOC !

Concur, that guy's posts have really irritated me as well. I can't imagine ever flying on a field where someone so opinionated is the RSO.

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Which tube-type (toluene-type) and liquid (MEK-type, with a brush applicator) cements for plastic models (styrene or ABS) would you recommend? I recently bought a Hasegawa 1:200 scale Space Shuttle Orbiter & 747 SCA plastic model, and it's been over a decade since I've built such a kit--and when building my Estes UP Aerospace SpaceLoft kits (gluing on their nose cones' bases), I noticed that the orange-tube Testors stuff didn't seem to work as well as it had years before... (I'm not trying to hijack this thread, as information on ^today's^ best tube-type and liquid plastic model cements would also be helpful to BEC and to others whose 1:200 scale Saturn V RTF models have suffered ILDIs [In-flight or Landing De-bonding Incidents].)

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Black Shire--Draft horse in human form, model rocketeer, occasional mystic, and writer, see:
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NAR #54895 SR

Stock tube type current plastic cement- NONE !

Liquid plastic cements-
1) Plastruct BONDENE, Tenax 7R, or Micro-Mark "Same Stuff"; all are Methylene Chloride.
2) Tamiya Cement (NOT the Extra-thin)
3) Plain old Dope Thinner from Sig or Brodak.

NOT anything current from Testors.

__________________
When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!!

Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't !
Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY.
ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, and HAVOC !