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  #71  
Old 08-13-2018, 10:33 PM
nerys nerys is offline
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yes all the old exotic nose cones! I can't wait to print the aquarius nose cone. how about some tubes for the cargo pods on the aquarius. ie put panel details and stuff on them to make it even nicer than the stock plain paper tubes design.

so much potential! once they are 3d we can scale them up and down.

I can print a half meter cubed in a single part !! and I have 4 printers that can do 400x400x500 !
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  #72  
Old 08-14-2018, 09:03 PM
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teflonrocketry1 teflonrocketry1 is offline
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Location: Whitehouse, Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scott_mills
If anyone has a nose cone idea, they want to try out, and need some help getting it cadded up, I am very willing to help you create and print it. I am bored and running out of my own ideas, and want to keep playing with the cad program. So if anyone has some WILD or FANTASTIC idea they want created, just shoot me a line.


Scott,

One of the reasons I got into 3D printing was to allow me to easily make puller type designs. Think of a "Deuces Wild" with both motors mounted and ducted through the nose cone, I call it a hammerhead design. I also want to mount just one motor canted off vertical inside the nosecone and duct it down the body tube ( I call that one the sturgeon). While I was at it I considered 3 or even more nosecone mounted motors. Since all the weight is in the nose it should make for some stable and very interesting designs (fins on a narrow boom or even a hammer head shark shaped model). Besides canting the motors off the vertical a slight horizontal cant should make for some interesting spinning effects.

I also wanted to 3D print some Rocketarium oddroc designs like the Votico's and Rebel's . A 3D printed Rocketarium Toxic Typhoon or Terraformer would also be cool.
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  #73  
Old 08-14-2018, 09:36 PM
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teflonrocketry1 teflonrocketry1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nerys
[QUOTE=teflonrocketry1]When I got my Ender 2 3D printer the first thing I did was print the 3 modifications that everyone seems to suggest; a 1mm shim for the Z axis motor, a Vrail stabilizer for the Z axis lead screw

get rid of this. it will only cause you pain in the long run. the lead screw should never be locked down. ie do not "fix" the top end of the lead screw.

in a perfect world.... not a perfect world $200 printer.

by locking down the lead screw you turn your kinematics into "framing" since the lead screw is rigid. this means if the lead screw is not "PERFECTLY" straight and "perfectly" aligned with the vertical rail you will have 2 forces acting in opposition as the lead screw shimmies around and pushes and pulls on the vertical rail and by extension your X arm and carriage assembly

IE z banding. you can install the little bracket just make sure the hole for the lead screw is large enough that it can wiggle around a couple of mm's if it wants too this way it won't transfer force to the rest of the printer and therefore your print.

its one of the easiest mods to make to a tevo printer (tornado, michealangelo, flash) remove the 2 screws remove the bearing. leave the lead screw "free"

much better prints. this is why if you look on creality printer the lead screw appears restrained but if you touch it you will see it can "wiggle around" in that mount. that is good.


Chris,

I drilled out the V-rail stabilizer with a 3/8 inch bit. It is now just an open ring (essentially a bracket as you suggest) that limits the maximum deviation of the vertical z axis lead screw. I learned the hard way not to restrain the Z-axis lead screw. I can't believe there are so many people who have posted this useless modification that actually ruins the print quality of the Ender 2. I think I downloaded at least 5 different designs of these from Thingiverse.

I think the electrical wires that hang off the Ender 2 gantry get too heavy at about 20 inches into the print and over torque the Z axis drive motor. I am trying to figure out how to overcome this issue. I have attached pictures of the modified Ender 2 printer alongside an unmodified one (yes, that is a yard stick taped to the V-rail Z axis). On the picture with the 30 inch long nosecone 3D print in progress you can see the wire harness that is hanging down along the printer. The print was practically flawless until the nosecone fell off the printer bed!
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  #74  
Old Today, 12:45 AM
vcp vcp is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2011
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My NARAM C Egglofter was 100% 3D printed. On Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3056609

My other NARAM models were mostly printed as well - they'll be on Thingiverse as I get them written up.
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