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  #1  
Old 08-22-2014, 12:26 AM
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jeffyjeep jeffyjeep is offline
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Default Estes Optima build----with upgrades.

I'm still home alone.

"the Vixen" and her whack-job sister have left Philly and are now in Atlantic City. Great. We're about to become poor.

I came into possession of a pristine Estes Optima kit #2035 recently and it's now time to bring it to life--but with a few upgrades.

All of the parts are still in their sealed packets and are in like-new condtion. The colored adhesive film pieces will get the "bag and book" treatment: placed in a freezer bag and parked between (2) large books in the barristers so they don't get damaged and they remain completely flat. The chrome film is replacable--I have plenty of that. The orange/copper metal-flake film pieces: not so much.

The first upgrade is to make the model accept either "D" or "E" motors. I replace the "D" EH with an "E" EH and add (1) inch to the insertion of the thrust ring and the placement of the EH. TBC
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything.

4 out of 3 people struggle with math.

Chemically, alcohol IS a solution.

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Last edited by jeffyjeep : 08-22-2014 at 07:26 AM.
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  #2  
Old 08-22-2014, 12:39 AM
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jeffyjeep jeffyjeep is offline
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Next, for maximum strength and longevity I'm using epoxy exclusively for assembly. Couplers are mounted into the BT80's and the engine mount and first stuffer tube section is now finished and inserted into the lower BT80.

Next upgrade: the model has non-trailing fins, so to try to reduce recovery damage (because every rocketeer knows that if there's (1) square inch of asphalt hidden in a 100 acre field of soft grass and clover, the descending rocket WILL find it) I slit a 15/16" ring from a spare BT80 coupler and epoxy it into the rear cavity.

Time for a Scotch and a Wingwalker. Good night. TBC
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__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything.

4 out of 3 people struggle with math.

Chemically, alcohol IS a solution.

NAR# 94042
SAM# 0078
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  #3  
Old 08-22-2014, 03:29 AM
A Fish Named Wallyum A Fish Named Wallyum is offline
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I know what you mean about the metal flake pieces. I found some orange tape that is used in road construction, but it was VERY expensive. I decided on one of the alternate paint schemes, so I just went off the reservation and got some red and silver Mylar tape. Good enough for a budget Optima.
"...epoxy it into the rear cavity...." These words just seem so unnatural. I'm filled with fear.
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  #4  
Old 08-22-2014, 07:25 AM
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I got to thinking about the metal flake adhesive film and where to get it. After a short search, I found topvinylfilms.com who sells the stuff for customizing vehicles.

It looks like it's available in every color except orange/copper.

TBC
__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything.

4 out of 3 people struggle with math.

Chemically, alcohol IS a solution.

NAR# 94042
SAM# 0078
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  #5  
Old 08-22-2014, 08:45 AM
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After joining the BT80/stuffer tube assemblies with epoxy I align them with a length of dead-straight aluminum angle and wrap the tubes and aluminum with rubber bands until the adhesive hardens.

Next upgrade: I take a length of 400# Kevlar and tie it and epoxy it to the top of the stuffer tube and then also cap it with a 29mm thrust ring. I cut a hole in the top CR, pass the Kevlar through it, and then epoxy the CR to the stuffer tube and to the rim of the BT80 coupler.

Do I use the kit's 1/4" rubber shock cord? Nope. Instead, I tie a 5 foot long, 1/2" wide braided elastic shock cord to the Kevlar.

TBC
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__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything.

4 out of 3 people struggle with math.

Chemically, alcohol IS a solution.

NAR# 94042
SAM# 0078
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  #6  
Old 08-22-2014, 09:52 AM
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jeffyjeep jeffyjeep is offline
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Next upgrade:

This model just BEGS for basswood fins, so I've selected my best sheet of Midwest 1/8" basswood for the job.

The "die-crushed" fin parts are actually quite nice for their age, and they'll make perfect patterns.

(3) #11 blades and 500 ml of O+ later, the cutting, bleeding, and swearing is finished.

If anyone would like the kit's original balsa fins, PM your address to me.

Jeff
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__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything.

4 out of 3 people struggle with math.

Chemically, alcohol IS a solution.

NAR# 94042
SAM# 0078
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  #7  
Old 08-22-2014, 10:14 AM
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After using a sheet of 220 taped onto a slab of Corian to join the parts of the 2-piece fins, I then glue the pieces together and let the glue set while the fin assemblies are on a wax paper covered Corian slab and weighted down with (2) heavy objects and (1)---not so much.

TBC
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__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything.

4 out of 3 people struggle with math.

Chemically, alcohol IS a solution.

NAR# 94042
SAM# 0078
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  #8  
Old 08-22-2014, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffyjeep
I got to thinking about the metal flake adhesive film and where to get it. After a short search, I found topvinylfilms.com who sells the stuff for customizing vehicles.

It looks like it's available in every color except orange/copper.

TBC




I cannot swear to having seen it, but check the craft stores leading up to Halloween.


Bill
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  #9  
Old 08-22-2014, 01:13 PM
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With the glue on the joints of the 2-piece fins now dry, I again use the 220 covered Corian slab and hand scrape a nice "bullnose" profile into the leading edges of the fins and sub fins. TBC
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__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything.

4 out of 3 people struggle with math.

Chemically, alcohol IS a solution.

NAR# 94042
SAM# 0078
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  #10  
Old 08-22-2014, 03:17 PM
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Looking forward to the completed rocket! I am going to try and use some of your techniques the next time I build a rocket as far as the epoxy and beefing up some of the gear. After the 2 cato's a couple weeks ago I figure it can't hurt to strengthen things up. I wish you had a thread on how to fix a exploded fin can on an Executioner.
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