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  #21  
Old 11-19-2014, 06:44 PM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
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+1 for the Tamiya extra thin cement.
It is much less commonly found than all the others though.
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  #22  
Old 11-19-2014, 11:23 PM
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I pretty much agree with much of what has been said here - the Testors non-toxic "safe" glue is pretty much crap - gluing nose cones to shoulders or fins to fin mounts with it is a guaranteed failure at launch.

The regular Testors tube cement is a bit better, but stick to building model cars and planes with it - it only really works with styrene plastic but doesn't work as well with ABS (which is what a lot of the Estes 2 part nose cones are made from). Tenax or Plastruct Weld are the best choices for cementing many kinds of plastic together. I believe Tenax is actually a blend of solvents designed to attack quite a few different types of plastic. I usually apply it with a brush - coat both pieces with the cement, then put a second coat on one part just before putting them together. You know you've done it right if you get a small bead of plastic oozing out from the joint as you push the parts together. Another great applicator is a small syringe with a blunted needle (cut the needle off square) - that is if you can get one.

One plastic that these solvents do NOT work on is PLA (poly lactic acid). Best bet for that is either CA or epoxy.
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  #23  
Old 11-20-2014, 02:37 AM
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Tenax 7R used to be straight Perchloroethylene.
Now it is a blend of Methylene Chloride (really nasty stuff, but great plastic WELDER), and a small percentage of Perchloroethylene.
I think the % of 'Perc' got reduced due to some mamby-pamby enviro-whacko BS.

Tenax 7R is the BEST welder for well fitting polystyrene. If there are any gaps at all, you MUST use a thin strand of 'feeder' plastic to fill the gaps while cementing, just like when using a wire-feed welder on metal.
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  #24  
Old 11-20-2014, 06:17 AM
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Thanks, Greg. Question to you and others: What about surface preparation? I figure wiping down with alcohol is a given, but how about texture? Does rough vs. smooth vs. polished matter?
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  #25  
Old 11-20-2014, 11:05 AM
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For plastic cements/welders you do not have to roughen the surface as it 'welds/melts' the plastic together.
Epoxy is a 'mechanical bond' thus roughening helps.
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Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL
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  #26  
Old 11-20-2014, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mojo1986
Thanks for the tips. Does Home Depot carry Tenax?


Nope...

Local Hobby Shop (LHS) or order online from a hobby supply company is your best bet...

Later! OL JR
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  #27  
Old 11-20-2014, 07:04 PM
chrism chrism is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghrocketman
+1 for the Tamiya extra thin cement.
It is much less commonly found than all the others though.



Tamiya products are usually stocked in the better hobby shops. I am not sure if Hobby Lobby has it or not.
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  #28  
Old 11-21-2014, 02:51 PM
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My local hobby shop carries Tamiya cement (along with Tenax 7R, 3 versions of Plastruct Cement, Testors, and Ambroid pro-weld) but the local Hobby Lobby does not. Hobby Lobby only carries Testors.
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!!

Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL
, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't !

Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY.
ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, TURMOIL, FIASCOS, and HAVOC !
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