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Old 05-19-2017, 08:29 PM
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Red face Glues White vs Yellow vs Epoxy

Glue Types

Good Grief ! I have not posted on this site since 2009 ! That must be some record for a living old-timer.

Anyhow, I build using mostly yellow glue. I have reached my lifetime limit on epoxy. If I come into contact with the hardener, it dissolves my skin like hydrofluoric acid within seconds ! My last exposure almost sent my with what was left of my hands to the burn unit.

I do not recommend using epoxy unless you have gloves and plenty of ventilation.

I use white glue for rocket camps. I do not have a reaction to plastic cement.

Manuel Mejia, Jr. AKA Astrosaint
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Last edited by Ltvscout : 05-20-2017 at 08:51 AM.
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Old 05-19-2017, 10:45 PM
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For group builds I have become fond of Allene's Tacky Glue....and recently discovered Allene's Turbo Tacky Glue. It's a little thinner but dries more quickly (hence the "turbo" in the name). And yet it doesn't grab a motor mount going in at the wrong time like yellow wood glues.

I hear you on epoxy. I have not reached that point, but I don't use it unless I must (motor retainers on larger models is about the only place in rockets where I use it).
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Old 05-20-2017, 05:52 AM
astronwolf astronwolf is offline
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Hi Manuel. I've wondered where you went off to. Good to hear from you.

I use mostly yellow glue. CA occasionally. White glue for fillets. I don't have an allergy to epoxy and lately use it for making light airframes with fiberglass.
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Old 05-20-2017, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by astronwolf
Hi Manuel. I've wondered where you went off to. Good to hear from you.

I use mostly yellow glue. CA occasionally. White glue for fillets. I don't have an allergy to epoxy and lately use it for making light airframes with fiberglass.



Career, marriage, and the house kept me busy for awhile. I do fly with the Rock or Orlando section every now and again.

Astrosaint
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Old 05-20-2017, 10:44 AM
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I use mostly Titebond since I'm a woodworker too, and so it's always in the shop.

I recently bought a tiny bottle of "Liquid Adhesive" from our Dollar Store, just to get the little bottle with a tiny tip and screw-on lid. I have not been able to find the tiny bottles of Elmer's. I like smaller bottles for dispensing for model building.

Upon opening the Liquid Adhesive, the label showed it to contain PVA Glue. In other words, it was a white glue. Upon testing with some balsa scraps, it bonded really well. It was billed as a glue for paper, cardboard, plastics, fabrics -- sounded promising, and I'd say it works as well as any white glue I've used. I did not do side-by-side comparisons to Titebond joints, but when I broke the bonded pieces, they did not crack at the joint. They failed along the balsa grain next to the joint.

When it's empty, I'll likely refill with Titebond, but I was pleasantly surprised. I was more than willing to spend a buck just for the container.
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Old 05-20-2017, 11:07 AM
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I exclusively used Elmer's white glue for decades on LPR, and various epoxies for HPR, mostly 30 minute and 1 hour stuff from Bob Smith, often rebranded.

I started using Elmer's yellow wood glue probably 15-20 years ago and liked how it set so much quicker. I still use white glue when I need a more fluid and slow setting glue. Titebond was a brand I only read about for years and finally started seeing it around here a few years ago. I actually bought a bottle of Titebond Original the other day but have yet to try it. I figure it's pretty much the same as the Elmer's stuff.

I don't use epoxy on LPR unless it is a special circumstance. I learned to prevent sticking motor mounts without epoxy years ago and I learned not to leave rockets laying on their fins out in the sun.

My best tip on using any of the paper/wood glues is to buy a little kid size Elmer's bottle and wash the school glue out of it, then fill it with your favorite flavor of real glue. The small bottle lets you get into tight spaces and the pointed nose is much more precise than the slit noses of the big wood glue bottles because they are designed to dump a lot of glue over a large wood surface.
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Old 05-20-2017, 12:48 PM
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I use epoxy exclusively for fillets, even LPR. It offers superior strength for very little weight penalty. I wear gloves when using it.
Makes FLAWLESS single-pass fillets.
My fins NEVER break-off at the tube joint unlike those applied with white-glue or even Titebond.
It works for me, but it is more complex to use than other glues.

If you are going to use epoxy, NEVER use the "5 minute" GARBAGE. It is weak and borderline useless.

For 'tacking' and 'quick repairs' I mostly use medium-viscosity CA.
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