#51
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I love sanding. |
#52
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I wanted a quick and easy build, so I selected the recent Star Orbiter. Wasn't particularly quick as I took my time epoxying the body joint and fins as I anticipate stress during flight.
One question: Has anyone flown this one yet? Born without an engine block, the instructions tell us to wrap 6 or so 1/8 inch wraps of masking tape around the bottom of the engine to simulate a composite engine. I've never done this. Does it work? Worried about not having a thrust ring. (Okay, that was two questions.)
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Just completed: Estes Cherokee-E, Estes Multi-Roc. Current project: Painting the roll pattern on my new Ventris build, gifted me by the estimable Dr. Houchin. |
#53
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Absolutely, but I'd use something a little wider than 1/8" for convenience. If you have 1/2" or 1/4" masking tape, use it. Don't waste time splitting anything down to 1/8". If it hangs over a little, that's ok. I once witnessed an L1000 EX motor that used a combination of friction fit for ejection purposes along with a tape thrust ring. It was full width of tape instead of 1/8" but it worked.
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I love sanding. |
#54
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I’ve flown my Star Orbiter 4 times, one E16 flight, and three F15 flights. I could not find 1/4” masking tape locally so I ordered a roll off eBay or Amazon. (Sorry, I just don’t remember which.)
The tape thrust ring on end of motor works great. And it fits fine in the screw-on retainer.
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Lee Reep NAR 55948 Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, Ken Foss Designs Mini Satellite Interceptor In the Paint Shop: Nothing! Too cold! Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp |
#55
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Thanks again, Zep and Lee! It's going up this weekend.
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Just completed: Estes Cherokee-E, Estes Multi-Roc. Current project: Painting the roll pattern on my new Ventris build, gifted me by the estimable Dr. Houchin. |
#56
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Wasn't thinking about the model having retainer. Without one, you just put enough tape on to make it flush with the outer surface of the motor tube, then tape the thrust ring to the motor tube with two or three wraps and it will retain the motor for ejection.
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I love sanding. |
#57
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Just for historical purposes, the L1000 EX/prototype motor was a single use motor made by Frank Kosdon using a 3" fiberglass casing. It was flown in Manchester TN in the late 90's best I remember. I could narrow it down but that was back in the days of Kodak and Fuji film and I don't want to dig through boxes of photos. I think the last name of the guy that had it was Rosen.
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I love sanding. |
#58
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Watch closely when the motor lights. It goes from “Zero” to “Did anyone see where it went?” pretty quickly.
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Lee Reep NAR 55948 Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, Ken Foss Designs Mini Satellite Interceptor In the Paint Shop: Nothing! Too cold! Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp |
#59
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It flies great on an E9-6/E12-6. I put a thrust ring in mine, however. I also used a BMS 4" long BT-60-sized nose block to make the upper tube a payload section. If you are using the Estes 24/29 adapter, it has a built-in rear thrust ring. I have used making tape thrust rings in the past, but the tape needs to be at least as thick as the motor tube (without retainer) to work well. The skinniest tape that I have used 1/2" wide tape. Skinnier tape can probably be found at a shop that specializes in automotive painting. Even 1/2" wide making tape is not easy to find.
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'Til next time, Mike Toelle NAR 31692 L1 SAM 0373 |
#60
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Star Orbiter is a great flyer - both 24mm with an adapter and 29mm with a tape thrust ring. I realize everyone has their own methods but mine for tape thrust rings is to use regular masking tape, 6-8 wraps overhanging the motor, then trim it with a razor blade. The Estes 24/29mm adapter works great and seems to hold up well - I’ve used a couple of them at least 5 or 6 times without any damage.
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