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  #11  
Old 08-27-2012, 10:28 AM
tfischer tfischer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandman
I've measured the tube with my digital caliper.

The O.D. is 0.770 and the I.D. is 0.700.

That matches with a T-20+ from Totally Tubular (erockets now)

http://www.erockets.biz/Totally-Tubular.html

The inside tube will be a BT-20.

It may be hard to glue the BT-20 in without it grabbing on you.

The other cheaper alternative is a standard BT-20 with the tube coupler inside and building up the O.D. of the BT-20 just at the ends where it's glued into it's mating parts.

You could do that with just strips of paper glued on the ends.


Great information, thanks.

Could you measure the length of your tube for me? I've read it's 9.25" but wanted to confirm. It's kind of a critical measurement in order for the rotors to release properly.

-Tim
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  #12  
Old 08-27-2012, 11:56 AM
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sandman sandman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfischer
Great information, thanks.

Could you measure the length of your tube for me? I've read it's 9.25" but wanted to confirm. It's kind of a critical measurement in order for the rotors to release properly.

-Tim


Yep! Exactly 9.25" long.
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  #13  
Old 08-27-2012, 12:45 PM
tfischer tfischer is offline
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Super, thanks. I think I'm on my way to a few "fix" options.

I'll update this thread when I've completed it. Might be awhile, unfortunately.

-Tim
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  #14  
Old 10-29-2013, 08:45 AM
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I saw this thread the other day when I was researching the OOP Skywinder model rocket.
I was interested in the Skywinder because I had one years ago. I have now idea what became of it, but I digress...

The reason why I decided to post here and revive an old thread is because, I am currently building an Estes Venus Probe, and it dawned on me that the small body tube used in this kit is a thick walled body tube just like the Skywinder has, only this tube is a few inches longer than the Skywinder body tube.

I believe Estes designates them as heavy wall tubes. A quick look at Estes parts numbers would make one draw this conclusion.

Skywinder
HBT-20

Venus Probe
HBT-760

I'm pretty sure the two tubes are identical except for length. Someone else may be able to double check this. I can not say for certain, because I do not have a Skywinder in my possession at the moment.

I just thought I'd at least put this information out there in case someone was really desperate to get their Skywinder flying again they will be armed with the knowledge that they could potentially cannibalize a Venus Probe kit to do it.
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  #15  
Old 10-30-2013, 12:59 AM
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Bill Bill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by astronot
I'm pretty sure the two tubes are identical except for length. Someone else may be able to double check this. I can not say for certain, because I do not have a Skywinder in my possession at the moment.




The tube of my SkyWinder is 9 9/32" long.


Bill
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  #16  
Old 10-30-2013, 08:24 AM
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The tube on the Venus Probe is 14 1/2 inches long.

I was actually more concern about the inside and outside diameter of the thick walled tubes being the same.

The one on the Venus Probe is just big enough for an Estes 18mm motor to fit inside.
The outside Diameter is 19.40 mm. It's a pretty rigid tube as far as model rocket tubes are built these days. They sure don't make then like they used to.

I'm not sure about the Skywinder.
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  #17  
Old 10-30-2013, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandman
It may be hard to glue the BT-20 in without it grabbing on you.

I ALWAYS use epoxy on these things. 30 minute kind, in the big bottles from Hobby Lobby. Never grabs, allowing you to reposition the tube until it's just right. Any engine mount with "thick" rings, or any case where one tube slips inside another, is just too much of an opportunity for a bad grab.
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  #18  
Old 11-01-2013, 02:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solomoriah
I ALWAYS use epoxy on these things. 30 minute kind, in the big bottles from Hobby Lobby. Never grabs, allowing you to reposition the tube until it's just right. Any engine mount with "thick" rings, or any case where one tube slips inside another, is just too much of an opportunity for a bad grab.
** Nods in knowledge garnered from such happenings ** As much as I like yellow (aliphatic resin) wood glue, those are two bonding jobs that I no longer use it for, for the reason you gave. Elmer's Glue-All provides ample time for re-positioning motor mounts and sleeve tubes, but long-pot life epoxy and polyurethane cements provide stronger bonds than white glue.
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  #19  
Old 11-01-2013, 07:15 AM
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White glue grabs too fast to suit me when slipping a tube (or coupler) into a tube. Maybe I'm just slow.
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  #20  
Old 11-01-2013, 08:14 AM
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Rich Holmes Rich Holmes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solomoriah
White glue grabs too fast to suit me when slipping a tube (or coupler) into a tube. Maybe I'm just slow.

Chris Michielssen wrote about this a while ago

http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot...s-glue-all.html

with a recent update

http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot...lue-part-1.html

After getting freeze-ups once too many with Elmer's yellow glue, I've switched to epoxy for motor mounts and couplers. I have a bottle of the ("New Stronger Formula") white glue but I won't risk using it where it might grab.
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