#1
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Working with Basswood
Hello,
I am working on my first rocket to use Basswood fins, I Found that with a good sanding the fins became quite smooth. Is it traditional to use sanding sealer on basswood? I just do not know. Thank you in advance for any thoughts. |
#2
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One light coat of sanding sealer on basswood fins is usually plenty to fill the grain.
Sand after coat. If needed go with a second coat but basswood never needs more than 2, unlike balsa that in the worst case may need 4-6 coats.
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!! Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't ! Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY. ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, TURMOIL, FIASCOS, and HAVOC ! |
#3
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I agree with GH. I have several scratch builds that have basswood fins. 1 coat of sealer is usually enough. I have purchased some basswood that has been smooth enough after a good initial sanding that a good coat of primer filled in the grain nicely.
__________________
Dave Fire is the leading cause of fire. Was once SAM#0132 |
#4
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Hmm. I may try basswood too. Is there any reason NOT to use basswood?
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#5
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Quote:
It is a little harder to cut and sand. OTOH, sanding tends to be more precise . . . it is easier to shape nice airfoils w/o getting out of hand. It is heavier. Because the grain is tighter, glue doesn't seep in as readily, so bonds aren't quite as strong. (Generally not a problem with TTW mounting.) It is a bit more expensive. |
#6
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I use epoxy EXCLUSIVELY when using basswood or ply fins.
Epoxy penetrates the wood much better than any "wood" glue. With TTW fins, Titebond may be fine, but NOT surface mounted.
__________________
When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!! Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't ! Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY. ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, TURMOIL, FIASCOS, and HAVOC ! |
#7
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Quote:
I mostly agree with stefanj and GH. I agree that it's a bit harder to cut, but I've never had any problems sanding it. I think that since it is a bit harder, it's a bit more forgiving than balsa when rounding or tapering edges. Epoxy is the only way to go when surface mounting the fins. My only negative is it seems to be a bit brittle sometimes and fins will crack on a hard landing, but balsa does that too.
__________________
Dave Fire is the leading cause of fire. Was once SAM#0132 |
#8
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ditto ,, i've had issues with it cracking real easily before ,,,mabey it was the grade or grain I was using. Or mabey it was just dried out
so I still like the papered balsa best for strength and lightness |
#9
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Thanks for all of the advice on basswood.
I've carved out my first basswood set. I'm putting them on my LAST #2001 SV. I thought it may be a good idea to use the basswood on the SV because a) the model already weighs a ton, b) the SV's fins are some of the hardest to replace if damaged, c) I'll be able to sand a razor-thin taper into the tighter grain (I'm not quite done sanding them yet.) They are indeed harder to cut. Mary was able to stop the bleeding but not the swearing.
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#10
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Quote:
Those are beautiful leading edges- mind if I ask for details on your technique? Also, unless you're amazingly precise (it happens to others, not to me!), how thick are those fins? Please tell me they're 3/4"!!! |
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