#31
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Quote:
The last pack I bought for decals was Avery Sticker Project Paper. It's still a full 8.5x11 and says it's removable, but it stuck just fine to the Vampire. I used Krylon Crystal Clear with UV protection to seal them. I gave them a dusting coat, let it dry, then another dusting, etc. so that it didn't cause washout into the paper. The resulting decals have a satin texture, but it's better than running.
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I love sanding. |
#32
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I'm using Office Max brand inkjet, white fullsheet labels. It says same size as Avery template 8165tm
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#33
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Elmer's School Glue and standard copy paper have worked fine for me. I don't even bother with an even layer of glue -- I just smear it on so the entire fin surface is covered, put the paper on and then leave it under books for at least a day. I've also had great success rolling motor tubes and body tubes using standard 110# cardstock and a glue stick.
In my opinion, necessity combined with a healthy dose of poverty is actually the mother of invention.
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Trash Can Rocketry |
#34
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Self adhesive or copy bond I would still wrap across the LE as referenced previously. I think it makes for a more reliable LE less prone to delam.
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Gravity is a harsh mistress SAM 002 NAR 91005 "The complexity of living is eminently favored to the simplicity of not." |
#35
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Dry Glue Lamination
Was wondering if any have applied the tube making routine described in Hans "Chris" Michielssen's http://www.howtobuildmodelrockets.20m.com/ tutorial. I would imagine the dry glue/hot iron would limit water absorption and warping in fin stock but have yet to try. Another method I did try with some success was bonding wrapping tissue/thin paper to fins by sandwiching plastic wrap and then hot dry ironing. Actually got that one from a scrapbooking website (no I don't partake). My next build is a Blue Bird Zero one-off called Red Bird One. I think I will try one of these methods or the freezer paper.
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#36
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I've used the dry glue/hot iron method putting printed wraps on BT-5's for Micro-Maxx rockets. It works pretty good. I used a small iron used for applying R/C airplane covering.
As for freezer/butcher paper, I've recently tried it. It worked pretty good laying down the way Luke Strawalker described. Priming was fine with no bubbling, etc. However, the paint peeled off, primer and all, when I removed tape on a masking job. I was a bit peeved. I already had a couple more rockets papered, so I took sandpaper to the fins and scuffed up the freezer paper. I will see how that goes on the next masking job. It will be a few days, because I'm having to paint with enamels due to the high humidity.
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I love sanding. |
#37
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I've wondered about that... I haven't tried papering with freezer paper myself-- I find regular printer paper to work EXCELLENTLY. I've heard good results from others about the freezer paper, but I wondered about the plastic coating and whether it would 'play nice' with paints (such as adhesion, bond, etc.) Sorry for your troubles there but thanks for sharing-- might be another thing to consider when contemplating using the plastic-coated freezer paper... lateR! OL JR
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#38
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I'll Quit trying to be fancy
Well, the plastic wrap sandwich melt needs a little work - spotty adhesion (better to experiment with different brands for better adhesion). I have abandoned this method for now. The freezer paper sounds promising but would probably pre-laminate AND Paint before attaching fins - should I try the for plastic formula?
Anyway, I opted for rustoleum auto primer sanded, followed by fill n finish sanded, and last sealed with a thinned elmers wash for that nice shell that paint sticks so nicely to. Wish I could print a white decal - maybe I'll stencil Here's a drawing of what I hope will be my latest success. |
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