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  #11  
Old 11-05-2018, 03:26 PM
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tbzep tbzep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghrocketman
Smells a lot better than enamel or urethane.

Enamel is too fruity. I love the smell of volatiles in the morning! Smells like.....[s]victory[/s] brain damage.

We could do a TRF game, ranking in order of desired scents. Hoppes #9, lacquer thinner/paint, gasoline (not on skin), acetone, Tennax 7-R, kerosene, etc.
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  #12  
Old 11-05-2018, 06:34 PM
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tbzep sez:

"Enamel is too fruity. I love the smell of volatiles in the morning! Smells like.....[s]victory[/s] brain damage.

We could do a TRF game, ranking in order of desired scents. Hoppes #9, lacquer thinner/paint, gasoline (not on skin), acetone, Tennax 7-R, kerosene, etc. "

I am "glued" to this thread.

Chas
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  #13  
Old 11-05-2018, 08:36 PM
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What one smells in Hoppes #9 is Nitrobenzene. It's that "Shoe Polish" aroma.
I have cases of "Nitro 9" 6oz gasoline additive cans that are pure Nitrobenzene.
Mixed with 2-stroke gas, it packs a real kick.
Has not been available for decades due to mamby pamby EPA.

I HATE the Methylene Chloride aroma of Tenax 7R. I use it because it's the best.
Aromas I find best are in order:
MIBK, Acetone, Toluene, MEK, Nitrobenzene, Nitromethane, AV100LL/racing leaded gasoline, Xylene, and Turpentine.
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  #14  
Old 11-07-2018, 11:03 PM
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I like Rusto "Wet Sandable" primer (don't recall what else it's called, maybe the 2x, been awhile since I looked at a can) because it's a high build primer and I can "damp sand" (wet sanding but blotting the wet sandpaper on a towel to limit water on the rocket) and get glass-smooth finishes that take and hold paint well-- no color sanding required.

For color coats, I use a little bit of everything. On scale and semi-scale rockets that use a black and white color scheme, I like the WalMart Colorplace 99 cent a can stuff... it actually does a TERRIFIC job in those applications *if* you've prepared the surface well with the wet sandable primer (ie if you can see an imperfection in the primer finish, you'll see it in the color coat; that's true of ALL color coats though).

For other colors beside the VERY basic selection of WM Colorplace, I usually use Rusto or Duplicolor, or even some of the ag paints from Tractor Supply or other farm stores. The auto supply paints are also very good.

I picked up an external mix airbrush cheap at TSC, and an internal mix single action on closeout at HL and intend to give them a try sooner or later.

The main thing to AVOID LIKE THE PLAGUE is the "primer and paint in one" crap... it TOTALLY misses the point of the primer coat-- which is to fill the imperfections and prepare as perfect a surface as possible for paint. You can't DO that putting the "primer and paint in one" because an ESSENTIAL step in surface prep is sanding out the primer. I start with about 2-3 coats of primer, and sand it down with 220, then switch to 440 grit wet/dry paper, dry sand it, then get a bowl of water and dip the paper in it, blot it on a towel, and "damp sand" it with the damp paper. You'd be amazed at how nicely it smooths out the surface. If you REALLY want it smooth, switch to 600 and damp sand it-- you can LITERALLY get it mirror-finish with primer. I hold it up to the light glint from a window across the house, and look at the reflection of the light (the glint) off the side of the rocket, turning it slowly and inspecting it. If you can see any imperfections in the sanded out primer, you'll see it in the final color coat. Fix the problem right then, get a good smooth imperfection-free finish with the primer, and DON'T SCREW UP PUTTING ON THE COLOR COAT (ie no drips or runs or orange peel) and color sanding is TOTALLY unnecessary-- the finish will be perfect.

Now, some guys will say, "What about tooth?? If the primer is TOO smooth it won't hold onto the color coat, and it'll turn loose or peel over time." I can honestly say I've never had that happen... I've got rockets finished that way over 10 years old and they are still looking great. The primer, even if it *looks* glossy, still has enough "tooth" in that it's permeable (microscopic pores, which is why cars running around in a primer coat will rust under the primer-- the color coat "seals it off" and when it hasn't been painted with a color coat yet, the moisture can go straight through the primer to the metal beneath... and no, damp sanding doesn't hurt the rocket-- it's not enough water or enough time to damage anything-- just sand lightly let the paper do the work; as the sandpaper shaves down the primer the liberated primer particles grab the water and turn into "sanding mud" on the surface of the tube and fins-- periodically wipe it off with a damp paper towel, then dry it with a dry paper towel, dip the paper in water and rub your finger across it until all the particles come loose, blot the sandpaper off on a towel, and go again... the "sanding mud" will get thicker and thicker as you work, as water evaporates and more and more particles sanded off will 'suck up' the moisture... Anyway, the paint can still "grip" the smooth primer enough to stay... in my experience anyway.

Works for me!

Later! OL J R
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  #15  
Old 11-08-2018, 10:55 AM
astronwolf astronwolf is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghrocketman
What one smells in Hoppes #9 is Nitrobenzene. It's that "Shoe Polish" aroma.

There is no nitrobenzene in Hoppes #9. The characteristic odor of Hoppes #9 comes from isoamyl acetate - it's that banana odor. The primary ingredients are acetone, ethanol, and kerosene.
http://www.hoppes.com/Hoppes/files/...057a9f5b1de.pdf
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  #16  
Old 11-08-2018, 11:03 AM
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Hoppes Nitro #9 USED to contain Nitrobenzene.
It has not for about the past 10 years.
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  #17  
Old 11-08-2018, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghrocketman
Hoppes Nitro #9 USED to contain Nitrobenzene.
It has not for about the past 10 years.

And you can easily tell the difference. I savor the old bottle.
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  #18  
Old 11-08-2018, 01:50 PM
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I have a large quart bottle of the old Hoppes Nitro 9.
Removes barrel Lead residue about 100X better than the current crapola.
I'm sure some Cali enviro-WHACKO would try to force the dirty Lead/Nitrobenzene laden patches to be treated as hazz-mutt waste too....NUTHIN DOOIN.
They are TRASH for the 55gal BURNER BARREL just as if it was 1958.
I'd much rather ban ENVIRO-WHACKOS and the entire EPA than 95% of what they have gotten banned.
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and NEVER touch the brake !!!
No Harm=NO Foul advocate

If you are NOT FLYING LOW in the left lane, you need to GET THE #$&@ OUT of it !

Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL
, if you have to ask, you probably aren't
!
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  #19  
Old 11-08-2018, 10:01 PM
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The old formula Krylon (called Interior-Exterior) is available mailorder. Krylon has rebranded it Acryli-Quik. Itís an acrylic lacquer. Unfortunately, you have to buy it by the case (6 cans). Many places have free shipping with a minimum order amount. Fullsource.com is $99, I think zoro.com is $50.
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  #20  
Old 11-09-2018, 02:37 PM
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If you have to use rattle-cans, hobby grade Testors/Model Master and Tamiya are FAR superior to any "hardware store" sized cans of RustO or Krylon. I won't even bother with off/store brand guff. Often it results in a REfinish with something decent.
If you have to use "big can" brands, I find ORIGINAL Rust Oleum to be the best.
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and NEVER touch the brake !!!
No Harm=NO Foul advocate

If you are NOT FLYING LOW in the left lane, you need to GET THE #$&@ OUT of it !

Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL
, if you have to ask, you probably aren't
!
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