#31
|
||||
|
||||
With the mention of CA in this thread, I'd urge everyone to wear eye protection when using it!
Mike Hellmund of Estes years ago told of having a drop of CA a get into his eye. Fortunately, it landed on his contact lens. Fogged it and it had to be thrown away. His eye was fine. That story scared the "you know what" out of me. I wear safety glasses whenever I'm in my shop, and when on the lathe, and most of my stationary power tools, I wear a face mask. i worked with someone who was turning alabaster on his lathe, and it flew apart. His jaw was broken. In retrospect, he was lucky he didn't lose an eye. OK, now back to happy thoughts ... 😀
__________________
Lee Reep NAR 55948 Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, Ken Foss Designs Mini Satellite Interceptor In the Paint Shop: Nothing! Too cold! Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp |
#32
|
|||
|
|||
I don't know if I have the guts to just coat with Elmer's and then a light sand. What will the guys at the club think? What will all the time spent reading over on the other forum be good for?
I just finished the Roachworks Nike Hercules and I used the Luke Strawwalker techniques on all that lumba. The good old boys expect it to look like glass and be tough as nails. All that nose weight in the brittle CA'ed cone bouncing back and smashing into lord knows what! OMG I am so scared, a big Estes smile or dent and I will be crushed. With an image left in tatters all I will be able to do in the future will be to bulletproof to the max, 100% insuring against having to cry in the truck cab do to my rocket being damaged. |
#33
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
I was unaware that you could apply CWF on top of a CA'd surface, somehow I assumed it needed the porous wood surface to "grab" to. I had actually been considering (but haven't tried) using CWF first to fill the deep pits and then CA second for a hard surface. |
#34
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Doug .
__________________
YORF member #11 |
#35
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
That's how I've been doing it for a long time and haven't had any issues... (CA the balsa first, then brush on THINNED CWF, sand, then a few coats of primer, sand w/220, sand again w/440, damp sand with 440 W/D sandpaper dipped in water and shaken off, clean, dry, and then ready for paint). End results speak for themselves in my build threads here and elsewhere... for a specific photo-heavy step-by-step tutorial, look up my "Dr. Zooch EFT-1 beta-build thread", where I specifically described my techniques and processes along with photos in a step-by-step fashion. I haven't tried it the other way (filling with thinned CWF first, then followed by CA "hardening"). Honestly I've had no need to since the first method has worked so well. Might make for an interesting experiment however... Best of luck! OL JR
__________________
The X-87B Cruise Basselope-- THE Ultimate Weapon in the arsenal of Homeland Security and only $52 million per round! |
#36
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Good thoughts, Gordy! Thanks for sharing! You specifically mentioned Elmer's white glue. Thinking this through, since yellow glue tends to dry (relatively) harder than white glue, it seems that it would be harder to sand any "extra" white glue. Yes? YORF Hivemind, please weigh in and confirm/deny my suspicions, if you would. Thanks in advance!
__________________
Jay Goemmer "Centuri Guy"/"Tau Zero" YORF Member 28 Semroc SAM #0029 NAR 86131 "I think about organizing things all the time. Never seems to happen. I find something that piques my interest and I'm off on a quest. Or a Centuri. " --Bill Eichelberger, 02/22/2022 “Centuri fret buzz in an updated form.” Bill “Wallyum” Eichelberger re: Estes Flutter-By 03 Sept 2014 |
#37
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
I tried yellow carpenters glue and the results were disappointing. It came out with lumps and ridges that were so hard to remove I wound up sanding down to the wood. I'll never do that again! Elmer's lays pretty flat and is pretty much self leveling. Besides Elmer's is so freakin' cheap and available anywhere, why use anything else.
__________________
"I'm a sandman. I've never killed anyone. I terminate runners when their time is up." Logan from "Logan's Run" http://sandmandecals.com/ |
#38
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Thanks for the clarification! I thought I'd ask before I loaded up a bunch of nose cones with yellow glue. Cheers and blessings,
__________________
Jay Goemmer "Centuri Guy"/"Tau Zero" YORF Member 28 Semroc SAM #0029 NAR 86131 "I think about organizing things all the time. Never seems to happen. I find something that piques my interest and I'm off on a quest. Or a Centuri. " --Bill Eichelberger, 02/22/2022 “Centuri fret buzz in an updated form.” Bill “Wallyum” Eichelberger re: Estes Flutter-By 03 Sept 2014 |
#39
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Great post. I use the same technique, except that I use Weldbond, which is another white glue. Sometimes DAP RapidFuse (CA) on the ends of the root to tack it in place quickly. The Fliskit Tres you sold me - I was going to use System3 Epoxy to fill the nose cone. Now it seems only right that I try white glue. |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|