|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
The Art of Tissuing
I mentioned tissuing in another thread and really recommend it. You can't beat using Jap tissue and dope to cover large balsa surfaces. The work is minimal and the surface is smooth and strong. I initially used Jap tissue on competition BG's, but it works great on sport models as well. I use Bob Park's instructions from the October 1970 issue of Model Rocketry magazine. You can download it from Sven's Ninfinger.org site.
__________________
Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
I still have lots of high quality Japanese tissue left over from my "stick and tissue" FF airplane days. I would like an alternative to the dope though. That stuff really stinks and you need a well ventilated are when using it. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
alternative to the dope
As long as you are not using it on an airplane. 70% white glue to 30% water will work. Its too heavy for use on stick and tissue planes but for rockets it not enough of a weight problem. Sometimes you will have to play with mixture depending on brand of glue though.
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
You could try using a thinned down white glue for the leading and trailing edges and a glue stick (the purple ones that dry clear) for the fin surface. I use the glue sticks to adhere the tissue to the wings and the fuselage of all of my ff planes. It works quite nicely without the wrinkling you may get from using the thinned white glue on a large flat surface. EJS |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Thanks for the tip. I happen to have one of those glue sticks so I'll give it a try. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Another possibility that I picked up in my model airplane days is light glass cloth.
Get some 2oz glass cloth, a bottle of 3M (or similar) spray adhesive, a bottle of thin cyano glue, some laminating epoxy resin, some paper towels, and some 200 grit sandpaper. Lightly spray the balsa with the spray adhesive. Cut some glass cloth to size. Stick the glass cloth onto the balsa (it should lightly stick due to the spray adhesive). Make sure the glass is touching the balsa (ie no "bubbles"). Dribble on enough cyano to wet the cloth. Let cure. Mix epoxy and apply to glass. Blot out excess epoxy. Let epoxy cure. Sand lightly with 200 grit paper, finish using your favorite method. This method adds very little weight but adds a lot of "toughness" to the balsa structure. IIRC I picked it up in "Flying Models" magazine back in 1989 or so. |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Welcome aboard, dosco! Good to see a fellow winger with the craving for BP... I'd be careful about using 2 oz cloth... You might prefer to use 0.75 oz, or even 0.6 oz, cloth instead. 2 oz is very heavy stuff, and soaks up resin like a sponge. Might be OK for models using, say, I-N power ranges, but not for 1/2A - F. Alternatives would be silk, or even silkspan. Craig McGraw Last edited by CPMcGraw : 06-30-2005 at 12:21 PM. Reason: Added commentary |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Stinks, well ventilated work area? Whazzat man? Nuttin' happened to me from using dope. I got no dain bramage. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Yeah, man. That stuff can, like, do stuff to your stuff, man. Any more of those chocolate chip cookies left?
__________________
Bill Eichelberger NAR 79563 http://wallyum.blogspot.com/ I miss being SAM 0058 Build floor: Centuri Mini Dactyl Estes - Low Boom SST Semroc - Marauder, Shrike, SST Shuttle In paint: Canaroc Starfighter Scorpion Estes F-22 Air Superiority Fighter, Multi-Roc, Solar Sailer II, Xarconian Cruiser Semroc Cyber III Ready to fly: Estes - Solar Sailer II Semroc - Earmark, Groonie Der V 1/2 |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|