#61
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Lol...no problem! Actually, I'd forgotten Moldin' Oldies had them. STA also has a unique nose cone that has a molded in panel line detail. Pt # 0033141 |
#62
|
|||
|
|||
I can't tell by the pdf that there are any scribe lines, i figured it was just a standard bertha nose cone. Do you have any pics or a drawn diagram of where those indentations are ?
|
#63
|
||||
|
||||
The nose, while essentially the same as a Bertha nose in shape, does indeed have some indentation lines. They demarcate 1/3rd of the nose cone area, the lines extending to the airframe as the area to be painted as the heat shield for the model. On the nose, the lines proceed to about 3/8" from the nose tip, where they are then connected by a radial indentation marking the limits of the nose radome.
__________________
John YORF #003 SAM #004 |
#64
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
No, I'm sorry, I don't. If I did have one I'd be happy to loan it to you, same with the body wraps. I only have the Estes Nose Cone Reference 10.1 by John Brohm to go by. This is the excerpt: Kit Number 1338* Kit Name Space Transporter America * The Space Transporter America uses a two-piece injection molded nose identical to the PNC-60L, except for an indented panel line that is molded into the nose, and a different part number, P/N 033141. The presently available PNC-60MS could be used as a substitute to clone the model. What I do have (I actually have two) is the Centuri ALCM Cruise Missile # 5330, which might be an ideal candidate for cloning by 3D printing. I may consider lending one of the kits for such a purpose. |
#65
|
|||
|
|||
How does this nosecone look?
|
#66
|
|||
|
|||
|
#67
|
||||
|
||||
Has anyone else tried printing the free model rocket from Additive Aerospace? https://www.additiveaerospace.com/p...ce-model-rocket
I printed out a copy using PLA filament (2 layer thicknesses, 0.2mm resolution, 0.4mm nozzle) see attached photo. The 3D printed model rocket weighs around 80 grams total with parachute and shock cord. I flew the model on a C6-3 motor as suggested by RockSim (I can post the simulation file if anyone is interested). The flight was great, nearly straight up, and looked to be close to the 700' AGL rocksim predicted. The model came down nice on the 18" plastic parachute I used. Upon recovery the fin can was bent (see the other 2 pictures attached). The spent motor was welded into the motor mount and had to be removed by unwinding the paper casing from the inside. I intend to try PET, a higher temperature filament, for my next attempt at a totally 3D printed rocket. I have now stored several 3D printed nosecones made out of PLA filament in a hot car for most of the day (temperatures above 90F outside) and have not seen any warping. Incidentally, the model in the picture is in front of the my 2 attempts at 3D printing a 4 inch diameter by 30 inch long (including shoulder) nosecone for my LOC/Precision Iris. I modified my Ender 2 printert to have a 920mm bed height. Both of the long nosecone prints fell off the printer bed before completion. Obviously I haven't got all the issues resolved with this printer modification, but I am still working on it. The completed conical nose cone on the left of the 2 failed 3D prints is a 13 inch long PLA cone I used to convert my Estes Panavia into a Cherokee D like clone.
__________________
Bruce S. Levison, NAR #69055 |
#68
|
|||
|
|||
I have flown quite a few 3d printed rockets (its my thing 54 3d printers and climbing yeah gearbest is crazy :-)
anyway the trick is quite simple really. paper tube up the center. that's it. everything else can be plastic (mounts retention cr's all of it) I even 3d print 13 18 24 and 29mm motor retainers though I have not tested the 13 and 18mm yet. all you have to do is design the model to accept a paper tube up the center so the engine and ejection charge never directly dance with the plastic and your golden. also use a stand off so splash back off the deflector plate does not mingle with the plastic. |
#69
|
|||
|
|||
[QUOTE=teflonrocketry1]When I got my Ender 2 3D printer the first thing I did was print the 3 modifications that everyone seems to suggest; a 1mm shim for the Z axis motor, a Vrail stabilizer for the Z axis lead screw
get rid of this. it will only cause you pain in the long run. the lead screw should never be locked down. ie do not "fix" the top end of the lead screw. in a perfect world.... not a perfect world $200 printer. by locking down the lead screw you turn your kinematics into "framing" since the lead screw is rigid. this means if the lead screw is not "PERFECTLY" straight and "perfectly" aligned with the vertical rail you will have 2 forces acting in opposition as the lead screw shimmies around and pushes and pulls on the vertical rail and by extension your X arm and carriage assembly IE z banding. you can install the little bracket just make sure the hole for the lead screw is large enough that it can wiggle around a couple of mm's if it wants too this way it won't transfer force to the rest of the printer and therefore your print. its one of the easiest mods to make to a tevo printer (tornado, michealangelo, flash) remove the 2 screws remove the bearing. leave the lead screw "free" much better prints. this is why if you look on creality printer the lead screw appears restrained but if you touch it you will see it can "wiggle around" in that mount. that is good. |
#70
|
|||
|
|||
If anyone has a nose cone idea, they want to try out, and need some help getting it cadded up, I am very willing to help you create and print it. I am bored and running out of my own ideas, and want to keep playing with the cad program. So if anyone has some WILD or FANTASTIC idea they want created, just shoot me a line.
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|