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  #11  
Old 03-11-2018, 09:36 PM
clhug clhug is offline
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 41
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Thanks all. Yes, I use Titebond II for my yellow wood glue for fins and launch lugs. (Used to use Elmer's Wood Glue which always worked fine, but I read in other threads that Titebond II sets up faster, so I'm trying that now.)

I'll see if I can find Titebond white glue. Elmer's white glue is just so easy to find everywhere, but yeah, with is separating all the time I'm ready to give up on it.

I've honestly never had a problem with the motor mount seizing up before I have it in place. But I do notice the tube shrinkage around it now that I read about it. (I never noticed it before, but once I read about it, I looked at some of my models, and sure enough, if I look closer I definitely see the shrinkage.)

I don't build very big rockets so I don't feel like epoxy is necessary for anything I build. I've never had anything come apart in flight of anything I've ever built before. Only thing I've had happen is the occasional fin popping off on landing.
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  #12  
Old 03-12-2018, 12:00 PM
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bernomatic bernomatic is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 1,098
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To remix the glues I've used, I just smack the container into the palm of my hand a dozen times or so, always does the trick
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  #13  
Old 03-12-2018, 12:52 PM
scigs30 scigs30 is offline
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Since Elmers changed their formula Ive been using Titebond Translucent wood glue, great stuff with fast grab and dries clear. Not that it is important in rocket building but I have discovered out of all the wood glues. Elmers glue all new formula sands the best when dry, go figure. Old Elmers Glue All was rubbery when dried and hard to sand. Just curious, what the product date is.
The packaging date code system is described as follows:
The first letter is the year the product was packaged (e.g., S=2012, T=2013, U=2014, [We skipped V because it looks too much like U] W=2015, etc.).
The next two numbers represent the day of the month the product was packaged.
The next letter represents the month the product was packaged (e.g., A=January, B=February, C=March, etc.).
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  #14  
Old 03-12-2018, 10:27 PM
olDave olDave is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 69
Default Not quite

Quote:
Originally Posted by luke strawwalker
I personally wouldn't rely on one aft fillet on the aft centering ring to lock the motor mount in place... under thrust this fillet will be in TENSION and prone to tearing away, which would allow the motor mount to shove itself up inside ........


You meant shear, not tension....right?

At any rate, I promise you that gluing one CR is more than sufficient to handle the thrust loads of low-power motors. If you would like to convince yourself, spend a few minutes and a few scraps from the build box and make a MMT, then install it inside some BT. Then add a dowel or length of cord glued to the inside of the MMT, and let everything dry thoroughly. Then, grab the BT in one hand and the dowel in the other hand and pull. It's gonna take a whole lot more than just a few pounds to tear apart, and the BT will be destroyed in the process....this goes way beyond the thrust loading levels of low-power motors.

But by all means, if you are a "belt-and-suspenders" kind of guy, glue the front CR also. It's easy to take your bamboo skewer and stick it through the front end of the BT to smear a little glue around the front CR, from the front side of that CR.
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