#11
|
|||
|
|||
To both J and Woody:
Please post pics if you can!! |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
|
#13
|
||||
|
||||
Place my order for one on Friday, hopefully when i get back from vaca i'll have it.
|
#14
|
||||
|
||||
Had a little time between calls so I have made an entry into the Asteroid Hunter bag. I think John is going for the balsa parts count record (between this and the QCC Explorer). The assembly of the balsa parts is very straightforward. The laser cutting and tolerance of the parts is very impressive. All I have had to do is sand of the nubs on the laser cut edge. Also remember that adhesives (CA for example) do not like charred wood. Use a white glue as recommended for the wood.
The parts identification is very good and there is one area in which you will double check the parts. The four stringers are paired top and bottom. The bottom pair contains two extra notches in which cross braces will be located. These are imporatnt sub-structure for the skin as the launch lugs locate above them. Check your Ys and Zs prior to installing them. The same is true of the forward and aft bulkhead supports U and V. These are used to set the bulkhead angles of the two pieces which make up each bulkhead. Still going to be a fun build. And for the smarty pants in the group; no, the fins are not yet attached.
__________________
Gravity is a harsh mistress SAM 002 NAR 91005 "The complexity of living is eminently favored to the simplicity of not." Last edited by jharding58 : 03-21-2012 at 06:11 PM. |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
I've built the structure on this model with both CA and Titebond glues so take your pick, since they will both work. I've also attached the thin card stock , "outer skins" with CA, Titebond and Tacky Glue. Tacky Glue works real nice since it's very thick and stays where you put it. Have fun with the build.
John Boren |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
Model airplane guys have taken to using UHU glue sticks -- the purple non-school variety -- to stick tissue to balsa frames. I'm not sure what the Asteroid Hunter uses as a skin, but that is something else to try.
__________________
NAR #27085 - Oregon Rocketry - SAM Last edited by stefanj : 03-21-2012 at 06:51 PM. |
#17
|
||||
|
||||
The space frame is balsa formers and stringers. You could pretty well build it in hand. A lot like some of the laser cut aricraft kits out there. The size of the parts is so closely toleranced that the pieces dry fit and then just add CA. As I said, the only caution is that thin CA does not wick through charred wood. It goes around it.
__________________
Gravity is a harsh mistress SAM 002 NAR 91005 "The complexity of living is eminently favored to the simplicity of not." |
#18
|
||||
|
||||
Looking for a little trim; the cardstock of course.
BTW, did you know that digital cameras will only count up to 9999 images and then recycle? They create a new folder and re-number from 0001. Bummer for my historical images.
__________________
Gravity is a harsh mistress SAM 002 NAR 91005 "The complexity of living is eminently favored to the simplicity of not." |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
Is the card stock a little over-sized?
|
#20
|
||||
|
||||
Yes, the card stock overhangs about 1/8th over the side edges and about 1/16th fore and aft. The alignment of the shroud is set by the fin cut-out and the longitudinal creases which follow the stringers. Pay careful attention to the drawing of the shroud attachment - you only want to put adhesive on the perimeter attachments. The forward mid doubler is well under the stringer line and should never see the skin. Also it helps to place the aft shroud for the motor tube with the seam towards the bottom. Helps you keep them oriented.
When you go to trim the excess make sure you use a brand new single edge razor blade. Place the blade flush with the side piece, angle the cutting edge about 45 degrees to the cut, then draw the blade toward you keeping the side of the blade running flush with the side piece. Do not try to tilt the blade too much or you will either cut too deeply into the shroud or dig into the balsa. I would also find a 12" long sanding block (the aluminum Tee bar or the Great Planes Easy Touch) you will need that to sand the frame prior to installing the shroud and to clean up the edges once trimmed. Those pesky dark holes in the side balsa pieces are not an issue. They are covered with a trim piece which runs from the leading edge to the front bulkhead. Also check the ring at the front end of the engine bell. Mine had a rather large lump which may foul the motor mount if not removed.
__________________
Gravity is a harsh mistress SAM 002 NAR 91005 "The complexity of living is eminently favored to the simplicity of not." |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|