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  #21  
Old 08-29-2013, 08:24 PM
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Mark II Mark II is offline
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The other day I got the idea of using soft ink stamps and stamp pad ink of various colors to decorate gliders. I was thinking of the cheap $0.35 balsa gliders that I used to get when I was a kid. They had details on them (cockpit outline, USAF insignia, etc.) that appeared to have been applied by stamping them with ink. Those simple gliders flew beautifully. The ink was bright and the printed details were big and bold, so they were quite visible at the 10'-25' altitudes that these gliders typically flew at.

It has always been my understanding that putting any paint, even a very light coat, on a glider would give it the flying characteristics and sink rate of a brick. That Fake Wulf that Bob H posted is truly a thing of beauty, though, and I am very heartened to hear that yes, if it is carefully applied using the right type, one can actually give a glider a full paint job and still see it glide. I am very interested in experimenting with it in my gliders now.
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Last edited by Mark II : 08-29-2013 at 08:40 PM.
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  #22  
Old 08-29-2013, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackshire
An excellent idea! While today's gliders of that type that Guillow makes today may be machine-printed, I wouldn't be at all surprised if the North Pacific, Guillow, and other bagged balsa gliders were hand-stamped 'back in the day.' I lost some North Pacific "Strato" gliders due to their high performance.
Well, given the very low price, I suspect that the gliders I bought were machine printed, using a couple of soft stampers.
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  #23  
Old 08-29-2013, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark II
The other day I got the idea of using soft ink stamps and stamp pad ink of various colors to decorate gliders. I was thinking of the cheap $0.35 balsa gliders that I used to get when I was a kid. They had details on them (cockpit outline, USAF insignia, etc.) that appeared to have been applied by stamping them with ink. Those simple gliders flew beautifully. The ink was bright and the printed details were big and bold, so they were quite visible at the 10'-25' altitudes that these gliders typically flew at.
An excellent idea! While today's gliders of that type that Guillow makes today may be machine-printed, I wouldn't be at all surprised if the North Pacific, Guillow, and other bagged balsa gliders were hand-stamped 'back in the day.' I lost some North Pacific "Strato" gliders due to their high performance. As well:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark II
It has always been my understanding that putting any paint, even a very light coat, on a glider would give it the flying characteristics and sink rate of a brick. That Fake Wulf that Bob H posted is truly a thing of beauty, though, and I am very heartened to hear that yes, if it is carefully applied using the right type, one can actually give a glider a full paint job and still see it glide. I am very interested in experimenting with it in my gliders now.
It didn't bother my father's Estes Astron Falcon at all; it had just enough orange lacquer paint sprayed on it to color it. The Estes Space Plane, Sky Dart, Orbital Transport, Scissor Wing SST, (mini motor) Condor, ARV Condor, Multi-Roc, and Firefly boost-gliders also had/have full paint schemes with decals.
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  #24  
Old 08-30-2013, 11:54 AM
shockwaveriderz shockwaveriderz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackshire
Do you use "un-doctored" dope, or do you add a few drops of castor oil to it so that it won't make the tissue shrink? If it shrinks, it can warp sheet balsa boost-glider wings.

I didn't use dope that time, I used polyarcylic undiluted...it completely waterproofed the glider surfaces....


In the few times I have used dope, and it's been literally 5+ years , i didn't use any castor oil to prevent any shrinkage.

Terry Dean
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  #25  
Old 08-31-2013, 04:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shockwaveriderz
I didn't use dope that time, I used polyarcylic undiluted...it completely waterproofed the glider surfaces....


In the few times I have used dope, and it's been literally 5+ years , i didn't use any castor oil to prevent any shrinkage.

Terry Dean
Thank you. I don't know what polyacrylic is. Is it a modern substitute for butyrate and nitrate dopes for use on model airplane tissue and/or silkspan wing & fuselage coverings, or is it a bonding agent related to cyanoacrylate (CA)? Its waterproofing trait sounds very useful, especially for flying on dew-dampened grass fields.
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http://www.lulu.com/content/paperba...an-form/8075185
http://www.lulu.com/product/cd/what...of-2%29/6122050
http://www.lulu.com/product/cd/what...of-2%29/6126511
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  #26  
Old 08-31-2013, 08:28 AM
shockwaveriderz shockwaveriderz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackshire
Thank you. I don't know what polyacrylic is. Is it a modern substitute for butyrate and nitrate dopes for use on model airplane tissue and/or silkspan wing & fuselage coverings, or is it a bonding agent related to cyanoacrylate (CA)? Its waterproofing trait sounds very useful, especially for flying on dew-dampened grass fields.


http://www.minwax.com/wood-products...otective-finish

Terry Dean
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  #27  
Old 08-31-2013, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shockwaveriderz
Ah--having always had carpeted floors and upholstered furniture (with mostly metal/glass items like coffee tables & floor lamps), we never used such products (it would be like a Rug Doctor in a house with Terrazo floors). :-)
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Black Shire--Draft horse in human form, model rocketeer, occasional mystic, and writer, see:
http://www.lulu.com/content/paperba...an-form/8075185
http://www.lulu.com/product/cd/what...of-2%29/6122050
http://www.lulu.com/product/cd/what...of-2%29/6126511
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