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  #11  
Old 02-21-2014, 10:08 PM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
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I might just have to pick up one of these 'flying brick' Titan IIIC's for flying on the Aerotech D10/13/21/24 engines.
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  #12  
Old 02-22-2014, 07:04 AM
Brent Brent is offline
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Order placed through Hobbylinc for a Vostok and a Titan. They have them each listed twice, priced at 28.68 at 20% off and at 25.19 at 28% off. I used the add to cart for the 25.19 listing.
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  #13  
Old 02-22-2014, 12:38 PM
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Thanks for the post on the parts, glad to see the Fins are included for the flight ready version. I wonder if the clear fins are still included on the Titan III version. Just orderd the vostok off of Ebay for 27.68 shipped.
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  #14  
Old 02-22-2014, 04:21 PM
grog grog is offline
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Tower Hobbies also has the kits for $26.99. Also, I used coupon code 01A13 when I ordered for free shipping. I am not sure how long that coupon is valid.
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  #15  
Old 02-23-2014, 10:31 AM
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Here are the best deal I have found on the new MPC Vostok and Titan IIIc.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MPC-792-RUS...D3907 72333059

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MPC-Titan-R...D1611 67408468
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  #16  
Old 02-27-2014, 07:08 PM
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Ok I got my Vostok out, and started gluing things together, so I could test fit the T20 tube. Found out the T20 needs to be about 8in long, this will still allow the motor mount tube to stick out about 1/4 in. But in looking at this, the top part of the main body tube is almost T25, or bt50 size, rather than use the T20 stuffer tube, I think I will line mine with a thin coat of epoxy to help protect and seal all seams of the plastic, and sand out the T20 stop with my dremel, so I can have more usable space for recovery equipment.
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  #17  
Old 02-28-2014, 09:39 AM
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hcmbanjo hcmbanjo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeyd
Ok I got my Vostok out, and started gluing things together, so I could test fit the T20 tube. Found out the T20 needs to be about 8in long, this will still allow the motor mount tube to stick out about 1/4 in. But in looking at this, the top part of the main body tube is almost T25, or bt50 size, rather than use the T20 stuffer tube, I think I will line mine with a thin coat of epoxy to help protect and seal all seams of the plastic, and sand out the T20 stop with my dremel, so I can have more usable space for recovery equipment.


Hi Mikeyd,

The original central tube was an MPC 20mm tube.
A slightly larger diameter and thicker walled than a Estes BT-20.
The attached picture shows the front and rear of the model build from the instructions in the original "Fly or Display" kit.
The interior 20mm tube is 9" long. Quest sells the 20mm tubes.
That tube sticks out the back (probably to get the engine flame and heat away from the boosters and nozzle plate) by 3/4".
The interior engine mount "shim" tube extends 1/4" beyond that.
That interior engine sleeve is slid and glued in so the fit of an engine won't be loose in the 20mm tube.
The whole thing, the tube in tube hangs out the back by 1" total. (That's just the tubes out the back, not including the engine hook)

The front of the tube butts up against the interior molded ring in the adapter shoulder with the lug attached. See the inset picture on the right.

You can certainly use a BT-20 tube but you might want to make some thin centering rings or something to widen the outside diameter for a better fit.
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  #18  
Old 02-28-2014, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hcmbanjo
Hi Mikeyd,

The original central tube was an MPC 20mm tube.
A slightly larger diameter and thicker walled than a Estes BT-20.


Sorry you may not have understood, I did not say BT20, I said T20 the Quest 20mm tube, which fits in the rocket and buts up against the stop, as you say, and a bt20 slides inside of it.
I was wrong on the length looks like it is 9in not 8in

What I am suggesting is use just enough of the t20, and bt20, to mount the motor mount in the base of the model, then take my dremel and take out the stop at the top, smoothing out the inside, and coat the inside with a thin coat of epoxy, leaving the "almost" 24mm size at the top of the model as a larger area for parachutes. The pictures show a 24mm motor fits in the top, while the 2nd photo shows the body, to T20 to BT20 to 18mm motor.
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Last edited by mikeyd : 02-28-2014 at 08:05 PM.
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  #19  
Old 02-28-2014, 10:28 PM
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hcmbanjo hcmbanjo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeyd
Sorry you may not have understood, I did not say BT20, I said T20 the Quest 20mm tube, which fits in the rocket and buts up against the stop, as you say, and a bt20 slides inside of it.
I was wrong on the length looks like it is 9in not 8in

What I am suggesting is use just enough of the t20, and bt20, to mount the motor mount in the base of the model, then take my dremel and take out the stop at the top, smoothing out the inside, and coat the inside with a thin coat of epoxy, leaving the "almost" 24mm size at the top of the model as a larger area for parachutes. The pictures show a 24mm motor fits in the top, while the 2nd photo shows the body, to T20 to BT20 to 18mm motor.


Sorry about that, the only vendor I knew that called them T20s is BMS.
His T20 tubes are the same as the BT-20.
If you've got the Quest style 20mm tubes you'll get the best fit.

Your plan for more room for the parachute space is a good one. The MPC kit had a 20" thin Mylar chute. How they got that in that small area is beyond me!
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  #20  
Old 02-28-2014, 10:38 PM
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Shreadvector Shreadvector is offline
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Plastic model unprotected by internal body tube will melt from ejection charge and delay afterburn (which looks like a highway flare flame coming out of the top of the motor after the ejection charge has fired).
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