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  #11  
Old 05-05-2005, 09:32 AM
Ltvscout Ltvscout is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPMcGraw
I also sand the tube first until the outer layer of glassine is "flat", or all of the gloss has been removed. You should actually be raising a powder from the surface. This lets the FNF 'bite' into the paper, as well as making the spiral groove lower in profile.

Craig,

Do you use 220-grit for this initial sand as well?
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  #12  
Old 05-05-2005, 03:12 PM
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CPMcGraw CPMcGraw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ltvscout
Craig,

Do you use 220-grit for this initial sand as well?


For the initial sanding, yes. It's not so coarse that it cuts down into the fibers of the paper, but it is aggressive enough to cut the glassine layer. You can *raise powder* quite easily with 220, both with the white [Euclid] tubes and the old-style brown tubes...

I've found 220-grit is also a good general purpose paper for doing not only the glassine sanding, but for the first balsa sanding and the first few primer sandings. Once the primer looks smooth, like after the second or third coat, then I switch to 400-grit, spray a coat, and finally switch to a 600-grit for the final sanding. I don't take it down any farther than 600, but I suppose one could for a laquer-based finish...


Craig...
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  #13  
Old 01-15-2006, 12:36 AM
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Tau Zero Tau Zero is offline
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Exclamation "And now, to review what we've learned..."

Okay, I just spent awhile looking back at this thread, and I think I've boiled down the process to "Almost 3 (okay, 4) Easy Steps!"

1. Using 220 grit sandpaper, sand "naked" body tube.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CPMcGraw
I also sand the tube first until the outer layer of glassine is "flat", or all of the gloss has been removed. You should actually be raising a powder from the surface.


2. Apply Fill N' Finish.

Quote:
This lets the FNF 'bite' into the paper, as well as making the spiral groove lower in profile. The FNF doesn't have so much water in it that it damages the tube, but you do need the compound to work its way into the fibers, and it can't do that when it's thick.

DON'T apply this OVER the primer -- it won't adhere as well, because it doesn't have the chance to get into the fibers of the paper, and could fall out of the cracks after it's been painted. You want the FNF anchored to the paper.

Don't be afraid to thin the FNF a little more than you think is reasonable. [snip] Slather it on the whole tube liberally.
When this dries fully and you sand it with 220-grit, the tube should now be completely 'stained' to a light tan. This is a good indicator you've adhered to the tube. [snip] But this is usually all you need to do before priming.


3. Sand excess Fill N' Finish with 220-grit sandpaper.

4. Apply primer to body tube, sanding after each coat.


Now, I think I can patter off on my merry little way... --Yes?


Cheers,

--Jay

Last edited by CenturiGuy : 01-15-2006 at 12:46 AM. Reason: Adding those annoying colo(u)rs for emphasis!
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  #14  
Old 01-15-2006, 01:56 PM
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CPMcGraw CPMcGraw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CenturiGuy
Okay, I just spent awhile looking back at this thread, and I think I've boiled down the process to "Almost 3 (okay, 4) Easy Steps!"

1. Using 220 grit sandpaper, sand "naked" body tube.
2. Apply Fill N' Finish.
3. Sand excess Fill N' Finish with 220-grit sandpaper.
4. Apply primer to body tube, sanding after each coat.


Sounds like a plan, Jay.

For catalog-finish models, you might repeat steps 2 & 3 "as needed". FNF sticks to itself reasonably well...

Since I don't yet have a catalog to finish, I usually just apply FNF once...
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  #15  
Old 01-15-2006, 04:42 PM
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Red face "For that *Fine* Catalog Finish..."

Quote:
Originally Posted by CPMcGraw
For catalog-finish models, you might repeat steps 2 & 3 "as needed". FNF sticks to itself reasonably well...

Since I don't yet have a catalog to finish, I usually just apply FNF once...
Yeah, but you know *me,* Craig. If I wasn't so stinkin' picky about my finishing techniques in my second incarnation as a rocketeer, I'd actually get more rockets *built*... ...*If* ya know what I mean.


Cheers,

--Jay
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  #16  
Old 01-26-2006, 05:30 PM
Enign Blather Enign Blather is offline
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Default Where to get this stuff (Fill N Finish)

I can't seem to find this Fill N Finish anywhere. All the shops around me have is the heavyier crap- E832, et. all.

There is one hobby shop that has a Hobbico product. It looks like spackle and has "Micro-balloons". Anyone know if this will work as well as FNF?

Thanks,
EB
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  #17  
Old 01-26-2006, 08:20 PM
Eagle3 Eagle3 is offline
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No, micro balloons isn't the same. I've used micro balloons mixed with epoxy to make fillets, but it won't work like Elmer's FnF. My FnF (light wood filler in a 16 oz round tub) is almost out. I was in Lowe's the other day and found it, but in a rectangular 16 oz tub now. It appears to be the same stuff.
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  #18  
Old 01-27-2006, 04:45 PM
Enign Blather Enign Blather is offline
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OK then - no micro ballons it is then. I'll try lowe's. Thanks!
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  #19  
Old 02-04-2006, 07:56 PM
HighPowerKid HighPowerKid is offline
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I just got done filling a tube for my LOC Isis. I add a little water to Elmers Wood Filler and it works great. Also doesnt take very long.
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  #20  
Old 02-09-2006, 03:24 PM
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Royatl Royatl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle3
No, micro balloons isn't the same. I've used micro balloons mixed with epoxy to make fillets, but it won't work like Elmer's FnF. My FnF (light wood filler in a 16 oz round tub) is almost out. I was in Lowe's the other day and found it, but in a rectangular 16 oz tub now. It appears to be the same stuff.


No, he's saying the stuff from Hobbyco has micro-balloons in it just like the Elmer's FnF does, but you're right in that the FnF is much better for the job than the Hobbyco stuff.
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