#21
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Good point to bring up. I have been using double glue joints on fins since reading about it a couple years ago. It is amazing how quickly the fin grabs and does not need to be held by hand to keep it from leaning to one side or the other.
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Lee Reep NAR 55948 Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, Ken Foss Designs Mini Satellite Interceptor In the Paint Shop: Nothing! Too cold! Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp |
#22
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That might go back to the days of r.m.r -- I recall a guy named Dangerous Dave. Sadly, I guess a fitting nickname. I never recall hearing how things ended up for Dave, health-wise. I started wearing nitrile gloves right after I heard about his health problems.
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Lee Reep NAR 55948 Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, Ken Foss Designs Mini Satellite Interceptor In the Paint Shop: Nothing! Too cold! Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp |
#23
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Curiouser and curiouser. I don't think a C6-5 can generate enough heat for long enough to soften a joint under normal circumstances using any of the glues being discussed in this thread. Admittedly, I've never used 5 minute epoxy but other posters seem to be unanimous in condemning it. What else happened during the flight ? Did the whole motor mount eject ? |
#24
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a Quest engine might. I've seen their labels start turning brown from heat.
Rex |
#25
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And no need for fancy and expensive fin jigs and other gimmicks to hold everything while slobbery yellow glue runs everywhere before it tacks up... LOL Later! OL JR
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The X-87B Cruise Basselope-- THE Ultimate Weapon in the arsenal of Homeland Security and only $52 million per round! |
#26
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+1... and nearly burned through as well... Later! OL JR
__________________
The X-87B Cruise Basselope-- THE Ultimate Weapon in the arsenal of Homeland Security and only $52 million per round! |
#27
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The motors could soften the glue over the extended time of descent and recovery, but not during powered flight/ejection when max strength is needed.
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I love sanding. |
#28
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I sincerely wish I had seen this thread before I installed a motor mount in my current scratch-build with 5-minute epoxy. Fortunately, in my case the MM is held in with 4 centering rings and a balsa transition, so collectively I would hope it'll hold together.
That said, I am now going to apply a Titebond fillet on the front ring (should be fun, 11" from the end of the BT) and a 30-minute epoxy fillet on the aft ring. I only used epoxy in the first place because of the CA applied to the inside of the ends of the BTs. Oh well. I wish any normal hardware store carried any of the slower-setting epoxies. 5-minute varieties were all I could find anywhere. Ultimately ordered some from Amazon. |
#29
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Just remembered something that hasn't been mentioned about using slow curing epoxy for a MMT's placement inside the body tube.
Make sure that the mount is supported in its final position so that it doesn't slip inside (or out) before it cures. I've seen couplers do this too. I've applied epoxy, slid in the part, then set it aside, upright, to work on the next thing. Next thing I notice is that it's sliding down inside the tube. So far, I've managed to catch it and pull the part back to its intended position before it set, but if the placement is critical, it could be a problem if not caught early enough.
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. . Dreaming of making the rockets I dreamed of as a kid (and then some). "The Guide says there is an art to flying", said Ford, "or rather a knack." "The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss." Launching is Optional... Landing? That Depends on Trees. |
#30
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I like to think "of course I would have thought of that, duh". Knowing how reality works, though, I say "thank you for that tip!" I can only imagine the choice words that would be uttered upon coming back and seeing the MM having slid out of position (out of the rocket would be bad; *into* the rocket would be unspeakably bad.) Choice. Words. |
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