I really like the look of the micro buttons on your V-2 build. I have contacted the vendor regarding using them on my SV and he indicates that by switching from the plastic screws to stainless screws that they should be good to go for my heavier SV build. I am considering using more than the typical two, spread along the length of the BT-101 tube with metal reinforcements. I had planned all along to do rail buttons and have access to the intended locations. Glad I waited as the smaller size plus the ability to get both black and white (i.e. match to the SV paint scheme) will make their presence less noticeable. Granted this means I will need to supply my own launch rail at club launches, but that is a minor issue at this point.

Testors tube type plastic cement. Smear some on the inside aft end of the body tube, and let dry. Do the same around the outer edge of the aft centering ring. Apply some more around the shoulder and ring and slide things together, giving the tail cone a spin as you seat it home.

Or some medium CA, though that won't be quite as strong in the long term.

kj

Approx. 2 years ago I did a thread on how to epoxy the fins onto the engine mount tube--inside the plastic fin can. It's the ONLY way I attach them now.

I'll get back to my rocket bench after I return home from my job in Stratford, Ontario (home town of Justin Beiber.)

__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything.

4 out of 3 people struggle with math.

Chemically, alcohol IS a solution.

NAR# 94042
SAM# 0078

r

When I bought the micro buttons from rail-buttons.com, I also bought the mini buttons, and the 80/20 20mm rail from him (4 ft. long). Those would work well for the Saturn V, although the micros I believe would be fine. Amazon sells the MakerBeam in 900mm length, as well as 1500mm. I only bought the 900 but may get the 1500 as well.

I'll try to find a picture, but I decided to adapt my MakerBeam to plug into a pad that will hold a 3/16" launch rod, so I could take it to club launches and just swap out one of the club pads. I used a piece of brass tubing about 6" long, and epoxied the rail into the tubing about 1/2 way. I then turned a dowel on my lathe until it was a tight slip fit into the other end of the brass tube and then bored a hole in the dowel to accept a short piece of 3/16" stainless rod. This was epoxied into the dowel, which was then epoxied into the brass tube.

Update, here is the adapter for the MakerBeam rail:

__________________
Lee Reep
NAR 55948

Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, Ken Foss Designs Mini Satellite Interceptor
In the Paint Shop: Nothing! Too cold!
Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp

Glad you mentioned the 1500mm maker beam as I might have not spotted its availability. I like the way you modified the end to work in a standard 3/16 rod launch pad.

I am curious if you have found the 10mm rail to have any flex? I would really like to have about 1900mm of rail as my saturn is heavy and I want to give it as long a rail as practical, so I am considering creating a two piece rail which would be easier to pack.

The MakerBeam rail is extremely rigid. Holding both ends, I can barely induce any flex. The 20mm rail might be a good alternative to a two-piece MakerBeam rail. I think 4 feet in length is plenty long for a Saturn V, especially since it is designed to fly off a standard 3/16" rod.

__________________
Lee Reep
NAR 55948

Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, Ken Foss Designs Mini Satellite Interceptor
In the Paint Shop: Nothing! Too cold!
Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp

What a terrible place to be... LOL

"I say we take off and nuke the site from orbit-- it's the only way to be sure..."

Later! OL J R

__________________
The X-87B Cruise Basselope-- THE Ultimate Weapon in the arsenal of Homeland Security and only $52 million per round!

These are the appropriate choices ranked in order for gluing plastic to wood or cardboard:

1) ANY structural (not 'finishing resin') Epoxy with a working time of over 10 minutes (do not use 5 Minute Epoxy, it's strength STINKS)

2) Pacer 560 Canopy Glue

3) Medium or Thick CA

1497) Elmer's Glue All

4613) Testor's Tube-Type Plastic Cement....this is the ABSOLUTE WORST compound for making glue joints between ANY plastic and ANY wood....the joint will have next to ZERO mechanical strength whatsoever.

__________________
When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!!

Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't !
Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY.
ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, TURMOIL, FIASCOS, and HAVOC !

Well, I think I'm happy that my favorite choice is #2 on GH's list....

__________________
Bernard Cawley
NAR 89040 L1 - Life Member
SAM 0061
AMA 42160
KG7AIE

If it will never have more than say a 24mm RMS E18, I would probably reach for Pacer 560 to glue on the tailcone as well. If I built this kit though, I know it would get whacked occasionally with F24's and F39's and would see Epoxy as #1 even though this part should not have any real load on it.

I just can't understand the thinking behind using Testor's Tube-Type cement here....using "Seal-All" would have better load bearing strength in a plastic/cardboard joint and the strength of that stuff is awful. Testor's Tube-Type cement is GOOD (not great) for bonding one thing ONLY; styrene to styrene (itself). It is LOUSY for anything else.

__________________
When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!!

Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't !
Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY.
ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, TURMOIL, FIASCOS, and HAVOC !