Agree with tbzep; the PROPER paint scheme on ALL builds is the catalog/facecard scheme.

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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!!

Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't !
Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY.
ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, and HAVOC !

I don't about that. Along about the 17th upscale/downscale clone of a Midget, I had to try some different paint schemes

Doug

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YORF member #11

Well, I occasionally copy other folks' custom paint schemes in addition to the Estes/Centuri art. My Midget looks a lot like a few of yours.

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I love sanding.

Agree with GH and Zep. I always try to finish per the catalog art. That turned into a lot of fun when I recently finished a new Big Bertha in the 1969 (I think) red, white, black, spirally near the top livery.

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Just completed: Estes Cherokee-E, Estes Multi-Roc.

Current project: Painting the roll pattern on my new Ventris build, gifted me by the estimable Dr. Houchin.

Speaking of hating sanding, in May, I sanded, filled, and primed a scratch-built upscale Orbital Transport that I entered into the upscale competition at NSL. I wanted it to be absolutely pristine. It's not, but it's hard to see the few little spots that could have used a bit more filling and sanding ... Oh, the pain of all that prep!

Since meeting John Boren at NSL and gaining a real appreciation of his building skills, I'm using his finishing technique -- use a good sandable filler-primer to fill voids, tube seams, and grain. (I still use sanding sealer on balsa beforehand, but John does not. ) I may try the primer-only approach next build. The real secret is the use of flexible sanding sponges. I bought a 6-pack for $5.99 at Harbor Freight, and I'm not sure I'll ever wear out the first one. You just rinse them in water. The sanding sponges are a little thick for my tastes, so I ran them thru my bandsaw to make 2 thinner sponges. Since they have abrasive on both faces, you end up with two sponges with abrasive on one side only. I think this actually helps since it makes them more flexible.

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Lee Reep
NAR 55948

Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, Ken Foss Designs Mini Satellite Interceptor
In the Paint Shop: Nothing! Too cold!
Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp

I generally paint my models to match the face card; once I see it (especially if it's a really nice one) it gets stuck in my head and it becomes harder for me to visualize different schemes.

But I would disagree that that is the all-caps PROPER way to do it. You do what you want with your own models. Some of the nicest builds I've seen have taken the decor in a completely different direction from the face card. I admire folks who have the ability to get the face card image out of their head and reinvent. But that ain't me.

I enjoy seeing models finished just like the face card or catalog, but it's always nice to see an unusual scheme with different colors and patterns.

Heck, if Estes felt strongly that a certain color or pattern was the definitive way to finish a model, they probably would not have changed them for classic models like the Alpha and Bertha.

I find I only feel compelled to duplicate a pattern on a classic. If it's a newer model, it's probably getting a different finish.

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Lee Reep
NAR 55948

Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, Ken Foss Designs Mini Satellite Interceptor
In the Paint Shop: Nothing! Too cold!
Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp

I have one coat of Krylon Acryli Quik flat white applied to the small shuttle with no primer. The Brodak sealer did its job with no grain showing, pretty impressive since there is no primer, trying to keep the weight down. I applied flat white sine a Krylon Acryli Quik Gloss white or yellow is pretty translucent by itself and would require multiple coats. I have still not decided on colors, Centuri has 3 colors shown, two are from artist in the catalogs and the silver and white color shown in the Centuri picture, and that is the only actual Centuri build showing the actual painted rocket. Since the silver and white is the only picture I can find from Centuri, that is what I am leaning towards. The red nose cones are first primed with a Black primer, then grey primer followed by the top coat. This method of priming blocks the red from showing. As far as sealing and sanding, we'll not too bad since the sealer sands fast, easy and not too messy. The only problem is the smell. I have tried Johns technique of priming only and it works but is messy and adds a lot of weight. It works great with laser cut parts. You sand the laser cut sheets with parts still attached then shoot two heavy coats of primer. When dried sand smooth and repeat the primer coats until smooth. Then cut the parts out of the sheet and build the rocket and prime, sand again until smooth. Pretty messy but it does work, probably would not work well with old die cut parts from these vintage builds. Any way how does the silver and white sound? The large glider silver and small plane Gloss white?

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As far as painting to match the face card, for the most part I agree especially for vintage builds. I like the old kits where the face card has the actual built and painted rocket for me to aspire my build. I'm not too crazy about the face cards with computer generated face cards of the completed rocked. For those rockets I don't mind changing the final color scheme.

scigs,
Google "centuri space shuttle" to see some other models. I saw a white/yellow model I liked. There was also a white/orange combo. I would be torn between the silver/white and white/yellow. Both are attractive.

Once I'm back from vacation, I'm ordering some of the Acryli-Quik paint. I have several cans of the old Interior-Exterior lacquer-based cans from around 2000. I just used a can of flat white that sprayed just like new. Several weeks ago I painted with a can of yellow. I had to throw out two cans of gloss white. These had dried paint down in the top of the can, and soaking them inverted in some lacquer thinner did not free them up. But I cannot complain about 15+ year-old cans of paint.

I'm anxious to try the new stuff.

Regarding messiness using John Boren's technique, I only sand over a utility sink in my shop, where I can rinse model and contain the mess, and everything goes down the drain. It would not be fun doing this on a workbench!

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Lee Reep
NAR 55948

Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, Ken Foss Designs Mini Satellite Interceptor
In the Paint Shop: Nothing! Too cold!
Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp