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  #21  
Old 02-06-2009, 10:20 AM
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Royatl Royatl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BEC
Interesting....

I have fond memories of my Streak but I'm afraid if I recreated it (anyone make BT-10s?) I'd lose it on even a 1/2A motor. That would be one of the reasons to use the few 40+ year old motors I have.


No, but I now have a couple of 9" lengths of it, as well as the crunched, but usable, carcass of a former Streak, and a five inch length that has a nose block glued in the middle for some strange reason.
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  #22  
Old 02-06-2009, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BEC
I have fond memories of my Streak but I'm afraid if I recreated it (anyone make BT-10s?) I'd lose it on even a 1/2A motor.
While my purist brethren here might object, I see no reason to not substitute a BT-20 in lieu of the BT-10. That is, since many of the catalog paint schemes painted over the mylar tube completely, who cares what's underneath the paint?

As for motors for the Streak, your vintage 1/4A's and 1/2A's are fine at personal launches and at club launches under the expired motor testing program.

I agree that 1/2A impulse in a Streak is risky, so have extra eyes with you, positioned in different places in case the sun is a factor. IOW, if you're all standing in the same place and it flies into the sun, you will all be blinded at once

You can also use currently available 1/4A T-motors, adapted up in size, to keep your Streak low and slow for better recovery odds.

In summary, if you want to enjoy cloning and flying this classic bird, don't let the lack of BT-10 or 18mm 1/4A's stand in your way.

Doug

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  #23  
Old 02-06-2009, 10:59 AM
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mojo1986 mojo1986 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BEC
Interesting....

I have fond memories of my Streak but I'm afraid if I recreated it (anyone make BT-10s?) I'd lose it on even a 1/2A motor. That would be one of the reasons to use the few 40+ year old motors I have.


I'm sure I have an original Mylar tube around here somewhere from an old Streak kit............want me to look for it?

Joe
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  #24  
Old 02-06-2009, 12:37 PM
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Stick a C6-7 ,or better yet, an 18mm SU Aerotech D21-7 in that Streak and let 'er RIP.
That's the way it was MEANT to fly ONCE....Fire-n-Forget !
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  #25  
Old 02-06-2009, 02:18 PM
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This morning I rediscovered a box that my parents had sent me long ago that has over half a dozen rockets I built in the very early 1970s in it including what appears to be an unflown Constellation and one I can't even identify that may have been a Centuri kit, as well as my Star Blazer. It also contained several of my originals including three BT-10 based models, two of which are Streak-sized, as well as my very first original design (a small streamer recovery BT-20/BNC-20B-based bird). What a flood of memories!

Anyway.... as to finding a BT-10 -Joe, if you stumble across it for some other reason, it would be fun, but don't go looking just for that. I also agree with Doug that cloining the Streak with a BT-20 wouldn't be all that bad (thiough if I remember right I did NOT paint the bare tube part of my Streak, just the fins/paper wrap and the nose cone with some kind of flourescent orange paint). The other featherweight rockets I re-discovered this morning will probably scratch the itch to fly that type....

But I am on the point of ordering the tube, cone and ring from Semroc so I can clone the Sprite. I have an idea of a way to make a weighty adapter from a spent 18mm motor casing so that I could fly it with a 13mm motor and still have it be stable on the way up (not so sure it would be with tube and centering rings).

Last edited by BEC : 02-06-2009 at 02:36 PM. Reason: update of what I found in the box....
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  #26  
Old 02-06-2009, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulK
Welcome back! Beware, the bug bites much harder the 2nd time around
If you're not at a NAR launch, and they've been stored properly (which you've indicated) go ahead and use them. If you are at a NAR launch, use the OOP program as others have discussed, and fly them. I've flown a number of shorties in the last couple years, which were about 38 years old, every single one has worked fine.


Only a week and half into this I am finding that you are right about the second bite being harder!

I'll figure out what to do about the 1967/68 motors later. The only remaining shorty I have is a 1/2A booster. There was a two-stage original in the box that I mention in the post just above and it looks to me as if the first stage is sized for short 18mm motors on first glance....so I have the possibility of ONE more launch of it as it exists assuming I either cut down a 1/2A 18mm motor for the upper stage as UMRS suggested in another thread here or figure out how to stage an 18mm motor to a 13mm motor.

I wonder if it would be stable with 13mm motors in adapters.... Hmmm..........
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  #27  
Old 02-06-2009, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BEC
Only a week and half into this I am finding that you are right about the second bite being harder!
Having the improved hand-eye coordination of an adult, along with the patience, combined with the income of an adult, your mind races with the potential projects that were beyond your skills and income 40 years ago


Quote:
The only remaining shorty I have is a 1/2A booster. There was a two-stage original in the box that I mention in the post just above and it looks to me as if the first stage is sized for short 18mm motors on first glance....
Is this a Midget?


Quote:
I wonder if it would be stable with 13mm motors in adapters.... Hmmm..........
Yes, generally speaking, that works fine. The simple way to do it is to saw an inch off spent 18mm motors. The 13mm motors slide in nicely. I glue mine in (thus rendering the adaptors as disposable). You'll find the overall wall thickness of the 13mm motor in an 18mm case is comparable to the old shortie motor wall thickness anyway - they were quite thick. Thus, the overall motor mass is quite similar and hence should not adversely affect stability.

HTH.

Doug

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  #28  
Old 02-06-2009, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Sams

Is this a Midget?


No, it's not. It is, I think, an original of my own that's a bit taller than the Midget. It could very well have been inspired by that familiar-looking catalog page, though.

Quote:
Yes, generally speaking, that works fine. The simple way to do it is to saw an inch off spent 18mm motors. The 13mm motors slide in nicely. I glue mine in (thus rendering the adaptors as disposable). You'll find the overall wall thickness of the 13mm motor in an 18mm case is comparable to the old shortie motor wall thickness anyway - they were quite thick. Thus, the overall motor mass is quite similar and hence should not adversely affect stability.


I was thinking of the BT-5-in-centering-rings sort of adapter, like the normal BT-20 in rings for a BT-50 engine mount. What you suggest is certainly pretty simple - and I would think staging would still work just fine. A reason not to throw away spent motors.....
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  #29  
Old 02-06-2009, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghrocketman
Stick a C6-7 ,or better yet, an 18mm SU Aerotech D21-7 in that Streak and let 'er RIP.
That's the way it was MEANT to fly ONCE....Fire-n-Forget !


That sure would be fire-n-forget....though I'm not sure about the "forget" part. It might be pretty spectacular if it could be kept in sight for most of the flight.
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  #30  
Old 03-26-2009, 02:48 PM
shockwaveriderz shockwaveriderz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billspad
To shut up a few members like us who keep pushing for eliminating decertification because of OOP status?

To use up a lot of the old motors out there so it won't be an issue?

When the data from the program turned out to be exactly what we thought it would be I thought they'd take the next logical step. The impression I get is that, since the program works and allows people to use the old motors, there's no need to make it more convenient for them. I could be wrong and I hope I am.



Bill, thats sad.............. :-(


terry dean
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