Ye Olde Rocket Forum

Go Back   Ye Olde Rocket Forum > Work Bench > Scale & Sport Scale Rocketry
User Name
Password
Auctions Register FAQ Members List Calendar Today's Posts Search Mark Forums Read


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 10-27-2010, 02:21 PM
jharding58's Avatar
jharding58 jharding58 is offline
Master Modeler
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Kennesaw, GA
Posts: 1,936
Default Gemini Titan

I know, I know. I build these all the time, but if you have not tried using some paper models as wraps for semi-scale rockets you are missing on an incredible source to shortcut the process. This is the Ton Noteboom 1/48 Gemini scaled to the Semroc capsule clone for Estes K-21. All that remains is to color the paper folds with a Sharpie.

I love this stuff!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:  DSC_8455.JPG
Views: 312
Size:  261.3 KB  Click image for larger version

Name:  DSC_8459.JPG
Views: 320
Size:  298.7 KB  
__________________
Gravity is a harsh mistress
SAM 002
NAR 91005
"The complexity of living is eminently favored to the simplicity of not."
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 10-27-2010, 02:53 PM
luke strawwalker's Avatar
luke strawwalker luke strawwalker is offline
BAR
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Needville and Shiner, TX
Posts: 5,873
Default

Gotta link??

Looks MAH-VEL-OUS.... OL JR
__________________
The X-87B Cruise Basselope-- THE Ultimate Weapon in the arsenal of Homeland Security and only $52 million per round!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 10-27-2010, 03:10 PM
jharding58's Avatar
jharding58 jharding58 is offline
Master Modeler
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Kennesaw, GA
Posts: 1,936
Default

Most of mine come from the Lower Hudson Valley site manitained by Jon Leslie. I will say that I have been trying for months to find Erik to Groen's MR3 & MR4 wraps in 1/35th scale, but they have dropped of the net. I have copies but they are protected pdf and I cannot get them to scale.

http://jleslie48.com/gallery_models_apollo.html

Or you could go nuts...

Quote:
Ok this is big I mean real big. Its a model of the ISS in 1:40 scale. That means you need an area 8' x 6' x 5' to display it. John J has made this incredible model available now. There is also a 1:80 version for those of you who only want the 2nd biggest model of the LHVCC's collection.

__________________
Gravity is a harsh mistress
SAM 002
NAR 91005
"The complexity of living is eminently favored to the simplicity of not."

Last edited by jharding58 : 10-27-2010 at 04:28 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-04-2010, 08:00 PM
grafgulch grafgulch is offline
Intermediate Rocketeer
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 72
Default

Nice looking GT capsule. Show us some pics of the booster
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-05-2010, 03:03 AM
jharding58's Avatar
jharding58 jharding58 is offline
Master Modeler
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Kennesaw, GA
Posts: 1,936
Default

The booster is the Estes K-21 cloned. Decals by Excelsior, body - by Semroc, of course...
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:  DSC_7108.JPG
Views: 290
Size:  113.0 KB  Click image for larger version

Name:  DSC_8474.JPG
Views: 359
Size:  323.3 KB  Click image for larger version

Name:  DSC_8490.JPG
Views: 306
Size:  335.3 KB  
__________________
Gravity is a harsh mistress
SAM 002
NAR 91005
"The complexity of living is eminently favored to the simplicity of not."
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-14-2010, 09:14 AM
Rocketcrab Rocketcrab is offline
Wasted away again.......
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: M&T Bank Stadium
Posts: 215
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jharding58
I know, I know. I build these all the time, but if you have not tried using some paper models as wraps for semi-scale rockets you are missing on an incredible source to shortcut the process. This is the Ton Noteboom 1/48 Gemini scaled to the Semroc capsule clone for Estes K-21. All that remains is to color the paper folds with a Sharpie.

I love this stuff!



Are yours the built Gemini-Titans that show up on e-Bay? I guess your the person to ask - I've cloned the K-21 a couple of times myself - what adhesive do you use on the blasted clear fins???? I've used clear dope, plastic cement [tube and liquid], cyano, my wife's pancake better - nothing works well!
__________________
Got a Caribbean soul I can barely control.....
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-14-2010, 10:42 AM
jharding58's Avatar
jharding58 jharding58 is offline
Master Modeler
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Kennesaw, GA
Posts: 1,936
Default

I guess it depends upon the sheet you are using. Mine is SIG Clear Plastic from Sig Manufacturung. Don't think it is styrene sheet but it may be ABS. Regardless, I use Ambroid liquid cement on the tube stick and fin joints. You really need to jig the parts and give them time to set. The problem is that if/when you apply more adhesive the solvent will penetrate the joint once more and possibly weaken it - so you need to make it right the first time.

http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsma...uFV5.html?E+Sig

I heard of someone using small clear quarter round laid in to the angle to add more glueing surface but I have never tried it.

I also got hold of some clear 2.25 plastic tube from ClearTec. You can slit the tube lengthwise, measure around the BT and cut down for an overlap and then run ambroid liquid or Tenax into it. Sets up really well. I got mine as a sample but I think they have a consumer projects section.

http://www.cleartecpackaging.com/plastic-tubing.html
__________________
Gravity is a harsh mistress
SAM 002
NAR 91005
"The complexity of living is eminently favored to the simplicity of not."
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-14-2010, 10:47 AM
Robobud's Avatar
Robobud Robobud is offline
Flying Model Rocket
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: IL
Posts: 189
Default wow

I have been looking to do something like this, and after seeing your results, I can only say wow...
__________________
I asked for a car, I got a computer. How's that for being born under a bad sign?
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-14-2010, 08:00 PM
Bill's Avatar
Bill Bill is offline
I do not like Facebook
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: North Tejas
Posts: 2,474
Default

Absolutely beautiful. I cannot see even a hint of those clear fins...


Bill
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 11-29-2011, 05:01 PM
jharding58's Avatar
jharding58 jharding58 is offline
Master Modeler
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Kennesaw, GA
Posts: 1,936
Default

After cursing and finagling the lower roll pattern for a couple of years now, I have (I think) come up with the simple solution. If the model is not built for flight - that is will not receive a slip on can, then it is easier to replicate the prototypical length tunnel on the booster all the way down to the skirt. If the tunnel is left short then there is a mismatch in the diameter of the decal pieces where the intersect with the tunnel. In the past I have had to slit the bar and make a small right angle cut to enable the tunnel to fit into the loose piece. Then I fill the gap with black decal film. I tried simpliying even this by cuttine the bars from the band with about 1mm of stump to align them after the lower band is attached.

If the tunnel carries to the skirt then the "hump" which the decal film has to pass over is consistent along the length of the bar - no need for any surgical intervention on the film. Of course, if you have mirrored tunnels then you will be doing this twice...

On the opic of the bands - there are three sets of white bands which will circle the second stage and booster. The first is a pair immediately below the tan band - if you are building GT-3. To simplify the application of these decals cut the six supplied strips into two pairs and two singlets. The first pair will be applied immediately below the above mentioned band. Once these are aligned and snuggled in leave them alone. Move down the model to the spot for the second pair and apply those as before. Once that is in place, check the upper pair and then make sure that there are no bubbles of creases. If there are gently stroke them until they are flush on the surface.

Move down to the booster and apply the single band below the upper roll pattern. Get this one right since the gap for the United States marking is aligned off of this one. Once all are set and smooth leave the model for about 20 minutes.

Now, the last single band is applied over the middle pair and centered as you apply. The best way is to set one end in the correct centering and slowly turn the airframe to pull the stipe off the backing. This is why you need to leave the decals for twenty minutes. If you pull it off smoothly the center stripe will lay down in the middle of the previously applied band and settle. Be very careful with this one to ensure that you do not pull the underlying decal.
__________________
Gravity is a harsh mistress
SAM 002
NAR 91005
"The complexity of living is eminently favored to the simplicity of not."

Last edited by jharding58 : 11-29-2011 at 05:29 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:31 PM.


Powered by: vBulletin Version 3.0.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Ye Olde Rocket Shoppe 1998-2019