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  #11  
Old 03-04-2011, 04:54 PM
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John Brohm John Brohm is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbrent
...

When I went to remove the masking tape, the paint along the edges lifted and came with the tape leaving a ratty looking ragged line. My guess is since I was painting over a gloss surface that the black didn't get a good enough hold.

...

Don


Sorry Don;

Just re-reading this, and I realize that I must be suffering from sleep deprivation. My comments were intended to respond to a problem with paint wicking under the tape edge, but I see (having read your post more closely) that you're describing a paint lifting problem.

Sorry for the misdirect in my response; hopefully my jetlag will sort itself soon and I can begin to process things properly!

Back into my corner;
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  #12  
Old 03-04-2011, 05:51 PM
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That's OK,
I'm still figuring out all this paint stuff again after several years of being inactive. I know back in the day (mid 80s) I built alot of rockets and painted every one of them with good ol' Krylon or what ever was inexpensive. I don't recall having any of these issues back then which is why it's so baffeling.

My other paint mishap with the Little Joe II was due to the nature of metallic spray paint going on heavy. This I did remember, but not until after it had happened. It's just frustrating to get to the last step in building a rocket (paint and decals) and screw it up.

The fact that it happened on 2 consecutive builds is especially irritating. I'll work through it. I just have to be patient and open to advice from those who know a thing or 2 (meaning all of you guys - Thanks!)

D.
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  #13  
Old 03-04-2011, 06:36 PM
Captain Ron Captain Ron is offline
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Some brand paints are just plain easier to work with than others......

Rustoleum is fine howver i really like using Krylon and Testors paints.... Krylon is just about the most user friendly paint out there..... I first sand up the body and fins with 400 paper. then spray primer, set aside... the next day, I will sand the primer again with 400, inspect, shoot with primer if needed..... Once Im happy that the grain is filled in on the fins and the spirals are filled in I sand again the body and fins real good with 400-600 paper.

I'll use my Estes patriot M104 as an example.... I first shot down the base white gloss coat. set aside.... the next day I used regular masking tape and masked off the fins and shot them down with gloss red.....set aside... the next day I masked off the end of the body and shot that down with gloss yellow.... set aside.... the next day I trimmed out some glossy red monocoat trim sheet and slapped that on the end of the body tube by the nose cone.... added decals...set aside... finally I shot the whole thing down with Model masters top coat clear enamel and here it is....
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  #14  
Old 03-05-2011, 11:53 AM
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nukemmcssret nukemmcssret is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Sams
That may be a factor. I usually, but not always, mask, sand, re-mask, then paint. Although sometimes I just paint over the cured, gloss finish without sanding.

It sounds like, in your case, you let the paint dry before you removed the mask. I learned, working in a paint shop, to remove the mask while the paint is wet, so that's what I always do.

Sometimes, it takes four hands, some painting jigs, cleverness and holding your tongue just right to get the tape off without marring the wet paint, but I don't get any flaking that way.

Doug

.

That is an awsome thing to know. This is the kind of stuff that makes this forum worth reading. And it makes perfect sense. The wet paint along the edge will just pool back where the tape line was. Thanks again. Chief nukemmcssret
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  #15  
Old 03-05-2011, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nukemmcssret
That is an awsome thing to know. This is the kind of stuff that makes this forum worth reading. And it makes perfect sense. The wet paint along the edge will just pool back where the tape line was. Thanks again. Chief nukemmcssret


We don't peel tape when it can still flow. However, the paint is still soft and "tears" along the tape line easily.
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  #16  
Old 03-06-2011, 03:30 AM
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You were trying to create the thin vertical stripe on the Alpha? Oh my, don't use paint for that. Design elements like that are why the Great Customizer In The Sky gave us 1/4" wide black automotive pinstriping. You can even lift and reposition it multiple times until you get it just right.
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  #17  
Old 03-06-2011, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark II
You were trying to create the thin vertical stripe on the Alpha? Oh my, don't use paint for that. Design elements like that are why the Great Customizer In The Sky gave us 1/4" wide black automotive pinstriping. You can even lift and reposition it multiple times until you get it just right.


A friend of mine told me that Estes used a decal on the catalog model... I have to say, I'm tempted...

D.
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  #18  
Old 03-06-2011, 09:21 AM
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At our club meeting yesterday, one of our members who used to paint cars for a living, told me that I was pulling my tape off wrong as well...

He said you always want to pull the tape off such that the tape is folded back on itself as you pull. This way the edge of the tape "cuts" the paint line as it comes off. He also emphasised what many of you have about making sure the paint is still somewhat wet and roughing up the surface first...
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  #19  
Old 03-06-2011, 10:41 PM
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You'll notice that my paint pattern is a mirror image of the catalog decor for Alphas from that era. I describe it as "left-handed," just like its builder.
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  #20  
Old 03-06-2011, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark II
You'll notice that my paint pattern is a mirror image of the catalog decor for Alphas from that era. I describe it as "left-handed," just like its builder.


Everybody is born right handed. Only us gifted folk are able to overcome it.
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