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  #21  
Old 08-17-2013, 10:46 AM
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I have looked but can't find the tube length for the X-24. Anyone have it handy?
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  #22  
Old 08-17-2013, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mycrofte
I have looked but can't find the tube length for the X-24. Anyone have it handy?


See the attached documents.

All parts are from Semroc

Streamer wraps around the BT-20J between the two CR's. Do not GLUE the CR's to the BT-50J.

After all the glue is dry, apply Superglue to the CR's, allow to dry, sand smooth. This will provide a much more durable surface.
Attached Files
File Type: ork X24 PopPod.ork (2.1 KB, 31 views)
File Type: pdf Pop Pod.pdf (39.4 KB, 52 views)
File Type: rkt X24 PopPod.rkt (10.9 KB, 28 views)
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Last edited by Ironnerd : 08-17-2013 at 02:53 PM.
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  #23  
Old 08-17-2013, 03:18 PM
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The plans on Jim Z's looks like it's just a rear ejection. I didn't think there was any more to it.

But, if I dig in the garage, I should have all of that.
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Old 08-17-2013, 03:38 PM
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The original X-24 did just eject the motor. I made a few changes to make the model more "NAR Friendly", and field owner friendly. No one wants to get bonked in the head with an expended motor casing, and field owners frown on finding little paper tubes left behind by "those rocket people".

It looks like a 3.75" piece of BT-20 will work for the motor tube if you just want to go with the original plans. The things are REALLY stable, so having the motor a touch aft will not cause much of an issue.

Be sure to put some "dag barf" or recovery wadding in the top of the motor - helps prevent burns from the ejection charge.
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  #25  
Old 08-17-2013, 04:43 PM
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When I make a rear ejection I glue a piece of aluminum foil to the nose cone as a shield. Never thought of packing anything on top before.
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Old 08-17-2013, 04:53 PM
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The wadding seems to soak up some of the hot/glowing bits. When I was launching them as straight-up rear eject, I had a few "cigarette burns" in the cone. Wadding seems to have fixed that issue.
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