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Tau Zero
08-13-2006, 11:27 PM
Now *this* is weird.

Today I primed and put the first color coat down on the body tubes of my daughters' two (abbreviated) Excelsior "Love Bugs." I used Dave "Sirius Rocketry" Miller's fin covering technique (computer label paper with the edges sealed by thin CA).

I came home tonight to discover air bubbles under the label paper (see photos below). I put *two* coats on the pink rocket, which *might* explain why those fin labels are "bubblier."

Should I prick the bubbles with a pin, and let the air out that way? Has anybody else run into this particular problem yet?

(I'll be contacting Dave to see if he's seen this before, and hopefully he'll reply to this thread.)


Here with go with "one more thing,"

jflis
08-14-2006, 08:43 AM
I've seen that happen many times. I beleive it is caused by an expansion of the paper when it becomes wet (from the applied paint). What I have done with a bit of success is to lay bond paper over the area and gently press it with a mono-kote iron. A regular iron may work, just be sure to use a very low setting with NO steam. (the bond paper helps to prevent damage to the paint from the heat source...)

This will help to reactivate the adhesive and get it to stick. Just poking a hole and pressing will hvae very limited and short term results.

In the end, I find it is much easier (and longer lasting) to print on regular bond paper and *glue* it down to the fin rather than depend on label adhesive....

hope this helps!

jim

Sirius Rocketry
08-14-2006, 10:02 AM
Jim has some good ideas, and I will add a few thoughts. Bond paper glued works as well, but can also warp from the moisture in the glue.

As far as using the label paper goes, burnishing the label paper down really well is important. I love the cap end of a Sharpie marker as the tool of choice. Sealing the edges of the fins with CA is equally important, white glue may add moisture to the mix and let some get under the fin. Also, it is important that the balsa be sanded smooth and wiped clean before the paper is added. Any irregularities, dust, rough grain or little "bumps" in the balsa can prevent the paper from making good contact around that area.

When painting, a MIST coat or two of primer helps to seal off the paper before the wetter paint is applied. I rarely have problems with the label paper, burnishing, a smooth surface, and going light on the first coat.

Like Jim mentioned, I would not prick a hole . Just press firmly down on the paper and see if it sticks. The iron idea works too, remember to use the bond paper in between to protect a bit from the heat like Jim said.

As a last resort, you "could" prick a very small hole, and try to get a bit of thin CA down through the hole and press.

Oh, and make sure that the label paper you get is not designed to be "easily removeable." Some label stock has a less agressive adhesive to allow people to remove the labels they place on objects, and that does not work well. Look for those that tout a "permanent adhesive." You may have to look at the fine print on the package, but if they say removeable anywhere, stay away. I'll try to come back in a day or two with some brands that work well.

Bob Thomas
08-15-2006, 12:51 AM
Had a few on my laminations with paper. Root of my problem was likely trapped moisture. Iron exacerbated the problem so I used syringe with CA after rubbing out the air through pin holes throughout the bubble. Label paper had given me unacceptable results on builds from my youth. The tack (like tape) degrades, allowing the paper to shrink or move and bubbles show up over the years like window tint film. I have read on craft websites of using plastic wrap under paper or tissue as a laminate, iron treated to fuse the paper to the balsa. Anyone else ever try this?

Bob Thomas
08-15-2006, 12:53 AM
David,

The Interrogator Rocks!!!!! Taking my sweet time with it.

falingtrea
08-15-2006, 10:27 AM
Here is another possiblity. The solvent from the paint could be passing through the paper and getting trapped on the other side. Possibly a light coat of a clear sealant put on the paper before it is applied will help. Or as suggested earlie, a light under coat.

Tau Zero
08-15-2006, 05:41 PM
Jim has some good ideas, and I will add a few thoughts. Bond paper glued works as well, but can also warp from the moisture in the glue.As I discovered when I used yellow glue to attach the label paper (backing and all!) to my first attempt at Interrogator fins. :eek: :o


As far as using the label paper goes, burnishing the label paper down really well is important. I love the cap end of a Sharpie marker as the tool of choice.Apparently I had forgotten this particular step, and I just used your "tool of choice" to squish the bubbles out. ("Squish" is a medical term, don'tcha know. :rolleyes: ) That seemed to work nicely, and we'll see how things look after I spray the fins. Wish me luck!


Sealing the edges of the fins with CA is equally important, white glue may add moisture to the mix and let some get under the fin. Also, it is important that the balsa be sanded smooth and wiped clean before the paper is added. Any irregularities, dust, rough grain or little "bumps" in the balsa can prevent the paper from making good contact around that area.I used CA, but apparently I was operating under the delusion that since I was covering up the largest areas of the fin surface, I didn't need to sand them. :o (We'll see if I learn my lesson here.)


Oh, and make sure that the label paper you get is not designed to be "easily removeable." Some label stock has a less aggressive adhesive to allow people to remove the labels they place on objects, and that does not work well. Look for those that tout a "permanent adhesive." You may have to look at the fine print on the package, but if they say removeable anywhere, stay away.Nope, it says "Etiquetas autoadhesivas de hoja completa." I mean, "self-adhesive full sheet labels." They're the OfficeMax brand, and the "same size as Avery(R) template 8165."


Thanks as always, Dave! :cool:


Cheers,