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vigilante
05-30-2012, 02:11 PM
What is the recommended way of gluing regular 24lb printer paper onto a body tube without getting wrinkles, bubbles, tearing and what not? I got spray adhesive but that stuff never seems to dry completely.

mycrofte
05-30-2012, 06:01 PM
The only thing I have for that is white glue. The best thing I have learned is using as little as humanly possible!
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nukemmcssret
05-30-2012, 06:15 PM
Glue one end of it perfectly straight along a line you drew on the tube. G lue this good and let it dry as said above use the least amount. Once the seam has dried. aroll the paper around the tube and put a rubber band or something to hold it tight. Let this set for a good day. This will train your paper to wrap around the tube. When ready remove rubber band and an inch or two at a time glue the paper to the tube. Use the least amount of glue you can. Like two drops and sread it on the tube then roll the paper over it. When that sets do it again. For a small tube twice is good. Once you set the paper, be careful not to rub it too much, it will tear. Then seal it with your favorite sealer. Let me know if you do it this way. Chief :D

carbons4
05-31-2012, 08:59 AM
Just a question.........Have you tried thinning down the glue? First DO NOT USE SCHOOL GLUE. Use the good Elmers white glue and thin it down with 91% isopropol and mix it to the consistancy of thin snot. I would get a couple pieces of ground rod stiff enough to roll it between. That would be my first thought.

MarkB.
05-31-2012, 12:01 PM
And use an old credit card to spread it really thin.

carbons4
05-31-2012, 12:14 PM
Yes. Spread it even but very thin.

CPMcGraw
05-31-2012, 07:38 PM
What is the recommended way of gluing regular 24lb printer paper onto a body tube without getting wrinkles, bubbles, tearing and what not? I got spray adhesive but that stuff never seems to dry completely.

Question -- Why not start with sticky-back label paper to begin with? It's about the same thickness/weight/consistency as printer paper, but with the adhesive already applied. And, you can run it through a laser printer or ink-jet printer to apply patterns, if needed. The final seal can be a drop of thin CA at the lap joint applied through one of those very tiny Teflon tubes or a squeeze-bulb applicator.

jeffyjeep
05-31-2012, 08:01 PM
MY adhesive of choice for glueing cardstock when there can be absolutely NO wrinkles or puckers is Alleene's Super Tacky white glue.

I use it exclusively for the aeroshrouds on vintage Quest kits (X-30, HL-20, M2Q2, Delta Clipper) and it's never failed me.

jeffyjeep
05-31-2012, 08:20 PM
As you can see on this Quest Delta Clipper, I laid a heavy bead of Aleene's around the inside bottom rim of the aeroshroud, but it didn't pucker or distort the outside surface.

Gus
05-31-2012, 10:03 PM
Question -- Why not start with sticky-back label paper to begin with? It's about the same thickness/weight/consistency as printer paper, but with the adhesive already applied. And, you can run it through a laser printer or ink-jet printer to apply patterns, if needed. The final seal can be a drop of thin CA at the lap joint applied through one of those very tiny Teflon tubes or a squeeze-bulb applicator.
I'm a big fan of full-sheet label paper as well. I don't do anything special to the seam. I just spray the entire rocket with several coats of clear spray paint and it creates a "shell" over the label paper that keeps it in place.

Gus
05-31-2012, 10:05 PM
MY adhesive of choice for glueing cardstock when there can be absolutely NO wrinkles or puckers is Alleene's Super Tacky white glue.

I use it exclusively for the aeroshrouds on vintage Quest kits (X-30, HL-20, M2Q2, Delta Clipper) and it's never failed me.

As you can see on this Quest Delta Clipper, I laid a heavy bead of Aleene's around the inside bottom rim of the aeroshroud, but it didn't pucker or distort the outside surface.

Really good tip (from one of the best builders around).

jharding58
06-01-2012, 09:31 AM
As you can see on this Quest Delta Clipper, I laid a heavy bead of Aleene's around the inside bottom rim of the aeroshroud, but it didn't pucker or distort the outside surface.

Intersting item here - the Clipper is curently released by Quest in Germany. I saw it at Dusseldorf.

ghrocketman
06-01-2012, 10:11 AM
I would use a very thin layer of contact cement on both pieces.
Let it dry COMPLETELY before joining. If you think it is dry, give it more time anyway...double what the bottle/can says.
Have done it before and it works really well without any wrinkles.

carbons4
06-04-2012, 01:54 PM
"As you can see on this Quest Delta Clipper, I laid a heavy bead of Aleene's around the inside bottom rim of the aeroshroud, but it didn't pucker or distort the outside surface."

Your Delta clipper looks good. Will have to try it. I am guessing you can get it at Hobby Lobby?

Bill
06-04-2012, 09:19 PM
"As you can see on this Quest Delta Clipper, I laid a heavy bead of Aleene's around the inside bottom rim of the aeroshroud, but it didn't pucker or distort the outside surface."

Your Delta clipper looks good. Will have to try it. I am guessing you can get it at Hobby Lobby?


Aleene's Tacky glue can be found at most hobby and craft stores.

The Quest Delta Clipper is long out of production, but there may still be a few hanging around in hobby shops.


Bill