3D printing for EVERYONE

[scott_mills]

I hope everyone will eventually come to know the Absolute joys of owning a 3d printer. I have only had 1 for 3 days, and have already ran out of filament . It is the best tool in the world for Bar;s that want to clone old hard to find rockets. Thingiverse all by itself provides an awesome selection of model rocket parts, clone parts, and scale models that can be converted to flight. Here are some of the projects that I have already printed parts for downloaded from thingiverse.

1/100 falcon heavy with dragon 2 capsule PARTS
1/152 saturn 5 nose cone, and F1 engines
clone of estes titan 2 engines
1/100 Gemini Nose cone


Boy oh Boy, I need to get some more plastic filament.

[UMRS]

We have 3 of them there fantastic machines.

[teflonrocketry1]

I received my Creality Ender 2 3D printer kit just last week ($175 with 2 day shipping from https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/) and plan to clone and design a lot of model rocket parts. I ran out of filament after a few days and am awaiting an order for more. It took me about 1 hour to assemble and align the printer which gives an excellent 3D print for the price; it has a 6" x 6" heated bed with a x 9" height capability.

I have been using PLA filament, as soon as I am able to design and produce high quality parts I plan to switch over to Nylon. I am looking forward to an endless supply of rail buttons, profiled fins and custom nosecones.

For 3D designs I am trying out Autodesk 123D Design and TinkerCAD. As of now I am not very impressed with either of these programs. I want something more technical where I can input actual dimensions and get a good 3D rendering. I am impressed with the Ultimaker Cura 3D printing software that came with the Ender 2 printer, it is easy to use and has produced great 3D prints from the start.

[UMRS]

We use Cura for all three printers. we have 2 SINDOH DP200's Kevin & Stuart :)

We need to get a photo of BoB, hes a PROMEGA from M3D 12" square platform.

[stefanj]

I'd like to get a 3D printer eventually. I'm not an early adopter. I joke that I'm waiting for one that has input hoppers that accept plastic soda bottles and aluminum cans.

I think a laser cutter will be the first hi-tech shop equipment I splurge on.

[scott_mills]

Creality is great, I got the CR 10. Hey here is a quetion for all you print heads out there, has anyone ever trid printing a wrap? I mean thos rafts around the parts are pretty darn thin and flexible. I will probably try it, when I get my shipment of filament.

[teflonrocketry1]

I have a similar idea instead of decals just print a thin wrap for a body tube, if the print is flexible enough the print might not need to have a curved or profiled surface to it. I think this will work, the problem is how to fasten it down to the body tube. I have been thinking I could print the wrap directly onto a piece of clear tape or clear sticker paper. For scale models, bolt and screw heads could be printed in relief on the wrap.

I saw a video on Maker's Muse https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwqjz5nxOw0 that used spray paint on the filament to change the color of the 3D print. I was wondering if I could use a brush on type paint to get a similar effect and allow me to change colors during the print without having a separate extruder for each color.

[olDave]

What about a good, home-hobbyist-sized laser cutter for making our own custom centering rings?

I know nothing about these machines except (on the websites I have been searching) they seem to be way oversize for my needs, and offer no information about ability to cut cardboard or thin ply. I am looking for something maybe 6x6 inches, although my current need is only for something that could do 4x4 work. Surely there must be something out there that doesn't cost an arm and a leg....

[teflonrocketry1]

Chris Taylor of NARANlive.com has 7 (or more) Creality Ender 2 3D printers and is busy cranking out centering rings, motor retainers and lots of other model rocket parts, visit his YouTube channel at: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCusgqRXg90d7Nau1rqa4WqQ

The Ender 2 printers are quiet and don't take up much space, they can easily fit into a 16 inch square space.

[scott_mills]

I can't find the maximum print size other than in pixels, however this is closer to the size of a laser engraver that you wanted, and the price is not too bad. I am still considering one for myself to cut fins and such. You might be able to find it cheaper on Ali Express.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEJE-DK-8-KZ-High-Power-Laser-Engraver-Printer-Machine-1000mW-Faster-Engraving/302570453126?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

[DavidQ]

I can't find the maximum print size other than in pixels, however this is closer to the size of a laser engraver that you wanted, and the price is not too bad. I am still considering one for myself to cut fins and such. You might be able to find it cheaper on Ali Express.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEJE-DK-8-KZ-High-Power-Laser-Engraver-Printer-Machine-1000mW-Faster-Engraving/302570453126?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
Notice that it's a 1000mW engraver, i.e. a 1W engraver. For laser cutting, you'd want at least a 40W laser. So, that low cost laser is just for engraving, i.e. putting marks on wood, and shouldn't be considered for cutting, even balsa.

[scott_mills]

Yeah it sure would take alot of passes to get through what you want.

I've done up the cad for a estes titan nose cone,Does anyone with a 3d printer want to try it out ? I can't I do not have any more filament.

[teflonrocketry1]

I got some filament yesterday from Amazon. I can't believe I got a package on Easter Sunday; the USPS label indicates Sunday delivery! I will PM you my details, I would like to try to print the Estes Titan nose cone you rendered.

For cutting fins and centering rings I was also looking at getting a DIY CNC Router Kit like: https://www.amazon.com/Control-Engraving-240x180x45mm-Beauty-Star/dp/B07169D9JQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZCP9KYKAWS86XK2F3PWK

I didn't go this route because I want to cut all three or four fins (or centering rings) out of a stack of wood, all at the same time, so they are all exactly the same size. It is not clear to me if the CNC router like these can handle a 1" thick stack of birch ply. I may purchase a CNC router in the future after some more research. It seems to me that router bits are currently much cheaper than laser tubes, which is why I didn't even consider a laser cutter. Also it seems both of these cutters require a dedicated computer unlike a 3D printer.

[tbzep]

I got some filament yesterday from Amazon. I can't believe I got a package on Easter Sunday
You live in a special place to get Sunday delivery when in very recent history there was discussion of cutting the USPS down to 5 days a week on a national scale. :cool:

[olDave]

I do appreciate the attempt to help, posted by Scott:

I can't find the maximum print size other than in pixels, however this is closer to the size of a laser engraver that you wanted, and the price is not too bad. I am still considering one for myself to cut fins and such. You might be able to find it cheaper on Ali Express.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEJE-DK-8-KZ-High-Power-Laser-Engraver-Printer-Machine-1000mW-Faster-Engraving/302570453126?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

But when I chase this thing down to try to pick up more details, I found some answered questions over on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Engraver-Resolution-Engraving-Bluetooth-Protective/dp/B073TRJDPS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1522725299&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=NEJE+DK-8-KZ+Laser+Engraver+Printer&psc=1
where one of the users says the usable cutting bed is only 2 by 2 1/2 inches.
That's just not gonna do it for me.
But thanks for trying to help.

[ghrocketman]

My understanding is that USPS only delivers Amazon Prime orders on Sunday exclusively due to a special contract with them and FedEx.
"Regular" mail and USPS packages are not delivered on Sundays.

[tbzep]

My understanding is that USPS only delivers Amazon Prime orders on Sunday exclusively due to a special contract with them and FedEx.
"Regular" mail and USPS packages are not delivered on Sundays.
I think that is still only in certain areas. I live in a small enough town to know all of our postal employees and none of them carry parcels on Sunday....yet.

[scott_mills]

To anyone that has a 3d printer and wants to try it out, I enjoyed doing the cad so much that I went ahead and did all of the pieces for the Titan 3e. My bird was missing the decorative tail cone, so the two parts that makes that up were guesstimated rather than measured. You can download the stl files from here.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2845691

I also did the Les offer the Estes Mercury capsule, as a commonly broken replacement piece. That can be found here.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2847499

[teflonrocketry1]

Scott,

The Titan nosecone looks great, see pictures attached. I had some minor problems with my 3D printer, apparently I need to optimize some more settings. Did you intend there to be facets in the nosecone cap?

[ghrocketman]

I have an original Titan II nosecone.
It does not have facets.
If the intent is to match the Estes cone, it is not correct.

[kevinj]

The facets are there from when the stl file was generated- too low a resolution and you get them.

[teflonrocketry1]

I thought the resolution might be a problem; but this effect is most pronunced on just the Titan nosecone top and not the rest of the part. When I export files from RockSim for 3D printing I always select the high resolution setting, if I don't do this I see simlar faceting but it is on all of the curved surfaces.

[scott_mills]

No Teflon, those look like they may be artifacts from either your printer or slicer.

I have now completed this things download section, It now contains all the parts necessary to make all 3 rockets, except for the fins which can be found in another thing. I just uploaded my version of the estes gemini titan nose cone to complete the set.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2845691

[scott_mills]

One other thing I have read about 3d printers that may be the cause is when they get taller in the Z axis, there can be more swaying from poorly supported structures.

[ghrocketman]

Decrease the sway limit.

[teflonrocketry1]

When I got my Ender 2 3D printer the first thing I did was print the 3 modifications that everyone seems to suggest; a 1mm shim for the Z axis motor, a Vrail stabilizer for the Z axis lead screw as well as a duct around the fan to cool both the extruder and parts as they are printed. You can see these last 2 mods in the first picture. Both pictures show an A-20 Demon nose cone I printed before the Titan nosecone. The A-20 nosecone is almost flawless, I used the same slicer settings and spool of filament for the Titan nosecone. Also in the pictures are 2 Centuri PNC-70 style nosecones I printed afterwards using the same slicer settings (but at a higher resolution) and filament, and they are both flawless.

Actually you can see the faceting I observed in the print of the nosecone in the thingiverse image of it. I also had a problem with the nosecap, there seems to be a gap between the bottom plate and the cup or saucer shaped top part, after placing this cap into the bottom of the nosecone the upper part that fits along the nosecone wall easily separated from the bottom half. All the images of the parts you posted to thingiverse show this same faceting.

[scott_mills]

OK i'm going to print it out and see if I can work it out what is going on .

[teflonrocketry1]

Scott,

Does thingiverse limit the file size you can post, which equates to a lower resolution .stl file?

[scott_mills]

I am not aware of any file size limits on thingiverse, I have not done anything to compress the files in any way. Perhaps it is a setting in freecad, I am new to using the software.

On the nosecap, I made a whole new one this morning which starts with a cylinder and trims away pieces until I get the shape that I want. So that the resultant 3d piece is a single piece. The pieces that I have made so far have all been primitives stacked on top of each other at exactly the defining borders between them, After creation I gather them all up and make a union in freecad. So i have printed the new nosecap however I will not post it till I have tried it in a nose cone, which I am currently printing.

I am pretty sure now that the faceting issue that you have noticed has to be an artifact with how freecad handles circular interpolation. Instead of a smooth curve, it converts it to a spline style of object.

[scott_mills]

having printed out the booster nosecone, I have found an error in the 3d design. I have now corrected that, and I will post it to the thingiverse this weekend. I'm going to print it again, and make sure it looks good.

[scott_mills]

Yay I finally got a successful print, I think it was because I am using a new pla. This stuff requires a higher infill and smaller resolution.

[scott_mills]

If anyone out there is trying to mentally justify the cost of a 3d printer, you can look at it like this, You can now download and print the parts for 3 titan model rockets, that go for $200 or more on ebay.

[teflonrocketry1]

I think my new 3D printer is well on its way to paying for itself. In the foreground of the picture is what I produced on it this past week. I have yet to separate all the rail buttons from the plastic rafts and supports they are printed on. This week was mainly nosecones, I plan to try transitions and fin cans next. I am even considering purchasing yet another 3D printer.

I like to thank all the other 3D printer owners like Scott who share their CAD files on the internet.

[teflonrocketry1]

Thread Revival:

Did anyone else read the excellent article by Thomas Salverson titled "Custom 3D Printed Rockets" on page 31 in the May/June issue of Sport Rocketry? I think the article nicely explains the process (or workflow) for creating 3D parts. It gives one a good general idea of what you can make with a 3D printer for the model rocketry hobby.

Incidentally you can download the 3D print files for the Estes Orbis kit for free at the Estes Rockets web site: https://www.estesrockets.com/001706-orbistm-3d-bulk-pack-12-pack
The ogive, tapered and rounded nosecones should also be good for a number of BT-20 (18mm) clones , same goes for the 3 fin cans.

[teflonrocketry1]

I modified my Ender 2 3D printer by increassing the length of the Z axis v-slot rail and Z axis lead screw to 500mm. This was an easy modification that cost less then $35. I didn't have to lengthen any wires or cables as there was ample length provided in the original printer kit. The attached pictures shows a completed 13.5 inch long 2.5 inch diameter conical nosecone I was able to print in one piece on the bed of the printer. I plan to use this noseocne for my Estes Panavia to make it look more like the original Cherokee D. The current configuration on my Panavia to Cherokee D clone is pictured in this thread: http://forums.rocketshoppe.com/showthread.php?t=17244

Since this nosecone came out so nice (this was the first print on the 3D printer after I modified the z axis) I am confident I can print much larger nosecones up to 6 inches in diameter and 15 inches long (counting the shoulder). I have plans to increase the Z axis length on this same printer to 1 meter, however this modification will involve lengthening all the cables and wires for the printer as well as the Z axis structures. The cables are available as a extention kit to a the Creality CR-10 printer (Creality aslo makes the Ender2) for about $20.

[DavidQ]

How thick are you making your nose cone walls?

I like your description of the Ender2 3D, and am starting to consider it for my second printer. Especially if it can easily be extended to almost 20" in height.

I had been using a Printrbot Plus that I put together several years ago, but it doesn't have a metal frame, and the extension I added tends to shade a bit for tall prints, which is bad. It has mainly a laser-cut wooden structure, and it's showing a bit of age.

[teflonrocketry1]

I use three layer thicknesses for my nose cone3D prints; with a 0.4mm extrusion nozzle diameter that translates into 1.2mm wall thickness (about 0.05 inch). I found that 2 thicknesses were not strong enough especially at the shoulder joint of the nosecones. The 3 layer wall thickness is strong enough to resist breakage at the shoulder joint when sanding prior to painting. I am using PLA filament which seems to be very crystalline making it very tough material to sand.

[DavidQ]

I had made my cones with ABS. Before sanding, I cover them with filler primer. Mainly, because I wasn't sure if the proper outside edge of the cone was the outer edge of ridge, the inner edge of the ridge, or somewhere in between. And, it results in less sanding.

[scott_mills]

So now after everyone has read this post and pondered about whether it would be worth it for them to invest in a 3d printer , I hereby offer the best reasons to justify the cost of a printer. First of all I recommend a creality cr10 , it is a great printer out of the box with little assembly required it runs approximately $400. If you find that you are mechanically inclined and want to save money then I recommend the creality ender 3, it runs around $200 . another couple of caveats this is my list of what I think are the absolute best model rocket things to print from thingiverse. I am not partial I do think that several of my own creations are on the list. That said the list.


Estes Saturn V Skylab Model rocket Conversion
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2944705

Nose Cone Fun Pack for Model Rockets
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2876174

Rocket Man
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:369704

Missile Toe v2.0 - flying tree ornament
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2695733

Fin Jig
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1521732

Titan 2 and 3e Parts ESTES
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2845691

Estes Beta Launch Vehicle #2054 Plastic Parts
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1190963

Rock-A-Chute PNC
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:270008

Estes GeoSat LV #1977 Plastic Parts
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:440953

Estes LTV Scout #1287 Plastic Parts
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:496576

Mini Mars Lander
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2869428

Mercury Capsule Launch Escape System LES estes https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2847499

List to be continued

[vcp]

You can just post a single link straight to your collections...

https://www.thingiverse.com/garyacrowellsr/collections/model-rockets
https://www.thingiverse.com/garyacrowellsr/collections/spacex
https://www.thingiverse.com/garyacrowellsr/collections/space-fact
https://www.thingiverse.com/garyacrowellsr/collections/space-starwars
https://www.thingiverse.com/garyacrowellsr/collections/space-2001
https://www.thingiverse.com/garyacrowellsr/collections/space-startrek
https://www.thingiverse.com/garyacrowellsr/collections/space-fiction

... so yeah, there's lots of neet stuf to print.


There's also a link to my collection of collections, but that gets pretty messy...
https://www.thingiverse.com/garyacrowellsr/collections
I wish I had time to print half (or 10%) of this stuff.







5%

[scott_mills]

Yes I could post a single link but it's more fun this way

A large amount of out of print and eBay overpriced rockets in this list. Buying a printer is easily justified if you figure on how much you would save over eBay prices.

Horizontal Rocket Stand
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4750

GoPro Session Nosecone for Rocket
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2340718

Motor Retainer Set for 29mm Rocket Motors
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:882815

Estes MX Missile #1916 Plastic Parts
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:427688

Estes space shuttle model rocket
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2854187

Estes Explorer Aquarius Model Rocket
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2856923

Estes Outlander 2110 Model rocket
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2859568

Centuri Skylab Model Rocket Parts KB4
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2881947

" I wish I had known about this one before I made one out of foam core"

18mm model rocket engine storage box
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2599237

X-15 Model Rocket Nose Cone
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2860970

Estes Mercury Atlas model rocket 2111
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2854660

[naslrogues]

I'll tell you what I would like to have; 3-d printed nozzles for the side boosters on the Semroc (Centuri Super Kit) USS America. The kit ones are paper that go into the end of a body tube. Having 3-D printed one with a shoulder that would slot into the body tubes would look much better and be easier to deal with. I have no intention of getting in to 3-D printing so...any takers? Please!?

[teflonrocketry1]

Do you have templates for these nozzles? The link at JimZ's site is down, once I get a good look at the shape for these, I can tell you if I can 3D print them.

I only found the ram jet nosecones and tail cones for the Centuri USS America on Doug Holverson's Thingiverse collection https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:559511.

[Bluegrass Rocket]

I’m trying to learn more about 3D printing by reading and watching videos, lots of videos. So, I’ll mention this since I haven’t seen anyone else post it. When printing your parts, keep in mind that PLA will not stand up to the outdoor sunlight or to being locked in a hot car. It will melt. ABS is the way to go for rocket parts. And you will need an enclosure for your printer to keep the ambient air warm so the ABS can cool down slowly helping to prevent warping. You will also need to turn the cooling fan off for ABS.

Regarding laser cutters, for cutting lite ply and even balsa you would need a 30 watt laser minimum. The lasers you see on eBay are all water cooled made in China lasers and you get what you pay for. Full Spectrum Laser makes a decent one with parts from overseas but, assembled in Las Vegas and water cooled, still around $3500. And if you do a lot of cutting with a water cooled laser you will probably need a chiller to cool the water down. Air cooled lasers like the Universal Versa 12” x 24” laser “desktop “ model is $15,000.

Like with most things, higher cost means higher quality. There are certainly hobby minded tools out there but, a lot of the cheap ones are quirky and require lots of fiddling. Maybe look for local maker spaces that have higher end equipment.

[naslrogues]

Teflon, I will try to get some dimensions for you soon.
Thanks!

[teflonrocketry1]

I’m trying to learn more about 3D printing by reading and watching videos, lots of videos. So, I’ll mention this since I haven’t seen anyone else post it. When printing your parts, keep in mind that PLA will not stand up to the outdoor sunlight or to being locked in a hot car. It will melt. ABS is the way to go for rocket parts. And you will need an enclosure for your printer to keep the ambient air warm so the ABS can cool down slowly helping to prevent warping. You will also need to turn the cooling fan off for ABS.

Regarding laser cutters, for cutting lite ply and even balsa you would need a 30 watt laser minimum. The lasers you see on eBay are all water cooled made in China lasers and you get what you pay for. Full Spectrum Laser makes a decent one with parts from overseas but, assembled in Las Vegas and water cooled, still around $3500. And if you do a lot of cutting with a water cooled laser you will probably need a chiller to cool the water down. Air cooled lasers like the Universal Versa 12” x 24” laser “desktop “ model is $15,000.

Like with most things, higher cost means higher quality. There are certainly hobby minded tools out there but, a lot of the cheap ones are quirky and require lots of fiddling. Maybe look for local maker spaces that have higher end equipment.

I have been watching the videos by Chris Taylor on his YouTube channel Today's 3D Print https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzdBQL1k_NRjzQ0AIpx4SEQQxKdo595qH . Chris is also the person behind NARAMLive.com . I am also a fan of Angus Deveson on his YouTube channel Maker's Muse https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxQbYGpbdrh-b2ND-AfIybg .

I have yet to test PLA plastic at high or low temperatures. This polymer is definitely more crystalline and lower melting than ABS and is much more difficult to sand. I have had my more complex ABS prints fail at the seams where the transitions and nosecones abruptly change shape. I think there is a setting in the slicing software that will remedy this. I also have printed hundreds of simple ABS nosecones that hold up to the squish test (even the shoulders stay together) without an enclosure.

[vcp]

Three new Thingiverse rocketry items

Model Rocket Fin Can - Trapezoidal Fins - Configurable
Model Rocket Fin Can - 24mm Elliptical
Model Rocket Nose Cone - BT101 Elliptical

... at the top of my collection here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/garyacrowellsr/collections/model-rockets

[vcp]

New Thingiverse rocketry item

Model Rocket Nose Cone - Estes Aquarius BT60, BT70

These feature bolt-on (or glue) shoulders, a 'pig snout' shock cord attach, and a choice of the normal single, or a dual 'orb' on the nose cone.

... at the top of my collection here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/garyacrowellsr/collections/model-rockets

[vcp]

New Thingiverse item - Sanding Profile Grips

These should be useful for holding sandpaper while sanding fillets and other nooks (and crannies).

https://www.thingiverse.com/garyacrowellsr/collections/model-rockets

[scott_mills]

My newest model rocket re creation


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2961972

Estes BLU-97B Cluster Bomb 2055

[scott_mills]

Here are a couple of newly added 3d print files that may interest you guys. The first is a stand that you can use to display your models so that they look like they are blasting off. The second is a fin gluing jig, and body tube marking jig, to make life easier when building rockets.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2978513

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2985524

[vcp]

A flickering tea light might be cool in that display stand.

There are two previous fin gluing guides on Thingiverse. They are both highly configurable (some OpenSCAD knowledge required), and they both position all fins at the same time. However they both use an 'in the tube' support, so they require that the fins must be placed before a motor mount is assembled.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2298402

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26001


I don't think that I'd had these in my model rockets Thingiverse collections before, but they are there now. https://www.thingiverse.com/garyacrowellsr/collections/model-rockets

[Rocket Babe]

We may have to get a printer. A fan of the RB book series just sent us a couple of Cestris fighters he printed. They're not huge but still pretty cool. :)

I posted a shot of them beside a regular size Cestris. I think they're about 4" long.

Verna
http://www.vernarockets.com
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HHJHOK6
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O14ET8K
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CX1UPCG
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C95BNQH

[scott_mills]

VCF the stand was designed with a electric dollar store tea light holder, that goes up into it .

Yeah RocketBabe I love looking at the Cestris, in fact i love all of the derivatives from space 1999. I went ahead and added a few new NEAT nose cones to my collection that were definitely inspired by space 1999 .

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2876174

Also added an idea i want to try out with a fincan/ motor mount similar to the estes gemini titan, but easier to print.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3015692

And I'm trying out a printed ejection baffle. Lets see if it can hold up to the temps in the long run.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3015754

[scott_mills]

If anyone is interested I finally finished A SR 71 nose cone.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2854204

[scott_mills]

If anyone is interested I just added a crusader swing wing 1961 nose cone.

[ratchetman]

How about the display nozzles for Space Transporter America?

[scott_mills]

Yeah those are pretty doable as 1 piece it looks like. However I don't own a copy that I can take any measurements from. Should be easy enough to do a rough facsimile.

[scott_mills]

Do you know if those are the same nozzles, that centuri used for The sst shuttle ? The PDF instructions sure look like them.

[scott_mills]

Thank you very much Ratchetman for years now i have been wondering what kit this set of parts from moldin oldies, was made for, now I know.

https://www.siriusrocketry.biz/ishop/moldin-oldies-srmo-sta-1-702.html

[ratchetman]

Thank you very much Ratchetman for years now i have been wondering what kit this set of parts from moldin oldies, was made for, now I know.

https://www.siriusrocketry.biz/ishop/moldin-oldies-srmo-sta-1-702.html

Lol...no problem! Actually, I'd forgotten Moldin' Oldies had them.
STA also has a unique nose cone that has a molded in panel line detail. Pt # 0033141

[scott_mills]

I can't tell by the pdf that there are any scribe lines, i figured it was just a standard bertha nose cone. Do you have any pics or a drawn diagram of where those indentations are ?

[John Brohm]

The nose, while essentially the same as a Bertha nose in shape, does indeed have some indentation lines. They demarcate 1/3rd of the nose cone area, the lines extending to the airframe as the area to be painted as the heat shield for the model. On the nose, the lines proceed to about 3/8" from the nose tip, where they are then connected by a radial indentation marking the limits of the nose radome.

[ratchetman]

I can't tell by the pdf that there are any scribe lines, i figured it was just a standard bertha nose cone. Do you have any pics or a drawn diagram of where those indentations are ?

No, I'm sorry, I don't. If I did have one I'd be happy to loan it to you, same with the body wraps. I only have the Estes Nose Cone Reference 10.1 by John Brohm to go by. This is the excerpt:

Kit Number 1338* Kit Name Space Transporter America * The Space Transporter America uses a two-piece injection molded nose identical to the PNC-60L, except for an indented panel line that is molded into the nose, and a different part number, P/N 033141. The presently available PNC-60MS could be used as a substitute to clone the model.

What I do have (I actually have two) is the Centuri ALCM Cruise Missile # 5330, which might be an ideal candidate for cloning by 3D printing. I may consider lending one of the kits for such a purpose.

[scott_mills]

How does this nosecone look?

[scott_mills]

I hope that this works well for you ratchetman

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3035892

[teflonrocketry1]

Has anyone else tried printing the free model rocket from Additive Aerospace? https://www.additiveaerospace.com/products/additive-aerospace-model-rocket

I printed out a copy using PLA filament (2 layer thicknesses, 0.2mm resolution, 0.4mm nozzle) see attached photo. The 3D printed model rocket weighs around 80 grams total with parachute and shock cord.

I flew the model on a C6-3 motor as suggested by RockSim (I can post the simulation file if anyone is interested). The flight was great, nearly straight up, and looked to be close to the 700' AGL rocksim predicted. The model came down nice on the 18" plastic parachute I used. Upon recovery the fin can was bent (see the other 2 pictures attached). The spent motor was welded into the motor mount and had to be removed by unwinding the paper casing from the inside. I intend to try PET, a higher temperature filament, for my next attempt at a totally 3D printed rocket. I have now stored several 3D printed nosecones made out of PLA filament in a hot car for most of the day (temperatures above 90F outside) and have not seen any warping.

Incidentally, the model in the picture is in front of the my 2 attempts at 3D printing a 4 inch diameter by 30 inch long (including shoulder) nosecone for my LOC/Precision Iris. I modified my Ender 2 printert to have a 920mm bed height. Both of the long nosecone prints fell off the printer bed before completion. Obviously I haven't got all the issues resolved with this printer modification, but I am still working on it. The completed conical nose cone on the left of the 2 failed 3D prints is a 13 inch long PLA cone I used to convert my Estes Panavia into a Cherokee D like clone.

[nerys]

I have flown quite a few 3d printed rockets (its my thing 54 3d printers and climbing yeah gearbest is crazy :-)

anyway the trick is quite simple really. paper tube up the center. that's it. everything else can be plastic (mounts retention cr's all of it) I even 3d print 13 18 24 and 29mm motor retainers though I have not tested the 13 and 18mm yet.

all you have to do is design the model to accept a paper tube up the center so the engine and ejection charge never directly dance with the plastic and your golden.

also use a stand off so splash back off the deflector plate does not mingle with the plastic.

[nerys]

[QUOTE=teflonrocketry1]When I got my Ender 2 3D printer the first thing I did was print the 3 modifications that everyone seems to suggest; a 1mm shim for the Z axis motor, a Vrail stabilizer for the Z axis lead screw

get rid of this. it will only cause you pain in the long run. the lead screw should never be locked down. ie do not "fix" the top end of the lead screw.

in a perfect world.... not a perfect world $200 printer.

by locking down the lead screw you turn your kinematics into "framing" since the lead screw is rigid. this means if the lead screw is not "PERFECTLY" straight and "perfectly" aligned with the vertical rail you will have 2 forces acting in opposition as the lead screw shimmies around and pushes and pulls on the vertical rail and by extension your X arm and carriage assembly

IE z banding. you can install the little bracket just make sure the hole for the lead screw is large enough that it can wiggle around a couple of mm's if it wants too this way it won't transfer force to the rest of the printer and therefore your print.

its one of the easiest mods to make to a tevo printer (tornado, michealangelo, flash) remove the 2 screws remove the bearing. leave the lead screw "free"

much better prints. this is why if you look on creality printer the lead screw appears restrained but if you touch it you will see it can "wiggle around" in that mount. that is good.

[scott_mills]

If anyone has a nose cone idea, they want to try out, and need some help getting it cadded up, I am very willing to help you create and print it. I am bored and running out of my own ideas, and want to keep playing with the cad program. So if anyone has some WILD or FANTASTIC idea they want created, just shoot me a line.

[nerys]

yes all the old exotic nose cones! I can't wait to print the aquarius nose cone. how about some tubes for the cargo pods on the aquarius. ie put panel details and stuff on them to make it even nicer than the stock plain paper tubes design.

so much potential! once they are 3d we can scale them up and down.

I can print a half meter cubed in a single part !! and I have 4 printers that can do 400x400x500 !

[teflonrocketry1]

If anyone has a nose cone idea, they want to try out, and need some help getting it cadded up, I am very willing to help you create and print it. I am bored and running out of my own ideas, and want to keep playing with the cad program. So if anyone has some WILD or FANTASTIC idea they want created, just shoot me a line.

Scott,

One of the reasons I got into 3D printing was to allow me to easily make puller type designs. Think of a "Deuces Wild" with both motors mounted and ducted through the nose cone, I call it a hammerhead design. I also want to mount just one motor canted off vertical inside the nosecone and duct it down the body tube ( I call that one the sturgeon). While I was at it I considered 3 or even more nosecone mounted motors. Since all the weight is in the nose it should make for some stable and very interesting designs (fins on a narrow boom or even a hammer head shark shaped model). Besides canting the motors off the vertical a slight horizontal cant should make for some interesting spinning effects.

I also wanted to 3D print some Rocketarium oddroc designs like the Votico's and Rebel's . A 3D printed Rocketarium Toxic Typhoon or Terraformer would also be cool.

[teflonrocketry1]

[QUOTE=teflonrocketry1]When I got my Ender 2 3D printer the first thing I did was print the 3 modifications that everyone seems to suggest; a 1mm shim for the Z axis motor, a Vrail stabilizer for the Z axis lead screw

get rid of this. it will only cause you pain in the long run. the lead screw should never be locked down. ie do not "fix" the top end of the lead screw.

in a perfect world.... not a perfect world $200 printer.

by locking down the lead screw you turn your kinematics into "framing" since the lead screw is rigid. this means if the lead screw is not "PERFECTLY" straight and "perfectly" aligned with the vertical rail you will have 2 forces acting in opposition as the lead screw shimmies around and pushes and pulls on the vertical rail and by extension your X arm and carriage assembly

IE z banding. you can install the little bracket just make sure the hole for the lead screw is large enough that it can wiggle around a couple of mm's if it wants too this way it won't transfer force to the rest of the printer and therefore your print.

its one of the easiest mods to make to a tevo printer (tornado, michealangelo, flash) remove the 2 screws remove the bearing. leave the lead screw "free"

much better prints. this is why if you look on creality printer the lead screw appears restrained but if you touch it you will see it can "wiggle around" in that mount. that is good.

Chris,

I drilled out the V-rail stabilizer with a 3/8 inch bit. It is now just an open ring (essentially a bracket as you suggest) that limits the maximum deviation of the vertical z axis lead screw. I learned the hard way not to restrain the Z-axis lead screw. I can't believe there are so many people who have posted this useless modification that actually ruins the print quality of the Ender 2. I think I downloaded at least 5 different designs of these from Thingiverse.

I think the electrical wires that hang off the Ender 2 gantry get too heavy at about 20 inches into the print and over torque the Z axis drive motor. I am trying to figure out how to overcome this issue. I have attached pictures of the modified Ender 2 printer alongside an unmodified one (yes, that is a yard stick taped to the V-rail Z axis). On the picture with the 30 inch long nosecone 3D print in progress you can see the wire harness that is hanging down along the printer. The print was practically flawless until the nosecone fell off the printer bed!

[vcp]

My NARAM C Egglofter was 100% 3D printed. On Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3056609

My other NARAM models were mostly printed as well - they'll be on Thingiverse as I get them written up.

[teflonrocketry1]

My NARAM C Egglofter was 100% 3D printed. On Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3056609

My other NARAM models were mostly printed as well - they'll be on Thingiverse as I get them written up.

Gary,

Thanks for sharing this 3D printed model rocket design! I am working on building an enclosure for my 3D printer so I can print better parts from ABS filament.

[scott_mills]

Hey vcp, what are the flight characteristics on that egg lofter ? Engine and altitudes flown? Loved it when I first saw it pop up on thingiverse just a few days ago.

[vcp]

Hey vcp, what are the flight characteristics on that egg lofter ? Engine and altitudes flown? Loved it when I first saw it pop up on thingiverse just a few days ago.

I only had the chance to fly it once at N60 with an Estes C6-5. That flight was in a light wind, off of an 18" piston with tower. The altimeter came back as 274 meters. Flight was very vertical and straight, but there seemed to be a small high frequency 'shimmy' in the smoke trail. It *may* have popped before apogee - I didn't have a good viewing angle on it.

Ah, just now for the first time since that flight I re-opened the OpenRocket file on it. The sim says 175 meters with an opt delay of 4.8 sec. However the weight there is 34 gm, while my actual weight was 21 grams - Looks like perhaps a C6-7 would have been a better choice.

I'm thinking I might build another one without gluing on the fin can. Then print perhaps three cans with different fin sizes, and tape on the fin cans for comparison flights. It's very easy to alter the fin size in the OpenSCAD code.

[teflonrocketry1]

Did anyone read the most recent Apogee Components Peak Of Flight newsletter (issue 476)? This article gives my tips on making 3D printed model rocket parts with RockSim; no CAD program required!

[vcp]

I've just posted my printed NARAM-60 Payload model design to Thingiverse here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3061709

[scott_mills]

If anyone out there is like me and wanted to build a flying model of the Phoenix from star Trek First Contact, here is a nose cone I just finished in BT60 size. I hope you enjoy .

You can download it from here.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2876174/edit

[luke strawwalker]

If anyone out there is like me and wanted to build a flying model of the Phoenix from star Trek First Contact, here is a nose cone I just finished in BT60 size. I hope you enjoy .

You can download it from here.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2876174/edit

Cool... how about the warp nacelle nose cones?? What size would they be?? Would a BT-60 and BT-20 roughly in scale, or more like BT-5's?? Just wondering...

I've considered building a model of it in "warp configuration"... it'd have to have some clear fins at the rear to connect the "warp nacelles" the main fuselage, and some slender "pylons" at the front to simulate the "warp pylons"... Probably some clear "supplementary fins" to augment the aerodynamic stability some as well...

I think something similar to the futuristic Estes "Scorpius" design would work... or the "Nebulon Warrior"... I'm thinking similar type fin arrangement, only mostly clear fins would work well... putting them on the "warp nacelles" reduces the size they have to be and gets them out into "clean air" for greater effectiveness...

Here's some stuff I have accumulated...

Later! OL J R :)

[LeeR]

What about a good, home-hobbyist-sized laser cutter for making our own custom centering rings?

I know nothing about these machines except (on the websites I have been searching) they seem to be way oversize for my needs, and offer no information about ability to cut cardboard or thin ply. I am looking for something maybe 6x6 inches, although my current need is only for something that could do 4x4 work. Surely there must be something out there that doesn't cost an arm and a leg....

I worked for a prototyping shop a few years ago prior to retiring. I did a lot of work on CNC routers and a laser engraver. We had a big Epilog Laser that could accept stock up to about 36” in length, 24” in width. I used it to cut centering rings and fins from plywood and balsa. It would easily handle 1/4” material, but I mostly cut plywood up to 1/8” and balsa up to 3/32”. Before I left I cut all kinds of centering rings, both single motor and cluster, in sizes I used most. I’d love to find a small laser for home. Maybe it’s time to do some research into small systems. The big lasers are still very expensive.

Regarding material, they are very versatile. Cardboard or card stock is as easy as balsa or plywood. You just adjust the cutting power and speed. I even cut acrylic. The edges looked like they had been polished. Just amazing. I recall looking at the manual and seeing settings for materials you might not think about, like leather. Very versatile.

[scott_mills]

Hey there Luke, here is the first cone for you, and your nacelles. I scaled them to be BT20 size.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2876174

[scott_mills]

And now here is the other endcap for the warp nacelle

[CenturiKid]

Not quite a cone, but here is a project I want to try. Attached are dimensions for my Estes Lunar launch pad. It uses a 1/4 inch dowel for legs. I just started playing with CAD (Tinkercad) and really have no idea what I am doing, so any help/advice is appreciated. Eventually, I want to try to measure my PowrPad and Electro-Launch for 3D printing, but thought I start with something a bit easier to measure.

http://i347.photobucket.com/albums/p450/CenturiKid/20180830_212502_zpsuxpkurxe.jpg (http://s347.photobucket.com/user/CenturiKid/media/20180830_212502_zpsuxpkurxe.jpg.html)

http://i347.photobucket.com/albums/p450/CenturiKid/20180830_210915_zpszg68xjrf.jpg (http://s347.photobucket.com/user/CenturiKid/media/20180830_210915_zpszg68xjrf.jpg.html)

http://i347.photobucket.com/albums/p450/CenturiKid/20180830_211017_zpsrncxf4u1.jpg (http://s347.photobucket.com/user/CenturiKid/media/20180830_211017_zpsrncxf4u1.jpg.html)

[tbzep]

My daughter and future son-in-law candidate are both engineering majors. School started back this week for them and I noticed a big thick AutoCAD book on the table. Looks like a 3D printer could possibly be in my future without me even having to learn new software! I'm hoping there's a fancy one at school so they can do class projects, rocketry style. :cool:

[luke strawwalker]

Cool beans... Thanks Scott! Great work!

Later! OL J R :)

[scott_mills]

I just saw a great rocket posted at thingiverse that is just plain awesome. Have a look and download it. Not even my design. It reminds me of the Estes interceptor series of models. It comes with decals, and also a great catalog description.

Valkyrie model rocket by Aslansmonkey - Thingiverse


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3079212/comments

[BEC]

That one is cool indeed. I like the military camouflage-painted Big Foot launch pad in one of the pictures he posted, too. :)

[GlenP]

If anyone has a nose cone idea, they want to try out, and need some help getting it cadded up, I am very willing to help you create and print it. I am bored and running out of my own ideas, and want to keep playing with the cad program. So if anyone has some WILD or FANTASTIC idea they want created, just shoot me a line.

How about a fin can? I have been thinking about recreating the original plastic fin can for a Centuri Screaming Eagle. I am surprised there is not one of those available.

http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2014/08/centuri-screaming-eagle-build-finished.html

or the nose cone for the Zooch Vanguard Eagle?
https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2011/02/dr-zooch-vanguard-eagle-build-part-42.html

[CenturiKid]

Well, my lunar launch pad project has hit a snag. I got the feet caps and the stand off designed and they print well, but I can't figure out how to design the center hub in tinkercad. Even when I break everything down into simple shapes, I get stuck trying to put the tripod together at an angle and design in the supports and such. 3D design is so much different than the CorelDraw I'm used to, but I've had fun trying and feel like I may have learned something.

On the plus side, I did manage to create a pretty nice 13mm tube coupler and a pretty good likeness of a nose cone for my 13mm Enerjet Nike-Ram cardstock model.

I have a new appreciation for the wizardry used to create the designs linked to in this thread. Great job!

[scott_mills]

Glen p, challenge accepted, I like that zooch vanguard eagle cone. I guess it is sort of fair game since Dr. Zooch is closing up shop. I will have to do a little research on both designs since I do not have either, be otherwise it would be me making an approximation from pictures, which is mostly what I do anyway. I just have to finish up what I am currently working on, flash Gordon 1980 zarkoff rocket nose.

[DavidQ]

Well, my lunar launch pad project has hit a snag. I got the feet caps and the stand off designed and they print well, but I can't figure out how to design the center hub in tinkercad....
I use FreeCad for my 3D models. I've not used Tinkercad, so can't compare them very well.

I assume by the center hub, you mean that yellow item in post 85, which looks like the rod and leg holder. If so, my approach with FreeCad would use the ability to subtract parts from other parts, and then to add parts with other parts.

For instance, one of the leg supports could be a tall cube, with a cylinder subtracted from it. Then, the result could be tipped outward or inward. This shape could be duplicated two more times, and each of the new legs could be rotated around the center axis by 120 degrees.

The part to hold the rod could be a cone (flat on top and bottom), with a cylinder subtracted from it.

The most complex part could be the wings. FreeCad lets you make flat drawings, and extrude them, which would work. I'm not really good at that yet. So, I'd probably start with a thin, tall cube that is more than the wing. I would then create another cube, move it upward a bit, and subtract it from the wing. That could give the wing with a squarish look. With yet another thicker cube, tipped a bit and moved upward, I would try to subtract another section from the wing, for that sloped section on the top. The resulting shape could be duplicated and rotated for the three wings above the three legs.

But, those three wings would extend into the legs, at least with what I've described so far. To solve that, I'd first add the three wings into a single part. Then, I'd want to subtract off the bottom of the wings. For that, I'd make a cone that is wide at the base, and a point at the top, that intersects the legs, and even covers the holes for the wooden dowels. Now, this code could be subtracted from the three wings. That would leave the wings not interfering with the holes in the legs.

Of course, subtracting in FreeCad is "Make a cut of shapes" and add is "Make a union of several shapes".

[scott_mills]

Freecad is the best , it is what I have used to create all of the stuff I have posted on thingiverse. If anyone wants them they are welcome to have my raw freecad files for manipulation and improvement. The downside is they tend to be much larger than an stl file.

[CenturiKid]

I use FreeCad for my 3D models. I've not used Tinkercad, so can't compare them very well.

I assume by the center hub, you mean that yellow item in post 85, which looks like the rod and leg holder. If so, my approach with FreeCad would use the ability to subtract parts from other parts, and then to add parts with other parts.

For instance, one of the leg supports could be a tall cube, with a cylinder subtracted from it. Then, the result could be tipped outward or inward. This shape could be duplicated two more times, and each of the new legs could be rotated around the center axis by 120 degrees.

The part to hold the rod could be a cone (flat on top and bottom), with a cylinder subtracted from it.

The most complex part could be the wings. FreeCad lets you make flat drawings, and extrude them, which would work. I'm not really good at that yet. So, I'd probably start with a thin, tall cube that is more than the wing. I would then create another cube, move it upward a bit, and subtract it from the wing. That could give the wing with a squarish look. With yet another thicker cube, tipped a bit and moved upward, I would try to subtract another section from the wing, for that sloped section on the top. The resulting shape could be duplicated and rotated for the three wings above the three legs.

But, those three wings would extend into the legs, at least with what I've described so far. To solve that, I'd first add the three wings into a single part. Then, I'd want to subtract off the bottom of the wings. For that, I'd make a cone that is wide at the base, and a point at the top, that intersects the legs, and even covers the holes for the wooden dowels. Now, this code could be subtracted from the three wings. That would leave the wings not interfering with the holes in the legs.

Of course, subtracting in FreeCad is "Make a cut of shapes" and add is "Make a union of several shapes".

Thanks for the tips! I have actually had FreeCad installed for some time, but was discouraged from digging into it because of internet descriptions of it being hard to use/challenging to learn. Tinkercad seemed more geared for people with zero experience, which seemed to fit my profile better. I'll fire it up tonight and start playing around.

[scott_mills]

Despite the aged special effects, mediocre acting, and extreme overdubbing I still love Flash Gordon 1980. Here is my rendition in Native BT 60 size, the nosecone/space capsule from that movie.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2876174

[ghrocketman]

A major sci-fi fan and BAR buddy of mine still raves about the 1980 Flash Gordon.
I HATED it.
Seeing it again 30+ years later proved to me that once was seeing it wayyyy too much.

[DavidQ]

I have actually had FreeCad installed for some time, but was discouraged from digging into it because of internet descriptions of it being hard to use/challenging to learn.
If you want to use the parametric features, then FreeCad is hard.

But, I do like using it for modeling with basic solids, like cones, cubes, and spheres. As a hint, the newer version, v0.17, has much better tools for making other basic shapes that we would use in rocketry. And, it has better tools for positioning the parts.

[scott_mills]

Centurikid Here is a step by step how I did it with freecad files included . Hopefully it offers some advice to help you along the way to your future creations. I like FREECAD for its very precise control over the position and orientation of parts.


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3085934

[scott_mills]

This one is for GLEN P , here is the centuri Screaming Eagle finset. I made it using published sizes for ST 7 and 8 , it may fit a little tight, you would have to check it and see. I myself don't use Centuri size tubing. You can find it at the end of this batch of THINGZ . I would be glad to try to reproduce the Zooch Vanguard Eagle NC, but I don't own a copy. Does anyone reading this thread have any info on it they could provide for me?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2876174

[tbzep]

A major sci-fi fan and BAR buddy of mine still raves about the 1980 Flash Gordon.
I HATED it.
Seeing it again 30+ years later proved to me that once was seeing it wayyyy too much.
Maybe he was raving about Flesh Gordon. :confused: :p



.

[scott_mills]

Ahhh ahhh he'll save every one of us

[ghrocketman]

Ugh, Ugh !
PEUKE, PEUKE !

[GlenP]

This one is for GLEN P , here is the centuri Screaming Eagle finset. I made it using published sizes for ST 7 and 8 , it may fit a little tight, you would have to check it and see. I myself don't use Centuri size tubing. You can find it at the end of this batch of THINGZ . I would be glad to try to reproduce the Zooch Vanguard Eagle NC, but I don't own a copy. Does anyone reading this thread have any info on it they could provide for me?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2876174

Cool! Thanks for sharing the fin can files. I just downloaded FreeCAD and was able to load up your model. I am going through their on-line tutorials to learn how to use it.

The Model Rocket Building blog has several posts on the Zooch Vanguard Eagle, with the most detailed pictures you can find. It may require some reverse engineering and assumptions about the sizing of the details, but you can use the pictures and known body tube diameters to estimate. Some useful info on dimensions, for example:

https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2011/01/dr-zooch-vanguard-eagle-build-part-16.html
"In the instructions, you have the option to make a small camera pod blister. It's a tiny egg shaped bump glued to the upper part of the resin cast nose cone. The finished size is 1/8" w X 3/16" L."

https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2011/01/dr-zooch-vanguard-eagle-build-part-15.html
"The nose cone, 1" section of T-55 tube and balsa coupler were assembled dry. I made sure to put the ballast end of the balsa coupler towards the nose cone end. I marked a pencil ring around the coupler at 3/4" from the rear end of the t-55 tube."

a couple of close up pictures of the nose in nearly profile side view:
https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2011/01/dr-zooch-vanguard-eagle-build-part-34_26.html
https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2011/02/dr-zooch-vanguard-eagle-build-part-42.html

check out the little nozzles:
https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2011/01/dr-zooch-vanguard-eagle-build-part-41.html

[scott_mills]

Challenge Completed


Ok Here it is the NC from the Vanguard Eagle , I am likely to do a few more parts for that model . I am thinking I would also like to make a set of nozzles, and readily printed booster pods .

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2876174

[GlenP]

Challenge Completed


Ok Here it is the NC from the Vanguard Eagle , I am likely to do a few more parts for that model . I am thinking I would also like to make a set of nozzles, and readily printed booster pods .

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2876174

AWESOME! That looks really great. Many thanks! For helping make parts to clone both of those Eagles! (Screaming and Vanguard) :-)

[scott_mills]

Here is a bonus, My take on the Vanguard Booster pods, and engine bells.

[scott_mills]

I went back to the explorer Aquarius, and made 3 different BT20 tank tube bracing systems. These guys should make the assembly easier and more decorative. Just assemble separate from the main body tube then slide onto the main tube and epoxy into place.

You can find these to download at.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2856923/edit

[CenturiKid]

Finally got a chance to print out the lunar launch pad, and it looks great! I also have started to try and follow the steps in freecad, and have gotten much farther than my previous attempts at trying to design something. The upgrade advice coupled together with a good order of operations for deign really have been helpful. Thanks again to Scott and everyone on this thread. If you are on the fence about 3D printing; go for it. It really is a lot of fun and has endless uses for this hobby.

[luke strawwalker]

Glen p, challenge accepted, I like that zooch vanguard eagle cone. I guess it is sort of fair game since Dr. Zooch is closing up shop. I will have to do a little research on both designs since I do not have either, be otherwise it would be me making an approximation from pictures, which is mostly what I do anyway. I just have to finish up what I am currently working on, flash Gordon 1980 zarkoff rocket nose.

If you need specs and pics I have a flown one... It's a neat kit and I did a really detailed beta-build thread on it here on YORF and at the Terribly Run Forum many moons ago...

Later! OL J R :)

[GlenP]

If you need specs and pics I have a flown one...
Does the Vanguard Eagle booster have any kind of recovery, other than tumble/ballistic? What size chute does the sustainer use? Would be interested in body tube sizes and lengths too.

[scott_mills]

The body tube lengths can be found on this page .

https://www.rocketreviews.com/rocksim-dr-zooch---vanguard-eagle.html

I'm thinking of doing a couple of minor changes to the NC to make it print without supports. As it is the boosters on the outside at the bottom of the NC will at minimum delaminate without supports as they are. But if I deviate from the original and round the bottom of those then they should print ok.

[scott_mills]

I like this version better myself.

[scott_mills]

I added this nosecone just in case estes puts it back in the vault.

[GlenP]

Another unique nose cone suggestion: from the Estes Star Rider and Nemesis kits. It has a bubble canopy like the Lynx & Scorpion, and canard fins.

http://www.spacemodeling.org/jimz/est2010.htm

https://jonrocket.com/store/products/nemesis-model-rocket/cat-1_38_2_6?zenid=edh5gbkb8fd0t89pkjqjc0knq0

[scott_mills]

here ya go GlenP, enjoy . My take on it without having 1 to measure.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2876174/files

[ghrocketman]

That one is an interesting cone I forgot about.
Looked around on that auction site for a reasonably priced Star Rider kit years ago but gave up.

[matthew]

here ya go GlenP, enjoy . My take on it without having 1 to measure.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2876174/files

Nice effort. I've wanted this cone for years. It must have been available separately at one time as I'm sure I bought one from Thrustline.

[GlenP]

here ya go GlenP, enjoy . My take on it without having 1 to measure.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2876174/files

Looks very good. I just bought one of the Nemesis kits from JonRocket, I will try to make some measurements and try my hand at building one in FreeCAD, if I get the chance to learn how to use it. I found a local 3D printing service and ordered the Vanguard and Screaming Eagle parts, I will try to clone those eventually.

[vcp]

I've updated my Trapezoidal Fin Can on Thingiverse. The OpenSCAD file is the same but I've added a bunch of pre-configured cans for anyone who might not be comfortable working with OpenSCAD. If anyone wants a particular configuration that's not there, just let me know and I can work it up.

Also, I've run all of the .stl's through Netfabb to clean things up. If anyone has had non-manifold problems with them before, that should be fixed.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2954100

[vcp]

On that Trapezoidal Fin Can widget, I just discovered the OpenSCAD Customizer (not the Thingiverse Customizer). When running OpenSCAD on the FinCanTrapV2.scad file (now on Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2954100 ) the OpenSCAD Customizer allows Windows-style controls to be used to select parameters of the Fin Can. This relieves anyone of the task of editing the source code file - you can skip the OpenSCAD editor completely.

It does require a bit of set-up when starting OpenSCAD, but that process is detailed in the file and in the Thing instructions.

[vcp]

Working on the OpenSCAD Customizer Fin Can Thing that I mentioned earlier in this thread got me to take another look at a transition component generator that I had done some time ago. I had never posted it earlier because I'd included so many features in it that it was really too complex to expect anyone to edit the parameters in the OpenSCAD file. The Customizer makes those parameters accessible. The features include:

* Conventional upper and lower shoulders.
* Optional inset smooth shock chord attachment point.
* Optional center holes for screw attachment.
* Optional ducted through version for gas flow or weight reduction.
* Optional cylindrical sections above or below the transition.
* Optional tube 'socket' instead of shoulder on smaller diameter end.
* Optional shoulder edge bevel.
* Available print support for transition/shoulder rim.
* Available cross-section or 3/4 views to view internal structure for development.

The user still has to install OpenSCAD and there is a bit of set-up to do that is detailed in the file and in the notes on Thingiverse. I'm hoping folks will find it worth that little trouble.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3104666

[scott_mills]

Anyone out there have an idea for a nose cone or part they want to see turned into a 3d printed part, but don't want to go to the trouble of learning cad? I really want to keep sharp with my skills and am very willing to collaborate to create something new for you .

[GlenP]

I found a local 3D printing shop and had them make the Centuri Screaming Eagle fin can and the Vanguard Eagle nose cone. The fin can needs lots of work, one fin in particular has some changes in thickness, more than the typical printing artifacts, it will need some filler to clean up and get it smooth. The main tube seems to fit an engine mount tube, I don't have a main body tube the right size, but with some sanding it should be able to fit, seems to be a close enough approximation of the original, the fins are a little thick now, but after sanding them smooth they should end up close to the final thickness of the original.

The Vangaurd Eagle nose cone has some deep printing ridges that will be hard to smooth out while retaining the panel lines that you want to keep. I am thinking that those details may need to be deeper so they don't get smoothed out with the artifacts. They only had three of the little nozzles and claimed that your CAD file only had 3 in there. They don't fit into the holes on the cone, so I may just use toothpicks and cardstock for those nozzles. I may have to just smooth it out completely and then put on decals where those panel lines used to be.

I asked them to print the fin can in blue, and then pre-paid, $25 for each part, when I came to pick it up I was surprised to see that they had printed the fin can in white. Not sure why they did not tell me they did not have the blue color that I asked for before they took my money. Really not happy with how long it took for them to get these done, nearly a month often not responding within 3 or 5 days to my questions, then give me not the color that I asked for, and have the quality not really that good. Very disappointed, but will try to make rockets out of these and see how they turn out. Not going back to that 3d print shop again. Probably a better investment to get your own 3D printer than to deal with a shop run as poorly as this place was, I expect they won't be in business that long if they treat all their customers with the same lack of regard.

Sorry, for the rant, I really appreciate the CAD models you have shared here, I think with the right 3D printing shop could be made into high quality parts. Ironically I was hoping to find a local shop that I could deal with in person to avoid the issues that I just encountered. After this experience, I am ready to go back to my cardstock modeling, or what I call 2D printing.

[DavidQ]

Probably a better investment to get your own 3D printer than to deal with a shop run as poorly as this place was,
With 3D printers down to the $100 to $130 range, for DIY kits, it easily can be.

I recently got a Prusa clone, and am printing at 0.01875 mm per slice. It takes hours to print a nose cone, but the finish is really fine. Just a bit of sanding with 220 to 400 grit, and some gray primer is needed.

[LeeR]

With over 130 unbuilt kits, and LOTS of parts, I’ll be busy for 25 or more years building what I already have. I’ll probably revisit getting a 3D printer then. ;)

[matthew]

I recently got a Prusa clone, and am printing at 0.01875 mm per slice.

Link?

[GuyNoir]

I think with the right 3D printing shop could be made into high quality parts. Ironically I was hoping to find a local shop that I could deal with in person to avoid the issues that I just encountered. After this experience, I am ready to go back to my cardstock modeling, or what I call 2D printing.

Check out this site:

https://www.3dhubs.com/

I used them recently for some 1/4A Helicopter Duration model parts and was quite satisfied. Good communication from the supplier and pretty quick turnaround.

[DavidQ]

The link was on ebay, looking for "Prusa I3 Mk3 diy kit 3d printer". They start at about 127 to 150.

[scott_mills]

LEE I totally agree with you about catching up with physically building things. Since the last 3d build that I posted I started working on my own kit, clone, create, repair pile which at the start contained about 80 models. In the last few weeks I've gotten that down by about 20 models. It is definitely cool to do 3d files that benefit everyone that wants them, but it is also pretty cool to do some self benefiting stuff also, and clear out some of the junk in the garage. BTW good way to speed the process up is to be working on atleast 3 models at a time. You can slide over to the next one while the fin is setting on the BT, or while a coat of paint is drying.

However my offer still holds if anyone needs help turning a idea for a part or nose cone into a 3d print, just let me know.

[matthew]

The link was on ebay, looking for "Prusa I3 Mk3 diy kit 3d printer". They start at about 127 to 150.

What I learned from that is there are a LOT of companies trying to cash in on the Prusa I3 name that have printers in that price range. :chuckle:

[GlenP]

Started work on smoothing out the Centuri Screaming Eagle fin can. I started with some medium grit sanding in between a few coats of laquer sanding sealer. It does not soak in like on balsa wood at all, but it does build up and fill in the little cracks from the printing process and is sandable. I am moving to fine grain and will probably spray a coat of gray primer once I get it sufficiently smoothed out. Got most of the printing artifacts smoothed out, but turns out to be just as much or more effort than sealing balsa grain. Time to put an order together for a body tube and nose cone.

[luke strawwalker]

Does the Vanguard Eagle booster have any kind of recovery, other than tumble/ballistic? What size chute does the sustainer use? Would be interested in body tube sizes and lengths too.

It's a tumble/ballistic recovery. The chute is the standard Dr. Zooch "trash bag" chute, same as every other Dr. Zooch kit.

I'm in Indiana at the moment, so I can't do any measurements til I get back home... probably be a couple weeks at least.

Later! OL J R :)

[GlenP]

After the sanding sealer, lots of sanding from medium to fine, 1st coat of gray, sanding most of it off, 2nd coat of gray, 400 grit smoothing out most of the printing artifacts, and first light coat of blue...starting to look like a fin can. I have been wanting to reproduce this rocket for a while, and thought about the Semroc Stellar Spartan, but that does not have the plastic fin can. I think this one will not match exactly, but will be a very close reasonable facsimilie. The hard part will be metallic stickers/decals.

So, I will be ordering some parts for this and the Vanguard Eagle to try to complete those kits from the 3D printed parts you provided and try to do them justice.

You were asking for additional ideas. NASA is launching an Orion Ascent Abort Test next year, l like to think of this as the Little Joe III. There are a few pictures on the NASA web. Not sure what the best size or scale would be for the Orion nose cone and tower, to be somewhat consistent with an 18mm or 24mm motor mount like the Estes Little Joe and Little Joe II kits. Maybe you can take a stab at it. The tower is much simpler, but has some exterior and interior nozzle details.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6HK9G7feXEk

https://www.nasa.gov/feature/nasa-moves-up-critical-crew-safety-launch-abort-test

[scott_mills]

Glen, were you thinking in the 1/35 scale range?

[GlenP]

That should keep it near 2” dia or C power, hopefully. Sounds about right.

[GlenP]

Actually, a 3” dia 24mm power version would be cool... Orion is a tad bit bigger than Apollo.

[scott_mills]

What are you thinking of doing for fins?

[GlenP]

probably just some simple square gray or white fins, like on the Zooch Mark II
https://www.rocketreviews.com/review-797136.html

https://www.rocketreviews.com/images/archive/images6/zooch_mkii01.jpg

I would just extend the body tube and paint the fin can portion gray. Could possibly do a ring fin or a cone fin also. Alternately, could be friction-fit/removable for display like the Zooch flame fins on other kits. Would put the fin can in place of that tripod launch pad in this picture. If you have an idea, feel free to model one up for it as well.

[GlenP]

For the Centuri Screaming Eagle nose cone, I found a ThingyVerse file, but will probably just order the balsa equivalent from eRockets.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:576222

http://www.erockets.biz/semroc-balsa-nose-cone-8-4-6-rounded-ogive/

http://www.spacemodeling.org/jimz/kf-3.htm

The fin can is looking good, was shooting my final top coat, and got a bug on one fin. So, I will have to let that dry and sand down again for another final top coat.

[ghrocketman]

I definitely would not BOTHER printing a cone when a balsa one already exists for ordering.

[GlenP]

Glen, were you thinking in the 1/35 scale range?

After giving this some more thought, I had not realized the actual difference in diameter from Mercury and Apollo and Orion. So, here is a summary, double check me if I misread these from Wikipedia.

full scale capsule diameter:
80" Little Joe
154" Little Joe II
192" Little Joe III (Orion AA-2)

Estes kit scale/dia
1/34 2.34" Little Joe
1/45 3.42" Little Joe II

So, some scale/dia options for a LJIII model
1/96 2"
1/64 3" (Estes Big Daddy diameter)
1/45 4.27"
1/34 5.64"

I like the manageable sizes of a 2" or 3" rocket for 18 or 24 mm power, but if you are going to stand this up next to the Estes LJII, then you should match the 1/45 scale to show the relative size difference. Hopefully could still build it light enough for 24mm power, not sure how heavy the 3D printed cone/tower would be. You can always go bigger, I did not realize how large the model dia would be at 1/34 scale, I did not do that mental math very accurately at all earlier.

[tbzep]

1/49 will get you a BT-101 and a 1/51 scale will work with a BT-100. These scale will let your model stair step to a larger diameter (though not same scale), but not too big if you want to be able to fly LP and MP.

[GlenP]

That makes even more sense, to look at standard body tube sizes and pick an appropriate scale based on an available body tube dia... I think the BT-100 (3.744") or BT-101 (3.938") are very good options.

http://www.erockets.biz/body-tubes-2/

[GlenP]

Back to the Screaming Eagle, I really like how the fin can turned out, and I just got some tubes and the balsa (BC-846 equiv to PNC-89) nose from eRockets.

I think your fin can is about 1/4" too short. The 3" engine mount tube protrudes 3/8" when inserted all the way to the step, but I think only about 1/8" should protrude. If you look at this image from the plans, it seems like there is a little more body tube on top of the fin root, another 1/4" would allow for the 1/8" protrusion. I think it will be fine and look close enough, and probably not impact stability to have the engine aft 1/4" beyond the built-in safety margin of the design. Here is a picture of the obligatory dry fit of the parts, next to an Alpha VI for size comparison, another similarly constructed kit with a plastic fin can.

Making my own metallic stickers will be a challenge, I may try to apply my own print at home ink-jet decals on a metallic sticker like Trim Monocote or something similar.

http://www.spacemodeling.org/jimz/kf-3.htm

http://www.spacemodeling.org/jimz/centuri/kf-3f.tif

http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2014/08/centuri-screaming-eagle-build-part-8.html

I should be able to trim 1/4" off the length of the 3" engine mount, and insert the engine hook 1/4" closer to the top end to match the external appearance and get the engine position correct in the fin can.

[GlenP]

The inside diameter of the fin can is too small to fit the ST-7 engine mount tube. The original was not a constant thickness but had some ridges to hold the body tube which made it easier to slide the engine mount tube into the fin can. I am sanding out the inside of the fin can to make it large enough so I can get the engine mount tube to fit, this is a slow process.... UPDATE: I have been hand sanding using a dowel and medium grit, but still can only get the engine tube about half way in before locking up. I am going to make a little sanding drum from a dowel and medium grit paper to put in my drill, I don't have a mini-tool, so hopefully that will get me enough clearance so I can get the tube with an engine hook inside the fin can.

see this picture of the original fin can for the internal ridges or raised ribs that hold the engine mount tube, the fin can body is not a constant thickness all the way around the circumference.
http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2014/08/centuri-screaming-eagle-build-part-2.html

[GlenP]

PDF from NASA has a good side view picture on page 4, could use to extract dimensions of the Little Joe III...

https://www.nasa.gov/exploration/systems/orion/media-resources
https://www.nasa.gov/sites/default/files/atoms/files/aa2_fact_sheet.pdf

[scott_mills]

There is a printable version of the whole model on thingiverse I downloaded it myself, however I want as much detail as I can get into it because it is such a smooth model. Here is my WIP for my 3D model , I am designing it based on ST20 tubing, which is approximately 1/100. I will also re scale it and post it in multiple sizes based on several tubes. I should be done with mine tomorrow sometime.


thingiverse file Orion Ascent Abort Model
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1104468

[GlenP]

...Here is my WIP for my 3D model , I am designing it based on ST20 tubing, which is approximately 1/100....

Funny, I was just about to order some ST20 body tube and a balsa cone to try to mock up one of these. I am going to go through the parts list for the Vanguard Eagle also and get some tubes to build that based on your nose cone model that I had printed, when I get done with the Screaming Eagle.

[scott_mills]

I have posted the orion LAS BPC in several size variations.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3188333

[GlenP]

Wow, that looks really great! (screenshot attached)

I guess you could use the ST20 size for a full SLS model also, would be pretty impressive.

[scott_mills]

I did that a few years back ,with a paper nose cone of my own design. Now I can replace that paper one with something more stout,

[GlenP]

Wow, that is an impressive rocket. Do you use removable fins for flight, or is that display only?

[scott_mills]

Removable fins shared between 3 different rockets.

[GlenP]

Here is the initial dry-fit of parts for the Centuri Screaming Eagle with the printed fin can with SEMROC body tubes/balsa nose cone. The nose cone has a few coats of sanding sealer and a couple of coats of Rusto2X Gloss Apple Red, sanded and ready for final top coats. You can see how the engine tube extends a tad bit too far out the bottom of the fin can, but there should be enough margin where I can trim that off and mount the engine thrust ring a little higher in the tube to compensate for that. Body tube is naturally white, I am on the fence about painting white over it, or leaving it unpainted. Still have to do more sanding to the inside of the fin can to have enough tolerance to get the engine hook to fit in there with the engine mount tube.

[GlenP]

Redrawing the Screaming Eagle decals in Inkscape. I have some chrome peel and stick that I will use and try to print these on ink-jet decal paper and apply them on top of the chrome sticker. Hopefully that will look close enough to the original. (screen grab of Inkscape drawing)

[ghrocketman]

That's a nice looking Screaming Eagle

[GlenP]

I probably should have started a new build thread rather than digress from the original 3D printing subject, there are lots of other cool models available for printing in that rocket parts collection of 3D models. The Screaming Eagle is easy enough to clone using standard body tubes and balsa fins, but really cool to have this printable plastic fin can 3D model to match the construction of the original.

[scott_mills]

I'm sure there are some BAR's out there who would like to clone the ESTES 1974 Explorer, so here is my take on the nosecone. You can download it here -

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2876174

[scott_mills]

And now here is this one also 10 EST 2015 StrikeFighter

[GlenP]

Nice additions to the collection. Strikefighter nose looks similar to the mini brute Wolverine (http://plans.rocketshoppe.com/estes/est0816/est0816.htm) , but that one has a cardstock canopy.

[scott_mills]

I like it I will have to add it to my list. You can definitely see the difference between the two, the strike fighter is made of cones, the wolverine is an ellipsoid. Should provide me with some good hours of entertainment making that. Much better than television.

[scott_mills]

This is for Ratchetman

Centuri ss America 5310 display nozzles 2 different flavors

can be found at this url
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3251588

[scott_mills]

I just wanted to share another cad creators work because they made some awesome 3d parts available for download.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3256728

[scott_mills]

And here is another awesome creation.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3249782

[LeeR]

I just wanted to share another cad creators work because they made some awesome 3d parts available for download.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3256728

I like the multi-tube transitions. Those are really hard to do on a wood lathe ...
;)

[scott_mills]

What I love the most about what you see there is that everything is absolutely customizable. Want a different body tube size no problem, different transition length, you got it. Even the nose cones listed can have different length and diameter changes , so that you can have the exact part you are looking for. It's not just what you see is what you get, that is just the taste to we your appetite. The iceberg really is 90% submerged.

[astronwolf]

And here is another awesome creation.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3249782
I like the multi-tube transitions too. I'm just wondering how these parts can be insulated from the heat produced by ejection gasses. It's a simple matter to slip fit a cardboard body tube inside a simple hollow transition, but these are a little more complicated.

[scott_mills]

As far as insulation from melting goes, there are a few things to consider. Even if you used the lower melting temp pla the election gases are being diffused to extra large paths kind of like a baffle. The second thing is the election charge is not focused on the area specifically for more than what half a second. It takes a few seconds to melt the Thermo plastic so the thing to really worry about would be if the walls caught a burning particulate. Otherwise the inner walls will just glass slightly which is a good thing, it will make the flow smoother.

[scott_mills]

Astronwolf , a way to actually insulate that I have been considering is using the shiny metal tape you can find at hardware stores, that is used to seal duct works. I think it might be aluminum tape but I am not sure. Anyway, it conforms to of shapes and has an adhesive surface I'm going to actually use it for atleast one upcoming 3d projects to see how it works out.

[GlenP]

...metal tape you can find at hardware stores, that is used to seal duct works....

I think they make different types, either Aluminum or Steel, and different thickness for different temperature ratings. They also have high-temp BBQ paints as an option.

The foil tape is also a cheap option for decorative metallic bands on rockets, compared to Monokote, etc.

[LeeR]

How about brushing a coat of epoxy onto the inner surfaces? That should at least act like an ablative coating. I typically use CA on cardboard motor tubes if they are standard tubes, figuring I might be lucky and actually have the rocket last long enough to worry about motor tube burnthru.

[teflonrocketry1]

Scott,

I am no longer using PLA filament for my 3D prints; instead I am using ABS which I find to be less brittle and much more heat and warp resistant. ABS, at least in my experience, is much easier to sand smooth than PLA and accepts paint and glues made for plastics well. The attached picture is is of some ABS parts that I recently printed. I am trying to clone an Estes Geo Sat LV. I got the files for these 3D plastic parts from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:440953

The key to printing with ABS was to use the right extruder temperature, I had to do a lot of trial and error runs before I found the ABS plastic's optimal print temperature. Note that I do not have an enclosed printer as is generally reccomended for ABS filament. I also haven't had any issues with the ABS filaments picking up moisture. I am using both Hatchbox and Solutech brand ABS filaments and have got great 3D print results with both of them.

Have you tried 3D printing with ABS filament? I am interested in hearing your thoughts and experiences with filaments other than PLA.

[scott_mills]

I personally have not yet used anything other than PLA, I'm not against ABS, just haven't had the need as of yet. If you want to print the satellite in one shot, I went and did that part also. I wanted it as a single part I wouldn't have to glue together. If you are interested it can be found on my nosecones page. Cone number 26

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2876174

[scott_mills]

Ignore last comments I need to do some re engineering on that nose cone. Thanks Teflon for the heads up.

[blackshire]

Scott,

I am no longer using PLA filament for my 3D prints; instead I am using ABS which I find to be less brittle and much more heat and warp resistant. ABS, at least in my experience, is much easier to sand smooth than PLA and accepts paint and glues made for plastics well. The attached picture is is of some ABS parts that I recently printed. I am trying to clone an Estes Geo Sat LV. I got the files for these 3D plastic parts from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:440953

The key to printing with ABS was to use the right extruder temperature, I had to do a lot of trial and error runs before I found the ABS plastic's optimal print temperature. Note that I do not have an enclosed printer as is generally reccomended for ABS filament. I also haven't had any issues with the ABS filaments picking up moisture. I am using both Hatchbox and Solutech brand ABS filaments and have got great 3D print results with both of them.

Have you tried 3D printing with ABS filament? I am interested in hearing your thoughts and experiences with filaments other than PLA.Bruce, I have a few questions concerning gluing, prepping, and painting 3D printed ABS plastic parts, which I have included below. (I have arranged them in such a format that they could be reproduced--as an informational "Sticky" here on YORF, if Scott so desires--in a simple 'question-and-answer' FAQ form, following any editing that he sees fit to conduct). They are as follows:

Which type or types of plastic model cement would you recommend for gluing ABS plastic parts--including 3D printed ones--in the following situations:

[1] ABS-to-ABS?

[2] ABS-to-polystyrene?

[3] ABS-to-paper (as in gluing a 3D printed ABS fin unit--or fin can--into, or onto, a Kraft paper body tube)? Also:

I have read (in G. Harry Stine's "Handbook of Model Rocketry," if memory serves) that the MEK--Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone--type liquid plastic cement (such as Testors's), and also the "tube-type" (Toluene-containing) plastic cement (such as Testors's, Pactra's, etc.), work well for plastic-to-plastic joints involving ABS and/or polystyrene parts, and that:

The "tube-type" (Toluene-containing) plastic model cement produces strong ABS-to-paper (and polystyrene-to-paper) joints, especially if [1] the paper bonding surface is lightly sanded, and [2] the plastic part's bonding surface is sanded with coarse sandpaper (or sanding film)--and/or is scored with a knife or a single-edged razor blade--before the "tube-type" cement is applied. It was recommended--for plastic-to-paper joints--that the cement be applied ^only^ to the plastic part's bonding surface (unless the to-be-glued plastic surface will be *inside* the paper part, such as a body tube), which is allowed so soften a bit before the two parts are pressed together, so that the plastic cement/plastic part "bridge" will soak into the paper somewhat, to bind them together. As well:

I realize that epoxy, polyurethane, cyanoacrylate, and contact cements (and even "model airplane glue" [balsa cement, which will even bond some plastics surprisingly well]) are also available. But more readily available, safer (if used with ample ventilation) hobby glues that will work with ABS, polystyrene, and paper particularly interest me (with white glue [PVA white glue doesn't age like Elmer's: www.thesawguy.com/what-is-pva-glue/ ] and yellow wood glue being, of course, great for paper and wood bonds), because kids can use them safely--with appropriate instruction, of course--and because some of the more specialty-type cements cause chest tightness and shortness of breath when I use them. Plus, regarding painting 3D printed ABS plastic parts:

[A] What sandpaper (and/or sanding film) grade(s) and method(s) would you recommend for 3D printed ABS plastic parts? (In my experience--but with polystyrene, not ABS--one uses extra-fine grade, or fine grade [or medium grade, followed by fine or extra-fine grade, if a kit's injection-molded or vacu-formed polystyrene parts are of mediocre surface quality], then washes off the 'plastic dust' with soap & water, or perhaps with rubbing alcohol, then lets the parts dry before proceeding with primer-ing and/or painting.) This leads to:

[B] Which--[I]*IF* one method ^always^ produces qualitatively better results than the other (not just faster or easier results)--painting method is better for 3D printed ABS parts, brush painting, or spray painting (using spray cans or an airbrush)? Spray painting, using either method (spray cans or an airbrush), is definitely faster than brush painting, but brush painting can be done safely indoors without ventilation, such as on winter days (if water-based acrylic paint is used). Brush painting is also not uncommonly easier, when small--and especially, very tiny--detail parts must be painted different colors than the surrounding parts or areas; doing this via masking and spray painting would be much harder, and:

According to multiple books (including G. Harry Stine's "Handbook of Model Rocketry"), acrylic paints (such as those made by Floquil, Tamiya, Testors, etc.) are water-based, can be thinned with water, don't smell, dry to a hard finish, don't yellow with age, and don't leave brush marks if applied with a brush. They can be applied using either a brush or an airbrush (which can be powered by aerosol-type pressurized propellant cans, a larger carbon dioxide cylinder [used with a pressure regulator], a garage- or hobby-type air compressor, or--with some airbrush models--even a tank-type vacuum cleaner [with the airbrush being connected to the airflow-output end]), and:

Because acrylic paint is water-based and can be thinned with water, (hand) brushes and airbrushes that are used to apply it to models are easy to clean. This makes changing paint colors when necessary, and cleaning up the brushes before putting them away, much simpler tasks. These listed advantages lead to the following two acrylic paint-related questions:

[C] Do the aforementioned advantages of acrylic paints--applied via brush and/or airbrush--also apply to 3D printed plastic parts?

[D] If so, do clear acrylic paints go over cured colored acrylic paints (and/or over applied-and-dried water-transfer and/or "crack-and-peel" decals), without "fogging" and/or yellowing such paints and/or decals? Also, regarding paints:

[E] Do enamel, lacquer, polyurethane, and/or epoxy paint(s) go over 3D printed ABS plastic parts well, and if so, do their clear variants go over the colored (dried-and-cured) ones? In addition:

It has been "a few paint chemistry generations" since I last used enamel or lacquer paints in spray cans (judging by the discussions about the newer formulations that I've read here on YORF, the new stuff doesn't sound like it's better than the old, thanks to the EPA...), but I recall a few general tips that may still apply:

Enamel can be sprayed over dried-and-cured lacquer, but doing the opposite--even if the enamel "undercoat" is dry--will result in a crazed, crinkle finish. All plastic parts (except cast polyurethane and epoxy ones, which require lacquer paints [and polyurethane, epoxy, or contact cements for bonding purposes]) must *only* be painted with enamel paints (acrylic paints will also work on non-polyurethane, non-epoxy plastics, I *think* [at the very worst--if I'm wrong--the acrylic paint just won't stick to ABS or polystyrene plastic]), BUT:

Lacquer spray paint ^can^ be used on polystyrene--and possibly also ABS--plastic parts, *if* the first coat of lacquer is just a light "dusting," and is allowed to dry thoroughly before more spray paint--either lacquer or (preferably) enamel--is applied. The initial, 'dusted-on' lacquer coat softens and "bites into" the very uppermost surface of the plastic, which causes the next coat of paint to cling tenaciously to the lacquer undercoat. While the subsequent coats of paint ^can^ be lacquer, they must to applied in many, very light coats--which must all be allowed to dry thoroughly before the next coat is sprayed on--in order to avoid melting the plastic, and this takes a long time. Unless one is building a museum, international-level scale competition, or movie miniature model, it's just as well--not to mention quicker--to use enamel coats applied over the initial lacquer undercoat.

I hope this information will be helpful, and many thanks in advance for your help!

[teflonrocketry1]

Ignore last comments I need to do some re engineering on that nose cone. Thanks Teflon for the heads up.

Scott,

Do you have a file for the Estes PNC- 72689 nosecone? It was part of model rockets like the Estes Voyage II see: http://www.spacemodeling.org/jimz/estes/est2000j.jpg

Bruce

[GlenP]

Looks like that one is still available in the Sci-Fi assorted pack:
https://www.estesrockets.com/rockets/accessories/nose-cones/003173-sci-fi-nose-cone-assortment-5-pk
https://www.estesrockets.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/265x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/0/0/003173_main.png

and used on the current Odyssey:
https://www.estesrockets.com/rockets/kits/skill-5/007235-odysseytm

and by the Xarconians for their Cruiser (http://www.hobbylinc.com/estes-xarconian-cruiser-model-rocket-kit-pro-series-skill-level-5-3223) & Destroyer (http://www.spacemodeling.org/jimz/est1903.htm)

[teflonrocketry1]

For Gluing ABS to ABS I have been using Testors Plastic Cement containing MEK. I use it to glue 3D printed ABS parts together, I let them set up or dry overnight. I did this for my Estes MX missile clone and later accidently droped it on the floor; the glue joints held up nicely but the thin ABS fins on the fin can didn't.

For gluing these 3D printed ABS parts to paper tubes I use tube type plastic cement and rough up the plastic up with coarse sandpaper. ABS is very similar to polystyrene and the techniques I use for gluing and finishing them are virtually the same. ABS is short for Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene it is a copolymer of styrene, acrylonitrile and polybutadiene. Typically around 50% styrene 30% acrylonitrile, and 20% butadiene, these amounts can vary depending on the characteristics of the plastic. Expxy and CA glues also work on 3D printed ABS. I should mention that I am a professional chemsit by training.

[A] For 3D printed ABS I sand down the corduroy finish with 220 grit sand paper followed by 400 grit and then apply Rust-Oleum Light Gray Automotive primer (#2081). If I am using the bare plastic as the exterior of a model I sand with 600 grit then 1200 grit and do a final polish with automotive scratch remover or whintening toothpaste on a clean cotton cloth. I then sometimes coat the plastic part with Krylon Crystal Clear Acryic spray paint (#89116).

[B] I have a huge indoor ventilated pinting booth and I only spray paint my models. I apply a heavy coat (slightly runny to almost dripping) of gray automotive primer over 3D printed ABS parts, polystyrene parts, bare deep grained balsa and basswood as well as over Estes textured paper body tubes with deep spiral grooves. I don't use sanding sealer anymore since the automotive primer works so well. I let this coat dry for over 48 hours then sand it back with 220 grit followed by 400 grit until the original surfaces just start to appear or show through. If you try to sand the primer coat in less than 48 hours the sandpaper will clog and you will not get good results. Next I recoat the entire models surface with Rust-Oleum American Accents Flat white primer (#327914). If I need to preserve fine details in the 3D printed or other plastic parts, wood carvings or paper embossings, I wil forgo the heay coat of gray automotive primer and use only a thin coat of the white primer. I wait 48 hours and then sand this coat with 400 grit paper. If there is a gray colored primer coat below this white primer it is eay to tell when you are sanding too far down into the previous base coat. I have had issues of CA glues causing both enamels and laquers to craze and wrinkle over the areas where they were applied even through a thick coats of primers!

[C] I only use brush paint for fine detail work and touch ups. The ring on the upper part of my Red Nova nosecone see http://forums.rocketshoppe.com/showpost.php?p=225645&postcount=7 was hand pinted using a very fine nylon brush and Testors enamel paint. I sometimes use acrylic paints over the white primer mentioned above. I did this on the nosecone for my FlisKits Nantucket Sound (see attached) but I couldn't get as smooth of a surface as I do with enamels and lacquers. An overcoat of Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic helps hide the brush strokes and other blemishes in the acrylic paint. My friend Andrew swears by Testors Acrylic paints and uses them on the exterior of his models. He gets a nice smooth finish; he is also a professional painter by trade, but he tells me its the paint not the painter!

[D] The Krylon crystal clear works great over acrylic paint, enamels, lacquers, home made inkjet decals and 3D printed ABS, but it is not compatible with some markers and silk screened decals; it causes the makers to run and the silk screen decals to warp and move. I use Future Floor Wax (FFW, now Pledge with Future Shine) over silk screened decal sets, enamel, acrylic, laquer paints and 3D printed ABS plastic. I apply full strength with a foam brush over an entire model. I have also used FFW in an air brush to spray it over small areas less than 2 inches square; you can thin it with water if desired. This clear finish can be removed with ammonia water and is compatible with all the above except water colors and washable markers.

[E] ABS is mostly styrene and I have yet to see anything different from the behavior of styrene itself; if it works on styrene it will also work on ABS. Most of the plastic nosecones Estes makes are thin polystyrene. That said there are still the general rules of painting like never put a laquer over an enamel finish or you will get alligatoring and crazing. Laquers dry smooth in about 15 minutes , enamels take at least overnight to dry to touch. Laquers are sensitive to moisture and humidity and never should be applied in over 70% humidity unless you are going for the fish-eye surface look in your top coat. I aways wait 48 hours or more before applying another coat over any paint; this was a hard learned lession. I always let the clear acrylic coat cure for at least 48 hours over my home made decals before I attempt to use them. I find the under coat of the flat white (and/or gray) primer which likes to go on the surface as a nice thin film helps to preserve the plastic parts and keep them from crazing even after application of a laquer.

I have also found the new Krylon white primer (#3455) is unsuitable for use as a primer under anything, I am not sure why Krylon even relaesed this new formulation; everything I have apllied over it wrinkles and crazes. Krylon laquers used to be my prefered spray paint, but with the formulation changes I now almost soley use Rust-Oleum enamels.

[teflonrocketry1]

Looks like that one is still available in the Sci-Fi assorted pack:
https://www.estesrockets.com/rockets/accessories/nose-cones/003173-sci-fi-nose-cone-assortment-5-pk
https://www.estesrockets.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/265x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/0/0/003173_main.png

and used on the current Odyssey:
https://www.estesrockets.com/rockets/kits/skill-5/007235-odysseytm

and by the Xarconians for their Cruiser (http://www.hobbylinc.com/estes-xarconian-cruiser-model-rocket-kit-pro-series-skill-level-5-3223) & Destroyer (http://www.spacemodeling.org/jimz/est1903.htm)

Glen,

Thanks! I think I have that Sci-Fi NC assorment pack around here somewhere!

[LeeR]

Krylon laquers used to be my prefered spray paint, but with the formulation changes I now almost soley use Rust-Oleum enamels.

I too use Rusto paints almost exclusively. If you’ve seen build posts by scigs30, he swears by Krylon Acryli-Quik spray paint. It’s the old “Interior-Exterior” acrylic lacquer, with a new name. Only available online, by the case, 6 cans in a case. At some point I’ll bite the bullet and order white, black, yellow, and red. Maybe more colors if I’m feeling flush with cash for paint.

[blackshire]

For Gluing ABS to ABS I have been using Testors Plastic Cement containing MEK. I use it to glue 3D printed ABS parts together, I let them set up or dry overnight. I did this for my Estes MX missile clone and later accidently droped it on the floor; the glue joints held up nicely but the thin ABS fins on the fin can didn't.

For gluing these 3D printed ABS parts to paper tubes I use tube type plastic cement and rough up the plastic up with coarse sandpaper. ABS is very similar to polystyrene and the techniques I use for gluing and finishing them are virtually the same. ABS is short for Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene it is a copolymer of styrene, acrylonitrile and polybutadiene. Typically around 50% styrene 30% acrylonitrile, and 20% butadiene, these amounts can vary depending on the characteristics of the plastic. Expxy and CA glues also work on 3D printed ABS. I should mention that I am a professional chemsit by training.

[A] For 3D printed ABS I sand down the corduroy finish with 220 grit sand paper followed by 400 grit and then apply Rust-Oleum Light Gray Automotive primer (#2081). If I am using the bare plastic as the exterior of a model I sand with 600 grit then 1200 grit and do a final polish with automotive scratch remover or whintening toothpaste on a clean cotton cloth. I then sometimes coat the plastic part with Krylon Crystal Clear Acryic spray paint (#89116).

[B] I have a huge indoor ventilated pinting booth and I only spray paint my models. I apply a heavy coat (slightly runny to almost dripping) of gray automotive primer over 3D printed ABS parts, polystyrene parts, bare deep grained balsa and basswood as well as over Estes textured paper body tubes with deep spiral grooves. I don't use sanding sealer anymore since the automotive primer works so well. I let this coat dry for over 48 hours then sand it back with 220 grit followed by 400 grit until the original surfaces just start to appear or show through. If you try to sand the primer coat in less than 48 hours the sandpaper will clog and you will not get good results. Next I recoat the entire models surface with Rust-Oleum American Accents Flat white primer (#327914). If I need to preserve fine details in the 3D printed or other plastic parts, wood carvings or paper embossings, I wil forgo the heay coat of gray automotive primer and use only a thin coat of the white primer. I wait 48 hours and then sand this coat with 400 grit paper. If there is a gray colored primer coat below this white primer it is eay to tell when you are sanding too far down into the previous base coat. I have had issues of CA glues causing both enamels and laquers to craze and wrinkle over the areas where they were applied even through a thick coats of primers!

[C] I only use brush paint for fine detail work and touch ups. The ring on the upper part of my Red Nova nosecone see http://forums.rocketshoppe.com/showpost.php?p=225645&postcount=7 was hand pinted using a very fine nylon brush and Testors enamel paint. I sometimes use acrylic paints over the white primer mentioned above. I did this on the nosecone for my FlisKits Nantucket Sound (see attached) but I couldn't get as smooth of a surface as I do with enamels and lacquers. An overcoat of Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic helps hide the brush strokes and other blemishes in the acrylic paint. My friend Andrew swears by Testors Acrylic paints and uses them on the exterior of his models. He gets a nice smooth finish; he is also a professional painter by trade, but he tells me its the paint not the painter!

[D] The Krylon crystal clear works great over acrylic paint, enamels, lacquers, home made inkjet decals and 3D printed ABS, but it is not compatible with some markers and silk screened decals; it causes the makers to run and the silk screen decals to warp and move. I use Future Floor Wax (FFW, now Pledge with Future Shine) over silk screened decal sets, enamel, acrylic, laquer paints and 3D printed ABS plastic. I apply full strength with a foam brush over an entire model. I have also used FFW in an air brush to spray it over small areas less than 2 inches square; you can thin it with water if desired. This clear finish can be removed with ammonia water and is compatible with all the above except water colors and washable markers.

[E] ABS is mostly styrene and I have yet to see anything different from the behavior of styrene itself; if it works on styrene it will also work on ABS. Most of the plastic nosecones Estes makes are thin polystyrene. That said there are still the general rules of painting like never put a laquer over an enamel finish or you will get alligatoring and crazing. Laquers dry smooth in about 15 minutes , enamels take at least overnight to dry to touch. Laquers are sensitive to moisture and humidity and never should be applied in over 70% humidity unless you are going for the fish-eye surface look in your top coat. I aways wait 48 hours or more before applying another coat over any paint; this was a hard learned lession. I always let the clear acrylic coat cure for at least 48 hours over my home made decals before I attempt to use them. I find the under coat of the flat white (and/or gray) primer which likes to go on the surface as a nice thin film helps to preserve the plastic parts and keep them from crazing even after application of a laquer.

I have also found the new Krylon white primer (#3455) is unsuitable for use as a primer under anything, I am not sure why Krylon even relaesed this new formulation; everything I have apllied over it wrinkles and crazes. Krylon laquers used to be my prefered spray paint, but with the formulation changes I now almost soley use Rust-Oleum enamels.Thank you for posting this detailed guide for gluing and painting the different 3D printed *and* Estes-used plastics, Bruce! Formulations have indeed changed (and new paints have appeared) since I last worked with them. (You could probably also 3D print formulation- and shape-optimized hybrid motor fuel grains [and propellant grains, too, if you could make it in filaments wound onto spools and 3D print the grains at low enough temperatures to avoid self-ignition :-) ])

[scott_mills]

This was a really cool print to download

[asennad]

I tried printing Scott Mills Saturn V BT-80 wrap section using spiral mode (Cura) or vase mode. Although the print ultimately failed as what was printed was only the outer shell and was too thin. I realised what a perfect way of creating wraps this is. The original design replaced a section of the body tube but I am going to enlarge the scale slightly and print it so it slides on a standard bodytube. The detail is amazing. Printed on a Ender 3 Pro.

print

[asennad]

Also I've got the Saturn 1B BT-60 parts printed. But what tubes are the eight fuel tanks tubes? I assumed that they were BT-5s but those are too big.

Many thanks Scott for creating these amazing designs and releasing the files for free.

[mwtoelle]

The Saturn IB tank tubes should be 0.441" in diameter at that scale (1:159). The closet commercial tube is a BT-4 with an outside diameter of 0.448".

[LeeR]

I tried printing Scott Mills Saturn V BT-80 wrap section using spiral mode (Cura) or vase mode.

[…]

That looks amazingly smooth! Very nice!

[asennad]

Here are a couple of wraps I printed for Scott Mills BT-80 Saturn V (version 2) :https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3192548

I printed the two wraps using vase (or spiral) mode scaled up to 102 percent so that they fit over the BT-80 tube. Spiral mode only prints the outside wall of the item which creates a very nicely detailed and thin wrap.

The second picture is how the model was originally designed with the wraps being structural.

[tbzep]

Here are a couple of wraps I printed for Scott Mills BT-80 Saturn V (version 2) :https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3192548

I printed the two wraps using vase (or spiral) mode scaled up to 102 percent so that they fit over the BT-80 tube. Spiral mode only prints the outside wall of the item which creates a very nicely detailed and thin wrap.

The second picture is how the model was originally designed with the wraps being structural.
Now that's a BT-80 sized Saturn I could get into! :cool:

[LeeR]

I'd like to get a 3D printer eventually. I'm not an early adopter. I joke that I'm waiting for one that has input hoppers that accept plastic soda bottles and aluminum cans.

I think a laser cutter will be the first hi-tech shop equipment I splurge on.

I’m of the same mindset. I want a laser cutter. I worked in a prototyping shop about 5 years ago, and used lasers and CNC routers to cut a variety of parts from wood and acrylic. I also managed to cut a number of centering rings and fins while there. As a woodworker, I’d enjoy having a CNC router, but as a model rocket builder, the laser would edge it out on my priority list.

[timorley]

This has inspired me to try 3D printing. These are parts Scott Mills designed for a BT-60 Saturn 1B. He states they are a work in progress, but thought I'd give them a try.

[blackshire]

This has inspired me to try 3D printing. These are parts Scott Mills designed for a BT-60 Saturn 1B. He states they are a work in progress, but thought I'd give them a try.Ah--that's a nice-looking (with good surface details, too) pair of parts!

[BigRIJoe]

This has inspired me to try 3D printing. These are parts Scott Mills designed for a BT-60 Saturn 1B. He states they are a work in progress, but thought I'd give them a try.

Very nice. Two questions: What are you planning to use for the first stage body tubes and how do we contact Scott?

[scott_mills]

Scott is right here, I read this thread pretty regularly and you can also pm me. I don't respond quickly to pm's on thingiverse but u do eventually. Right now I am about Midway through two huge projects for myself. I am creating toy ships for a couple of 3-3/4” vintage SciFi toy lines. By the way I like what was done for the s1b wraps also. I need to go back and finish that model off, I only left it half done.

[timorley]

I'm going to use a dowel rod as a mandrel and use thin card stock to make the 8 tubes. I'll probably print the black and red lettering on the card stock so I don't have to mask and paint the tubes, just clear coat them.

[timorley]

Scott,

I fully realize you are not done and there are parts to yet create and tweaks to the current parts. And no hurry on you finishing it. For some feedback, the shoulder for the transition is super tight in a BT-60, you have to force it in. I'll sand it down and it will be okay, but you might want to see if you can adjust it a little. The shock cord attachment you incorporated in it is awesome, looks really strong. I'll start a build thread when I get a chance. I'll give you feedback on how it goes. But really super job so far, this is going to make for a great rocket and a really nice size. I saw your Saturn V, looks terrific too, may give that a try. A number of years ago I scratch built a BT-80 based Saturn V with paper wraps and plastruct for the little bits, this 1B will be pretty much the same same scale and a good companion piece. I may build your version 2 of the BT-80 Saturn V as well, I liked the idea in one of the previous posts of printing the wraps in vase mode.

Tim

[CenturiKid]

Here is my 3D fleet. Bt-60 Jupiter C/Juno 1, Mercury Redstone, and Gemini Titan. All are printed wraps on label paper with cardstock fins. And, the mighty BT-80 Saturn V. The white wraps are also printed label paper. I learned my lesson about priming PLA first on the Sauturn V, the paint wicked into the layer lines and ran all over, but hopefully it will make a good test platform until I get another one printed. The Redstone and the Titan have flown, both flew nicely on a C6-3.

Scott, those are your designs on the Redstone and Gemini capsules, and version 2 of your Saturn V. Thanks for posting all of these, they really turned out nice.

The Jupiter C was a scaled robnee design, along with the fin unit for the Gemini. If you are following this thread too, thanks go out to you as well.

[CenturiKid]

Here is another project, a 13mm cardstock Interceptor. Parts were posted by tbastion (Thanks!), and I scaled them to fit the bt-5 airframe. Tracing all the decals was a pain, and a few are missing on this pass, but overall I like the way it turned out.

[timorley]

I'm going to use a dowel rod as a mandrel and use thin card stock to make the 8 tubes. I'll probably print the black and red lettering on the card stock so I don't have to mask and paint the tubes, just clear coat them.

Scott, I take back that the transition is a tight fit in a BT-60 for the Sat 1B, bought a better printer and it fits fine. Also discovered if I upscale the fin unit to 103% the inside diameter
then matches a BT-60 and from there I found the Semroc BT-4 from eRockets seems to work well as the tank tubes, 8 of them fit in the BT-60 and the upscaled fin unit.

[Quasar]

Here are a couple of wraps I printed for Scott Mills BT-80 Saturn V (version 2) :https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3192548

I printed the two wraps using vase (or spiral) mode scaled up to 102 percent so that they fit over the BT-80 tube. Spiral mode only prints the outside wall of the item which creates a very nicely detailed and thin wrap.

The second picture is how the model was originally designed with the wraps being structural.

Looks great! What slicer software did you use? Thanks.

[scott_mills]

I have made a few New nosecones to add to my Nosecone repository on thingiverse. You are now welcome to download and print for yourself Apollo BPC in 5 sizes BT 70,58,50,20,5 In addition if anyone wants 1 of the 3 extra prints I made BT 50,20,5 You are welcome to them for nothing more than the cost of shipping.

Download here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2876174

[A Fish Named Wallyum]

I have made a few New nosecones to add to my Nosecone repository on thingiverse. You are now welcome to download and print for yourself Apollo BPC in 5 sizes BT 70,58,50,20,5 In addition if anyone wants 1 of the 3 extra prints I made BT 50,20,5 You are welcome to them for nothing more than the cost of shipping.

Download here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2876174
:eek: Impressive! :cool:

[the mole]

Thanks, scott_mills for the great nose cones you have done. I have printed some of your nose cones and rockets and they have come out nice-looking prints.

I have a question. Have you thought about designing a nice 1/200 scale Saturn LUT that could be paired to go with ESTES 1/200 Saturn V?

I don't think it would have to be super detailed but enough to give the Saturn a nice stand.

[scott_mills]

No i Have not thought of doing that because I actually built my bt80 saturns a little before that came out, so I had no real desire to dp anything for tat size. Good news is though there are a few already on thingiverse you might just have to scale them appropriately.

[jeffyjeep]

I'd like to get a 3D printer eventually. I'm not an early adopter. I joke that I'm waiting for one that has input hoppers that accept plastic soda bottles and aluminum cans.

I think a laser cutter will be the first hi-tech shop equipment I splurge on.

I know what you mean! I didn’t have a mobile phone until 2002.

[scott_mills]

And now for something a little more modern

[timorley]

Really great work on these capsules!

[olDave]

I worked for a prototyping shop a few years ago prior to retiring. I did a lot of work on CNC routers and a laser engraver. We had a big Epilog Laser that could accept stock up to about 36” in length, 24” in width. I used it to cut centering rings and fins from plywood and balsa. It would easily handle 1/4” material, but I mostly cut plywood up to 1/8” and balsa up to 3/32”. Before I left I cut all kinds of centering rings, both single motor and cluster, in sizes I used most. I’d love to find a small laser for home. Maybe it’s time to do some research into small systems. The big lasers are still very expensive.

Regarding material, they are very versatile. Cardboard or card stock is as easy as balsa or plywood. You just adjust the cutting power and speed. I even cut acrylic. The edges looked like they had been polished. Just amazing. I recall looking at the manual and seeing settings for materials you might not think about, like leather. Very versatile.

I think we have the makings of a small club for "I want a home laser cutter" but I still need some help picking out a machine.

I get more confused than I get educated when I try to read up online about hobby laser cutters. Surely someone out there can step in here and make a few recommendations.

Not trying to derail this thread (I'm reading along on this one too) but I think the subject of laser cutters fits closely in with 3D printers. I still want to find a small cutter for cardboard and balsa CRs. Anybody help?

[Earl]

I think we have the makings of a small club for "I want a home laser cutter" but I still need some help picking out a machine.

I get more confused than I get educated when I try to read up online about hobby laser cutters. Surely someone out there can step in here and make a few recommendations.

Not trying to derail this thread (I'm reading along on this one too) but I think the subject of laser cutters fits closely in with 3D printers. I still want to find a small cutter for cardboard and balsa CRs. Anybody help?

Sorry that I can't add any new information to your question, but maybe it IS time to have a separate thread on this, maybe "Laser Cutting for Everyone" or something similar, so that folks that do have working knowledge of these can help the rest of us.

I too would like to learn more and maybe get a laser cutter one day. I think I'd probably do one of those before I did a 3D printer.

Earl

[blackshire]

Sorry that I can't add any new information to your question, but maybe it IS time to have a separate thread on this, maybe "Laser Cutting for Everyone" or something similar, so that folks that do have working knowledge of these can help the rest of us.

I too would like to learn more and maybe get a laser cutter one day. I think I'd probably do one of those before I did a 3D printer.

EarlI agree. A laser cutter has many model rocketry-relevant uses--cutting sheet balsa, sheet basswood, and 0.050" gauge Beveridge board (fiber or fibre) fins, strakes, gussets, centering rings, boost-glider mounting hooks, etc. They could also be used--for large and/or lightweight models, including scale models--for cutting internal frame parts, as well as outer skin panels, for building contoured, semi-monocoque fins (metal aircraft and sounding rocket fins frequently use this lightweight yet strong, frames-backed skin structural method). Also:

For creating smaller models or parts, a laser-guided, "3D cutter/chisel" (with interchangeable blades, depending on the desired use) would be very useful. For example, many kits called/call for sanding in a root-to-tip taper, and a symmetrical airfoil or faceted cross-section, into the fins (or an asymmetrical airfoil, for many boost-glider kits' wings). A 3D cutter/chisel could hold a sheet balsa (or sheet basswood) fin or wing "blank," which could be moved along the blade (*or* the blade could move, instead) in a series of shallow "passes," to give the blank the desired, programmed shape (the blade--or the blank, in its holder--could tilt as needed to create the desired shape), and:

Such a tool would be equally useful to model aviators and model boat & ship builders, including--but by no means limited to--F/F HLG (Free-Flight Hand-Launched Glider) and F/F catapult glider enthusiasts, and it could also make wing, tail assembly, and fuselage parts for larger, built-up models (R/C sailplanes, powered planes, and vessels, C/L and U/C [Control-Line and U-Control] powered planes, etc.), so there would be a sizable market for it. For model rocketeers and model aviators, the software could contain the airfoil ordinates files for many popular symmetrical (for fins and some wings), asymmetrical (for wings), single & double wedge, and circular arc (for scale-section fins and some supersonic & hypersonic wings) fin and wing cross-sections.