Working on An Honest John

[mbauer]

Working on a little project I have. You'll soon see.

Mike

[mbauer]

Can anyone please tell me the outside diameter in inches of the C size engine mount, and the D size? Need to adjust the internal tube so that either can be fitted.

Mike

[dannymrmissile]

Can anyone please tell me the outside diameter in inches of the C size engine mount, and the D size? Need to adjust the internal tube so that either can be fitted.

Mike
Hi. Not sure which kit version you’re working on here. The BT-60 kit simply uses a standard 24Mm mount, or the OD of the BT is 1.637. Not sure of ID. Length can vary depending on using D or E engine. The others are from the BT-50 tube and 0.976 OD. ,,, or 18MM standard engine mount. Does this help ? I’ve modified Many types of engine mounts,, even using outside engine hooks to convert a Scrambler from a 3 Engine 18 MM cluster to a single D 24 Mm mount,,, ( think I still have it !). Perhaps I can be of further help. Let me know. Dan. PS, yup, here it is....pics coming.
Just for fun......
Here’s pics. I built this in the early 70s, modified it later. Used makeshift parts.

[mbauer]

Hi. Not sure which kit version you’re working on here. The BT-60 kit simply uses a standard 24Mm mount, or the OD of the BT is 1.637. Not sure of ID. Length can vary depending on using D or E engine. The others are from the BT-50 tube and 0.976 OD. ,,, or 18MM standard engine mount. Does this help ? I’ve modified Many types of engine mounts,, even using outside engine hooks to convert a Scrambler from a 3 Engine 18 MM cluster to a single D 24 Mm mount,,, ( think I still have it !). Perhaps I can be of further help. Let me know. Dan. PS, yup, here it is....pics coming.
Just for fun......
Here’s pics. I built this in the early 70s, modified it later. Used makeshift parts.

It does for the BT-60. In my old stash found some BT-50. Thank you for the information.

Getting ready to add a letter size Honest john that when built will be approx: 30" tall, based on the BT-50.


Mike

[mbauer]

This is my first attempt at converting a stomp rocket to an Estes size C engine.

I've printed one and plan to post photos as I build it.

PDF file attached for the rocket, be sure to print at 100% or full size to get it to fit properly. You can substitute a BT-50 tube for the internal cardstock tube; remember to mark for the former bulkhead locations. Use Index 110 lb [198.9 gsm] cardstock only!

Honest John is painted in 4th of July colors. Didn't think of this until late in the day on the 4th.

Just save the PDF to your computer. Rocket when built will be 30" tall. Will need to use 3/32" basswood for the stabilizer fin pattern provided.

PDF conversion from AutoCAD to PDF changed color of Red And Blue, they should be darker...I'll work on that.

Mike

[dannymrmissile]

You’re welcome. Contact me any time. Glad to help. Dan.

[mbauer]

Hello Everyone,

I took several photos while building the Honest John with the 4th of July colors. The PDF drawing posted above has a few graphic errors that will be fixed, once this series of build photos have been posted.

Main issue is the 7-red stripes on the fuselage. At the glue seam two are combined into one. This makes them look wider, tried a couple of different options, but ended up too many white stripes. Decide I will create a gold colored border to split them.

Part fit is good so not going to need any changes for the pieces.

Below is the first construction photo. Has a few of the tools, parts after cutting them out, and the balsa fins. The original PDF says to use 3/32" Balsa, this has been changed to 1/16" for the construction.

The outer covering of cardstock gives the combination lots of strength. So, 1/16" thick will work!

Please note in the photo on the far left there is a view of my empressor that is used to score fold lines, it has a small ball on the end. You can use the back edge of a kitchen butter knife, or go to an Art Supply store and buy an Art Embosser with a wood handle and balls at the ends. Fiskars has something similar you can sometimes find at Walmart

This rocket is 39" tall instead of the 30" in the PDF above, it needs printed on 11x17 size cardstock. I shrank it down to the 30" so it would fit the letter size 8.5"x11" cardstock that is available at the big box stores.

[mbauer]

Photo shows the nosecone collar Part D, that slides onto the Rocket body/fuselage. It is slip on so that when the parachute charge does its thing, the nosecone hopefully will part and the parachute deploys....

Viola; the empressor made this photo as well. Note uncut nosecone part in upper left of photo. All 50-stars are on the nosecone/warhead section.

I usually cut all of the slants on one side for each tab, then a rotation of the nosecone to cut the other side, all the little scrap pieces then can be cleaned up at one time by sweeping into a trash can.

[mbauer]

Working on the Inner Support Tube. This is the tube you can use a B-50 tube for, just make sure to mark for the bulkhead locations. It is in two pieces that need glued together before rolling. You can see the black lines where the bulkheads go, the circle and writing will be covered up, they are notes to myself when designing to verify correct size.

Notes:
1) Note there are Three knives in this photo. Old blue Fiskars is comfortable, best hobby knife I've ever used. My son borrowed it for his leather working hobby. After not being able to find it, asked him about it. He confessed, but needed it for a project.

I went shopping for a new one. All I could find in the local big box store was the orange and white one with the funky fold and bend tail, that holds the blade in the front. I stabbed myself three times trying to change the blade. Piece of crap, it doesn't hold my preferred brand of blades, which are not X-acto brand but still size 11 with a different point.

Then I found some orange Fiskars on eBay, I bought three, one for my son and two back-ups for me. They are being replaced by the dangerous one mentioned. My son returned my old favorite blue, which has been in use for several years, seems like an old buddy from all the projects we've completed. Glad he returned it in time for this one.

The Fiskars rotary cutter is great for the long cuts needed for rockets, best cutter to use, plus the knife blades stay sharper longer not having to cut the length. Notice that I have a plastic quilting ruler, it is 1/8" thick helps with guiding knives and the rotary cutter, keeping them vertical.

On the bottom side used 3M 77 spray glue to mount a non-slip kitchen drawer mat. Helps to hold when doing the long cuts, ruler stays put with a little pressure. You can see the tan pattern of the mat through the clear plastic.

Glue applicator of choice is the Monoject 412 I bought on eBay. Easy to apply the exact amount of glue needed in long runs for the fuselage construction. Dentists use this to irrigate debris when cleaning teeth.

Two photos now: Before gluing/After glued

[mbauer]

Photo of the two piece fuselage shell is glued.

I start on the upper corner where they meet, align and then make sure the top piece aligns with the glue tab line, with all of these stripes, big help on keeping alignment correct.

Press hard and keep running fingers/hand back and forth along the whole joint/connection to get glue forced into cardstock fibers. Not good if this falls apart during flight! Lots of pressure better than not enough!!!

Same for al gluing connections, press hard to force glue into cardstock fibers and then hold, a little glue is better than lots, you will be holding forever with too much glue: added danger of too much glue is is cardstock warping. A little glue goes a long way, and is quicker to build removing lots of holding together time.

[mbauer]

Just weighed the completed Honest John: Weighs 3.1 ounces.

Will a C-sized engine lift this much weight?

The shorter 30" version will be considerably less.

AS a BAR from the 1960's Estes rocket in the back of Boys Life Magazine, and then again in the 1980's when my kids were growing up, not sure about rocket engine sizes to lift this.

Been doing Stomp Rockets for quite a few years now, this is my first try at powering with the Estes style engines.

Need help making sure that these are designed and matched to the correct size engines...

[dannymrmissile]

This is my first attempt at converting a stomp rocket to an Estes size C engine.

I've printed one and plan to post photos as I build it.

PDF file attached for the rocket, be sure to print at 100% or full size to get it to fit properly. You can substitute a BT-50 tube for the internal cardstock tube; remember to mark for the former bulkhead locations. Use Index 110 lb [198.9 gsm] cardstock only!

Honest John is painted in 4th of July colors. Didn't think of this until late in the day on the 4th.

Just save the PDF to your computer. Rocket when built will be 30" tall. Will need to use 3/32" basswood for the stabilizer fin pattern provided.

PDF conversion from AutoCAD to PDF changed color of Red And Blue, they should be darker...I'll work on that.

Mike

I always skin my fins. I used a single balsa fin, instead of 3 as per Estes design on BT-60 HJ. Worked and looks great.

[dannymrmissile]

Just weighed the completed Honest John: Weighs 3.1 ounces.

Will a C-sized engine lift this much weight?

The shorter 30" version will be considerably less.

AS a BAR from the 1960's Estes rocket in the back of Boys Life Magazine, and then again in the 1980's when my kids were growing up, not sure about rocket engine sizes to lift this.

Been doing Stomp Rockets for quite a few years now, this is my first try at powering with the Estes style engines.

Need help making sure that these are designed and matched to the correct size engines...

Look to the 60s-70 Estes catalog engine chart ( yellow pages) to check engine lift off weight. But yes a 3 second delay will work fine ( C6-3).....

[mbauer]

The bulkheads are double laminated. Notice I cut these out as one piece. Down the center is dashed fold line, great chance to use the empressor/embosser/knife back to get an accurate fold.

Once again I used the 3M Super 77 spray glue on the shortest piece and then folded them before cutting them out. Saves time and is more accurate than cutting each bulkhead as a single than trying to match glue them together.

Ok, time to change up a little. Realized I have some drawings that might help better explain how I do things, using techniques that might help others. Going to start using them.

Photos below show using 3M Super 77 to laminate, how to use the mentioned butter knife and other techniques. Last phot will be the bulkheads for this project. Adding a new laminating view for the last photo, technique if using school glue to laminate is all..

I use different cutting tools all the time as follows:
1) Inside circle cuts = hobby knife
2) Outside cuts or Arcs = Scissors
3) Long Straight cuts = Ruler and rotary cutter
4) Any hard to get at cuts = Hobby Knife

[mbauer]

Look to the 60s-70 Estes catalog engine chart ( yellow pages) to check engine lift off weight. But yes a 3 second delay will work fine ( C6-3).....

Once again Thank You for your Help with my questions.

Awesome!

Mike

[mbauer]

This post is how I glue the Rocket Body shell and inner support tube:

Once again using my Instruction Sheet detail drawing to show my method. By using the double sided tape as rings around the PVC pipe or wood dowel (Square dowel works best because you can draw a center line to line edge of cardstock too, ensuring a straight glue job, not twisted.

The double sided tape rings need to wrap all the way around or you will pull them up when removing the tube after gluing. once I have the initial connection glued, I pop the shell off of the double tape and then immediately use a smooth piece of PVC tubing to finalize the gluing by pressing extremely hard on the glue seam.

Doing it this way allows for easier removal from the tape.

When removing from the tape you will need to roll the cardstock tube back and forth with a lifting action to pop it loose without tearing the cardstock, yes, I 've had them de-laminate if left on the tape for too long...

In the last photo, the shell has been removed from a length of 3/8" square wood dowel with the tape rings. It is now photo'd after applying the extreme pressure to seal the connection. Used a chair arm and my hobby desk. The hobby desk was made for me by my son when he was about 10-years old from a kit. He is 37-now. He stained it and actually put the legs on backwards.

Once he gave it to me, we fixed a couple of things, but what a present! Almost tempte to change the legs back to the original way he made it. A little un-balanced; still works though.

[dannymrmissile]

This post is how I glue the Rocket Body shell and inner support tube:

Once again using my Instruction Sheet detail drawing to show my method. By using the double sided tape as rings around the PVC pipe or wood dowel (Square dowel works best because you can draw a center line to line edge of cardstock too, ensuring a straight glue job, not twisted.

The double sided tape rings need to wrap all the way around or you will pull them up when removing the tube after gluing. once I have the initial connection glued, I pop the shell off of the double tape and then immediately use a smooth piece of PVC tubing to finalize the gluing by pressing extremely hard on the glue seam.

Doing it this way allows for easier removal from the tape.

When removing from the tape you will need to roll the cardstock tube back and forth with a lifting action to pop it loose without tearing the cardstock, yes, I 've had them de-laminate if left on the tape for too long...

In the last photo, the shell has been removed from a length of 3/8" square wood dowel with the tape rings. It is now photo'd after applying the extreme pressure to seal the connection. Used a chair arm and my hobby desk. The hobby desk was made for me by my son when he was about 10-years old from a kit. He is 37-now. He stained it and actually put the legs on backwards.

Once he gave it to me, we fixed a couple of things, but what a present! Almost tempte to change the legs back to the original way he made it. A little un-balanced; still works though.
I totally understand your technique here. It’s great. I’m old school. When I’m able, I enjoy sanding. So, I simply cut out skins from old yellow Manila filing paper stock. Then I use carpenter’s wood glue and brush it heavily onto the fins. Add card stock. Done, except sanding the edges round. I don’t do true scale anymore, for health reasons,,, , I mean the accurate air foils. The fins are super strong, too. I have the spray,, I just enjoy my old way....

[mbauer]

Here are two photos showing the process of gluing the bulkheads to the inner support tube. You can use the standard size BT-50 tube instead of the cardstock if you prefer.

The bottom bulkheads will help support the stabilizer fins.

Actually made an incredibly strong joint when the fins were glued into place!

[dannymrmissile]

Here are two photos showing the process of gluing the bulkheads to the inner support tube. You can use the standard size BT-50 tube instead of the cardstock if you prefer.

The bottom bulkheads will help support the stabilizer fins.

Actually made an incredibly strong joint when the fins were glued into place!
Yup,,, I do that too....

[mbauer]

Just about jumped ahead, by posting the next post.

For this one I cut the openings for the stabilizer fins. Once I cut the length, the next step was to very carefully cut the bulkheads to let the balsa glue tabs on the fins fit inside.

This step is best done with a brand new blade in the knife, or stropping the blade on some leather or 1000 grit sand paper to sharpen.

Note:

All fins and locations have been marked to verify correct placement of fins. Will add these markings to the updated rocket PDF when this is done.

[mbauer]

This step shows trimming the balsa glue tab to fit the cuts in the bulkheads. This is not required if you cut the bulkheads deeper than I did.

Cut the bulkhead in the previous step to at least 1/4" deep to allow insertion of the balsa glue tab. The cardstock glue tab will be glued to the top of the Rocket Shell as shown a little later.

Two photos show the trimming operation. Note on the last photo you can see where the trimmed piece is indented, this is where the bulked hit it.

[mbauer]

Here is a photo of a successful Dry Fit Test of the balsa fin.

[mbauer]

In this step I will glue the outer covering of cardstock to the balsa inner fin.

Quick and easy. Just align the bottom balsa edge with the cardstock fold where the paper glue tabs bend 90 degrees. Balsa is smaller than the cardstock outer covering, this allows room for error and gives the leading edge a knife edge look.

[snaquin]

In this step I will glue the outer covering of cardstock to the balsa inner fin.

Quick and easy. Just align the bottom balsa edge with the cardstock fold where the paper glue tabs bend 90 degrees. Balsa is smaller than the cardstock outer covering, this allows room for error and gives the leading edge a knife edge look.These fins look great. Looks like it will be a very strong attachment to the airframe as well.

[mbauer]

This step will speed construction while fins are drying. They are stacked on top of each other, with 18lbs of lead tire weights on top while the glue dries on them...

I use the tire weights for weight and balancing of my cardstock rubber band powered airplanes. Have several models designed that use some serious rubber band to fly.

One model, a Lockheed P-38 Lightning has over 20ft of 1/4" super tan rubber inside with 12" props powering a 5ft wingspan. It flat gets with it on take-off! Don't let the prop spin, when winding, it hurts and will cut just like an .049 cox engine will. These are recent designs. Nobody else has cardstock paper airplanes with rubber band power.

Problem is supply of Super Tan in 1/4". FAI is out until the end of this month. Once purchased, I will be selling kits on eBay.

Back to the next step: Gluing all of the cones to get ready for combination gluing to make the Nose Cone. Each piece will be glued while the fins dry. After gluing the fins into place on the shell, the cones will be ready for the combined gluing as they will be dry as well.

Technique photo, cones pre-rolled for gluing, gluing cone using the "gluing Tube" method on the PVC pipe. Final photo has a few parts and pieces ready for final steps.

Adding photo of weights stacked up on fins-didn't realize it was available. Far left of photo.

[mbauer]

Forgot to take photos while gluing the stabilizer fins to the body.

I do have this photo showing the end result.

Be sure to apply glue to the bottom edge of the balsa wood glue tab, and the sides. Apply glue to the under side of the cardstock glue tabs as well. I use two really thin lines of glue on the cardstock. One close to the balsa wood, and the other along the out side edge. this provides a solid glue to the rocket shell. Make sure the balsa goes all the way inside to make contact with the bulkheads!

[mbauer]

This step I show how to connect the cones to each other to complete the warhead section.

1st step is to put glue on two of the tabs nearest to the glue seam. Align all glue seams to form a straight line.

Reach inside with a finger to pinch the glue into the paper with another finger on the outside pressing down real hard. Must hold this step until the glue tacks solid. Very important to hold until set. This joint will come apart during the next step, if you don't hold long enough. If it comes loose, this will cause severe frustration, trying to get it re-glued over the old glue.

The glue will not get into the cardstock fibers, but glue to the ld glue, this doesn't make a very solid/strong connection.

Please hold/pinch this beginning glue joint longer than you want to!

No photo of the pinching operation, only two hands and both are needed for the pinching.

[mbauer]

On all of the cones and fuselage shell I placed small alignment Tick Marks.

Once the 1st glue connection has set, you will need to go to the opposite side and align these tick marks. The bottom edge of the top cone must align with the fold line of the glue tabs.

NOTE:

Oh, yes, you will need to score the bottom line of all the glue tabs on the cones, forgot to mention this. Very important for cone gluing. Must be done before pre-rolling when the cones are still flat.

Even better I do all of my scoring fold lines before any cutting is done. That way I don't forget to score them. By doing them on the full sheet before cutting, allows extra paper to stop small pieces form moving when applying the pressure to crease the cardstock. This little note should have been one of the very first steps mentioned, sorry, my bad...

Took 9-photos of the tick marks, all are fuzzy, this is the best one. I circled the tick mark as best I could, not a very good photo though. 9-photos and could not get one to focus. Next time will use a tripod to see if that helps, macro didn't!

Black circle has the two tick marks aligned.

There are 4-tick marks on each cone where they need to connect to other pieces, they help ensure a straight connection of the cones instead of being lop sided.

[mbauer]

Always glue at least two of the tabs located at each Tick Mark. As you get more comfortable gluing them you can glue up to 4-tabs before aligning the marks. Takes a little more skill, but speeds up construction.

Now the Tick Marks first glued should be strong enough to do this step:

Notice how far the lower cone piece is pushed in? Now is the time to glue all of the tabs before pinching them as in the other steps.

Note:

The little "bumps" on the glue tabs where they meet the lower shell, they like to stop the upper cone from sliding all the way to the lower alignment fold line .

Using you fingers to reach inside and press them to the upper shell , quick before connection sets align the upper cone bottom edge to the fold line at the base of the tabs.

Pinching real hard and hold while the glue tacks each tab, by rotating the assembly to make sure each tab is glued.

Continue until all tabs are glued.

Once these tabs are set/tacked, go the opposite side and repeat process. This helps keep the cones in straight alignment. Lop sided looks like a cartoon, so make sure bottom edge of top cone is aligned to the fold lines, no white cardstock of tabs should be showing!

[mbauer]

A couple of photos of glued connection for the top two cones. The next step is twice as hard, hoping you did well on the first set of cones!

[mbauer]

This step is incredibly difficult. It is the hardest step in the construction of this rocket.

Why is joining the next cone to the ones already glued the hardest step?

Because you can't get your hand inside to pinch the glue tabs. Fingers are not long enough.

NOTE:
Important to use a 1/2" or bigger diameter of wood dowel. 5/8" is better, 3/4" works awesome. Insert the wood dowel inside the bottom cone, make sure it pokes at least 1/2" past the glue tabs, 3/4" will work, but not too much longer than that.

Now mark all the way around the wood dowel where the bottom edge of the cone ends. This step helps when using the wood dowel to pinch the tabs when gluing.

Too far and you will crush the cones as you glue, the mark helps you know where the end of the dowel is, making it easier to pinch the glue connections.

Ok, time to jump in with both feet.

1st step is to glue the seam, aligning it with the previous glue seams, keeping the cone connections straight. Once the glue is applied to the two tabs at the seam, time to play twister with the dowel.

The dowel I use is 3-feet long, a 4-footer will work but is awkward:

I place the tail end of the dowel under my left thigh, and over the right thigh. Now I can hold the dowel tight without it moving by applying downward pressure with my left leg. Might be possible to clamp dowel to a table top, but that will cause issues when trying to pinch the glue joint.

The mark on the dowel is on the top end of the dowel. Now slide the bottom cone onto the dowel to your mark. The two glue tabs with glue on them are flat against the dowel, now using your hands/fingers align the glue seam and pinch the two cones together. Use the dowel for a bucking bar, similar to using your fingers in the last step.

Once the seam connection is tacked, make sure it is tacked GOOD.

Rotate the cones to the opposite side and once again apply glue to the two tabs under the tick marks. Now you find out why we marked the dowel. You should be able to apply a pressure pinch to this connection just like the first one.

Once this connection tacks, do the rest of the tick marks before gluing all of the other tabs.

This step is hard work, but when done should be just as strong as the first set of cone connections.

You will find that the end of the dowel is the secret for this step, to far up inside the top cones, you have a difficult time of pinching, to low no way to pinch because dowel isn't there to help.

Hoping you make it through this step ok. Might be possible to speed things up using super glue, but dowel will stick if too much is used. A wet rag helps keep the dowel glue free and working correctly, be careful to NOT get the cardstock wet. This will cause major issues with this connection!

[mbauer]

This step is easy compared to the other cone connections.

Same procedure as the cones, except super easy to reach inside to pinch. Once glue seam is straight aligned with the Nosecone line, you can do the tick marks like before. Once all tabs have been glued, you will need to glue around the top inside of the collar to add the plug. The plug stops the parachute ejection charge from going inside the nosecone assembly.

photo shows correct location of plug inside Nosecone assembly. Notice I used a rubber abnd outside to create pressure so that the plug stays put. Thinking it would be great to use two rubber bands is not a good idea.

Notice how the collar/nosecone connection the final photos in a future post was damaged? Two rubber bands did not work so well, one would have been perfect.

1st photo has single rubber band doubled up, second photo has two rubber bands doubled up. Bad idea! Crushed the connection...

[mbauer]

Photo shows inside of fuselage shell, parachute cavity. Notice the glue tabs have been cut with a straight line instead of angled like on the cones?

You will need to glue them together with a small drop of glue and then bending inward at about a 45degree angle. Light washed out the photo showing the glue operation, but I think you can see the process. Start at the glue seam and rotate and bend/glue each tab on top of the previous tab. Only rotate rocket in one direction. Once the are glued except for the last one, it will be glued to the top of both tabs to the right/left.

Rocket is now done except for installing the engine mount and parachutes shock cord and launch lugs.

[mbauer]

This rocket is 39" tall.

Photos had to be rotated to get full rocket view.

Here they are:

Thank you for your interest in this build process, hopefully it will help with cardstock rocket construction when using flat sheets of cardstock for your projects/designs!

Have some graphic changes to help the rocket look a little better, a couple of errors to fix, then I will post an updated rocket once these are done.

Best regards,
Mike Bauer

[mbauer]

These fins look great. Looks like it will be a very strong attachment to the airframe as well.

Yes, they appear to be quite strong! Need to do a test flight to be sure though!

Shell doesn't oil can when applying pressure. Will wait until tomorrow once the glue dries to get serious with the pressure though.

Mike

[mbauer]

Hi,

Just finished updating the PDF file you can save to your computer.

The PDF file has fixed some graphic errors, color change to darker blue and red, added some gold and a few other issues.

This should be complete and OKay to print and build.

All dash lines are fold lines, the dotted lines are cut lines.

Any issues building please contact me and I can change issue to work.

Be sure to print at 100% scale/ DO NOT Print "Fit to Page" . Use INDEX 110LB cardstock only, all parts will fit, if you use something else good chance you'll run into issues!

Hope you like and enjoy it.

4th of July Color scheme.

Ok to post photos if you build and launch...

Best regards,
Mike Bauer

[Ltvscout]

Just finished updating the PDF file you can save to your computer.
Thanks for the PDF and the great build article, Mike!

[Blushingmule]

Very nice!

Bob

[mbauer]

Hi Scott/Bob,

You're welcome.

Been planning a build thread for quite some time.

Thank you for the comments!

Best regards,
Mike Bauer

[Ez2cDave]

Can anyone please tell me the outside diameter in inches of the C size engine mount, and the D size? Need to adjust the internal tube so that either can be fitted.

Mike

The "C" sized mount tube is BT-20 . . . It is .736", outside diameter.

The "D" sized mount tube is BT-50 . . . It is .976", outside diameter.

Dave F.

[Ez2cDave]

Your model reminds me of this HoJo display . . . I nicknamed it "Bomb Pop" - LOL !

Dave F.

[ghrocketman]

I consider this "Bomb Pop" decor and any other "non operational" paint scheme on Missiles/Rockets an abomination. Transformed a historically significant piece of military history into a mere YARD-ORNAMENT.
Yecchhhhh.

[mbauer]

I consider this "Bomb Pop" decor and any other "non operational" paint scheme on Missiles/Rockets an abomination. Transformed a historically significant piece of military history into a mere YARD-ORNAMENT.
Yecchhhhh.

Some photos when I visited my son when he was at Joint Base McCord/Lewis. Visited June 2009, we went to the museum there. Here are some photos that I took during the visit.

Was stationed there myself back in the 1970's.

Mike

[Ez2cDave]

Nice shots . . .

I attempted to bring out a little more "shadow detail" on them.

Dave F.

[Earl]

I am reminded once again just how really thin the HJ fins are. It is hard to get the truly scale thickness when working with balsa or even basswood. Built up is best but even then they can be a bit thick.

Earl

[ghrocketman]

Great looking pics of operationally finished properly Honest John and Nike Ajax.
A 1:1 scale HPR Nike Ajax would be a fun project.
A few years ago somebody did a 1/2 scale Mercury Redstone.
It was huge.

[tbzep]

GH is gettin a sport scale HoJo painted in Bomb Pop livery for Christmas!

[Ez2cDave]

GH is gettin a sport scale HoJo painted in Bomb Pop livery for Christmas!

A few more "Merry Missiles" . . .

Dave F.

[ghrocketman]

And it will be promptly "returned to sender".

[Ez2cDave]

And it will be promptly "returned to sender".

Just imagine what would have happened if NASA had allowed a crew of Hippies to paint the Saturn-V with Peace Symbols, "Love Flowers" and Psychedelic patterns . . . LOL !

Dave F.

[tbzep]

A few more "Merry Missiles" . . .

Dave F.
I've seen test round photos of the 3rd image. That 4th one I've always wondered if it was really painted red, or one of those "colorized" photos where the computer screwed the pooch.

[jdbectec]

That's an actual test round. It's painted fluorescent red. The color is slightly altered due to aging of the vintage film.

[mbauer]

Not sure what happened, it looks like the PDF conversion made the green lighter than it is supposed to look.

PDF Below has the HJ in proper colors.

Mike