Tools of the trade

[Thruster]

What are some of the tools needed to make scratch building easier, I have the Estes tube marking tool but what are some of the other tools and tricks?

[stefanj]

A razor saw (Xacto or equivalent)

A square (like a ruler that goes around a corner :-)

Another lighter duty steel ruler.

Lots of rubber bands and/or cheap plastic clamps.

[CPMcGraw]

What are some of the tools needed to make scratch building easier, I have the Estes tube marking tool but what are some of the other tools and tricks?

1. A 12" steel ruler for making straight cuts with your X-Acto knife...
2. More than one X-Acto #1 knife with a fresh blade...
3. A spare pack (or two) of fresh #11 blades for your X-Acto knife...
4. 3 oz paper bathroom cups...
5. Assorted artists brushes...
6. A "T-Bar" or other aluminum sanding block...
7. An assortment of sanding papers, with a larger portion of 220-grit...
8. A can of 3M-77 spray contact adhesive...
9. A Zona saw, or a #3 X-Acto handle with fine-tooth cutting blade...
10. A set of disposable kitchen cutting mats...
11. Various mechanical pencils and fine-tip pens...
12. A pair of tri-edge rules, one Archetectural, one Engineering...
13. Numerous holding stands; wooden base with a dowel and an expended motor casing on one end, or some empty CD/DVD spindles...
14. A pack of sanding twigs -- foam strips 3/32" and 1/8" wide, 6" long, with sandpaper glued to two sides...
15. Various widths of masking tape...
16. A computer with a good graphics program (Corel Draw, Photoshop, The GIMP) to create patterns with...
17. Stack of #110 cardstock, to create templates and patterns made with your computer...
18. A decent color printer...
19. T-Pins...
20. Wax paper...
21. Various viscoscities of CA glue...
22. Small bottles of yellow glue...
23. A large bottle of yellow glue to refill the small bottles from...
24. A notebook to sketch ideas in...
25. A scrap bin, to catch bits and pieces of discarded balsa and tubing in...
26. An office "cubbyhole" shelf unit for holding your cardstock, decal sheets, etc...
27. Tack rags...
28. A good air compressor, 5-6 HP, oilless, with a good regulator...
29. Several inexpensive airbrushes for colors, and at least one or two larger detail guns for spraying primer and base whites. Don't use any gun with multiple types of paint; only use one type of paint with any one gun or airbrush to avoid gumming internally.
30. Two or three dozen fresh 1 oz jars to fit the airbrushes, and several jar adapters...
31. Paint thinners by the gallon. It's much cheaper...
32. Wooden clothespin clamps, with the wood pieces turned upside down...
33. Rubber band clamps...
34. Small one-hand "pressure/tension" bar clamps... (Perfect for us, No?)
35. Patience...

[Thruster]

Thanks, those are the same tools I use for the RC planes, the tube marking tool works great and is easy to use.

[Thruster]

1. A 12" steel ruler for making straight cuts with your X-Acto knife...
2. More than one X-Acto #1 knife with a fresh blade...
3. A spare pack (or two) of fresh #11 blades for your X-Acto knife...
4. 3 oz paper bathroom cups...
5. Assorted artists brushes...
6. A "T-Bar" or other aluminum sanding block...
7. An assortment of sanding papers, with a larger portion of 220-grit...
8. A can of 3M-77 spray contact adhesive...
9. A Zona saw, or a #3 X-Acto handle with fine-tooth cutting blade...
10. A set of disposable kitchen cutting mats...
11. Various mechanical pencils and fine-tip pens...
12. A pair of tri-edge rules, one Archetectural, one Engineering...
13. Numerous holding stands; wooden base with a dowel and an expended motor casing on one end, or some empty CD/DVD spindles...
14. A pack of sanding twigs -- foam strips 3/32" and 1/8" wide, 6" long, with sandpaper glued to two sides...
15. Various widths of masking tape...
16. A computer with a good graphics program (Corel Draw, Photoshop, The GIMP) to create patterns with...
17. Stack of #110 cardstock, to create templates and patterns made with your computer...
18. A decent color printer...
19. T-Pins...
20. Wax paper...
21. Various viscoscities of CA glue...
22. Small bottles of yellow glue...
23. A large bottle of yellow glue to refill the small bottles from...
24. A notebook to sketch ideas in...
25. A scrap bin, to catch bits and pieces of discarded balsa and tubing in...
26. An office "cubbyhole" shelf unit for holding your cardstock, decal sheets, etc...
27. Tack rags...
28. A good air compressor, 5-6 HP, oilless, with a good regulator...
29. Several inexpensive airbrushes for colors, and at least one or two larger detail guns for spraying primer and base whites. Don't use any gun with multiple types of paint; only use one type of paint with any one gun or airbrush to avoid gumming internally.
30. Two or three dozen fresh 1 oz jars to fit the airbrushes, and several jar adapters...
31. Paint thinners by the gallon. It's much cheaper...
32. Patience...
33 An understanding wife. :D

[Tau Zero]

33 An understanding wife. :DActually, you may want to scoot that one all the back up to #1. ;) :D


From somebody who knows,

[tbzep]

Thanks, those are the same tools I use for the RC planes, the tube marking tool works great and is easy to use.

There's a lot of R/C stuff that comes in handy building rockets. I did without a lot of those things until I first started doing R/C.

BTW, there's another handy little item that I haven't noticed (I only skimmed the above lists). I recently got a hobby vice and wish I had bought one years ago. I only have one problem with it....my son always has something clamped in it. :mad:

Hey, where'd my pic go? I'll try linking from Hobbico instead of Tower.

http://www.hobbico.com/tools/hcar0680-main.jpg

[Ltvscout]

This is a good thread. Should I make it a sticky?

[ghrocketman]

Item #9 of the list of items Craig put together above needs to be edited.
You need a #5 or #6 X-Acto handle for a razor saw, NOT a #3 handle....a #3 X-Acto is a gold version of the #1 with a screw-on pen-clip cap, which definitely will not accept a razor saw.
I'm not positively sure, but I don't think X-Acto even catalogues the #3 anymore but the #6 and #5 are still around.

[DaveR]

2. More than one X-Acto #1 knife with a fresh blade...
3. A spare pack (or two) of fresh #11 blades for your X-Acto knife...

Not a bad idea to have a small first aid kit or at least a few Band-aids handy. ;)

Here's a couple of very handy PC tools for making marking guides, centering rings, etc.
http://www.rocketreviews.com/tool_template_widget.shtml
http://www.rocketreviews.com/freeware_rocket_suite.zip

[CPMcGraw]

This is a good thread. Should I make it a sticky?

Good idea, Scott. This is something all model builders might appreciate, and we can add to it as the need arises.

[CPMcGraw]

Item #9 of the list of items Craig put together above needs to be edited.
You need a #5 or #6 X-Acto handle for a razor saw, NOT a #3 handle....a #3 X-Acto is a gold version of the #1 with a screw-on pen-clip cap, which definitely will not accept a razor saw.
I'm not positively sure, but I don't think X-Acto even catalogues the #3 anymore but the #6 and #5 are still around.

Thanks for the heads-up, GH. Mine is certainly not gold, though they sometimes get priced like they were...

I have a couple of large-size handles for saw blades. One is a solid metal item, which may not even be from X-Acto, and the other has a red plastic body, which may be a true X-Acto. I keep a stiff-backed saw in that one, just for cutting larger balsa sheets and blocks.

[CPMcGraw]

Not a bad idea to have a small first aid kit or at least a few Band-aids handy. ;)

Now you tell me, after several attempts to slice my thumb down the middle over the years...

I just thought you were supposed to scream and holler real loud, running around the house until the bleeding stopped on its own... :o

[MKP]

Naw, just use a piece of soft balsa to absorb the blood. It's pretty absorbent.

I thought I'd mention 3-M sanding sponges, I find they make life a little easier.

[ghrocketman]

The solid metal X-Acto that holds a Razor-saw is their #6 handle, the red plastic one is the #5 handle.
I have several of each, but have always liked the solid aluminum #6 much more than the cheesy plastic #5.

[tbzep]

Band-aids? We don't need no steenking band-aids! Medium CA works much better!


P.S. Don't use fast (thin) CA cause it gets really hot on your skin, especially with larger cuts. Don't ask me how I know. :eek:

[ghrocketman]

Actually it is a little known fact that original thin CA glue ( I think it was known as Eastman 527) was developed for instant needle-free fast field suturing during the Vietnam War.
It is commonly still used in Veterinary medicine now, but not as common in human surgery any longer.

You actually want to use the thin CA for this purpose instead of medium as it give the wound a good antiseptic "sear" with the heat in addition to closing the wound.

[jadebox]

Actually it is a little known fact that original thin CA glue ( I think it was known as Eastman 527) was developed for instant needle-free fast field suturing during the Vietnam War.
http://www.straightdope.com/mailbag/msuperglue.html


MY opinion WILL be accepted by all as FACTUAL information; questioning is NOT allowed; Dissent is unacceptable!
Ooops.

-- Roger

[tbzep]

Actually it is a little known fact that original thin CA glue ( I think it was known as Eastman 527) was developed for instant needle-free fast field suturing during the Vietnam War.
It is commonly still used in Veterinary medicine now, but not as common in human surgery any longer.

You actually want to use the thin CA for this purpose instead of medium as it give the wound a good antiseptic "sear" with the heat in addition to closing the wound.

You might want it to sear yours, but I'm not to fond of my skin being seared. ;) I'll stick with medium if I have it on hand and just hold the cut closed a few extra seconds. As far as antiseptics go, I'll just rub a little dirt in it before gluing it shut. :D

[ghrocketman]

My "sear" comment was made in a warped attempt at humor. :rolleyes:

C'mon now, haven't you ever heard of medical cauterization ?? :p

I actually have used the stuff to close wounds to fingers from R/C aircraft propellers.
Nothing like a good splash of 40% Nitromethane model engine fuel in a wound, then sealing it off with some good ol' thin CA.....good times man, good times ! ;)

[barone]

My "sear" comment was made in a warped attempt at humor. :rolleyes:

C'mon now, haven't you ever heard of medical cauterization ?? :p

I actually have used the stuff to close wounds to fingers from R/C aircraft propellers.
Nothing like a good splash of 40% Nitromethane model engine fuel in a wound, then sealing it off with some good ol' thin CA.....good times man, good times ! ;)
I think they actually had an over the counter product called "Liquid Bandaid".......super glue. ;)

[tbzep]

My "sear" comment was made in a warped attempt at humor. :rolleyes:

C'mon now, haven't you ever heard of medical cauterization ?? :p

I actually have used the stuff to close wounds to fingers from R/C aircraft propellers.
Nothing like a good splash of 40% Nitromethane model engine fuel in a wound, then sealing it off with some good ol' thin CA.....good times man, good times ! ;)

I figured it was, but some folks just love to watch the steam coming off a fresh cut when you squirt a little CA o it! :eek:

You must use APC props. Those things slice and dice! I've always used wooden Zingers so the prop would break if I nosed it over or stuck a hand in. :cool: A little performance is lost, but the chance of breaking the plane and the skin are lowered a little...and I don't have to waste any CA. :p

[Ltvscout]

I think they actually had an over the counter product called "Liquid Bandaid".......super glue. ;)
Still do. We have some in the medicine cabinet.

Since this is a sticky I think I'm going to ask Eagle3 to pull this OT stuff out of this post and put it into FreeForAll as its own thread. Buzz, caould you do that for me when you have time?

[ghrocketman]

I have ALWAYS used APC props on all my R/C planes; pattern, pylon, and sport as I'm never willing to give up ANY performance. They are MUCH stronger than wood as well....a minor touch to our grass field with an APC equals a grass/dirt mark on the prop, with a zinger it is a busted prop.

I DESPISE wood props for that reason.

[Mark II]

1. A 12" steel ruler for making straight cuts with your X-Acto knife...
2. More than one X-Acto #1 knife with a fresh blade...
3. A spare pack (or two) of fresh #11 blades for your X-Acto knife...
4. 3 oz paper bathroom cups...
5. Assorted artists brushes...
...
35. Patience...
I would also add some aluminum angles of various sizes (for drawing fin and launch lug lines). For micromaxx-sized projects, I use small brass angles.

Mark K.

[Mark II]

1. A 12" steel ruler for making straight cuts with your X-Acto knife...
2. More than one X-Acto #1 knife with a fresh blade...
3. A spare pack (or two) of fresh #11 blades for your X-Acto knife...
...
It would also be a good idea to have a #2 Xacto knife (like the #1, but bigger and with a thicker handle) and a pack of #24 blades (identical to the #11 blades, but larger and stronger). I use mine all the time to cut balsa or basswood that is too thick for a #11 blade, but too thin for a razor saw. I also use it to cut thin (up to 1/16") aircraft plywood.

Also, a self-healing cutting mat, and a clear plastic mat. The latter is helpful to protect your work surfaces when you are gluing. (Especially for your self-healing cutting mat - you really, really do not want to get glue on that. Repeatedly replacing cutting mats gets pretty expensive.)

In addition:

- a box of craft sticks, a box of round toothpicks, and at least one dowel of every diameter that you can find. The craft sticks and toothpicks are indispensible for applying glue. The dowels have a gazillion uses, as you will find out.

- a box of nitrile gloves (usually colored blue or purple). These are much better than latex for protecting your hands from harsh chemicals and epoxy glue. And a pack of cheap white cotton gloves, for keeping fingerprints off of your newly painted models - after the paint has fully cured, of course! You can get both types of gloves at an auto parts store.

- a quart of acetone, and a bottle or three of isopropyl alcohol. The acetone is for cleaning up CA, and the alcohol dissolves and helps clean up uncured epoxy glue. It is helpful to have bulk quantities of both on hand, as you will eventually find out. (In addition to the commonly-found 71% isopropyl alcohol, Wal-Mart also sells 91% isopropyl, for the same price. Look for the bottles with the red label.)

- finally, a pack of dust masks, at least one pair of eye guards, and a good quality respirator. You will want to live long enough to become a BAR, and we want you to, as well.

Mark K.

[Mark II]

One more thing I forgot - save your spent black powder engine casings - at least a half dozen of each diameter and of each length of the 24mm Estes engines. They have almost as many uses as the dowels. ;)

Mark K.

[jadebox]

- a box of craft sticks, a box of round toothpicks, and at least one dowel of every diameter that you can find. The craft sticks and toothpicks are indispensible for applying glue. The dowels have a gazillion uses, as you will find out.

My wife brought me home a bag of wooden cuticle sticks used for doing nails. She bought them at a Sally Beauty Supply store. Always on the lookout for rocketry things (isn't she great?), she thought I could use them. They are about 1/8" in diameter with the ends flattened into spades. They are great for mixing epoxy and spreading glue. I've also used them for scraping paint to fix an edge where paint seeped under masking tape.

-- Roger

[Rustee]

One of the things I use a lot is an Xacto mitre box. It can used for it's intended purpose but also for marking tubes for fin and launch lug lines. You can even use it to align the fin when attaching it as well,sometimes I don't even bother drawing the line. Of course,there's only room to do two fins that way. It comes in handy as a weight to hold things down and as a square or straight edge since it's machined out of aluminium. It's awesome for cutting balsa because you can really get a grip on it. The bottom has grooves that are perfect for holding dowels or launch lugs, and I imagine most people already have one.

[Rustee]

Ok,don't slice your finger off with this one,but I needed a very thin,sharp blade so I broke a disposable razor apart and took out a blade,it's so thin it will get between the cut lines of a fin sheet and flexible enough so it will conform to a body tube and slice a fin or lug off flush like it wasn't even there,should it be broken or crooked. Of course,it's also razor sharp!

[Mark II]

Ok,don't slice your finger off with this one,but I needed a very thin,sharp blade so I broke a disposable razor apart and took out a blade,it's so thin it will get between the cut lines of a fin sheet and flexible enough so it will conform to a body tube and slice a fin or lug off flush like it wasn't even there,should it be broken or crooked. Of course,it's also razor sharp!
You can buy packs of single-edge razor blades at just about any hardware store (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39748).

You can also get scalpels (http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=50281) for really intricate work.

Neither of these items is essential, IMHO, at least for someone who is just starting out, and I would be reluctant to recommend them to younger builders. (This comes from painful personal experience - several experiences, in fact.) It's good to reach adulthood with all of your fingers intact. (I eventually learned that, and did manage somehow to keep all of mine.)

Once the builder has learned to exercise appropriate care (and manual dexterity, too), these tools can be real handy to have around when the right situations come up, such as in the ones that you mentioned.

I wouldn't recommend breaking apart a shaver to salvage the blade, though. You have no margin for error with that, and you are using the blade for something that it was never designed to do. Other tools are available to do the same thing, such as the previously mentioned scalpels. They at least are actually designed to be used as hand tools, and therefore possess some safety features.

Mark

[Rustee]

I would recommend doing exactly what I described,because a blade's intended purpose is for cutting,like for instances where a single-edged razor blade or scalpel won't work. So there.

[Mark II]

I would recommend doing exactly what I described,because a blade's intended purpose is for cutting,like for instances where a single-edged razor blade or scalpel won't work. So there.
That's fine. You can do whatever you want, cowboy. Don't let anything that I say, or anything that anyone else on this forum says, or common sense stop you. Neither me nor anyone else here is trying to control you. I just definitely do not recommend that anyone else do what you are doing.

Mark

[Solomoriah]

I'm with Mark II on this one. I wouldn't dismantle a disposable razor... a really sharp, very flexy blade with no handle just does not sound like a smart thing to play with.

[sandman]

Not exactly a tool but...it works.

If your neighbor, or you, are replacing any interior doors do some dumpster diving and save one.

Actually a bifold closet door works better but a plain interior door works real well.

Strip all the hardware off of it and get a pair of those cheap folding plastic sawhorses. Harbor Freight has them sometimes for $10 a pair and make a handy portable work bench.

Works great and nobody will care what you spill on it!

[tbzep]

Not exactly a tool but...it works.

If your neighbor, or you, are replacing any interior doors do some dumpster diving and save one.

Actually a bifold closet door works better but a plain interior door works real well.

Strip all the hardware off of it and get a pair of those cheap folding plastic sawhorses. Harbor Freight has them sometimes for $10 a pair and make a handy portable work bench.

Works great and nobody will care what you spill on it!

I bought a cheap plain interior door to use as a flat build table for R/C airplanes years ago. I put drop ceiling tiles on the board so I could pin down the parts with T pins. I've never needed it for rocketry, but it might come in handy for somebody on some odd rocketry project. Good one, Sandman!

[sandman]

I bought a cheap plain interior door to use as a flat build table for R/C airplanes years ago. I put drop ceiling tiles on the board so I could pin down the parts with T pins. I've never needed it for rocketry, but it might come in handy for somebody on some odd rocketry project. Good one, Sandman!

I did the same thing years ago when I was into stick and tissue free flight rubber band airplanes. Probably one of the absolute cheapest hobbies you could get into.

Instead of buying a new door, go to your local lumber yard, living in a small town makes it much easier, ask them if they have any damaged bifold closet doors.

Usually they have one or two that have been damaged in shipment, storage or by the new kid learning to drive the fork lift.

You can sometimes get them for free.

I have one mounted by it's hinges on the wall of my shop with folding legs. When it's not being used it can fold up against the wall.

Of course I don't think I ever folded it up 'cause it's always pilled up with "stuff"! :o

I believe that it's one of Murphy's Laws, "The amount of existing material will expand to fill the available space."

[tbzep]

Back in my original post on this thread, I mentioned a very handy little tool. It's a little hobby vise that I got from Tower Hobbies. My son has all but taken it over. Any time I want to use it, I have to move it from where he works on his stuff.

I ordered another one Saturday so that we will both have our own little hobby vise. It came today. Anybody that wants to see a picture, check post #7, or just click right here. (http://forums.rocketshoppe.com/showpost.php?p=30881&postcount=7)

[LeeR]

I keep at least one of every size body tube around for painting nose cones. They are typically scraps 6" long or so. Even if you are painting a cone the same color as the body tube, I find it helpful to paint them separately. Some cones need a fair amount of manipulation to fully paint, such as needing to hit them from the top down to get the tip painted. This is easier if it's off the rocket, so you aren't loading the rocket's body tube with overspray.

I also wrap a piece of paper around the tube, so the tube stays clean and does not load up with lots of paint from multiple painting sessions. And finally, I wear at least one nitrile glove, to keep the hand holding the tube free of paint. Since it gets little paint on it typically, I use the glove for numerous painting sessions. (Yep, I'm cheap ...)

To dry, I have wooden blocks with a dowel in them, much like a rocket display stand, to hold the tube upright while drying. Or, you can clamp a dowel in a workbench vise, to support the tube as the cone dries.

[ScaleNut]

some of my personel favorite tools not previously mentioned

-parchment paper, not even ca glue sticks to it . I lay a sheet on the worktable when glueing painting ect and a sheet lasts a long time.you can see drawings thru it if necesary

-glad press n seal ,great with masking off rockets for painting it really sticks but is not sticky so no taping off necessary. it can even be used as a mask when rubbed down and trimmed, I also use it to seal bottles of paint, glue, epoxy cans ..ect ( also reusable)

-bamboo skewers, for mixing ,glueing

- nail sanding sticks from Sally's beauty supply (all different grits) I use these alot !

-estes marking guide, I use it most of the time to draw perfect circles around nosecones.

-lazy susan- for painting

-3m adhesive spray , for paper laminating balsa sheet

-swingarm lamp with magnifier,couldn't live without it(my eyesight aint so great anymore)

-plastic squeeze bottles, I premix fill n finish and always have a bottle ready, very quick way to go about filling without having to mix something up or worry about it drying out.
I also keep larger bottle glues in the smaller squeeze bottles , including west system epoxy

-ambroid pro weld- for plastic joining

-rocket building cradle- a few different sizes ( for the larger rockets)

- decal film, decal solvent, and decal set .

-110# cardstock- worth mentioning again (many uses)

-plastic totes- shoebox size , for keeping all those unfinished projects in.

-little plastic springclamps, I use these buggers alot !

-craft level artist brushes, many uses, also essential for lifting , turning, unfolding and pushing decals into position.

-balsa usa gold ca-thin and thick (they don't make medium) after trying it,I'll never use annother brand.

-aluminum angle, a few sizes and length

-empty engine/motor casings- marking ,setting motor blocks, hooks and for making model stands.

-scissors,good ones strictly for paper and cardstock.

-room , to put all this stuff.....

[fashow69]

wow looks like i have alot of shopping to do! haha

[Jeff Walther]

Now you tell me, after several attempts to slice my thumb down the middle over the years...

I just thought you were supposed to scream and holler real loud, running around the house until the bleeding stopped on its own... :o

Do we all those scars on our thumbs? Hmmm. It's like a rocketeer tatoo. I have two on the first joint of my left thumb and one between my thumb and forefinger, also left hand. The knife was in my right hand. After that, I learned to trim off broken fins directing the force of the Xacto blade away from hand rather than toward it.

[sandman]

Do we all those scars on our thumbs? Hmmm. It's like a rocketeer tatoo. I have two on the first joint of my left thumb and one between my thumb and forefinger, also left hand. The knife was in my right hand. After that, I learned to trim off broken fins directing the force of the Xacto blade away from hand rather than toward it.

Some people need more protection than others do.

Maybe you should have a pair of these. :D

http://www.superiorglove.com/Action_Kevlar_Leather_Palm_Gloves_C53.html

No glove no love... :rolleyes: ...Oh, maybe that's something else. ;)

[Jeff Walther]

Maybe you should have a pair of these. :D

Heh. I'd probably forget to put them on, but I certainly could use it. I really could have used those last weekend. I was rebuilding a 30 gallon aquarium which spent too many years in the attic and apparently Perfecto Aquariums Inc. did not polish the corner edges of their glass before assembly--at least they didn't back in '83. Ouch. When it heals I'll probably have a third scar on that same thumb. I tried real hard to flay it and have one of those nice semi-circular dollops cut into the flesh.

The silly thing is that I knew about the hazard and had a piece of 220 emory paper with which I was polishing the edges as I disassembled the glass pieces and for some reason I didn't polish the edges on that last piece of glass before I started cleaning it. I was tired by that time and I guess the brain went on a vacation. It takes lots of short trips...

[sandman]

Heh. I'd probably forget to put them on, but I certainly could use it. I really could have used those last weekend. I was rebuilding a 30 gallon aquarium which spent too many years in the attic and apparently Perfecto Aquariums Inc. did not polish the corner edges of their glass before assembly--at least they didn't back in '83. Ouch. When it heals I'll probably have a third scar on that same thumb. I tried real hard to flay it and have one of those nice semi-circular dollops cut into the flesh.

The silly thing is that I knew about the hazard and had a piece of 220 emory paper with which I was polishing the edges as I disassembled the glass pieces and for some reason I didn't polish the edges on that last piece of glass before I started cleaning it. I was tired by that time and I guess the brain went on a vacation. It takes lots of short trips...

Oh....pucker...pucker!!! :eek:

Could we change the subject please?

If you have to ask what "pucker factor" is...go ask on a different forum. This is family friendly. :o

[sandman]

Back on the subject of tools...

Everybody know I make a LOT of nose coneso...I make a lot of wood chips and sawdust.

I just purchased a 1 HP dust collector to replace my ailing 3/4HP model.

HOLY SNIKES!!!

My old one was 350cf/m.

This one is 1,200cf/m!

Hold on to that balsa nose cone firmly! :eek:

That tool is amasing! I just finished 7 Nike Hercules transitions and my shop is still clean!

I love this thing! :)

If you do a lot of woodworking and make a lot of dust you just gotta have one!

[o1d_dude]

What brand/model dust collector did you get, Sandman?

[sandman]

What brand/model dust collector did you get, Sandman?

I got a Delta, they were on sale at Lowes.

[luke strawwalker]

Someone recommended oilless compressors... From experience I sure wouldn't...

They are STRICTLY for intermittent use, not continuous duty cycles. For small airbrushes they'd probably be fine. If you use a larger paint gun or trim gun for painting, you'll quickly wear out an oilless compressor.

For what an oilless compressor runs you can get a MUCH better oil-type compressor and filter/driers for the air are cheap enough now, as are regulators. I wouldn't recommend doing ANY painting without a good air filter/seperator/dryer and a decent regulator, and if you're using a substantial amount of hose, those little red/orange disposable plastic canister filters from autobody paint stores/shops that screw directly onto the air inlet of your gun are very good as well... It sucks having a paint job ruined by stray moisture condensation in the hose or lines...

Good luck! OL JR :)

[o1d_dude]

I got a Delta, they were on sale at Lowes.

Thanks. There's a Lowe's about 10 minutes away and I'll have to check them out. Last time I was there they seemed pretty low on Delta stuff but ya never know...

[sandman]

Thanks. There's a Lowe's about 10 minutes away and I'll have to check them out. Last time I was there they seemed pretty low on Delta stuff but ya never know...

BTW while I was at Lowe's I saw they had a bandsaw on clearance for $39.

Avoid it like the plague...the blades are unavailable.

A bandsaw without replacement blades is a paperweight! :rolleyes:

[o1d_dude]

Thanks for the tip on the bandsaw. I'd probably have bought it based on price without knowing the blade situation.

My last big score at Lowes was a Black & Decker belt/disk combo sander that was being discontinued and clearance priced at $35! Bought it on sight. Pretty much all those sander combos nowadays come from the same plant in China and only the decals and shroud colors are changed to suit the various brands. Harbor Freight sells them, too, but under their own brand name.

That's why I was asking about the dust control. I'm currently using the Shop-Vac attached by a 2" hose to the base of the sander. Works sort of but it could be better.

[Bob Kaplow]

Avoid it like the plague...the blades are unavailable.

What kind of bandsaw doesn't have blades available? I got a small Delta, and not only does Delta make and sell blades, but a handful of other companies make them too. Is this some never-heard-of-it Chinese unit that uses a non-standard size? Even then, there are places that custom make blades of whatever size you need.

Far and away the most useful blade I got for my band saw was a 32 tpi blade from The Sanding Catalog. Great for cutting even small body tubes, thin balsa, and plywood.

[sandman]

What kind of bandsaw doesn't have blades available? I got a small Delta, and not only does Delta make and sell blades, but a handful of other companies make them too. Is this some never-heard-of-it Chinese unit that uses a non-standard size? Even then, there are places that custom make blades of whatever size you need.

Far and away the most useful blade I got for my band saw was a 32 tpi blade from The Sanding Catalog. Great for cutting even small body tubes, thin balsa, and plywood.

Yes, I think that was the name of the unit, "Never-Heard-Of-It" brand.

I'm sure you could find a blade for it through mail order but I've found that when I need a blade I need it now! Not in two weeks!

The guy from Lowe's and I searched through their inventory of blade and couldn't find anything even close to the size it took. And they have a very large supply of blade sizes in stock but not that one!

They always seem to break right in the middle of a job. :mad:

I like being able to run to my local Mom/Pop hardware store, pick up a blade, charge it to my account and get back to work.

[LeeR]

Yes, I think that was the name of the unit, "Never-Heard-Of-It" brand.

I'm sure you could find a blade for it through mail order but I've found that when I need a blade I need it now! Not in two weeks!

The guy from Lowe's and I searched through their inventory of blade and couldn't find anything even close to the size it took. And they have a very large supply of blade sizes in stock but not that one!

They always seem to break right in the middle of a job. :mad:

I like being able to run to my local Mom/Pop hardware store, pick up a blade, charge it to my account and get back to work.

I mail order blades. Wouldn't buy them from a big box store, you just cannot get the selection, or the quality. But these are primarily for my 14" Powermatic bandsaw, which I use to cut hardwood mostly. I do have a small tabletop Delta bandsaw I kept for cutting small items, and when I go to get blades again, I'll mail order again. I bought it years ago before I got the Powermatic, and even back then it was hard to find blades. The last time I actually bought one in a store was at Rockler in Denver, but again, this is a store most woodworkers buy from on the internet.

[Mark II]

Well, the non-replaceable saw blades would work fine in my non-existent band-saw! In fact, they would be a perfect fit! ;)

Mark \\.

[Greg N]

Well, the non-replaceable saw blades would work fine in my non-existent band-saw! In fact, they would be a perfect fit! ;)

Mark \\.

There is a company that is a seller of Timberwolf bandsaw blades called Suffolk Machine. They can make you any length blade you need.

[FlyBack]

By far the most used tool in my shop... MICROLUX MINI TILT ARBOR TABLE SAW FOR BENCHTOP HOBBY USE (http://www.micromark.com/MICROLUX-MINI-TILT-ARBOR-TABLE-SAW-FOR-BENCHTOP-HOBBY-USE,7500.html). Kinda pricey but worth every cent.

Regards,

FlyBack

[Bill]

A few of mine which have not already been mentioned:

- backing tape from rolls of self-adhesive postage stamps. I wrap it around a body tube as a guide for the knife when cutting to length.

- shape cutter from scrapbooking department and circle templates. For making my own centering rings. It is a bit of pain to find the right template for the inside and outside diameters of various tubes, though.

- embossing tools from scrapbooking department. This is something I am currently experimenting with to make my own corrugated wraps.


Bill

[garmtn]

Tired of paying for overpriced decals and shipping! Try printing your own. Use a color printer and a good quality paper. Cut the insignia out and apply "modge podge hard coat" to the body part receiving insignia. Apply insignia and recoat with modge podge. Wipe off excess with damp cloth. Heres my "Spaceman Spiff with one real sticker, "Nasa" and two printed "Jolly rogers." ;)

[jeffyjeep]

There is NO WAY I can be the only one that uses an orbital palm sander for smoothing balsa sheets and sizing fin stacks. Also, a roll of DR. SHRINK heat shrink tape is great for making nose cones fit tighter.

jeffyjeep

[mycrofte]

I'm afraid I do that by hand. If I use a palm sander it is on something harder than balsa.

[jharding58]

A bench top 10 inch disk sander.

[nukemmcssret]

33 An understanding wife. :D

How about the camera for those build shots you are gonna post later.

And do not for get the kitchen sink :chuckle:

[jeffyjeep]

..................and a tourniquet at the ready....................

[LeeR]

How about the camera for those build shots you are gonna post later.

And do not for get the kitchen sink :chuckle:

Check!

(OK, make that a utility sink in the woodshop / rocket room).

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii220/hobbes_pics/Woodshop/th_shop003.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii220/hobbes_pics/Woodshop/?action=view&current=shop003.jpg)

[nukemmcssret]

Check!

(OK, make that a utility sink in the woodshop / rocket room).

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii220/hobbes_pics/Woodshop/th_shop003.jpg (http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii220/hobbes_pics/Woodshop/?action=view&current=shop003.jpg)


That is so cool. You do have a sink. Bet it comes in handy at times. I want one :( :chuckle: .

[GuyNoir]

Check!

(OK, make that a utility sink in the woodshop / rocket room).

So what's up with having TWO band saws???? ;)

[jharding58]

So what's up with having TWO band saws???? ;)

One for cross cuts, one for rips. Or possibly one for cutting balsa and one for hard balsa. An odd/even use pattern for blade conservation?

[LeeR]

So what's up with having TWO band saws???? ;)

I use the little Delta table top with a fine blade for cutting rocket stuff -- body tubes, fins, etc. It was my first. The Powermatic arrived 2 years ago, and is for bigger woodworking projects. My first big power tool is the 1976 Craftsman radial arm saw. A well made, solid saw, not like the newer ones having marginal quality. A truly great tool that has kind of gone away, with the arrival of compound miter saws. (Got one of those too ...). My shop is in my basement. I keep thinking of going above ground, so I can get a full sized cabinet-style table saw, rather than my compact one. But not ready yet to plunk down enough cash to do my own New Yankee Workshop. :)

I have 3 routers, and 4 Dremel tools, and ... what can I say, I love power tools. :chuckle:

The only major tool I was missing was a lathe. Got that last week. I also cleaned up and reorganized my shop. I ought to post some new pictures.

[jharding58]

You need to have a couple of machinist blocks. Two inch square is good, and three is better. Not only are they essential for 90 degree intersections, they are handy as compression tools when bonding bulkheads on to couplers.

[ghrocketman]

The only thing better than use of power tools is the DRUNKEN use of power tools !!!

[nukemmcssret]

The only thing better than use of power tools is the DRUNKEN use of power tools !!!
Yes power tools and Beer they go great together :chuckle:

[jharding58]

Here is something that I cobbled together out of frustration. When going for a really thick gloss finish there is always the chance of a run. Just one ruinous little drip can scrap a finish. To provide constant movement of the model I built this painting lathe. I rarely if ever paint on it, but it does provide a nice smooth rotation to even out any thick spots on the paint. I used some scrap MDF, a replacement rotisserie motor, and two sliding door rollers to support the rod. Squared sections of 1/2 inch dowel provide the drive connection, and a Semroc dummy motor the "model interface".

Sorry about the clutter but this is not a travel week so I am trying to crank out as much as possible.

[dyaugo]

Thanks, those are the same tools I use for the RC planes, the tube marking tool works great and is easy to use.

Use an aluminum angle for a straighter edge. That ESTES marker is not worth it...or use a straight door jam.

I took a look at one of the lines I marked on a tube and it looked like it curved? Sure enough after drawing several lines and thinking I was seeing things I checked the tube marking tool and it was bent/curved whatever...go to Home Depot and invest in a few angles...you might pay a little more, but you can get a variety of sizes...use two way tape and mount them to a solid piece of wood and use them as guides to cut the length of BT's for through the wall fin slots.

[dyaugo]

What are some of the tools needed to make scratch building easier, I have the Estes tube marking tool but what are some of the other tools and tricks?

Different sized aluminum angles for marking straight lines on body tubes. Home Depot sells them. A good hobby knife, steel ruler, cutting mat. There's a lot tools...sometimes you just buy them as you go and next thing you know you have a pretty extensive collection.

[fulldec]

Balsa dust gives me a cough, now.. I lived in the stuff as a kid. My workshop was my bedroom!

Now, whenever I am generating balsa dust, I sit a box fan at the end of my workbench, set on low, with a cheap 20x20 in. furnace filter on the inlet side of the fan. Its quiet, the fan holds the filter in place and I don't end up breathing the dust.

One tip, always observe the airflow arrow on the filter, if you switch it around, you'll blow much of the collected dust back into the air.

Breathe easy,

Don

[mrhemi1971]

One tool I got by chance is used for painting and fits in a 18mm motor mount, My wife had a floor cleaning thing, either a swiffer or something like it that had a multi part aluminum tube handle and it was worn out. I took the cleaning end off and saw that the handle looked perfect for 18mm sized holes. Sure enough, it works FANTASTIC for holding models to paint whether you paint in a booth or rattle cans outside, it holds them securely!

[jharding58]

Another handy tip - if you look at the fin placement guide set you will notice that there is a BT size number and a small arrow. The engraved lines are at the 90 and 120 positions with one shared groove. If you needed to place eight marks on the tube, you can mark off the first four, turn the tube size indicator until the arrow is pointing at one of the existing drawn marks, them mark off the other four. It sounds silly but I just finished up a rocket with two sets of fins on the tube offset by 45 degrees. Et voila!

[tbzep]

This is a good thread. Should I make it a sticky?
This thread is pushing toward 12,000 views. I think you made a wise choice. :cool:

[jharding58]

I know I harp on about this tool, but if you find the financial wherewithal investment in a disk sander is relatively a no- brainer. In addition to rapidly going through stack sanding issues for fin perimeters you can use this to sand from root to tip to provide thinned sections. I also use this to sand the trailing edge stock I use for the Pershing 1a fins. The transformation below took about 15 seconds.

[3boydad]

33 An understanding wife. :D


why do wives give us so much grief over this hobby?

[jharding58]

My personal use is for drying. You can apply a decent final coat and then the rotation will even out the finish and avoid runs in the paint.

[dk54321]

Here is something that I cobbled together out of frustration. When going for a really thick gloss finish there is always the chance of a run. Just one ruinous little drip can scrap a finish. To provide constant movement of the model I built this painting lathe. I rarely if ever paint on it, but it does provide a nice smooth rotation to even out any thick spots on the paint. I used some scrap MDF, a replacement rotisserie motor, and two sliding door rollers to support the rod. Squared sections of 1/2 inch dowel provide the drive connection, and a Semroc dummy motor the "model interface".

Sorry about the clutter but this is not a travel week so I am trying to crank out as much as possible.

Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question, but to you turn on the motor and rotate the model while spraying, or only while the paint is drying?

[jharding58]

The soon to be patented Multi-Tiered Rocket Rack (MTRR). Buy the 12 foot section of 1/2" PVC and the bulk packs of elbows and tees. The 1/2" dowels fit into the motor casings which also fit into the soon the be patented Rocket-Roller. Paint, roll for half an hour, then up on the rack - all on the same soon to be patented Rocket Rods.

[Brain]

The only thing better than use of power tools is the DRUNKEN use of power tools !!!
'Power Tools'... great Tubes song!

[bernomatic]

The soon to be patented Multi-Tiered Rocket Rack (MTRR). Buy the 12 foot section of 1/2" PVC and the bulk packs of elbows and tees. The 1/2" dowels fit into the motor casings which also fit into the soon the be patented Rocket-Roller. Paint, roll for half an hour, then up on the rack - all on the same soon to be patented Rocket Rods.

Not to be patented... if you use 1/2" CPVC instead of the cheaper PVC, you will not need the dowels. The smaller crosswall section of the CPVC fits nicely into 18mm engine mount. There is a smaller 3/8" tubing I don't know it's composition, that fits into a 13mm engine mount. If you do a little sanding, the 3/8" will fit into the end of the 1/2" CPVC and you have a holder for a rocket of either engine type (patent NOT pending on that either).

I mounted a short piece of 3/4" PVC to the wall with a u bracket. Another short piece of 1/2" CPVC with a 45 angle piece on it goes into the 3/4" piece and viola! Just stick the end of the 1/2" CPVC into the other end of the 45 angle piece and you have a mount for painting rockets. I tried taking pictures, but my sons ran down the camera batts taking pics of the kitties. :mad:

[bernomatic]

and oh, BTW if you cut a slot in the tubing, the engine retainer will snap into it and keep the rocket from rotating as you spin the tube to paint different sides

[jharding58]

Yep, but I use the soon to be patented Rocket Rod on all three stages and they fit the appliances without any modification. So from build to paint to dry and storage without needing to change a thing. Plus, it was all fre.

[UCBadger]

Also, a self-healing cutting mat, and a clear plastic mat. The latter is helpful to protect your work surfaces when you are gluing. (Especially for your self-healing cutting mat - you really, really do not want to get glue on that. Repeatedly replacing cutting mats gets pretty expensive.)
Suggestions on the cutting mat? Is it one you found at a craft shop, like Hobby Lobby, or is there a more specialized one which works well for rocket building? What size do you recommend? What about the clear plastic mat?

[Bob Kaplow]

Get one twice the size you think you need! Up to the total size of your work surface.

I've got an old Hobbico 18x24, and a Fiskars 24x36. Those two live permanently on 2 of my workbenches. Plus a couple smaller ones for portable use.

My daughter got one for her school studio desk that's 24x36 or maybe the next up from that. IIRC we got it at Michaels when they had them 60% off.

They seem to hold up pretty well as long as you don't spill nasty solvents on them. The thicker ones are less likely to crack, and are a softer texture, so I prefer them.

[Randy]

Wow! Could it be the ghost of Christmas past?

How ya been Bob? Can't remember the last time I saw you post. Good to know you're still around.

Randy
www.vernarockets.com

[Bob Kaplow]

Got the email that someone replied to my post, so I went to see what's up. Someone dug up a year plus old thread...

Last night we had our annual "Beach Party" as Tom & Joyce came through town. Plus Bunny, Ric, & Pierre and families.

[tbzep]

Hi Bob

Glad you dropped in. The "Free For All" forum has been getting most of the posting here lately. How about poking around in your basement for inspiration and starting a few historical threads for us? :cool:

[tmacklin]

In addition to providing boatloads of comic relief to the vast hobby rocketry community, I also build fin jigs and other tools for this merry gang. Over time, my manufacturing techniques have evolved, mainly out of necessity and efficiency. That is why I subcontracted the tedious task of routing the end panels to Nat Kinsey of Upscale CNC.

The other tedious and potentially dangerous task has been cutting the slots in the aluminum fin alignment rails by first marking, then drilling pilot holes and finally nipping out the slots with a miter saw. After discussions with others more knowledgeable than myself, I am assured that I can do this operation using a hand held router and carbide bits.

So the next thing was to make a fixture to position an hold the aluminum angles while the routing operation is done. Since each pair of angles has both a right and left hand version, I made the fixture to accommodate that requirement while maintaining the same center to center relationship of the slots. I think the following pics will tell the story.

[ShieldWolf]

I just skimmed through this fantastic thread again, and haven't seen anything about tool storage. I like to use a tackle box that has room for some bulky items, as well as removable plastic boxes with movable dividers. They offer these in both hard and soft sided designs.

Edit: Forgot how to picture. :o

[o1d_dude]

In addition to providing boatloads of comic relief to the vast hobby rocketry community, I also build fin jigs and other tools for this merry gang. Over time, my manufacturing techniques have evolved, mainly out of necessity and efficiency. That is why I subcontracted the tedious task of routing the end panels to Nat Kinsey of Upscale CNC.

The other tedious and potentially dangerous task has been cutting the slots in the aluminum fin alignment rails by first marking, then drilling pilot holes and finally nipping out the slots with a miter saw. After discussions with others more knowledgeable than myself, I am assured that I can do this operation using a hand held router and carbide bits.

So the next thing was to make a fixture to position an hold the aluminum angles while the routing operation is done. Since each pair of angles has both a right and left hand version, I made the fixture to accommodate that requirement while maintaining the same center to center relationship of the slots. I think the following pics will tell the story.
I applaud your use of the truck's tailgate as a workbench.

I have often used the tailgate of my Bronco as a workbench/table at rocket launches and star parties (night time telescope gatherings).

[sandman]

I just skimmed through this fantastic thread again, and haven't seen anything about tool storage. I like to use a tackle box that has room for some bulky items, as well as removable plastic boxes with movable dividers. They offer these in both hard and soft sided designs.

Edit: Forgot how to picture. :o

I have two of these tool boxes.

http://t.harborfreight.com/eight-drawer-wood-tool-chest-94538.html

Before you freak out at the $79.00 price, I purchased mine about 4 years ago when they were $59.00 each.

I only intended to purchase one but then I noticed one in an open box that somebody returned.

1/2 PRICE! $30.00.
The lock was broken. :rolleyes:
That took about 10 seconds to fix with a squirt of WD-40.

Cheap, made in China , but a Gershner International tool box is too and they are $300.00.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/147378/Gerstner-10-Drawer-Tool-Chest-Model-GI-532.aspx?refcode=10INGOPB&gclid=COu71d_l5cUCFU08gQodry0AFg

I really love mine. One for rocketry and one for my small woodworking tools.

[ShieldWolf]

I've been eyeballing one of those to put my leather working tools in.

On the topic of Harbor Freight, this workbench http://www.harborfreight.com/tool-storage/workbench/60-in-4-drawer-hardwood-workbench-69054.html is well worth the $160 sale price for hobby use. I'd want something more substantial for building furniture, but it works great for Model rockets, leather work, and reloading.

[tbzep]

In addition to providing boatloads of comic relief to the vast hobby rocketry community, I also build fin jigs and other tools for this merry gang.
He sells them on eBay for fishermen. :D

[doswonk]

I've been eyeballing one of those to put my leather working tools in.

On the topic of Harbor Freight, this workbench http://www.harborfreight.com/tool-storage/workbench/60-in-4-drawer-hardwood-workbench-69054.html is well worth the $160 sale price for hobby use. I'd want something more substantial for building furniture, but it works great for Model rockets, leather work, and reloading.

Hey, that looks like a nice setup for hobby work. I agree that if you're building furniture it might not be entirely sturdy enough. I like the drawers - you can never have enough storage. Back in my early rocket career, I worked on an old wooden desk of my mom's (but knew the boundaries - i.e., no drilling holes into it or mounting a vise on the edge! :eek: ).

By "reloading" do you mean reloadable rocket motors or firearm ammo?

Getting inspired to finally turn that corner of the basement into a workshop!

~Lawrence

[ghrocketman]

I use the same bench for building rockets, R/C aircraft, AND reloading AMMO.

[sandman]

As for a workbench, I started out with a solid oak desk I got at a sale my local community college was having.

The thing weighs a freaking ton! The top is 34" by 60". A BIG desk.

The bad part was it was painted with a thick coat of battleship gray.

I decided to strip it but when I stripped all the gray paint off the top I found out something disturbing about the previous owner.

He was a heavy smoker! The edges of the top is covered in cigarette burns.

Maybe the guy wasn't a heavy smoker, he just liked to light them and let them burn out on the edge of the desk.

Oh, well, it was only $5.00. :D

[tmacklin]

He sells them on eBay for fishermen. :D

I'm told by Ebay officials that they are used to lure in suckers. :p

[o1d_dude]

Here's something I've been working on over the past several days as the busy life of a retired person permits.

The adjustable rocket cradle is large enough to support my smallest to largest high power birds. Would easily support mid power and some low power birds as well.

The rocket in the second picture is a Polecat Aerospace Goblin 5.5 which puts the capacity into perspective.

The nice thing is that this rig is easily disassembled for storage or stashing in the trunk for transport to and from the range.

Now if only I can interest Tim Van Milligan in the product :)

[tmacklin]

Here's something I've been working on over the past several days as the busy life of a retired person permits.

The adjustable rocket cradle is large enough to support my smallest to largest high power birds. Would easily support mid power and some low power birds as well.

The rocket in the second picture is a Polecat Aerospace Goblin 5.5 which puts the capacity into perspective.

The nice thing is that this rig is easily disassembled for storage or stashing in the trunk for transport to and from the range.

Now if only I can interest Tim Van Milligan in the product :)

That's pretty slick, Kit! Send him an email with some pics. You might be pleasantly surprised.

[tmacklin]

After perusing your website, it occurs to me that you could make a supersized version of this to store your cabors.

[///]

Here's something I've been working on over the past several days as the busy life of a retired person permits.
Nice work!
I use something very similar tho smaller for my LPR builds.
It is built from foamboard and a single length of aluminium tube. The foamboard is a sliding friction fit on the tube.

Edit: crappy photo attached

[o1d_dude]

Nice work!
I use something very similar tho smaller for my LPR builds.
It is built from foamboard and a single length of aluminium tube. The foamboard is a sliding friction fit on the tube.

Edit: crappy photo attached
See?

Great minds think alike!

Well done, sir. Well done.

[ShieldWolf]

It's very "ghetto", but I saved the top rack out of our old dishwasher, and use that for a paint/drying rack. It's large enough to be stable while holding a Leviathan, and can hold 13mm rockets securely.

[tmacklin]

It's very "ghetto", but I saved the top rack out of our old dishwasher, and use that for a paint/drying rack. It's large enough to be stable while holding a Leviathan, and can hold 13mm rockets securely.

Down in Texas, we call that "repurposing". ;)

[ShieldWolf]

tmacklin, Texas born & raised here. Grew up on a working ranch. We "repurposed" just about everything. By the tine we scrapped something, it was used and re-used until it was used up.

I said "ghetto" for the benefit of our northern neighbors on the forum. :)

[tmacklin]

tmacklin, Texas born & raised here. Grew up on a working ranch. We "repurposed" just about everything. By the tine we scrapped something, it was used and re-used until it was used up.

I said "ghetto" for the benefit of our northern neighbors on the forum. :)

Well ShieldWolf I'm not born and raised Texan but I got here as soon as I could! LOL! :D

[o1d_dude]

Out here on the Liberal Left Coast, folks here would call that "up-cycling".

In the Central Valley of Cali, we'd just call it Okie...a John Steinbeck reference.

[Joe Wooten]

tmacklin, Texas born & raised here. Grew up on a working ranch.

What part? I was born and raised in the Garden City area (Glasscock Co).

[ShieldWolf]

What part? I was born and raised in the Garden City area (Glasscock Co).
Central Texas. Robertson County, population <18,000. Due north of Bryan/College Station, home of Texas A&M University.

The Powder Burn in Hearne was in Robertson County. I never made it, due to my work schedule at the time, but I understood that it brought out a decent crowd from the Houston Area.

We should probably get this thread back on track now. :)

One of the things I have found very useful to have is a folding card table. Sometimes you just need a little extra space to lay things out, and don't have room in your work area for a permanent table. I got mine on sale at True Value Hardware. Besides the legs folding in, the table top folds in half to leave ne with a package about 2 'x 4' x 3" thick. I can hide it behind my desk, toss it in the car, etc. The larger 6' long tables are just too awkward for most of my needs.

[ghrocketman]

+1 for the folding card table.
When I have an R/C aircraft on the building bench, I use a card table for building rockets.

[dk54321]

I picked up a cheap knock-off of Black & Decker's Workmate for $5 at a garage sale. I can crank open the gap to match the diameter of the rocket I'm working on. It folds for transport, so I bring it to launches for a rocket prepping table.