The new and crummy Krylon

[kurtschachner]

Well, I finally had to buy some of the new Krylon, and I must say that I hate this stuff. It is quite different than the old stuff (seeing how it isn't a lacquer base anymore) and I really don't like it. The finish is blotchy and uneven and I got two runs in the last coat. I also notice that the can no longer says "No runs, drips or errors" and I believe it. Oddly there is this yellow sheen to the white as well. All in all I am giving up on the new formula and I'll have to find something else.

Too bad as I always liked the results from the old kind.

[Indiana]

I like duplicolor a lot, although it is a tad more expensive.

[MKP]

Thank your federal government. Paint companies were required to lower VOC emissions, so Krylon changed formulas to meet the demands.

[Solomoriah]

I get decent results with the cheap stuff. Wal-Mart ColorPlace and Dollar General Miracal. Not a lot of range in the colors, but I have a lot less trouble with runs than I ever did with Krylon.

[Intruder]

I get decent results with the cheap stuff. Wal-Mart ColorPlace and Dollar General Miracal. Not a lot of range in the colors, but I have a lot less trouble with runs than I ever did with Krylon.
I've fond that ColorPlace's white is not as opaque as Krylon's and their primer tends to give me rolies during sanding. However ColorPlace black is just as good as Krylon's and Miracal silver (or maybe it's aluminum, I don't remember exactly) is amazing.
Well, I finally had to buy some of the new Krylon, and I must say that I hate this stuff. It is quite different than the old stuff (seeing how it isn't a lacquer base anymore) and I really don't like it. The finish is blotchy and uneven and I got two runs in the last coat. I also notice that the can no longer says "No runs, drips or errors" and I believe it. Oddly there is this yellow sheen to the white as well. All in all I am giving up on the new formula and I'll have to find something else. Too bad as I always liked the results from the old kind.
It seems a lot of people don't like the new Krylon. I haven't had a problem with it so far.

[Solomoriah]

"Rolies?" Not sure what that means. Both the ColorPlace and Miracal primers work well for me; both sand off as a fine powder after 24+ hours of drying time.

[CPMcGraw]

"Rolies?" Not sure what that means. Both the ColorPlace and Miracal primers work well for me; both sand off as a fine powder after 24+ hours of drying time.

I think I know what Intruder is describing. It's where the primer "rolls up" under the sandpaper instead of coming off as a dry powder. It's like it turns into a "plastic" from the friction heat of the sanding action, which really means it has not fully cured. It still has a moist solvent content. Trouble is, I've had this happen with some primers many days later.

The best result I've had so far has been with standard Kilz, but not the stuff from the spray can. I prefer the "mix your own thinner" version with clear mineral spirits, and sprayed with a gun. The mix is more evenly suspended, and the layer put down is nowhere near as thick.

[tbzep]

I think I know what Intruder is describing. It's where the primer "rolls up" under the sandpaper instead of coming off as a dry powder. It's like it turns into a "plastic" from the friction heat of the sanding action, which really means it has not fully cured. It still has a moist solvent content. Trouble is, I've had this happen with some primers many days later.

The best result I've had so far has been with standard Kilz, but not the stuff from the spray can. I prefer the "mix your own thinner" version with clear mineral spirits, and sprayed with a gun. The mix is more evenly suspended, and the layer put down is nowhere near as thick.

Yep, that's what he's talking about. I've had it happen a week to over a month after spraying every kind and brand of primer that wasn't good old fashioned lacquer primer. In fact, even after waiting weeks, every single primer I've ever used that wasn't straight lacquer primer either rolled up or gunked up the sandpaper to some extent. Unfortunately, the only lacquer primer left in my area is Duplicolor...and it's twice as expensive as Krylon. :eek: But it will sand really good within 15-30 minutes according to the humidity. :)

BTW, if old Krylon was lacquer based, why wasn't their primer a regular fast drying, good sanding lacquer primer? I've always had to wait a week or longer to be able to sand it too.

[Solomoriah]

Huh. Perhaps it's the atmosphere. I've never encountered "rolies" but I have had the primer gunk up the sandpaper; generally only if I don't give it at least 8 hours in dry weather, or about 24 in more humid weather, to cure.

I have long wondered why this sort of primer cures so much faster than the paint that goes over it.

[Indiana]

I'm far from being a painting expert, so take this with a grain of salt.

I'm sure they use more aggressive solvents (they evaporate faster) in primer. When painting with a gun, if you use solvents that are too fast for the temperature/humidity level, the paint can blush (dry with a dull haze), so I'm sure they use slower solvents in cans to accomate most weather conditions. With primer, it doesn't really matter if dries with a dull finish.

[tbzep]

I'm far from being a painting expert, so take this with a grain of salt.

I'm sure they use more aggressive solvents (they evaporate faster) in primer. When painting with a gun, if you use solvents that are too fast for the temperature/humidity level, the paint can blush (dry with a dull haze), so I'm sure they use slower solvents in cans to accomate most weather conditions. With primer, it doesn't really matter if dries with a dull finish.

That makes sense....but I've always had trouble with Krylon primer drying slow. I can sand old style Krylon gloss white or black just as quickly as I can sand Krylon primer. :rolleyes:

[kurtschachner]

A small update, out of desperation I went to our local hardware store and perused their selection of spray paints. One I had used before (but not on rockets) was Rust-Oleum. Well, I picked up a can of both white and black gloss and wow, what a nice finish that gave. Even better than the old Krylon IMHO.

So I’ve climbed down off the roof and feel a little better now. It dries more slowly than Krylon but I’m happy with the finish.

I’ll have to pick up a couple cans of the cheap K-Mart or Wal-Mart stuff that was mentioned, but for now I like the Rust-Oleum. Not cheap but that black finish was awesome.

[moonzero2]

I just completed an clone Goblin kit from Thrustline, and Decals from Excelsior Rocketry. I used Krylon primer. And I've never had good luck trying to sand Krylon primer. But I did use the new Krylon formula for the Yellow and it seemed to work just fine for me. The black color is the old Krylon formula and it went on the new yellow just fine. Here in Colorado the humidity is 8%. Yea,... that's 08 percent. Recently I picked up some Rust-Oleum automobile primer. It's a sandable primer and says so right on the can. I don't think the Krylon primer is a sandable primer. I have not tried the compatability of the Rust-Oleum automoble primer with the New Krylon formula,... but I will be here shortly.

I did use the Rust-Oleum automobile primer on my Golden Scout and it was a dream to wet sand. Worked great. I used Rust-Oleum Metalic Gold on top and it turned out really good.

[tbzep]

I just completed an clone Goblin kit from Thrustline, and Decals from Excelsior Rocketry. I used Krylon primer. And I've never had good luck trying to sand Krylon primer. But I did use the new Krylon formula for the Yellow and it seemed to work just fine for me. The black color is the old Krylon formula and it went on the new yellow just fine. Here in Colorado the humidity is 8%. Yea,... that's 08 percent. Recently I picked up some Rust-Oleum automobile primer. It's a sandable primer and says so right on the can. I don't think the Krylon primer is a sandable primer. I have not tried the compatability of the Rust-Oleum automoble primer with the New Krylon formula,... but I will be here shortly.

I did use the Rust-Oleum automobile primer on my Golden Scout and it was a dream to wet sand. Worked great. I used Rust-Oleum Metalic Gold on top and it turned out really good.


You're killing me! When I came back from football practice this morning, the humidity was still at 94%!!! http://planetsmilies.net/angry-smiley-7996.gif

[foose4string]

Krylon grey primer is sandable(I can only speak for the old formula) but it doesn't say that in it bold letters on the front of the can. It's in the fine printed application instructions. Krylon only recommends dry sanding the grey stuff, which is what I do, or to use the rust colored primer if you intend to wet sand. I can't stand their white primer, but I never have trouble dry sanding the grey primer if I wait 24-48 hours...generally, the longer the better.

The Rustoleum grey automobile primer seems to take forever to dry completely, and didn't play very well using the old formula Krylon as a top coat. Perhaps the new Krylon is a different story...seems like it should work a little better in that regard.

I like the old Krylon and have been buying the old cans when I see them. Eventually, I'll have to switch I suppose.

[Doug Sams]

Krylon grey primer is sandable (snip)
The Rustoleum grey automobile primer seems to take forever to dry completely, I accidentally grabbed a can of RustOleum's Painter's Touch gray (granite) and used it as primer. While I haven't topcoated it yet (and thus can't comment on its propertiers as an undercoat) it sands about as well as any of the sandable primers I've used. I got a little clogging after an hour, but none after 24 :o You would think that if they can make a paint that dries that fast, a primer wouldn't be a big deal, eh?

Doug

.

[Bob Thomas]

I have been using Rustoleum Grey Auto Primer mostly because it came in a huge "33% More Free" can on sale and I couldn't pass on it. I find it excellent, usually a single coat on well prepared rockets and then a light 400 grit once-over produces a even and super smooth surface. Comes off like talcum requiring a tackcloth wipe before finish painting. I DO NOT USE FOR FILLING SPIRALS AND GRAIN. That is better suited to one of the heavier products like KILZ Primer.

The Rustoleum Auto Primer is more of a post prepped surface / pre-finishing undercoat. It is stable with both Rustoleum, and Krylon's old formula. I just tried the new formula yesterday in a satin black and it went on smooth and has not shown any ill effects so far. I will repost if anything manifests.

[moonzero2]

I have been using Rustoleum Grey Auto Primer mostly because it came in a huge "33% More Free" can on sale and I couldn't pass on it. I find it excellent, usually a single coat on well prepared rockets and then a light 400 grit once-over produces a even and super smooth surface. Comes off like talcum requiring a tackcloth wipe before finish painting. I DO NOT USE FOR FILLING SPIRALS AND GRAIN. That is better suited to one of the heavier products like KILZ Primer.

The Rustoleum Auto Primer is more of a post prepped surface / pre-finishing undercoat. It is stable with both Rustoleum, and Krylon's old formula. I just tried the new formula yesterday in a satin black and it went on smooth and has not shown any ill effects so far. I will repost if anything manifests.
I like the Rustoleum Grey Auto Primer too. Works great wet sanding too. I have not tried it with the Krylon new formula yet,... so that is good to know if it works with it OK. Thanks! :D