SEMROC Mini Omega

[foose4string]

I have a question regarding the Mini Omega. The dummy Cineroc looks great on top of the downsized Omega, but I was wondering if there is enough space to turn it into a modern, working Cineroc. By now, everyone is probably familiar with the ebay "gum" cams. Will one of these fit in the "Cineroc" payload. Cam dimensions are roughly 3.875 L X .75 W inches.

[Chas Russell]

Carl McLawhorn of SEMROC had a mini Omega with a pen camera installed in the payload. As I understood it, he was still working on getting the downward facing mirror set correctly. Since I was involved flying competition flights at NARAN 52, I do not know if he got a successful camera flight of.
Seems he has a full plate right now, so I do not know if he will get a chance to reply.
But, yes, it can be done.

Chas

[Doug Sams]

I have a question regarding the Mini Omega. The dummy Cineroc looks great on top of the downsized Omega, but I was wondering if there is enough space to turn it into a modern, working Cineroc. By now, everyone is probably familiar with the ebay "gum" cams. Will one of these fit in the "Cineroc" payload. Cam dimensions are roughly 3.875 L X .75 W inches.Looking at the Rocksim file from the Semroc page, the payload section is 2.75" long, and that includes the insertions from the nosecone and transition, leaving about 1.6" to play with. So you will either need one of the shorter cameras, or you'll need to hollow out the transition some to accomodate the camera.

Doug

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[sandman]

It will work, it's just getting the mirror thing worked out.

With a two stage you want the camera looking down so you can see the stages seperate...that's cool!

Or you could just have it look out the side, maybe slightly down.

[foose4string]

Looking at the Rocksim file from the Semroc page, the payload section is 2.75" long, and that includes the insertions from the nosecone and transition, leaving about 1.6" to play with. So you will either need one of the shorter cameras, or you'll need to hollow out the transition some to accomodate the camera.

Doug

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I already have 2 of the gum cams laying around. I'd like to use one of those if possible. Thanks for taking the time to check Rocksim. I don't have access to my PC at the moment that has Rocksim installed. You all say it will work, but it sounds like quite a bit of balsa removal is required. 2.75" including the nosecone and transition shoulders doesn't sound like enough room. I really don't want to hollow out much farther past the shoulder length....how much transition length do I have to work with below the shoulder? I don't want to go too far into the nosecone shoulder either since the lens will most likely be near this area. What am I overlooking? I suppose the payload section could be replaced with a longer tube, but that would throw off the proportions and look of the "Cineroc".

[Doug Sams]

....how much transition length do I have to work with below the shoulder? The shoulders are each 0.6" and the visible transition length is 0.556, for a total of ~1.75".

It may be easier to mount the mirror on the gum cam, and then just tape the camera to the side of the payload section :)

It'll be a bit draggy, but a whole lot simpler ;)

Doug

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[foose4string]

The shoulders are each 0.6" and the visible transition length is 0.556, for a total of ~1.75".

It may be easier to mount the mirror on the gum cam, and then just tape the camera to the side of the payload section :)

It'll be a bit draggy, but a whole lot simpler ;)

Doug

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That's cheating, Doug! :D I was hoping for a "cleaner" look. Oh well.

[Doug Sams]

I really don't want to hollow out much farther past the shoulder length....One additional thought I had was to glue up all three pieces, then begin excavating a "dugout" for the gum cam. Remove a 0.75" strip the length of the tube, then start removing balsa fore and aft until the camera is sunken in enough to get it out of the airstream. A wrap of tape on each end - colored to match, of course :) - should suffice to retain it. You'll still need to mount the mirror on the cam.

The benefit of this method is two fold. Everything is already aligned, so there's no worry that the pieces won't fit back together had you hacked on them before connecting them together. And it should be stronger, too. The loss of strength caused by the slot in the tube is offset by the nosecone and transition being glued to it thereby keeping its shape.

I have one en route, so I may be applying this myself :)

Doug

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[jetlag]

Once it lifts off the pad, no one will see the cam taped to the side. Leo has done this many times with fantastic results. I know its not very pretty, but I can't see it from here! :D
Allen

[foose4string]

One additional thought I had was to glue up all three pieces, then begin excavating a "dugout" for the gum cam. Remove a 0.75" strip the length of the tube, then start removing balsa fore and aft until the camera is sunken in enough to get it out of the airstream. A wrap of tape on each end - colored to match, of course :) - should suffice to retain it. You'll still need to mount the mirror on the cam.

The benefit of this method is two fold. Everything is already aligned, so there's no worry that the pieces won't fit back together had you hacked on them before connecting them together. And it should be stronger, too. The loss of strength caused by the slot in the tube is offset by the nosecone and transition being glued to it thereby keeping its shape.

I have one en route, so I may be applying this myself :)

Doug

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That actually sounds like a better plan to me. I was hoping I could work it so that the cam was hidden inside the tube and pop off the nose cone as a access point to slide the cam in and out. The size if this rocket just doesn't make that a very viable plan. However, with your plan, getting the lens closer to one side of the rocket makes sense. I may not need any mirrors at all. My cams have the ribbon attached to the lens. I'll be able to reposition the lens, but would still need to create a some type of lens hood to mount and protect it.

I haven't ordered a mini Omega yet and wanted to see how well this would work before I did. I may order one regardless.

[JRThro]

I haven't ordered a mini Omega yet and wanted to see how well this would work before I did. I may order one regardless.
It's a nice kit, and you ought to order one regardless.

[foose4string]

It's a nice kit, and you ought to order one regardless.

It's SEMROC....of course it is! ;) My only hesitation is the fact my basement looks like a hobby store...only, I'm better stocked! :D

[Chas Russell]

"It's a nice kit, and you ought to order one regardless."

I ordered one and got a numbered kit. Ordered a second one to build. Will at least make the payload section look like a Cineroc. Also ordered parts to clone a Cineroc for my existing Omega clone. I do have a worn Cineroc to use as a model.

Chas
Now more of a collector than a modeler....

[JRThro]

I ordered one and got a numbered kit.
Yep, me too, Chas. #21 or #25, I don't recall which.

[foose4string]

Order placed. :)

[barone]

I feel so good about the news concerning Semroc and Estes, I think I'll spend some more money and order one. Sheryl had a week off at NARAM..... :D

[foose4string]

My Mini Omega arrived today(along with Cherokee C)! Parts are first rate as usual, but what I am really jazzed about is the extra parts that have been introduced to enhance the structural integrity of the rocket and aid in the overall build experience. Beginners and old timers alike will enjoy these new "RTB" (ready to build) kits.

I opened the Mini Omega to inspect the parts and instructions. After inspecting the payload tube, nosecone, and transition, it became clear that I measured the gum cam incorrectly. The cam is 2.875 inches, not 3.875 as stated in my earlier post. The cam is only a hair longer than the payload tube. I'll just need to remove a small section of balsa on the both the nosecone and transition shoulders to accommodate the cam payload. I might remove a section of tube as well, like Doug suggested, but not sure yet. It would be nice to conceal the camera somehow and not have to resort to tape to hold the cam in place.