Looking for tips: unwarping a glider body
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Moisture and a press/books. If it turns in flight that is a good thing and requires less wing clay.
Just Jerry |
Another option is a heat gun. It works well, with moisture, to get parts straight. If clamping is difficult, you may even be able to hold it for a few minutes in the correct position long enough for cooling to cause it to set in its new position.
If you don’t have a heat gun, you can get them for as little as $10 at Harbor Freight, using a 20% off coupon. |
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I'm concerned that it might "spiral" or "corkscrew", during boost. Dave F. |
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This. I'll add patience to that. Maybe if you used something to anchor the glider to your work table in the position shown in the photo, like a book or somekind of weight. Use a rubber band to deflect the boom aft of the wing's trailing edge so that it's straight. You'll have to rig something up to do this. Moisten the boom in the area just aft of the trailing edge of the wing. Don't get the wing wet. Allow to dry overnight, and check for straightness the next day. Repeat if necessary. |
If you moisten wood with ammonia water (Ajax, BoPeep, etc) the wood flexes much easier than with plain water.
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The use of Ammonia & Water would work on an all wood fuselage, but he used a foam "core" for the fuselage, with Basswood sides bonded to the foam. On an all-wood fuselage, Steam could also be used, but I am concerned about how the foam might react to the heat. I'm wondering if the warping was either caused by a reaction between the foam and the adhesive used or if the fuselage was un-clamped too soon, before it had fully dried / cured . Dave F. |
I don't think ammonia would attack any foam.
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I wasn't thinking about the Ammonia attacking the foam. I was thinking that since the wood was bonded to the foam, the Ammonia would only penetrate the wood and, as a result, not allow the wood to remain straightened if the foam is causing the warping. Dave F. |
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