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  #31  
Old 07-12-2020, 06:12 PM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Default Now Time For the Make It or Break It Part

This step is incredibly difficult. It is the hardest step in the construction of this rocket.

Why is joining the next cone to the ones already glued the hardest step?

Because you can't get your hand inside to pinch the glue tabs. Fingers are not long enough.

NOTE:
Important to use a 1/2" or bigger diameter of wood dowel. 5/8" is better, 3/4" works awesome. Insert the wood dowel inside the bottom cone, make sure it pokes at least 1/2" past the glue tabs, 3/4" will work, but not too much longer than that.

Now mark all the way around the wood dowel where the bottom edge of the cone ends. This step helps when using the wood dowel to pinch the tabs when gluing.

Too far and you will crush the cones as you glue, the mark helps you know where the end of the dowel is, making it easier to pinch the glue connections.

Ok, time to jump in with both feet.

1st step is to glue the seam, aligning it with the previous glue seams, keeping the cone connections straight. Once the glue is applied to the two tabs at the seam, time to play twister with the dowel.

The dowel I use is 3-feet long, a 4-footer will work but is awkward:

I place the tail end of the dowel under my left thigh, and over the right thigh. Now I can hold the dowel tight without it moving by applying downward pressure with my left leg. Might be possible to clamp dowel to a table top, but that will cause issues when trying to pinch the glue joint.

The mark on the dowel is on the top end of the dowel. Now slide the bottom cone onto the dowel to your mark. The two glue tabs with glue on them are flat against the dowel, now using your hands/fingers align the glue seam and pinch the two cones together. Use the dowel for a bucking bar, similar to using your fingers in the last step.

Once the seam connection is tacked, make sure it is tacked GOOD.

Rotate the cones to the opposite side and once again apply glue to the two tabs under the tick marks. Now you find out why we marked the dowel. You should be able to apply a pressure pinch to this connection just like the first one.

Once this connection tacks, do the rest of the tick marks before gluing all of the other tabs.

This step is hard work, but when done should be just as strong as the first set of cone connections.

You will find that the end of the dowel is the secret for this step, to far up inside the top cones, you have a difficult time of pinching, to low no way to pinch because dowel isn't there to help.

Hoping you make it through this step ok. Might be possible to speed things up using super glue, but dowel will stick if too much is used. A wet rag helps keep the dowel glue free and working correctly, be careful to NOT get the cardstock wet. This will cause major issues with this connection!
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  #32  
Old 07-12-2020, 06:22 PM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Default Whew, Time to Glue Nose Cone Collar to the Nosecone Assembly

This step is easy compared to the other cone connections.

Same procedure as the cones, except super easy to reach inside to pinch. Once glue seam is straight aligned with the Nosecone line, you can do the tick marks like before. Once all tabs have been glued, you will need to glue around the top inside of the collar to add the plug. The plug stops the parachute ejection charge from going inside the nosecone assembly.

photo shows correct location of plug inside Nosecone assembly. Notice I used a rubber abnd outside to create pressure so that the plug stays put. Thinking it would be great to use two rubber bands is not a good idea.

Notice how the collar/nosecone connection the final photos in a future post was damaged? Two rubber bands did not work so well, one would have been perfect.

1st photo has single rubber band doubled up, second photo has two rubber bands doubled up. Bad idea! Crushed the connection...
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  #33  
Old 07-12-2020, 06:28 PM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Default Lets Look Inside the Fuselage Shell

Photo shows inside of fuselage shell, parachute cavity. Notice the glue tabs have been cut with a straight line instead of angled like on the cones?

You will need to glue them together with a small drop of glue and then bending inward at about a 45degree angle. Light washed out the photo showing the glue operation, but I think you can see the process. Start at the glue seam and rotate and bend/glue each tab on top of the previous tab. Only rotate rocket in one direction. Once the are glued except for the last one, it will be glued to the top of both tabs to the right/left.

Rocket is now done except for installing the engine mount and parachutes shock cord and launch lugs.
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  #34  
Old 07-12-2020, 06:33 PM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Default Completed Honest John Photos

This rocket is 39" tall.

Photos had to be rotated to get full rocket view.

Here they are:

Thank you for your interest in this build process, hopefully it will help with cardstock rocket construction when using flat sheets of cardstock for your projects/designs!

Have some graphic changes to help the rocket look a little better, a couple of errors to fix, then I will post an updated rocket once these are done.

Best regards,
Mike Bauer
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  #35  
Old 07-12-2020, 06:37 PM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Default Thank You!

Quote:
Originally Posted by snaquin
These fins look great. Looks like it will be a very strong attachment to the airframe as well.


Yes, they appear to be quite strong! Need to do a test flight to be sure though!

Shell doesn't oil can when applying pressure. Will wait until tomorrow once the glue dries to get serious with the pressure though.

Mike
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  #36  
Old 07-12-2020, 09:03 PM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Default Updated PDF

Hi,

Just finished updating the PDF file you can save to your computer.

The PDF file has fixed some graphic errors, color change to darker blue and red, added some gold and a few other issues.

This should be complete and OKay to print and build.

All dash lines are fold lines, the dotted lines are cut lines.

Any issues building please contact me and I can change issue to work.

Be sure to print at 100% scale/ DO NOT Print "Fit to Page" . Use INDEX 110LB cardstock only, all parts will fit, if you use something else good chance you'll run into issues!

Hope you like and enjoy it.

4th of July Color scheme.

Ok to post photos if you build and launch...

Best regards,
Mike Bauer
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  #37  
Old 07-13-2020, 08:02 AM
Ltvscout Ltvscout is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbauer
Just finished updating the PDF file you can save to your computer.

Thanks for the PDF and the great build article, Mike!
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  #38  
Old 07-13-2020, 08:34 AM
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Default

Very nice!

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  #39  
Old 07-14-2020, 01:16 AM
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mbauer mbauer is offline
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Default

Hi Scott/Bob,

You're welcome.

Been planning a build thread for quite some time.

Thank you for the comments!

Best regards,
Mike Bauer
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  #40  
Old 08-29-2020, 01:26 PM
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Ez2cDave Ez2cDave is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbauer
Can anyone please tell me the outside diameter in inches of the C size engine mount, and the D size? Need to adjust the internal tube so that either can be fitted.

Mike


The "C" sized mount tube is BT-20 . . . It is .736", outside diameter.

The "D" sized mount tube is BT-50 . . . It is .976", outside diameter.

Dave F.
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