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#1
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M2F2 Space Camel boost glider
Picked this up on eBay a while back. Never heard of this company or this kit before, so it intrigued me. This is the 18mm version, apparently they also had a 24mm version as well.
Foam core poster board construction. Instructions were vague in some spots, and some small items were not supplied. But I muddled through. Just need to trim for flight and she goes up at the next launch. Cheers. |
#2
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It used to be advertised in Sport Rocketry back in the 90's and maybe early 2000's, IIRC. Has a glide profile somewhere between the space shuttle and a brick. Foamboard is heavy. If it was Depron, it might work a little better.
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I love sanding. |
#3
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Foamboard LPR Gliders
Yea, Ive been making gliders with foamboard type products for around 40 years myself. And, once I saw the first NAR mag ad for the M2F2, I *knew* that was going to be a clunker on a c motor - especially with standard foamboard!
Nowadays, you'll find GOBS of lighter foamy fare locally. Shoot, even the office places are selling thinner/lighter stuff than the 'old stuff'. Now, here's what you oughta do here - make a copy of this using Adams Readiboard, obtained from Dollar Tree. You get the straightest, back of the carton sheet, and THIS is half the weight of the 'old stuff'. As far as Depron goes, that's discontinued, or rather, no longer imported. If you can get your grubby mitts on some 1/8" of THIS, then you'd REALLY have a good sport glider. I myself have a cross between this and the Cosmos Mariner, made with Depron on a cardstock BT55 frame, that boosts and glides pretty darned well for a C motor. Biggest issue with ANYTHING made of ANY foamboard product is warpage. *Every* single ply constructed glider WILL warp, at least some, over time. Wouldnt be suprised if your old Space Camel main sheet is affected thus. |
#4
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Yeah, the sheet was cupped. When I glued the overlays on I pressed it under some heavy weight to dry. The warpage cancelled each other out. For the fuselage boom I clamped it to an angle tool then glued it to the body. Filleted and let it dry before unclamping. Everything looks straight now. Hopefully with the elevators at full up and glider properly trimmed I'll get a decent glide from it. We shall see. Thanks for the input. |
#5
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If you consider a glide slightly above a MANHOLE COVER, you could call it "decent".
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!! Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't ! Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY. ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, TURMOIL, FIASCOS, and HAVOC ! |
#6
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As as an old BAR who's become fascinated with gliders, I was hoping you'd share some of foam glider plans if you had them, and your build and design techniques/tips. I'd enjoy resurrecting some of your unique "AstronMiike" designs and I'm sure others would be too. Maybe in a separate thread?
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“I would like to die on Mars. Just not on impact”. — Elon Musk “Minds are like parachutes--they only function when open”. —Thomas Dewar |
#7
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Make sure it's a bit nose heavy with the spent engine in place. If it glides perfectly straight, use a piece of tape folded over itself sticking up from one of the elevons to get a slow turn. My upscale Orbital Transport glider sailed a half mile straight as an arrow. Looong walk.
I've not seen your model before. Allen |
#8
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If you want to do RC these that I make have a more lifting body appearance and have a pretty good glide for a foamie.
https://dynasoarrocketry.com/?page_id=3540 Can be had in one of three body styles. They are 9mm depron, around 23" wingspan, 32" length. For 24mm E-6 motors. |
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