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  #1  
Old 09-14-2009, 09:50 PM
jrmitch120 jrmitch120 is offline
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Post Inflight Mach 10

I have two questions about an Inflight Mach 10 that I'm putting together.

1) Can I finish the wings with thinned Elmer's Wood Filler? I usually do this with terrific results on my normal rockets, but I'm concerned that it may affect the glide ability of this rocket.

2) This being my first glider, I'm not really sure what to expect for the first launch. How big a field will I need if I send it up with a B6-2? Do they circle to the ground or is it more of a straight path type of glide?

I envision picking it up 6 counties away.

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 09-14-2009, 09:59 PM
stefanj stefanj is offline
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Do not fill the wings. Keep it as light as possible. Maybe a very thin coat of sanding sealer (not fillercoat), and then after thorough sanding a coat of color paint. You can sand that too!
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  #3  
Old 09-14-2009, 10:02 PM
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tbzep tbzep is offline
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Build one to look pretty and build a second one to fly. I'm sure Ray would like that advise.
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  #4  
Old 09-14-2009, 10:52 PM
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rokitflite rokitflite is offline
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All of the ones I have built have had finished balsa (2-3 coats of sanding sealer) and full paint jobs... Just don't go crazy with too many layers of paint.
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  #5  
Old 09-14-2009, 10:53 PM
InFlight InFlight is offline
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For number one, I recommend stefanj's suggestion. Keep it light, extra weight will make it come in to fast.

For number two, I have flown mine on a 500' x 500' field with a B6-2 and had it land about 100' away from me. Depends on wind conditions, etc... Setting the rudder 1 - 2 deg left or right will cause the model to turn. You can heat the glue around the rudder with a hair dryer and hold it in position until the glue resets.

The clay in the belly pod is the key. Don't get crazy, it wont take much as this model will respond to the adjustments. I had one looping a few weeks back! (wife yelled at me). It was accident, really, it was. My wife makes me cut my horns down like in the Hellboy movie.

I do not recommend using an A8-3 as it will try to attack you! trust me on this one.
C6-3's are for the brave and large fields.

You could also go with tbzep's suggestions as well.

These birds rock if you get the setup right. I still fly my original clone, there is a picture of it in the instructions.

.

Last edited by InFlight : 09-14-2009 at 10:56 PM. Reason: typo...
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  #6  
Old 09-14-2009, 11:21 PM
jrmitch120 jrmitch120 is offline
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Thanks for the suggestions guys! I'll post pics when I get it all setup. I can't wait to get this one up and running.
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  #7  
Old 09-15-2009, 09:43 AM
Bravo52 Bravo52 is offline
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A couple of things I learned from Scott and Kevin:

The nose cone has to have a good amount of weight to get the glider to boost straight. Once you eject the NC, the weight is no longer an issue.

The boost needs to only be a few degrees off vertical. Maybe 10 deg max.

I used paper on my wings and it added almost no weight to the model. You'll want the added strength as you trim the model because it will smack the ground frequently....
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  #8  
Old 09-15-2009, 11:13 AM
foose4string foose4string is offline
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I filled mine with FNF and sanded it down really well. One coat of primer, sanded well. Light coat of paint... just enough to cover up the primer. Still a small amount of grain showing but not too bad. Looks much better than if I hadn't done anything. I was tempted with the sticker paper, and Jim's flew great with it. And, I'm confident Bravo52 will get his dialed in too. It's just a matter of getting the thing balanced. Judging by the test glides on mine, I don't think it's is going to need any weight in the front for the glider phase. Mine has the "bomb" pod attached(with no weight inside), theirs do not. I might actually need a smidge in the rear, in which case, papering the balsa might have been beneficial.
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  #9  
Old 09-15-2009, 12:12 PM
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mycrofte mycrofte is offline
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Yeah, gliders doing a whirling loop of death is not fun! I have two of mine re-balanced (and the dirt cleaned off), waiting for the launch field to be harvested...
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  #10  
Old 09-15-2009, 04:29 PM
jrmitch120 jrmitch120 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bravo52
A couple of things I learned from Scott and Kevin:

The nose cone has to have a good amount of weight to get the glider to boost straight. Once you eject the NC, the weight is no longer an issue.

The boost needs to only be a few degrees off vertical. Maybe 10 deg max.

I used paper on my wings and it added almost no weight to the model. You'll want the added strength as you trim the model because it will smack the ground frequently....


When you say "paper", what specifically did you use and how did you adhere it to the balsa?
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