#11
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The Estes 3171 Clear Payload Tubing set contains 3 each of the following:
PST-20J (2.75" long) PST-50S (4" long) PST-60R (5" long) There are many old kits that used wither the PST-50S or the PST-60R, but only two that used the PST-20J (Apogee/Apogee II (K-5/1205) available from 1963-1981 and the Mini-Brute E2X X-Ray (0834) available from 1997-2004). Actually, the Estes tubes are a bit better than the Semroc tubes. I will post a picture of the difference between the two later.
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'Til next time, Mike Toelle NAR 31692 L1 SAM 0373 |
#12
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Has anyone come up with a "home" method of making embossed wraps and shrouds?
We can turn balsa cones, laser cut elaborate wood and plastic bits, and 3D print exotic shapes, but can't do affordable one-off embossing. Bummer!
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NAR #27085 - Oregon Rocketry - SAM |
#13
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Semroc still shows they have "Parts Sub-Assembly 67" available for the Shrike. Does anyone know if this includes the embossed wraps?
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#14
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The wraps were separate. I bought a set from them a while back when I found out they were shutting down operations and they were out of the Shrike. This what I purchased for the build.
2 AR-2050 Adapter Ring BT-20 to BT-50 (Pkg of 6) - $1.80 $3.60 1 BNC-50Y Balsa Nose Cone BT-50 4.4" Ogive - $3.85 $3.85 2 BT-20J Body Tube BT-20 2.75" Long - $0.60 $1.20 1 BT-50 Body Tube BT-50 18.0" Long - $1.95 $1.95 1 BT-50AH Body Tube BT-50 1.88" Long - $1.30 $1.30 1 CR-KV-37 Shrike Ring - $0.35 $0.35 1 EW-KV-37 Embossed Wraps - Shrike (Set of 3) - $2.50 $2.50 1 FV-37 Shrike Laser-Cut Fins (Set of 2) - $3.85 $3.85 1 PSA-67 Parts Sub-Assembly 67 Shrike - $5.10 $5.10 |
#15
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The still have the CR-KV-37, but I think I'll cut my own rather than make a $20 minimum order for a 35-cent part (the same with the sponge blocks, which I didn't notice they still had until now).
Brent, is the pack of 3 EW-KV-37 a set of the three wraps used on one Shrike, or three complete sets (i.e. enough for three Shrikes)? If the latter is the case, I would be willing to buy a set off of you if you're willing to sell. PM me if you're interested. Also, does anyone know where to get an equivalent to the NB-50 24mm x 1" nose block used on the bottom of the payload section? I could just use a normal coupler, but my style of rocketry is very OCD-driven .
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William Carpenter NAR #88972/TRA #14554 Certified Level Three Member: Washington Aerospace Club NAR Section #578 My Site: http://wscrocketry.com Avatar: Madcow Rocketry 4" Little John on a CTI H200BS (cropped and rotated for dramatic effect) |
#16
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Quote:
http://www.jonrocket.com/index.php?...products_id=344?
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Rich Holmes Camillus, NY Secretary / newsletter editor Syracuse Rocket Club http://richsrockets.wordpress.com |
#17
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Quote:
The wraps are for one Shrike. |
#18
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Thanks, Rich. Picked up a nose block (also ordered a Shrike ring and a set of foam discs from Semroc after I found that the Centaur was still in stock).
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William Carpenter NAR #88972/TRA #14554 Certified Level Three Member: Washington Aerospace Club NAR Section #578 My Site: http://wscrocketry.com Avatar: Madcow Rocketry 4" Little John on a CTI H200BS (cropped and rotated for dramatic effect) |
#19
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Here's a vintage Estes Shrike on ebay right now. Starting bid is $45. Looks to be a complete kit in decent shape.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-EST...=item43c91dc82f Earl
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Earl L. Cagle, Jr. NAR# 29523 TRA# 962 SAM# 73 Owner/Producer Point 39 Productions Rocket-Brained Since 1970 Last edited by Earl : 05-01-2014 at 07:21 AM. Reason: Fixed a symbol. |
#20
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Quote:
Hrm... performed a bit of "google-fu" to see if I can find some ideas (and briefly roamed into the crafty realms where womenfolk can be found and where menfolk tend to avoid). Probably not a very quick method, and probably a bit labor-intensive, but perhaps we could do something along the lines of: * Create a "tool" -- basically a thin sheet metal plate w/ cutouts that correspond to raised areas on the final part. * Place cardstock material over this "tool" and go over the paper with an embossing tool (basically a round-ended stylus) repeatedly to form the pattern -- basically using the tool to deform the paper and "pushing" it into the openings of the "tool". * Alternatively we could probably lightly dampen the light cardstock (to make it more malleable), then back it with some sheet rubber or foam rubber, then apply a *lot* of pressure. I'm wondering if variation of using a steam iron and a towel (instead of rubber sheet) might work as well... Please note: I've not tried any of this to see if such a technique would be feasible or if it would yield acceptable results or not. |
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