Just wanted to post some thoughts on papering fins. I don't paper fins on all builds, but when I do...

I like Luke Strawwalker's technique for application. It's simple, easy, and uses plain old white glue... even good old edible and washable school glue works well! See posts 8 and 9 in the links below.
Post # 8
Post # 9

I've always had trouble with regular paper when priming and finishing. Mark II suggested freezer paper in post #7 in the link below. It totally eliminated problems I've had with paper soaking up primer volatiles and the associated bubbling, fuzzing, etc.
Post # 7

When using freezer paper, I had some issues with the primer and paint pulling off after masking and painting. This was due to that same slick outer surface that solved my priming issues. I use good quality trim tape, 3M 471. It's equivalent to the famous Tamiya masking tape, IMHO. I found that I could lightly scuff the freezer paper with sandpaper and get a much better hold for the primer without losing its barrier properties. I'm still careful to pull tape off at a sharp angle to help prevent paint lift.

I think the combination of JR's method and Mark's material choice warrants a sticky.

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I love sanding.

BTW, I had an incorrect link and fixed it. I also changed "butcher paper" to "freezer paper" to be more accurate.

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I love sanding.

Thanks for the vote of confidence... I appreciate it!

Glad you posted this so I can easily reference the posts and pics when the topic pops up again... LOL

Interesting problems you've had with the absorption of paint and stuff-- I've never had that problem... wonder what's causing it...

I've heard of Mark's highly recommended butcher paper but I haven't gotten around to trying it myself yet... I want to just haven't scared up a roll of the stuff yet... and so far I've had 100% success with regular printer paper so no need...

As an aside-- when I was a kid, (18-ish) I read about using tissue paper to stiffen fins in G.Harry's Handbook of Model Rocketry and decided to try it... put several layers of yellow glue and Kleenex on the fins of my 2 stage Estes Vigilante-- what a mess! It wrinkled terribly when drying and I had to sand down the 'waves' of hardened tissue and glue, and I didn't get it completely sanded off... "good enough" was okay for me back then. I really need to do a restoration job on that Vigilante-- it's on the 'shelf of honor' above the TV in the bedroom...

Later! OL JR

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The X-87B Cruise Basselope-- THE Ultimate Weapon in the arsenal of Homeland Security and only $52 million per round!

I don't know. Maybe it's the volatility of the lacquer primer I use. It happened with label paper too. It can't be the heat and humidity. If there's one place that's as bad as TN, it's TX.

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I love sanding.

While this is "The Bazillionth Thread", I'm waiting for the musical...
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The tissue that G. Harry Stine was referring to was Japanese tissue. Usually it was bonded to balsa with either butyrate dope or nitrate dope. Japanese tissue is considerably stronger than Kleenex. There is a good article in the Model Rocketry Magazine archive over on the ninfinger site on how to tissue boost gliders. The same techniques should work pretty well on fins.

Quest actually uses Japanese tissue for their recovery wadding. It is a bit stronger than the toilet tissue that Estes uses for their wadding.

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'Til next time,

Mike Toelle

NAR 31692 L1

SAM 0373

Which order of magnitude precedes bazillionth? Which one follows it?

Thanks for the mention and endorsement. I have to admit that masking painted freezer paper is something that I have not tried, so I was unaware of the problem until I read your post above. I credit you with solving the paint lifting problem when removing masking tape. (Whew!)

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SAM # 0011

I've had reasonably good results using white glue/tracing paper combo .
rex

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That could be... I use lacquers only EXTREMELY rarely...

I brushed the nozzle of my Dr. Zooch Lifting Body Shuttle kit's core tank with some "House of Kolor" gunmetal gray metallic paint I picked up cheap when Walmart was clearing out their model and paint sections a few years back-- it krinkled up within about 3 minutes and I wiped the whole mess off, including the yellow tank paint (spray foam yellow Krylon) and the underlying gray primer... took it all down to bare paper and thread 'hatbands' on the motor, and made the nozzle paper translucent, but other than that, no damage... let that dry well and applied a second coat and it worked great... no problems at all...

See what happens when you don't check paint compatibility??

No problems with the glue or paper cone though...

Later! OL JR

__________________
The X-87B Cruise Basselope-- THE Ultimate Weapon in the arsenal of Homeland Security and only $52 million per round!

Thanks... I know that now... but when I was 18, that's a different story...

Lots of things I didn't know then... LOL

Later! OL JR

__________________
The X-87B Cruise Basselope-- THE Ultimate Weapon in the arsenal of Homeland Security and only $52 million per round!