#1
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2nd bad can of Rustoleum 2X
I’m having a very difficult time this spring with spray painting. First, I can’t find the correct color Army Green for my Honest John and V2. Now I’m attempting to paint the Little Joe II and the white Rustoleum 2X paint is coming out of the nozzle like dust! Can was shaken, warmed in hot water. Same thing happened with the Rustoleum camo green paint that wasn’t the right color anyway. It’s 65 degrees and no humidity. I’m at my wits end on finishing these rockets. Anyone have any advice?
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#2
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ALL cans of Rust-Oleum 2x are BAD.
Truly CRAPPY paint. Throw it in the dumpster where it belongs and use the original formula.
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!! Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't ! Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY. ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, TURMOIL, FIASCOS, and HAVOC ! |
#3
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Comrades:
If everybody would take a seat . . . . I TOTALLY agree with GH. Put that stuff in the trash. It's heavy, it smells funny, it clogs even worse that regular Rustoleum. It sometimes takes longer than the recommended 48 hours to cure to recoat. Stick with regular Rustoleum. Or Duplicolor auto paints. Or get an airbrush and use acrylics, but for gosh sakes don't use Rustoleum 2X.
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NAR 79743 NARTrek Silver I miss being SAM 062 Awaiting First Launch: Too numerous to count Finishing: Zooch Saturn V; Alway/Nau BioArcas; Estes Expedition; TLP Standard Repair/Rescue: Cherokee-D (2); Centuri Nike-Smoke; MX-774 On the Bench: 2650; Dream Stage: 1/39.37 R-7 |
#4
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Lesson learned, I’m staying away for good. Cans are in the trash so I don’t grab them again to make the same mistake.
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#5
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Good move.
You won't regret it. I use an airbrush to shoot dope/Lacquer most often. When I use rattle cans, I use Testors most often, then Tamiya, then Rust-Oleum original. The Krylon found in hardware/home stores now is really lousy too.
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!! Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't ! Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY. ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, TURMOIL, FIASCOS, and HAVOC ! |
#6
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The Rusto 2X gloss white seems to be the worst one of the bunch!
I've been using the Rusto High Performance Enamel gloss white with better results. It's in the silver cans. Here's some posts about good and bad paint - http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot...rch?q=rustoleum
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Hans "Chris" Michielssen Old/New NAR # 19086 SR www.oddlrockets.com www.modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com http://www.nar.org/educational-reso...ing-techniques/ Your results may vary "Nose cones roll, be careful with that." Every spaceman needs a ray gun. Look out - I'm the Meister Shyster! |
#7
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Testors Olive Drab is a better color match for your V2 and Hojo.
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I like the unusual, the off beat, the avant-garde. No 3/4 FNC for me! |
#8
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Personally, for a HoJo I prefer Rusto Army Green enamel (original formula) because it's gloss and takes the decals without them "silvering".
I finished this 1:14 scale (with built-up fins) a few days ago. (1) coat of gray primer, (2) coats of white primer, (2) coats of Rusto Army Green gloss enamel, Sandman's decals, solvaset, then (2) coats of Testor's Dullcote lacquer. It's been sprayed more than a yodeler at a skunk farm. (I just made that one up.)
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#9
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It's all good, whatever works, JJ.
Here's a nose decal on my Estes Hojo on Testors olive drab, no silvering. Don't remember if I used Micro Set or not. Overcoated with dull kote to take the decal gloss away.
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I like the unusual, the off beat, the avant-garde. No 3/4 FNC for me! |
#10
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That does look good. I don’t have good luck laying decals over flat.
__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
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